The air is thin. The mountain is high. Cold winds sweep across the landscape. And the path leading there is not smooth. But Gurudongmar Lake sits there serenely up above the high Himalayas in the abode of the Gods. Situated over an altitude of 17,800 feet (5,430 mts) in a cold desert, Gurudongmar Lake is one of the highest freshwater lakes in the world. Its landscape is as much captivating as its legends are fascinating.
The lake’s natural beauty and spiritual significance have attracted travellers for centuries. However, not many manage to reach there. Owing to adverse weather conditions, roads remain closed most part of the year. A severe flood in 2023 saw the roads close for a long time. Though it opened briefly in 2025, the next monsoon again washed off sections of the road. Fortunately, I was among the lucky ones who could visit the legendary lake in April 2025.
Recently on 9th March, 2026, the authorities have opened up the roads to Gurudongmar Lake again. So, if you are among the ones who wants to visit the sacred lake now, here’s my experience with travel tips.
{For more destinations in Sikkim, have a look: Nathu La Pass ||| Yuksom}
Gurudongmar Lake: The high altitude sacred lake
Magic of the unfrozen spot:
While most part of the 290- acre Gurudongmar Lake freeze during the winters, a small portion miraculously remain unfrozen. At 17,800 feet and -20 degree C, if water doesn’t freeze, what would you say? Magic, right! Yes, because science has not been able to explain it till now. However, legends have some answer.
Legend of Guru Padmasambhava:
In 8th century, the Buddhist monk- Guru Padmasambhava (or, Guru Rinpoche) was passing by the lake. He found locals struggling for drinking water there during the winters. Hence, he touched the water and blessed it to remain unfrozen as source of drinking water for the locals. Since then, that portion of the lake remains so. This is why the lake is named after Guru Padmasambhava. ‘Guru’ means ‘Teacher’ and ‘Dongmar’ means ‘Red-Faced’ (~wrathful), often referred to Padmasambhava.
Similarly, Sikhs also believe that Guru Nanak Dev ji blessed the water to remain unfrozen. Whatever the truth maybe, these legends lend the lake some interesting stories.
Spiritual significance:
Buddhists, Hindus and Sikhs alike believe that the lake has a strong spiritual significance. Besides, people believe its water has healing powers also. In fact, I saw many travellers filling water bottles and carrying the sacred waters with them. Some Hindus associate the lake with Lord Shiva also. Couples seek blessings in matters of fertility.
On the bank of the lake, there’s this little shrine. Initially, it was set up by the Sikhs. But later, a bit of controversy led to naming it as Sarva-Dharma Sthal (Place for all faiths). Watching the lovely prayer flags flutter on the banks of the lake gives a sense of peace and equanimity.
Apart from its spiritual importance, Gurudongmaar Lake is a major source of water for Teesta River, the lifeline of Sikkim and West Bengal.
My exciting road trip to Gurudongmar Lake
After failing on two prior occasions due to weather conditions, I did a solo trip to Gurudongmar Lake in April 2025 at last. I chose April because it was the safest time from weather point of view. Though Gurudongmar Lake was the principal destination, I had planned for a comprehensive North Sikkim Tour; click here to read the detailed account of that trip.
Gangtok to Lachen:
On day-1, the trip started from Gangtok, the capital city of Sikkim. I had booked a seat in a shared-taxi for a 2-nights/ 3-days trip. The plan for first day was to reach Lachen in the evening. However, by evening, we reached Chungthang from where the road diverges- one to Lachen, and the other to Lachung. Ahead of Chungthang, because of heavy rains, we had to turn towards Lachung. Next day, after exploring Lachung, Yumthang Valley and Zero Point, we headed to Lachen in the evening.
Lachen, the cute little town/ hamlet:
It’s the little town/ hamlet of Lachen that is the base location for Gurudongmar Lake. Such a beautiful hamlet! As soon as we checked in at the homestay, I went for a walk around the streets of the hamlet. Situated over an altitude of 9,000 feet, Lachen exudes serenity. Its tranquil streets, lovely wooden houses and hospitable residents welcome you to their hamlet.
While taking a stroll on its streets, I noticed people storing their woods in an aesthetic way in front of their houses. I have seen similar ways of wood storage elsewhere in the mountains. But Lachen did it the most beautiful way- orderly and aesthetically.
On the second day, I met some residents and learnt about their unique governance system called Dzumsa. Their democratic administration includes representation of each and every household in the village. If I had more time, I would have liked to understand the system a bit more.
Besides, the Lachen Monastery, built in 1858 is a cute shrine. Apart from its spiritual importance, it gives stunning panoramic views of the Himalayas surrounding it.
