A memorable evening walk
It was not yet monsoon, so rains were just light-touch. Chunks of clouds were wandering through the sky. I can hardly forget the sight of the sun slowly setting over the lake Pichola (in the lake city Udaipur) making the old buildings lining the lake turn orange. When it was getting dark, suddenly millions of bats came out of nowhere and spread across the darkish sky for a while, and then disappeared. Bhajans and sound of musical instruments coming out of the temples were filling the air with creative energy. The lights coming out of the hotels and houses by the lake dispelled the darkness gradually. And mesmerized by all that was happening around us, we kept walking around the steps of Gangaur Ghat.
I have lots of such cherished memories of the lake city Udaipur from our two years spent there, and a number of visits before and after that period. But this particular evening comes up as the most memorable one. I’ll share a few more such lovely memories in this article.
For more experiences from Rajasthan, check out: Gagron Fort || Jaisalmer || Pink City Rickshaw Co.
Udaipur: then and now
Established in 1559 by Maharana Udai Singh-II, the city was meant to be the capital city of the erstwhile Mewar kingdom. Though it’s more than 450 years past, the city still looks very much a kingdom with Rajput architecture sprinkled all over the city.
However, today it’s mainly a tourist city and a destination of high-profile weddings. It got global reputation after the shooting of a James Bond movie- Octopussy in 1983. Scores of Indian and international movies have been shot here since then.
In 2009, lake city Udaipur was voted the best city in the world in the Travel + Leisure magazine. It boasts of some of the best and luxurious hotels in the world. The Oberoi Udaivilas was ranked no.1 hotel in the world in 2015. And it’s not alone; Taj Lake Palace and Leela Palace are also among the best of best. But interestingly, Udaipur also has no dearth of budget hotels and hostels.
Charm of the lake city Udaipur
If Nainital is a city of seven hills and a lake, Udaipur is a city of seven lakes and many hills of the Aravalli range. The serene blue lakes surrounded by blue hills prompt me to call it the blue city, but there’s Jodhpur- the original blue city of India! So, let’s stick to the adage- lake city Udaipur.
Among the seven lakes of Udaipur, three are in the city- lake Pichola, Fateh Sagar lake, and Swaroop Sagar lake; and four in the vicinity- Udai Sagar lake, Badi lake, Chhoti Madar lake and Badi Madar lake. Apart from these big lakes, there are quite a few smaller lakes in and around lake city Udaipur.
My experience over the years:
I first visited Udaipur in 2007 with a group of friends when I studied in Ahmedabad. In fact a good friend- Kapil is from the city; we enjoyed his hospitality immensely. The next visit after a couple of years was with my cousin, Jayant. And then of course, Parina moved to the city for a couple of years for work. That was the time when I used to visit Udaipur on weekends from Delhi; and we explored each and every corner of the city.
The lake city Udaipur is so many things to so many people. For some, it’s the magnificent palaces, or the opulent hotels, and for many others, it’s the beautiful lakes. However, for me it is the subtle ambiance that Udaipur is. It’s like a beautiful poem, a feeling, an old-world charm that fills my heart with joy, things that one doesn’t generally associate with cities.
The only other similar experience I remember was in Venice or Florence. No wonder then that people call it as Venice of the East, though they are very different in their cityscapes. Personally speaking, there are so many memorable experiences from the lake city Udaipur that it’s difficult to pick a few. But let me share the ones very close to my heart.
Sunsets in the lake city Udaipur
I’m really fond of sunsets. Be it my regular evening walks at the lake of Hauz Khas Village, or at my travel destinations, I always crave for more. At most of the places I travel, I look for the best sunset points so as to make the evening beautiful. Lake city Udaipur has the best sunset views, be it over Fateh Sagar lake or lake Pichola or at the Monsoon Palace in Sajjangarh.
Sunset at Fateh Sagar lake:
During the two years that Parina lived here, I used to visit the lake city Udaipur during weekends. And Fateh Sagar lake was our favorite evening destination. Though one can enjoy a beautiful sunset at various places in Udaipur, Fateh Sagar Pal is perhaps the best location.
At one side of the lake front, it offers a long walk on the waterside. We used to love to take a stroll by the lake with our favorite beverage in hand, watching the sun set behind the Aravallis.
The other side of the lake front has a street market, mainly lined with food/ beverage shops. People throng the market in the evening. Once we took a boat ride in the lake; and also spent some time in a park on the Nehru Island in the lake. The park is such a lovely place to hang out!
