Agra: Taj Mahal and beyond, how to explore the pride of Mughals

posted in: India, North India | 0

If I have ever seen a monument more beautiful than my expectations or my imagination, it has to be the Taj Mahal. It’s as much a poetry on stone, as a perfection of architecture and pinnacle of human endeavour. If you have the gift of vocabulary, you will put together some adjectives and superlatives. But honestly, no adjective can really do justice to describe this absolute beauty in white marble. The symbol of India as a tourism destination globally, Taj Mahal has attracted millions over the years. However, Agra has much more than the white beauty, if you have the time. So, here’s how to explore Agra, the pride of Mughals- Taj Mahal and beyond, in their erstwhile capital.

In common parlance, white is the symbol of purity, and the symbol of peace. But Shah Jahan made white the symbol of love and beauty too. An architectural tradition that symbolizes the amalgamation of Persian, Indian and Muslim styles. It inspired generations of architecture to come, but none could quite stand up to it!

{For more such architectural gems, check out: Havelis of Shekhawati ||| Monuments of Mumbai}

agra-taj-mahal-garden-char-bagh
Taj Mahal viewed from a corner of Char Bagh

“Only let this one tear-drop, this Taj Mahal, 

glisten spotlessly bright on the cheek of time, forever and ever. “

– Nobel laureate, Rabindranath Tagore

Nothing can describe Taj Mahal better than these immortal words of Rabindranath Tagore. India is home to some of the most extraordinary pieces of architecture. Arguably, there are better works of architecture in India, viz. Kailash Temple (Maharashtra), or Rameswaram Temple (Tamil Nadu) or Jagannath Temple (Odisha). However, purely from aesthetics point of view, none better than Taj Mahal. Why only India, it’s perhaps the most beautiful monument in the whole world.

agra-taj-mahal
The Taj and its reflection!

Taj Mahal, a wonder of the world

Shah Jahan, the Mughal emperor, is one of the greatest builders of all time. This is evident from the number of magnificent monuments he built during his lifetime. From Agra to Delhi and Lahore, his signature is all over the Indian subcontinent. But Taj Mahal in Agra is the crown jewel among all his glittering achievements. 

In memory of his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal, Shah Jahan built this timeless beauty on the banks of Yamuna river. As fate would have it, he would spend the last part of his life looking at it from a distance from Agra Fort, where he was confined by his own son, Aurangzeb!

taj-mahal-view-agra-fort
View of Taj from Agra Fort

Built over 22 years between 1631 and 1653, this was one of the grandest architectural project of the era. Marbles were brought from Rajasthan, and precious stones from all across Asia and Europe. While the chief architect- Ustad Ahmed Lahori was from Lahore (Pakistan), over 20,000 sculptors and craftsmen came from all over India and central Asia. {To know more details, check out: All about the Taj}

For monuments all over the world, a UNESCO World Heritage tag is an aspiration. However, there are some monuments that themselves make the UNESCO List prestigious. Taj Mahal in Agra is one such monument. No wonder then that it was among the first few monuments in India to be recognized as a World Heritage Site in 1983. {For more such UNESCO sites, check out: Angkor Wat (Cambodia) ||| Ayutthaya (Thailand)}

old-picture-taj-mahal
An old picture of the Taj, when the British started renovating it

My memories of Agra, and the symbol of love

I vividly remember my first sight of the Taj Mahal about two decades ago. Many a times, when you hear rave reviews of a place, your expectations can soar so high that the actual experience can be a dampener. But not in case of the Taj. From the main gate, passing through a shady corridor, when I came to have the first view of the Taj, I spontaneously called out- “WOW!!!”. It was so much more than what I imagined! The reality was grander than the imagination. From the first view-point, the distance of the Taj is more than 100 meters. But still it looked like standing just in front of me! I couldn’t believe my eyes.

taj-mahal-agra-tour
First view | L: Darwaza-i-Rauza; R: Taj from there
agra-taj-mahal-brothers
Brothers at the Taj, 2008

Since then I have visited Agra a number of times and have explored well both the Taj Mahal complex and other myriad places in the city. On my first visit with my brother, without any proper research, we just visited Taj Mahal and Agra Fort. But during the next visits, I made it a point to explore the various corners of the city.

