Where small cells of a prison whisper the stories of freedom fighters and gentle waves of the Bay of Bengal kiss the shores, a city refuses to lie low. From a negative identity of ‘Kala Pani‘ to its new identity as the gateway to the emerald islands of the Andaman and Nicobar, Port Blair (new name: Sri Vijaya Puram) has been steadily making a name for itself as a wonderful travel destination. I still cherish the memories of the three days we spent in Port Blair in Andaman. This article is the story of that trip with tips for someone who is planning their own trip to the island.
Of the 836 small and large islands in Andaman and Nicobar arhipelago, only 31 are inhabited. Officially, about 30- 36 islands are open to tourists. However, only 9-10 of them are actively developing tourism facilities. The most popular islands in the Andamans are Port Blair, Ross, Havelock, Neil, Baratang, Diglipur and Rangat.
Quite interestingly, Port Blair is much farther from India than many east Asian countries like Thailand, Myanmar and Indonesia! Owing to its distance from the mainland, Port Blair and other islands in Andaman remained oblivious to the tourism industry in India for a long time. It was only after Time Magazine listed Radhanagar Beach as Asia’s best beach in 2004, tourism in the archipelago started flourishing. However, tourism is heavily restricted in the region especially to protect the indigenous people and the coral reefs.
{To read about more beach cities, check out: Vishakhapatnam Beach City ||| Phuket}
Port Blair in Andaman: Gateway to the archipelago
Interesting history of Port Blair in Andaman:
For over two thousand years, indigenous people have been living in the archipelago. However, not much interaction has happened between them and the mainstream civilizations across the sea. Though the Cholas, an ancient Indian kingdom used the islands enroute to the east Asian countries, they never settled there. Denmark was the first European power to reach there.
After much friction among European and Asian powers in the 18th- 19th centuries, it finally came under British India in 1868. Later, it was here, on 23rd January, 1943, Netaji Subhash Bose had unfurled Indian Flag for the first time. When India finally got its independence from the British in 1947, as a natural succession, India got control over the archipelago.
Decades later, when commercial flights started operating to Port Blair in 1970, common people started visiting the islands. However, real tourism has started peaking up only in the last two decades.
Port Blair, gateway to the Andaman and Nicobar archipelago:
Geographically, the archipelago is divided into two major regions- Andaman group to the north and Nicobar group to the south. Interestingly, all the 36 islands open for tourists are in the Andaman group. Because the government has restricted all tourist movement in Nicobar to preserve its ecology, especially the coral reefs, and also to protect its indigenous people.
Since Port Blair is the only airport and major port in Andaman, it’s often called the gateway to the Andamans. Whether one plans themselves or takes tourist package, one has to land in Port Blair. Typically, visitors spend a day or two in port Blair before proceeding to other islands like Havelock and Neil.
Memories of the Best Places in Port Blair, Andaman
It was our year-end trip of 2023. After visiting Vadodara for Christmas, we headed to Port Blair in Andaman for a 6- day trip: 3 days in Port Blair, 2 days in Havelock and 1 day in Neil Island.
As we took a morning flight from Hyderabad to Port Blair, we were absolutely excited at the prospects of witnessing India’s most beautiful beaches spread across several islands. A little before 9 AM, our flight landed in Port Blair. Just before we landed, the view of the emerald islands spread across the archipelago gave an amazing start to our trip.
We spent two days in Port Blair before heading to Havelock and Neil islands. While coming back, we spent another day here. In this article, I’m sharing the memories of visiting the best places in Port Blair in Andaman.
{To know about our experience of the other islands in Andaman, check out: Havelock ||| Neil Island}
1. Cellular Jail:
After India’s first war of independence in 1857, British authorities planned for strict confinement of freedom fighters. Taking inspiration from the theory of ‘Panopticon‘ and architectural concept of ‘Pennsylvania System‘, the authorities built a massive jail in Port Blair in Andaman in 1905-06, thousands of miles from mainland India.
The jail had 698 solitary cells- small 13′ * 7′ in size, divided into seven rows connected to a central central watch tower. The officers could keep an eye on the inmates all the time without the prisoners knowing it. Owing to its remoteness and the strict horrible living conditions, the jail came to be known as ‘Kala Pani‘ (Dark Waters).
It was such a horror to live in the jail that prisoners often resorted to hunger strikes. After the last hunger strike in 1937, the prison had to be closed by the authorities in 1938. Now, it’s a heritage site and a museum for hundreds of visitors everyday. {To know more about the jail, here’s a nice article: Cellular Jail}
What we saw and felt:
Since this was our first stop and had heard lots of things about it, we spent quite a long time at the prison exploring its sections. Hearing or reading about the prison was one thing, but actually witnessing it was quite another. Among the things that struck me intensely were the small solitary cells, the hang-till-death chamber, and the hard work the prisoners were subjected to perform.