At one end of the market, lies the gate to Maharana Pratap memorial on a small hill called Moti Magri/ Pearl Hill. From the memorial, it offers a panoramic view of Fateh Sagar lake. Maharana Pratap’s statue stands tall as one of the bravest Rajput Kings of Rajasthan.
Sunset at lake Pichola:
Lake Pichola is at the heart of the old city, and the center of all cultural experiences. As narrated in the first paragraph, we spent some of our best evenings enjoying the sunset at the Gangaur Ghat near Bagore ki Haveli. From any hotel/ building lining the lake Pichola, one can see the lake palace sitting beautifully in the lake surrounded by layers of purple hills.
However, at lake Pichola, it’s the boat ride around the lake enjoying the view of all the magnificent palaces and old buildings surrounding the lake is the biggest attraction. We have taken a boat ride there during sunset many a times. On one such evening, Maa and Lina joined us for the boat ride.
Looking at the City Palace (picture below) from the lake reminds me of Venice. During sunset, the white and off-white buildings turn orange; to add to the aura, the palace/ hotels switch on their lights gradually as it gets dark. What an experience!
Moreover, it’s not only the City Palace; most of the buildings lining lake Pichola look wonderful, many of which have been transformed into grand hotels and restaurants.
In fact, most of Udaipur’s best hotels are visible during this boat ride- Taj Fateh Prakash Palace, Taj Lake Palace (in the lake), Leela Palace, Oberoi Udaivilas, Shiv Niwas Palace and more.
Jagmandir island palace is also within the lake Pichola, and the boat takes one very near to the palace. After it’s dark, Jagmandir palace looks like a magical fascinating place. One may choose to have a dream evening at one of the restaurants of the palace in the evening (we could afford only once!)
Sunset at Sajjangarh palace:
Sajjangarh palace, or the Monsoon palace was built in 1884 by Maharana Sajjan Singh over a hill overseeing the Fateh Sagar lake; at about 8 kms from the lake city Udaipur.
Watching the sunset over the layers of mountains surrounding Sajjangarh Palace is an equally exhilarating experience. I always felt that lake city Udaipur is made for the most beautiful evenings, throughout the year, but especially during the monsoons. Because monsoon clouds ensure magical sunset skies.
Walking around the old city Udaipur
Old city Udaipur is located around area covering Doodh Talai lake (near boat ride point of lake Pichola), the City palace, Jagdish temple and Gangaur Ghat. This is where the real Udaipur is. If you exclude the lakes, what remains of the soul of Udaipur is this area. This is where you will see all the old Havelis (buildings), all the luxurious hotels, and the backpackers’ hostels, and the bustling market places. Foreigners know well where to stay and eat; so, you will find all of them flock this area.
An interesting feature of old cities in western India is the construction of a number of gates to enter the city. In Rajasthan, they are called Pol; there are seven major such gates in Udaipur: Surajpole, Chandpole, Udiapole, Hathipole, Ambapole, Brahmpole, Delhi Gate, and Kishanpole. While moving around in the old city side, I loved the lovely graffiti art on old buildings (like the one below).
The main market for tourists in Udaipur is at Hathipol; it’s absolutely fascinating to explore the two streets of Hathipol, whether you shop anything or not. If you are interested in shopping though, souvenir shops are aplenty; trinkets, wooden toys, leather footwear, cotton bags/ accessories are some good options.
Most of the nice cafe and restaurants also in this part of the city. We especially loved having our coffee at some of the cafes by the lake Pichola.
Gangaur Ghat and Bagore Ki Haveli:
Within the precincts of the old city lies my favorite place of the lake city Udaipur- Gangaur Ghat by the lake Pichola. There are steps to sit leisurely appreciating the beauty of the old city. It always felt nice to feed the hundreds of pigeons waiting for us. A small bridge connects to the other side of the old city; diagonally opposite is the Ambrai Ghat.
Bagore Ki Haveli, an eighteenth century palace adds to the charm of the place. It’s now a museum displaying old costumes and modern art.
Bike ride around Fateh sagar lake
Another amazing experience in the lake city Udaipur is our numerous bike rides around Fateh Sagar lake during monsoon. Surrounded by beautiful lush green mountains of the Aravalli range, the lake fills up to its potential and comes into life during the monsoon. With gorgeous green trees flanking the roads, and lovely blue waters of the lake running by one side, a bike ride around the lake after the rains was always refreshing.