When I visited Itimad-ud-Daulah for the first time, I was awestruck at its beauty. Though much smaller in grandeur, it was a pleasant surprise. Watching the Taj Mahal from across the Yamuna river was another such amazing experience. Much like my first visit, while visiting Agra, many travellers don’t quite know how to explore Taj Mahal to have the best experience. Besides, their experience is limited to Taj Mahal and Agra Fort. So, here I would like to shed light on how to explore the city comprehensively.

taj-mahal-agra-best-winter-destinations
Next visit with Parina, 2011

Best way to explore Taj Mahal, Agra

While visiting first time, I remember how overwhelming the experience was. Plus, it was not the right time! Right under the blazing sun of the afternoon, neither the weather was pleasant nor it was good for photography. As a photography enthusiast, retrospectively, I think I didn’t know the right spots to take pictures too. But as I visited several times later, I sorted out the best way to explore Taj Mahal. Here’s sharing some tips from my experience. 

Best time of the day to visit Taj Mahal, Agra:
  • Taj Mahal is open for visitors on all days except Fridays
  • It opens for visitors just before the sunrise and closes just before sunset; time varies from season to season. So, check their official website for details.
  • However, it also opens for night-time viewing, five times a month: on full moon day, and two days before and after full moon (except Fridays, of course). Taj Mahal looks magical under the full moon.
  • Sunrise is the best time to visit Taj Mahal, because the temperature would be pleasant and just right light for photography. Besides, It’s relatively less crowded early on in the day. As the sun makes its way up in the horizon, Taj Mahal emerges slowly from the mist or fog, depending on the season.
  • If you miss sunrise, sunset is the next best time; enter at least 2-3 hours before sunset time.
agra-taj-mahal-sunrise
Taj Mahal at sunrise, from far
Entry tips for Taj Mahal, Agra:
  • There are three gates to enter Taj Mahal- east, west and south gates. However, one can enter only from east and west gates currently. 
  • Entry tickets are available at east and west gates through out the day. One can book tickets online as well; here’s the link: ASI- Entry Ticket. In fact, it’s prudent to take the tickets online to avoid long queues. 
  • While booking, keep in mind that visiting the Mausoleum is optional, and one needs to pay a bit extra.
  • It’s a good idea to take a guide along. At the entry gates, one would find many guides approaching visitors. Do look for their official authorization card, and they do negotiate price too.
  • Try not to bring any bags with you. Otherwise, you have to stand in a long queue to deposit the bag at at the entry gate.
  • One can roam around the Taj Mahal complex for a period of three hours for one entry.
main-gate-taj-mahal-agra
Entrance to the Taj
Photography tips for Taj Mahal, Agra:
  • While entering Taj Mahal, photography is definitely a big thing on everyone’s mind. So, it’s good to dress for the occasion. Maybe, a dark colour dress to contrast the pure white background!
  • As I said earlier, sunrise and sunset are the best times to visit Taj Mahal.
  • Darwaza-i-Rauza, the point where one has the first view of Taj Mahal, is where one cannot miss a chance to capture their first Taj moment.
  • Next up is the midway point from there to the Taj Mahal, i.e. at the center of Charbagh (four gardens). Find the famous bench just in the middle, take a pose with the Taj in the background, like millions of visitors have done before you. Besides, capture the Taj in the reflections of the water in the tank around the fountain.
  • From the middle, head towards the left side of Taj Mahal- the Jama Masjid (mosque). From inside the mosque, one can click some really lovely frames of the Taj.
  • One gets nice frames of the Taj Mahal from the garden (Char Bagh) side as well.
jama-masjid-taj-mahal-agra
Jama Masjid in Taj Mahal Complex
agra-taj-mahal-frame
Framing Taj from Jama Masjid
jama-masjid-agra
A beautiful wall, Jama Masjid

Exploring Agra beyond Taj Mahal

Unaware of an Agra beyond Taj Mahal, many tourists miss out out on some of the architectural gems of Agra. Yes, most of the tourists do visit Agra Fort, but not the other monuments. So, if you are a first-time visitor, or have missed out on things, here are places you must note down. 

Mehtab Bagh:

Moving out of Taj Mahal in Agra, one is still not quite away from Taj Mahal. On our last trip, one fine morning, driving to the other side of Yamuna river, we reached this pretty garden exact opposite to the Taj. With both flowering and fruiting plants, the garden looked lush and delightful. We spent the spring morning there in pleasant sunshine with friends (Prashant and Prerna) and took some lovely pictures.

mehtab-bagh-taj-view
Taj Mahal as seen from Mehtab Bagh | Prerna- Prashant with the kids

Shah Jahan was so obsessed with Taj Mahal that he built this garden just to view the Taj from a distance! It was one of the 11 Mughal Gardens built all over India by the Mughals during their reign. So, it must be quite an impressive garden in its heydays. However, in course of time, the garden was forgotten only to be renovated in the 1990s. The best part is that the ASI has recreated the garden by planting only the original plant species as the Mughals had. Hibiscus, Nerium, Neem, Bottle Brush, Citrus plants, Pomegranate, Jamun, Ashoka are among the 81 plant species that cover the landscape of Mehtab Bagh.