Committing a crime and facing a punishment for that is understandable. But opposing a repressive colonial power demanding freedom and being punished for that is not quite comprehensible. However, this is the way the real world is!
Can you imagine the plight of the prisoners! So far from their homes without any chance of meeting their dear ones and living in a tiny chamber even without talking to an inmate! To be honest, one could actually die of loneliness and despair.
The architecture of the prison looks beautiful, especially from the central tower. The view of the sea and surrounding area from top of the prison was amazing. But alas, the prisoners never saw it!
Before it was dark, we headed to the Munda Pahad Beach or Chidiya Tapu sunset point.
{Note: If you have time in the evening, you may come back for a Light-and-sound show in the jail campus}
2. Munda Pahad Beach/ Chidiya Tapu:
It was about 4 PM, when we reached Munda Pahad area, about 30 kms from the main town Port Blair in Andaman. It has two lovely places to explore- Munda Pahad hiking to reach a cliff and Chidiya Tapu sunset point. The hiking takes one through dense forest with more than two hundred species of birds. Though we didn’t have the time to hike, we headed straight to the sunset point.
In about 45 minutes, the sun slowly went down behind the hills on the far side of the sea. As the sunset happened, the sky wore a lovely orange and gold shed across the horizon. The beach was not that crowded and thus, really enjoyable.
3. Corbyn’s Cove Beach:
About 5-6 kms away from the main town, Corbyn’s Cove is where Port Blair’s nearest beach is. After coming back from Chidiya Tapu, we headed there to spend the evening. With coconut groves lining one side of the crescent- shaped shoreline, the beach looks perfectly photogenic.
In the evening, the vibes was quite nice- cool breeze, just enough lighting, street food and clean sitting areas. Getting some peanuts for ourselves, we took a stroll on the beach from one end to the other. They have constructed a nice walk way some 50 meters into the sea. Walking to the end point and taking pictures was fun.
Though the beach is generally safe for swimming, a part of it is too deep and designated for water sports. Plus, one section of the beach is rocky. So, be careful in choosing where to swim.
4. Wandoor Beach:
Next morning, we were originally planning to visit the Ross Island (Netaji Subhash Bose Island). But due to high tides and strong winds, the ferry service was not operating that day. So, we had to look for a new destination. With a little research and asking around, we decided to visit Wandoor- the beach and villages in the area, about 30 kms away on the west side of Port Blair in Andaman.
When we reached Wandoor Beach, we were all alone there, not a single other tourist! What an amazing feeling! It’s a pristine beach- clean, peaceful and spectacular. However, one cannot swim at the beach due to its crocodile- infested waters. In any case, we weren’t looking for swimming. We walked around, had coconut water, sat down on its white sand beach.
Our auto driver was from Wandoor area. So, on request, he agreed to take us to his village area. With large areas under mangrove forests, the villages looked like set within forests. These mangrove forest actually provide the villages a much- needed refuge from the oceanic cyclones.
Walking around the villages was an unforgettable experience. I loved chitchatting with a few villagers hanging around with no worries in life (seemed like!).
5. Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park:
There is another reason why people visit Wandoor though. It’s the Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park off the coast of Wandoor. Spanning an area of 281.5 sq kms, this marine National Park protects endangered marine wildlife, especially coral reefs and sea turtles.
6. Marina Park | Coastal Road (Marine Drive) | Flag Point:
We spent some of the most memorable hours of our Andaman trip at the Marina Park and the adjacent coastal road. It’s a newly developed waterfront promenade with public amenities, children’s park and street food zone. It’s an enjoyable place any time of the day. During the day time, one can have a clear view of the Ross Island and enjoy water sports. In the evening, the whole places comes alive under lights. Visitors head here with their children, savour street food and enjoy sitting down facing the sea.
- Marina Park: A beautiful park by the waterfront.
- Rajiv Gandhi Water Sports Complex: If you love water sports, you must visit this complex for jet skiing, banana rides, glass bottom boat rides or parasailing.
- Marine Drive: One of the most spectacular seaside promenades anywhere in India. From Marina Park on one end to the Flag Point on another, this 1.5 kms road, popularly known as Marine Drive, is absolutely lovable.
- Flag Point: This is where Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose hoisted Indian flag for the first time. Today, it’s a memorial site with seats for public gathering.
New Year Celebration at Marine Drive:
Our last day in the Andamans happened to be the last day of the year. Earlier in the day, we came back from Neil Island. In the evening, we first headed to Corbyn’s Cove to check out New Year’s celebrations. Unfortunately, there was not much happening there. So, we came back and headed to Marina Park and Marine Drive. Yes, the real action was there.
