Khajuraho: Travel guide to the stunning temples and beyond

In the rural hinterlands of Madhya Pradesh, and amidst the forests of central India, lie some of the most extraordinary temples ever built in the world. Architectural marvel of Khajuraho group of temples is truly remarkable. However, its fascinating history is as much captivating as its architectural ingenuity. For more than a thousand years, these temples have served as important places of worship for Hindus and Jains. In recent times though, Khajuraho has come to be known to the world more for its erotic sculptures than its religious significance. If you haven’t still been there, here’s a travel guide to the stunning temples of Khajuraho and beyond.

From the magnificent temples to pristine forests with waterfalls and tigers, Khajuraho has many shades of grey, brown and green. Besides, for history/ heritage lovers, there are a number of forts from the Chandela times in the vicinity to explore. In recent times, they have come up with enjoyable local cultural experiences for the travellers as well.

Though I had earlier written an article on my previous trip on the Khajuraho- Orchha- Jhansi circuit, I feel Khajuraho deserves a more detailed article. So, here’s this exclusive travel guide on Khajuraho with my personal experiences and travel tips. {However, if you interested in Orchha, here’s your read: Orchha- 6 best places}

Our tryst with Khajuraho

Just last month, in January 2026, I and Parina revisited Khajuraho after 15 long years. I was surprised to see how very little has changed! Except perhaps the change of the entry gate to the main temple complex, there was no significant change. And of course, a few more hotels. As it’s been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1986, I was expecting a lot more development around the area. Also, the number of visitors was relatively low! Considering it was peak tourist season, it was another reason for bewilderment. However, we weren’t complaining! Because less tourists meant we had a hassle-free trip.

Since our first trip was in the summer season, we couldn’t enjoy much. It was too hot and humid to be out in the sun. So, we could only see the main temples of Khajuraho and visited the nearby Raneh Falls. But this time in winters, we thoroughly explored all the temples at slow pace, visited Raneh Falls, Panna National Park area and also had some lovely cultural experiences.

Our itinerary:

To explore all the places of interest in and around Khajuraho, one needs 4-5 days. But we had 3 days on hand. Here is how we made the best use of our time in and around Khajuraho:

Day-1: Reached Khajuraho. Explored the eastern group of temples
Day-2: Explored the western group of temples in the first half. In the second half, visited Raneh Falls area
Day-3: In the first half, visited Panna National Park area and explored the monuments of Panna town. To wind up the day, we spent some time at Pandav Falls/ Caves.

Still, we couldn’t visit the erstwhile capital cities and forts of Chandelas in Mahoba, Kalinjar, Ajaygarh and Chhatarpur. Visiting these places would have given us more insight into the way the Chandelas ruled and built their monuments. Anyway, there’s always a next time!

Khajuraho, from the pages of history: Lost and found!

Before getting to the travel guide to the temples of Khajuraho, let’s talk a bit about their history. Between 950 CE and 1050 CE, the Kings of Chandela dynasty built some of the most stunning temples. They were among the earliest great temples of India. Chandelas made it a point that they were built as much in pursuit of architectural excellence as much in reverence to the Gods. Strategically, they kept the location of these temples away from their capital city of Mahoba and their fort in Kalinjar.

However, after decades of rule, when the Chandelas were defeated by Delhi Sultanate in 13th century, the invading army damaged the temples and forests reclaimed their place. And the great temples went into oblivion for a long time. But not for ever. As fate would have it, a British surveyor discovered them in1838 while passing through the region. Astonished by the beauty of the architecture of these temples, the Britishers restored the ruins and took care of their conservation. So, we can always thank the British for this, and many such heritage conservation initiatives throughout India.

{For more such Hindu Temple destinations, check out: Ayodhya- Ram Mandir ||| Dwarka Temple}

Khajuraho, the inspiration:

Great temples of Angkor Wat in Cambodia came up about 200 years later (than Khajuraho) in the 12th century. I guess that Khajuraho temples might have in certain ways inspired the Angkor Wat temples through the visiting traders and officials of the era. Is there any academic studies to establish any organic relationship between the two? Though Angkor temples are relatively grander in size, Khajuraho temples are finer, more intricate in design and details.

Uncanny resemblance in history:

Interestingly, there’s an uncanny resemblance between the histories of the two greatest Hindu temples in the world. Invading Armies had sacked both Angkor and Khajuraho in the 12th century. Both remained oblivion to the outer world for over 600 years. After remaining in the wilderness for centuries, Europeans (Khajuraho: British; Angkor: French) rediscovered both of them in the 19th century.