The road takes one towards the Sajjangarh palace. It’s mostly forested with small tea shops and eateries here and there on the way. On a typical weekend day, we would take this bike ride; stop over multiple times at tea shops and eateries, and come back only by the evening to enjoy a sunset at Fateh Sagar Pal.
On the way, stopping over at the Shilpgram, an artisans’ marketplace, designed like a traditional village in a forest setting to showcase their craft works, is a great idea.
We visited Shilpgram during non-festive times; so, there were not many tourists. So, we could peacefully interact with the artisans coming from various parts of the country. The wooden toys and the marble decorative pieces we bought from there are still adorning our living room.
If you are there in December (21st to 31st), see if the Shilpgram Festival is ongoing. Actually, it’s better to visit during the festival because a lot more artisans come during that time than off-season.
The magnificent City Palace
Many of my visits to the magnificent City Palace of Udaipur has left me awe-struck each time. In 1553, when Maharana Udai Singh-II decided to shift his capital from Chittor to Udaipur, he started building this palace. It took over 400 years to complete with contribution from many of his successors!
The first time I entered the City Palace, I thought the entry fee was too much, but when I was inside, that thought had vanished. It’s worth spending time looking at the awe inspiring architecture (a combination of Rajput and Mughal styles) and the beautiful interior designs. The view of the Lake Palace in lake Pichola from the City Palace reminds me of childhood fairytales. Besides, the City Palace Museum (within the palace itself) is a must-visit; it houses wonderful artefacts of that era.
Udaipur World Music Festival
Udaipur World Music Festival is a great addition to the Udaipur experience in recent times. Popular national and international bands/ musicians participate in the event. The festival is staged mainly at two places- at the Gandhi Maidan in the evening and at the Fateh sagar lake during the day. It’s amazing both in the day and evening. They have quite different vibes.
We have enjoyed great music with a view of the lake in day time, and a party atmosphere with rock music in the evening. Covid pandemic has stopped the festival for two years now, but I’m sure, they will revive it next year. If you are planning for Udaipur, look for their dates in February; here is the link to their official site.
Some other cultural experiences
Rajasthan in general is a potpourri of cultural experiences; and Udaipur is no difference. Artisans of Udaipur are known for their marble work, paintings, silver craft and terracotta products. While staying in Udaipur we loved to experience the local dance forms like Kalbeliya, Kachhi Ghodi, Bhavai and Ghoomar.
Apart from the Shilpgram festival in December, two other local festivals are very interesting- Gangaur festival in March/April, and Jagannath Rath Yatra in June/ July.
Situated near the City Palace, the 17th century- Jagdish temple is the most popular temple in the lake city Udaipur. Opening hours: 4.15 AM- 1.00 PM; 5.15 PM to 8.00 PM. It’s a nice place to visit in the evening.
Just in the vicinity of the city, there is an old temple- Eklingji temple. On the same route, there is another architectural gem- the Saas-Bahu temple. We visited these places once on a day-trip.
One underrated architectural wonder is the Ahar cenotaph, actually a group of memorials for the royals. All the wonderful monuments built side by side, and packed in a small area make for a fascinating sight.
10 must-do things in the lake city Udaipur
I. Spending time with nature
- Sunset and evening walk by the Fateh sagar lake
- Plus, a boat ride to Nehru garden inside the lake
- And, a hike to the Maharana Pratap Memorial from the lake road itself
- Boat ride in lake Pichola at sunset
- With a visit to the Jagmandir palace situated on an island in the lake
- Watch sunset at Monsoon palace, Sajjangarh
- Visit the Bahubali hills near the city (outskirts)
II. Historical/ cultural experience
- A visit to the City Palace
- Plus, the nearby Jagdish temple
- Take a bike ride around Fateh sagar lake and visit Shilpgram
- Leisurely walk at Bagore ki Haveli, Gangaur ghat and Ambrai ghat
- Visit the vintage car collection
- Ahar cenotaphs; cremation ground of 19 Maharajas of Udaipur
- Saas-Bahu temple and Eklingji temple (outskirts)
Day trips from the lake city Udaipur
Lake city Udaipur has great day-trip options like forts, temples and lakes. Important ones are:
- Kumbhalgarh; fort with the famous Great Wall of India; 85 kms from Udaipur (north)
- Ranakpur; a magnificent Jain temple dedicated to the Lord Rishabhanath; 95 kms north of Udaipur
- Shrinathji temple (Nathdwara); a legendary Hindu temple; 45 kms (north) from Udaipur (We have done Kumbhalgarh- Ranakpur- Shrinathji in a day; but it’s a bit hectic)
- Chittorgarh; a UNESCO World Heritage site, 120 kms away (north) from Udaipur
- Jaisamand lake; a lovely lake, 60 kms south of Udaipur
- Besides, Mount Abu is not far either (160 kms). Some tourists do visit Mount Abu from here; but difficult in a day.