Lachen to Thangu:
Early next morning, we got ready around 6.00 AM. After having black tea at the homestay, we headed to Gurudongmar Lake via Thangu. As soon as we crossed the beautiful town of Lachen, the roads became treacherous. The first major hindrance was crossing the rocky Teesta riverbed. After the floods washed off the bridge, there was only this road made by the running vehicles. Even after crossing the riverbed, the road on the other side was precarious. A person stood at a critical section to signal the vehicles if they could pass that section or not. Somehow, we managed to reach Thangu (~30 kms) in one and half hours.
Near the Thangu Bridge, in an eatery, we had our breakfast- bread and butter tea. Some people had maggie. But nothing else was available. Outside the eatery, the valley looked beautiful with houses sitting on the hill slopes.
Thangu to Gurudongmar Lake:
The road from Thangu to Gurudongmar was fine, a smooth black paved road passing through barren valleys. However, the last 2-3 kms were again rough. The drive was enjoyable with spectacular views of changing shades of the mountains. In most part, I remembered my trip to Ladakh- Zanskar some time back. A few months later, I visited Spiti Valley, whose landscapes were not much different as well. In fact, both Ladakh and Spiti Valley have the same spiritual vibes as well.
Starting from Thangu at ~8 AM, we reached Gurudongmar by 9 AM. The distance of 65 kms from Lachen to Gurudongmar Lake took us ~3 hours (including the break)!
Experience at Gurudongmar Lake:
Honestly, I cannot explain my feelings of reaching Gurudongmar Lake in words. I had been wanting to reach there for at least six years! Two failed attempts, and third time lucky. The look and feel of the lake was much like Pangong lake in Leh- Ladakh. Same turquoise blue water with snow- capped barren mountain peaks overlooking from all sides. The experience was as much overwhelming as philosophical and spiritual.
At places like this, one feels the essence of the creation. One is compelled to think of the larger scheme of things of the universe. Standing at the top of the lake, I had a sense of my physical being melting away into my spiritual being.
Interacting with fellow travellers, some of them biking their way up was fun. I took a round of the little shrine there and loved the flutter of the flags surrounding it.
Getting back:
Since oxygen levels are very thin up there, one shouldn’t hang around there for long. Hence, in about 45 minutes, we left the banks of Gurudongmar Lake and headed to Lachen again. On the way back, the driver offered us (for a little additional money) to visit Thangu Valley, Kala Patthar and Chopta Valley. Though it was a pretty appealing proposition, we didn’t have enough energy or time. Because the same afternoon, we were supposed to take the long road back to Gangtok.
Reaching the homestay in Lachen around 12.30 PM, we had our lunch quickly. And then, while others took some rest, I went on a walk around the hamlet. Again, chitchatted with locals, checked some hotels out and took lovely pictures of the streets.
It was about 2 PM that we started our journey back to Gangtok and reached there ~9.30 PM. The first part of the return trip was in good weather and enjoyable. But as we neared Gangtok, it got rainy and foggy. Luckily, we had a good driver and he managed very well.
The whole of next day, I explored the secrets of Gangtok- visited monasteries, waterfalls and market places. To know more about the best places in Gangtok, read: Best Places in Gangtok. On day-6 of the trip, I left for Siliguri to take my flight back to Delhi.
Travel Tips: Gurudongmar Lake
Best time to visit Gurudongmar Lake:
Planning your trip to Gurudongmar Lake:
A trip to Gurudongmar Lake will require between 5-6 days. From Gangtok to Gurudongmar Lake and back, it will take two nights and three days (including Lachung side). Travellers from outside will take a day at least to reach Gangtok and a day to come back. Besides, one should keep a reserve day on hand for uncertainties. If everything goes well, use that reserve day for exploring Gangtok, as I did.
Route overview:
- From Gangtok to Chungthang (95 kms ~ 5 to 6 hours drive): Roads are good and bad intermittently. But generally okay. Roads pass through a landscape of green forests, rivers and waterfalls.
- From Chungthang to Lachen (28 kms ~ one and half hours): Dangerous drive; one should cross this section in day light. A critical new bridge allows only one vehicle at a time.
- From Lachen to Thangu (30 kms ~ one and half hours): Treacherous road passing through difficult river and mountain sections. So, be careful.
- From Thangu to Gurudongmar (35 kms ~ one hour): Good paved road; enjoyable drive with stunning vistas.
Permit requirement to Gurudongmar Lake:
Since it’s close to a high-sensitive international border with China, travellers require a Protected Area Permit (PAP). For RAP, one must apply through a travel guide/ tour operator registered in Sikkim. They will ask for documents like government identity proof (note: Aadhar is not accepted) and address proof. For more details, check out the government site: Protected Area Permit- Sikkim.