Now, let’s come to the main agenda of the article- travel guide to the temples of Khajuraho and beyond. While planning a trip to Khajuraho, one would probably think of these main things- temple architecture; the must-visit temples; how to explore the area; and what else apart from the temples. So, let me answer these questions one by one in this Khajuraho travel guide now.

Architecture of Khajuraho group of monuments

At one point of time, there were 85 temples spread over 20 sq. kms. in Khajuraho. However, only about 20- 25 of them still remain! Some of them fell to the invading Muslim armies, and the forces of nature consumed the rest over hundreds of years. Now, ASI takes care of these temples. Only one of these temples (Matangeshwar) is still in service. Because Hindus don’t worship desecrated idols.

Following Nagara style (north India) of architecture, each of these temples was a masterpiece. The temples used granite for foundation and sandstones as building material for the temple-body. Since the builders didn’t know the use of mortar, they joined the sandstones by mortise and tenon joints with immaculate precision.

The basic temple structure included: a sanctum (the main shrine), a transept (mahamandapa), an ante-chamber for the deity, and an ambulatory path for going around the ante-chamber. Depending on the size of the temple, there would be more than one mandapa. If architecture is your thing, here’s a good reference: Architecture of Khajuraho Temples.

Symbol of religious harmony:

Since Chandelas were primarily Shaivites (worshippers of Lord Shiva), most of the temples were dedicated to Lord Shiva. However, they also built temples dedicated to other Hindu and Jain deities.

Experts have found out that the Hindu and Jain temples were being constructed at about the same time which shows a great degree of religious harmony in those days. Moreover, it depicts how the Chandela rulers practiced the policy of secularism more than a thousand years ago! Indeed, a great lesson for present day governments across the globe.

Richness of sculpture in Khajuraho temples:

The overall architecture of the temples in Khajuraho is enhanced significantly by the richness of its sculptures. The detailing and intricacy of sculpture both on the exteriors and interiors of the temples are just extraordinary.

These sculptures are largely inspired by two things- Hindu mythology/ scriptures and daily lives of people of their times. The Gods, Goddesses and celestial characters adorn the walls majestically. Besides, common men and women are shown performing daily chores, religious rituals, wedding processions, battle scenes, etc. However, what Khajuraho is widely famous for are the erotic sculptures and imagery on its walls.

Khajuraho is not all about eroticism:

People often discuss and quote Khajuraho temples for their erotic sculptures depicting sexual themes. However, there are only about 10% such sculptures. One of the explanations of such erotic sculptures is that in those days with growing influence of Buddhism, people were turning ascetic. So, the Kings, in order to stop such influence, depicted eroticism as part of sex education for masses at religious places.

However, my interpretation is a bit different. The sculptures depict the whole life cycle of human beings- from birth to death including everyday-activities. It’s but obvious that love and sex are parts of a normal life. Thus, the 10% erotic sculptures represent the ‘recreation’ part of life.

Khajuraho was not the only temple with eroticism:

More importantly, Khajuraho was not the only temple with such sculptures depicting eroticism. Temples built in the same period at Konark (in Odisha) and in south India also had similar sculptures. There is no proof till now if there was a common manual that the architects of the period followed. Or, were the travellers across the regions influenced the sculptures? Or, maybe the Kings and their officials traveled across India and got inspired by such sculptures elsewhere. Whatever it was, most probably there was some common connection.

In any case, don’t get fooled by the numerous vendors selling books depicting Kamasutra. The temples don’t intend to portray Kamasutra in anyway. The vendors are just making a living by selling those books, and they know ‘sex’ sells well!

This debate fascinates me so much that I would like to study this further and write a separate article sometime later.

Travel Guide to the best temples in Khajuraho

While planning the trip, one generally wonders which are the best temples and how are they located around the town. So, this Khajuraho travel guide wouldn’t be complete without delving into the details of the temples.

Location of the temples:

There are three main groups of temples in Khajuraho- the eastern, western and southern groups. While most of the western group of temples are situated within a campus, eastern and southern groups are a bit away from the main town. The western group is the closest to the center of the town and also boasts of the best temples.

Western group: Outside the main complex: Lalguan Mahadev || Chausath Jogini || Matangeshwara. Inside the main complex: Kandariya Mahadev || Jagadambi || Chitragupta || Vishwanath || Nandi || Parvati || Pratapeshwara || Lakshmana || Varaha || Laksmi.
Eastern group: Brahma || Vamana || Javari || Ghantai || Parshwanath || Adinath || Shantinath.

Southern group: Dulhadeo || Chaturbhuja/ Jatkari || Beejamandal (partially excavated).