mehtab-bagh-agra
L: Taj from Mehtab Bagh | R: Prashant with Nidhish
Agra Fort:

After Taj Mahal, the next most visited place in Agra is the Red Fort of Agra, popularly known as Agra Fort. Though the exact date of its construction is not known, its first occupant was Sikander Lodi of the Lodi dynasty. When his successor Ibrahim Lodi lost the battle of Panipat in 1526 to Babur, it marked the end of Delhi Sultanate, and the fort came under the Mughals. Though Babur, and his successors added several structures to the fort, the fort in its current form was mostly built by Shah Jahan.

agra-fort
Inside Agra Fort

Undoubtedly, Agra Fort is one of the best forts in India, even better than the Red Fort in Delhi. And yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site in Agra (details: the Fort), in close proximity (~2 kms) to Taj Mahal. What I love about the Fort’s architecture is its fine balance between projecting military prowess and showcasing intricate Mughal artistry. 

Strolling past various structures, and buildings in the complex, I got a glimpse into the way administration functioned in those days. Much like today’s parliament, there was Upper House (Diwan-i-Khas) and Lower House (Diwan-i-Aam). From Jodha Bai’s Palace on the backside of the fort, one can take a glimpse of the Taj Mahal, like Shah Jahan did in his last days. 

agra-fort-complex
With sister's family in Agra Fort complex
agra-fort-interior
A pavilion in white marble at Agra Fort
agra-fort-architecture-2
Look at the exquisite design, and artistry! (Agra Fort)
Fatehpur Sikri:

Your visit to Agra (and Taj Mahal) would not be complete without taking a half-day trip to Fatehpur Sikri. Only about 40 kms west of Taj Mahal, Fatehpur Sikri is yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site, another Mughal gem. Between 1572 and 1584, it served as the capital of the Mughal empire under Akbar the great. In celebration of his victory in Gujarat, Akbar had built this city and named it “Fatehabad”. In fact, it was the first planned city of the Mughals. But unfortunately, it didn’t last long! Fatehabad became Fatehpur Sikri in course of time.

fatehpur-sikri-gate
Front Gate, Fatehpur Sikri

I was quite impressed by its front gate- Buland Darwaza, its massive, and beautifully designed. Another interesting feature is that unlike other Mughal monuments, it’s built over a raised platform. To reach the Buland Darwaza, one has to climb about 100 large steps. Inside the complex, the major structures are Diwan-i-Khas, Diwan-i-Aam, Tomb of Saint Salim Chisti, Jama Masjid, Anup Talao (pond), and more.  

fatehpur-sikri
Posing at the Fatehpur Sikri complex
Sikandra (Tomb of Akbar):

While Akbar ruled from Fatehpur Sikri, his mortal remains were kept in Agra itself, at Sikandra. Over a period of 8 years (1605- 1613), Jahangir built a gorgeous tomb for his father, Akbar. In the middle of 119 acres of lush green campus, stands this beautiful monument in red sand stone. White marble inlays over red sand stone makes the building an arty affair. 

About 15 kms away from Taj Mahal, in the outskirts of Agra, a lot of tourists give it a miss. But I would highly recommend visiting the tomb of one of India’s most famous Kings.

akbar's-tomb-sikandra
Akbar's Tomb, Sikandra
Itimad-Ud-Daulah (Tomb of Mirza Ghiyas Beg)/ “Baby Taj”:

A relatively small, but stunning piece of architecture- Itimad-Ud-Daulah is the final resting place of Mirza Ghiyas Beg. He had a title of Itimad-Ud-Daulah meaning “pillar of the state”. An important officer of in the Mughal administration, father of Nur Jahan (wife of Jahangir) and grand father of Mumtaz Mahal, Ghiyas deserved this magnificent tomb commissioned by his daughter.

itimad-ud-daulah-tomb
Front Gate, Itimad-Ud-Daulah
itimad-ud-daulah-agra
Itimad-Ud-Daulah

Since it was sort of an experiment in the Pietra Dura architectural style in Agra that predated Taj Mahal, many call it the “Baby Taj”. Standing on the bank of Yamuna river, the monument looks like a ‘jewel box’, and is quite unique among all Mughal structures. Like most visitors, I also gave it a miss during my first few visits to Agra. However, it came to my notice one day while scrolling social media pages. When I visited Agra next time, I made it a point to have a look, and I was awestruck by its beauty.

itimad-ud-daulah-details
Details on the walls of Itimad-Ud-Daulah
Chini Ka Rauza (Tomb of Allama Afzal Khan):
Allama Afzal Khan was a Prime Minister during Shah Jahan’s reign. Interestingly, he was also a poet. His mortal remains are buried at Chini Ka Rauza, a monument very close to Itimad-Ud-Daulah. In the proximity of some of the most wonderful monuments, its rather simple architecture draws very few. However, if you are an architecture lover or, go after historic ruins, you shouldn’t miss this one.
 