A Food Festival near Marina Park, music and dance performances at Marine Drive and the general buzz at Flag Point made the atmosphere much enjoyable. Later at midnight, they organized a spectacular fireworks show to welcome the New Year 2024. That was a wonderful way to wind up our Port Blair/ Andaman trip.
Now, I must mention two places we couldn’t visit, but you should. We couldn’t visit these islands because of adverse weather conditions during that time. However, we would have loved to visit; maybe next time!
7. Subhash Chandra Bose Island/ Ross Island:
Though the Cellular Jail was on Port Blair main island, it was managed by the British from another smaller island- Ross Island (new name: Subhash Chandra Bose Island), just 3 kms away. A 15 minute ferry ride takes one to this erstwhile headquarters of the British to administer the Andamans. Ferries depart regularly from Aberdeen jetty/ Rajiv Gandhi Sports Complex from 8.30 AM to 2.30 PM.
One can witness the remnants of a church, a hospital, and other official buildings consumed by the nature again. Since the island is uninhabited now, wild animals (especially deer) roam freely everywhere.
8. North Bay Island:
Only about 3 kms from Port Blair, North Bay Island is one of the most visited islands as a day- trip option from Port Blair. In fact, generally visitors cover both Ross Island and North Bay Island on the same day. This island is popular for its marine life, water sports and adventure activities like scuba diving and snorkeling. Besides, it’s a good idea to hike up to the old lighthouse, an important landmark of the island. It offers an amazing panoramic view of the sea and nearby islands.
Travel Tips/ Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Best time to visit Port Blair in Andaman:
- Since Port Blair in Andaman is a tropical travel destination, monsoons paly an important role in deciding the timing of your trip.
- Starting autumn (October) through so-called winter and till about the end of spring season (March), Port Blair offers pleasant weather. Plus, Port Blair’s most vibrant festival- Island Tourism Festival (ITF) is also organized in December. As I mentioned, we loved how New Year was celebrated in Port Blair. So, plan your time sometime during this period.
- As it rains a lot and sea conditions are adverse during June to September, it’s good to avoid travelling during these months.
How to reach Port Blair in Andaman:
- Flight: Since it’s a far-off island, taking a flight is the best option. There are regular direct flights to port Blair from Delhi, Kolkata, Hyderabad, Bengaluru, Vishakhapatnam and Chennai.
- Ship: If you want to experience maritime adventure, you may choose to take a ship. Ships to Port Blair in Andaman depart from Chennai, Visakhapatnam and Kolkata 3-4 times a month.
Where to stay in Port Blair in Andaman:
- Good areas to stay: Aberdeen Market (city center), Marina Park, Phoenix Bay/ Haddo (harbour area)
- Some budget hotel suggestions: Andaman Shores ||| Heaven Stay ||| Jiya Residency ||| Seven Petals ||| Palm Grove Eco Resort ||| The Hook bnb ||| Hotel Magpie ||| Le Luminous Homestay.
How to get around in Port Blair in Andaman:
Though Port Blair is a small island, it’s not small enough to walk around. One can rent a bike or cab to see around the island. For a budget family option, auto-rickshaws are a good choice. Though local buses run between destinations, they are few and far between.
What/ Where to eat in Port Blair in Andaman:
Lazeez Rooftop Restaurant (Lobster Masala) ||| Mavi Rooftop Lounge (Grilled Tiger Prawns) ||| The Buzzing Bee (Harbour view) ||| HoneyComb Restaurant (family- friendly) ||| Ophelia Bistro (Wood-fired pizza) ||| Sea Food Delights (sea view) ||| Amaya (upmarket, lively) ||| Ruchi Restaurant (local flavours) ||| Happy Belly’s Mehfil (pure vegetarian) ||| TSG Bella Bay (floating cruise).
Concluding Thoughts
While planning the Andaman trip, I had assumed Port Blair to be a gateway destination only (before proceeding to Havelock and Neil). However, at the end of the trip, I realized that Port Blair actually offered the most wholesome experience in Andaman. We visited two beaches, explored villages, heritage sites and enjoyed cultural events.
While Havelock and Neil islands are mostly about beaches, Port Blair offers much more. On top of the places to visit, it has a nice cosmo-culture too. Its inhabitants have come from various parts of India and Bangladesh. Thus, Port Blair offers varied culinary experiences- from Bengali cuisine to south India food and modern cafes as well. People are warm and enjoy a laid back lifestyle. So, when you plan for a trip to Port Blair, keep some time to explore villages around the island.
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