Best temples:

Undoubtedly, the western group of temples in Khajuraho are the best ones. Among the 12 temples within the western group complex, two are especially extraordinary and original- Kandariya Mahadev and Lakshmana temples. To be honest, Vishwanath temple and Chitragupta temple also looked equally wonderful to me.

However, our tour guide told us that they are almost replicas of Kandariya Mahadev and Lakshmana temples. Between the two, while Kandariya Mahadev is architecturally better, Lakshmana temple has better sculptures. To a large extent, other temples around Khajuraho, some way or the other, follow the architecture and sculpture of these two temples.

When you enter the western group complex, on your left you will see the Kandariya Mahadev Temple and on your right will be the Lakshmana Temple.

Lakshmana Temple:

The oldest surviving temples in Khajuraho are: Chausath Jogini Temple (885 CE), Lalguan Mahadev Temple (900 CE) and Brahma Temple (925 CE), all built in late 9th and early 10th centuries. However, they were relatively small temples. Between 930- 950 CE, under the reign of King Yashovarman, came up the first truly large temple in Khajuraho dedicated to Lord Vishnu.

Standing at 85 feet (~25.9 mts) tall on a raised platform, the temple looks magnificent with four satellite temples in four directions on the same platform. The quality of sculpture both on the exterior walls and inside the temple are of the highest order. Especially on the walls of southern side, the explicit images of sexual postures are a big draw.

However, the biggest attraction of the temple is its main idol- Vaikuntha Vishnu. With three heads (front: human; left: boar; right: lion) and four hands made of sandstone, the 4-feet tall idol is a masterpiece of art. In front of the main temple, there are two other temples: the Varaha Temple and Lakshmi Temple.

Kandariya Mahadev Temple:

Some 75 years after the construction of Lakshmana Temple, King Vidyadhara commissioned the Kandariya Mahadev Temple. Completed around 1050 CE, this is the largest temple in Khajuraho. Standing on a raised platform, the temple measures 102 feet (~31 mts). Since the temple is dedicated to Lord shiva, the main shrines houses a large Shiva Lingam.

The entire surface of the exteriors of the temple is covered with hundreds of stunningly rich sculptures. Interestingly, the interiors of the temple are plain in contrast to the beautiful sculptures of the exteriors. Maybe, this is in nature of the deity of the temple- Lord Shiva.

Beside the Kandariya Mahadev Temple stands a smaller temple- Jagadambi Temple.

Other significant temples:

The oldest surviving temple: Chausath Jogini Temple
The only temple dedicated to the Sun God: Chitragupta Temple
The only temple still in service (with a 8-feet high Shiva Lingam): Matangeshwar Temple
Only temple in Khajuraho without erotic sculptures: Chaturbhuja Temple
Among the rare temples of India dedicated to: Brahma and Vamana.

Khajuraho Travel Guide, beyond the temples

Contrary to what people generally think, Khajuraho has a lot more than only the temples. The nearby Panna National Park within the Vindhya Mountain Range has much to offer. Rivers making gorges, waterfalls, forests, wildlife and cultural experiences are all around for the taking. Furthermore, in the town itself, one can visit a tribal museum and enjoy a cultural show. So, here’s the travel guide to the places in Khajuraho beyond the temples.

Raneh Waterfall and Gorge:

Once done with the temples, we headed to the tranquility of forests nearby. About 10 kms away from the main town, Raneh Falls and the gorge created by Ken River is a lovely peaceful place to spend time with the nature. When we visited the Raneh Falls, the sun was about to go down the horizon. In golden hour, we enjoyed the sight of the waterfall on the Ken River. A little ahead of the waterfall, the river makes a deep gorge making an awe inspiring sight.

Panna National Park:

One of the best national parks and tiger reserves in Madhya Pradesh, Panna is a must-visit for wildlife or nature lovers. Once the National Park had lost all its tigers. But a successful reintroduction of tigers has made it a great day trip from Khajuraho. Now, Panna has about 70 tigers and visitors often report sighting one. But one must pre-book a safari to enter the national park. (Check out the official site: Panna Tiger Safari) Otherwise, one may be disappointed.

Pandav Falls and Caves:

In case, you didn’t get a booking for tiger safari in Panna National Park, there’s another way you can enter the National Park. Head to Pandav Falls and Caves in the core area of the National Park. When we visited the place, the waterfall was not that lively; it comes to life in the monsoon season. However, getting down to the caves was a great experience. Only a few weeks ago, a tiger had strayed into that place scaring off visitors.