Apart from these monuments, in the evening, if you have time, visit the “I Love Agra” selfie point. This is a fun park created especially for the tourists. Since there is not much to do in the evening, on our last trip, we visited this park and had a good time.
i-love-agra-selfie-point
"I-Love-Agraa" Selfie Point
i-love-agra-selfie
L: Prashant and Prerna with the kids | A graffiti work
Day trip options from Taj Mahal, Agra:

Beyond Taj Mahal, and the precincts of Agra, if one has some more time, one can visit a few other great locations as day-trips. Have a look at the list below to choose from. 

  • Bateshwar Group of Temples (Morena): Built between 8th -11th centuries, ruins of about 200 sand stone temples adorn the villages near Morena, ~120 kms away towards Gwalior. One can club it with a visit to Dholpur on the way. Dholpur is popular for its palace and Chambal river safari.
  • Mathura and Vrindavan: Mathura being the birth place of Lord Krishna, and Vrindavan is where he spent his childhood, these are two of Hinduism’s most sacred places. Located adjacent to each ~65 kms away, one can visit both the towns in a day.
  • Keoladeo Ghana (Bharatpur) Bird Sanctuary: Another UNESCO World Heritage Site, in the ‘natural’ category, this is an amazing place for bird lovers. Just ~60 kms away, it’s perfect for a half-day trip, and one can club it with Fatehpur Sikri (on the way). To know more, check out: Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary.
oriental-darter-bharatpur-bird-sanctuary
An Oriental Darter | Keoladeo Ghana Bird Sanctuary (Bharatpur)

Agra: Travel Tips

Best time to visit Taj Mahal, Agra:

Though Agra and Taj Mahal receive large number of visitors through out the year, autumn- winter- spring months (Oct- Apr) are the best months to visit. May to to September months are hot, humid and monsoon months. So, it’s hardly a pleasant time to experience the Taj.

How to reach:

At just 250 kms and a four hour drive from Delhi, Agra is a convenient destination via the capital city. 

  • Flight: Nearest airport is in Delhi. From there, one can choose a train, luxury bus or regular bus, or a taxi, depending on the budget
  • Railway: Agra has  two major railways stations
  • Bus: Regular bus services from major cities of Uttar Pradesh, Delhi and some cities of Rajasthan and Madhya Pradesh.
Where to stay:
  • Budget hotels: The Taj Vilas Agra |||| Amar ||| Clarks Shiraz ||| The PL Palace ||| Moti Palace ||| Atulyaa Taj ||| Taj Sojourn ||| Taj Vista Agra ||| Marc Royal ||| Grand Imperial ||| Avalon Palms ||| Hotel Orange.
  • Hostels: The Hosteller ||| Bedweiser Backpackers Agra ||| Joey’s Hostel ||| Friends Guesthouse & Hostel. 
How to get around:

Being a relatively small town, one can get on to an auto-rickshaw to get around the town. Of course, taxis are a bit costly. Bikes and bicycles are available on rent too.

What/ Where to eat:
  • Must try: Petha (sweets) ||| Bedai & Jalebi (Deviram Sweets) ||| Mughlai cuisine (around Jama Masjid area) ||| Chaat (Chaat Gali, Sadar Bazaar) ||| Dalmoth.
  • Popular cafes/ restaurants: Taj Bano (Indian) ||| Deviram Sweets & Restaurant ||| Pinch of Spice (Mughlai) ||| Sankara Vegis (for vegetarians) ||| Glassy Bar ||| The Salt Cafe ||| Nawaab’s ||| Joney’s Place.
petha-sweets-agra-2
Petha, the most popular sweet dish from Agra

Concluding Thoughts

I have met people who told me that Taj Mahal in Agra is overhyped. At the same time, majority of visitors are completely overwhelmed with its beauty. As always, truth lies somewhere in between. Yes, there might be grander structures elsewhere, and more beautiful works on stone elsewhere. But if you combine grandeur with beauty, none comes close to Taj Mahal in Agra.

While starting to write this place, I wondered if there’s anything additional I can write that has not already been written! And the answer was, ‘no’! Still I thought of writing something, just to have ‘Taj Mahal’ on my blog!! Anyway, the focus of the article is how to explore Agra well, and not only Taj Mahal. I hope I have helped someone somewhere to plan their trip well. 

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.