Foreigners need to apply for both PAP and RAP- Restricted Area Permit. Plus, they must travel in a group of at least two, and with a local guide.
While driving towards Gurudongmar Lake, just ahead of Thangu, there’s a check post. One needs to show the permit to verify oneself; it takes about 5- 10 minutes.
How to reach:
Considering all the permit requirements and uncertainties, it’s always a good idea to visit Gurudongmar Lake with a guide or tour operator. Generally, they run SUVs like Maxx, Sumo, Innova, etc. Try to get a front or side- middle seat. Maybe, you have to pay an extra amount for that.
Where to stay:
Generally, accommodation is taken care of by the tour operators. In fact, they charge the trip mainly as per the quality/ cost of accommodation. However, if you are doing it on your own, here are a few suggestions:
- Lhakhim Homestay ||| Travellers of Sikkim ||| Monomita Residency ||| Khenkhim Regency ||| Rufina Blue Pine ||| Delight Royal Lachen.
What/ Where to eat:
As the tour is managed by the travel agency, food is also taken care of at the hotels/ homestays. But if you like exploring local eateries, here are a few options:
- Good cafes: Ingredient Resto-Bar ||| Pub Yakuza ||| Rufina Lachen Deezong ||| Cafe 15000 (on the way to Gurudongmar Lake, run by Indian Army).
- Among the must try dishes are: Momos; Thukpa/ Thenthuk; Gundruk; Phagshapa; Butter Tea.
Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) and other safety issues
Altitude Sickness:
High altitude means most people from the plains will have some kind of minor/ major health issues while travelling to Gurudongmar Lake. Minor issues include headache and nausea. While these are manageable, more serious issues like Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), HAPE and HACE can be fatal. So, one must know the dangers and take necessary precautions. To know more, do check out: Acute Mountain Sickness.
Acclimatization and precautions:
- Knowing and accepting that this is common and can happen to anyone, helps
- Going slow and spending at least a night in Lachen is good
- Good sleep before and during the trip is paramount
- It’s a good idea to keep some emergency medicines like Diamox. But use it only after consulting a doctor.
- Keeping a small oxymeter and portable oxygen cylinder for emergency is a good idea.
What to pack:
- Clothes and accessories: Inner thermal wears; sweaters and jackets. Though two layers are enough for the summer- spring season, 3-4 layers are necessary for autumn- winter ||| Snow boots; Gloves; Sunglasses; Woolen caps; Mufflers.
- Skin care: Good quality sunscreen lotion; Moisturizer.
- Medicines: Diamox tablets; First-aid box; Portable oxygen container (locally available in Lachen).
- Others: Cash; Chocolates; Torch; Power back-up; Reusable insulated water bottle.
Nearby places of interest
Generally, no one does only Gurudongmar Lake. Typically, travellers combine it with a North Sikkim Tour including a number of interesting places (see below) around. They are all wonderful places in their own right. In fact, when roads are not good for Lachen, people visit Lachung- Yumthang circuit alone.
- Lachen (9,000 feet): A lovely hamlet that serves as the gateway to Gurudongmar Lake.
- Thangu Valley (13,500 feet): About 30 kms away from Lachen, Thangu Valley is famous for its spectacular landscapes.
- Chopta Valley (13,200 feet): 36 kms away from Lachen, not far from Thangu, the valley is a paradise for flower lovers.
- Kala Patthar (14,850 feet): Popular as a snow view point, near Chopta Valley.
- Lachung (9,600 feet): Gateway to Yumthang Valley and Zero Point.
- Yumthang Valley (11,693 feet): 23 kms from Lachung, it’s a valley of flowers, much like Chopta Valley.
- Zero Point (15,300 feet): About 51 kms from Lachung, ahead of Yumthang, it’s a snow view point.
- Mount Katao (15,000 feet): About 28 kms from Lachung on a separate route, it’s another snow view point. Unlike Zero Point, this place is less crowded and gives more peaceful vibes.
Conclusion
High altitude alpine lakes like Gurudongmar and Pangong are always once-in-a-lifetime experience. Apart from the awe-inspiring landscapes, the spiritual experience is special. Lachen to Gurudongmar was a more difficult trip than Leh to Pangong. Because the uncertainty and road conditions are a level higher in case of the former.
Once I came back from these places, I felt like I’m a different person. There are subtle changes in the way I think of travel and life in general. If health permits, I would suggest everyone to visit these lakes once in life.
And if you are actually planning the trip, I would be happy to share more information. So, do reach out.
Jayvanti Einjen
Nice
stampedmoments
Thank you! 🙂