Panna Town:

Not far from the Panna National Park is the Panna town. Instinctively, I thought of visiting the town. It turned out to be a good decision. Taking good part of a day, we explored its heritage buildings, temples and streets. If you also choose to visit, these are some of the interesting places to visit: Jugalkishore Temple || Govindji Temple || Jagannath Swami Temple || Baldevji Temple || Hindupat Mahal || Rani ka Makbara.

Adivart Museum:

Back in Khajuraho, we really liked visiting the Adivart Tribal and Folk Art State Museum in the evening. The museum exhibits curated houses of various tribal communities like Gond, Bhil, Kol, Korku and Baiga. Inside these houses, one would see artefacts from tribal societies like masks, jewellery, terracotta figurines, musical instruments and crafts.

Folk Dance and Music:

Another experience we loved in Khajuraho this time was a folk dance and music performance at a local theater (NVR Cinemas). Actually, we didn’t know about this. While moving around the town, our auto-driver told us about this, and we agreed instantly. A local cultural group presented lovely folk dances like Badhai, Rai, Norta, Jawara and Varedi. These dancers, in their traditional colourful dresses and beautiful moves enthralled a packed house.

Khajuraho: Travel Tips

In the last part of this travel guide to Khajuraho, let me share some tips on planning, logistics, accommodation and food, etc.

Best time to visit Khajuraho:

Summer months through the monsoon season are absolutely hot and humid. Hence, one would find it really difficult to visit Khajuraho from April to September, like we found out during our first trip. Thus, one should plan sometime during October to March to have the best experience.
Furthermore, Khajuraho Dance Festival, that completed its 50th edition in 2024, is held every year in February. So, dance/ culture lovers must look up for dates before planning.
If Panna National Park/ Tiger Reserve is also in your plans, Feb and March are the best months.

How to explore Khajuraho:

As I mentioned earlier, One needs 4-5 days to explore the temples of Khajuraho and other places of interest nearby. For convenience, let me share a plan:

Day-1: If you reach in the first half of the day, visit the eastern + southern groups in the afternoon/ early evening. To wrap up the day, head to the light-and-sound show near the western group after it’s dark.
Day-2: Early in the morning, visit the western group and walk around the complex slowly. Note: Before entering the western group, first visit the Chausath Jogini temple just before the main entrance. Otherwise, you will miss it (since the exit is on another side). Late in the afternoon, visit the Raneh Falls area. In the evening, enjoy a cultural show at NVR Cinema.
Day-3: Head to Panna National Park/ Tiger Reserve. It will take good part of a day. During second part of the day, visit Pandav Falls/ Caves and explore the nearby Panna historic town. Coming back, in the evening, visit the Tribal Museum.
Day-4: Take a day trip to Ajaygarh Fort and Kalinjar Fort. And, leave for your home town on day-5.

How to reach Khajuraho:

Flight: Khajuraho has a domestic airport; direct flights from Delhi and Varanasi.
Train: Direct trains from Delhi and some other major cities in India. Recently, Vande Bharat super fast express has been a great addition.
Road: Direct buses to Chhatarpur, 45 kms away from Khajuraho.

Where to stay in Khajuraho:

Some budget hotel suggestions: Hotel Casa Di William || Hotel Ramakrishna || Hotel Bundela || Atithi Inn || The High Vill Homestay || Holiday Homestay || Hotel Surya || Hotel Zen.

Where/ what to eat:

The travel guide would not be complete without tips on the best places to eat in Khajuraho. So, here are a few cafes and restaurants one should check out.

Raja Cafe (near the western group) ||| Pinch of Salt (Bundelkhandi chicken curry) ||| Lalaji Ki Rasoi (vegetarian) ||| Badri Seth Marwari Bhoj (north Indian) ||| Flavours Cafe (multi-cuisine) ||| Maharaja. Besides, since it’s Madhya Pradesh, one should try the local favourite- poha- jalebi in breakfast.

Concluding Remarks

Khajuraho indeed is mainly about its UNESCO World Heritage temples. Because architectural beauty of the temples is the principal reason why thousands of travellers visit Khajuraho. However, I would suggest keeping 4-5 days on hand and explore the whole area. Contrary to common knowledge, the region has many more heritage sites than these famous temples. And of course, the natural beauty of the area is a huge value add. We have thoroughly enjoyed our two trips 15 years apart.

As I said earlier, over the last 15 years, there have been very little change in the area. In a way, it’s only good. Over-tourism can kill the charm of the area. It feels nice and peaceful to explore the area now. Hopefully, the authorities take good care of the monuments and they remain in good condition for years to come.

Last, but not the least, I hope you liked this travel guide on Khajuraho. And if you are planning a trip and want some more information, don’t hesitate to write to me.