Lake City Udaipur: Travel Tips
Best time to visit:
- Pleasant weather: Autumn beginning in October through the winter and spring till March, Udaipur remains pleasant. Winter day time temperatures hover around 25 degree C, and night time low remains around 8 degree C. So, it’s not too cold during the winters. We really enjoyed our time in the winters.
- Summer months (Apr-Aug) are really hot with temperatures ranging 40-45 degree C.
- However, within the summer months, when it rains during the monsoon (July- Aug), Udaipur becomes a lovely place.
- Udaipur World Music Festival is organized in February; so, it’s perhaps the best time to visit.
How to reach:
- Udaipur has a domestic airport; 30 kms away from the main city
- Udaipur has a railway station as well; there are daily overnight trains from New Delhi
Moving around:
- Auto-rickshaws are good options for budget conscious travellers to move around in Udaipur
- One can rent motorbikes at reasonable rent
- One can walk around the old city part- Gangaur ghat and Ambrai ghat area; especially lovely in the evening. We loved listening to the local musicians performing at the Gangaur Ghat.
Where to stay:
- Some good budget hotel options (between Rs. 1500- Rs. 3000): Udaigarh Udaipur | Hotel Udai Median | Jaiwana Haveli | Kotra Haveli | Mewar Haveli.
- Some good Hostels: Mantra | Zostel | Keekoo | Moustache
Where to eat:
I. Street food places:
- Fateh sagar lake side “Bombay Market- Udaipur” | Sukhadia circle | Chetak circle
II. Popular Cafes:
- Cafe Boho by lake Pichola | Cafe Edelweiss (German Cafe, Gangaur Ghat) | Jheel Ginger Coffee Bar (Gangaur Ghat)
III. Fine dine:
- Jagat Niwas | Natraj (authentic Rajasthani thali) | Ambrai (lake side) | Upre by 1559 AD (lake side) | The Tribute (lake side) | Khamma Ghani | Charcoal.
A note to conclude...
Lake city Udaipur is definitely among my top five places in India. First, it gives me the feeling of a city with rich heritage. And then it is so beautiful with lakes and mountains all around that every day is a joy. Moreover, it’s a city that I can never get bored of. Though I have been fortunate to live in and experience the city for a long time, I would love to go back at the first opportunity.
In this article, I have shared my most cherished memories of the lake city Udaipur with a hope that you will pick up clues to prioritize your times as a tourist. If you need more clues on Udaipur, do write to me; I will be happy to help out.
Pallab Kumar Dutta
An excellent elaboration. A clear and realistic picture of Udaipur got flashed through this write up. This will definitely help the new tourists to Udaipur.
stampedmoments
Thanks a lot, Pallab ji. We are happy you liked the article.
Please keep connected.
Jayvanti Einjen
I also have some great memories of Udaipur. Really love the place.
stampedmoments
Hmmm…I remember those walks by the lakes in Udaipur.
Thank you!
Jayvanti Einjen
Beautiful memories nice experience with both of you.
Good, keep it up
stampedmoments
Thanks a lot, as always for the encouragement.
Soumen Chatterjee
Frankly speaking I stated my career from udaipur and stayed there for almost 3.5 years. It’s a nostalgia for me. After completing my office work I along with my colleagues use to visit fathe Sagar Lake and use to have pao bhaji. May that be lake pichola or gangur ghat, or saggangarh fort, beautiful handicraft items at shilp garm , udaipur even had chowki dhani where we use to eat authentic Rajasthani food. And finally city place has its own charm and beautiful architecture.
Just relived my memories
stampedmoments
I didn’t know that you started your career in Udaipur!
So, you must have amazing memories of the city.
It’s perhaps one of the most livable cities in India.
Thanks a lot.
Jitendra Mallick
Thanks for the info, your guidance has been immensely helpful for my small trip to Udaipur
stampedmoments
We are glad that it was helpful; that’s the main purpose of this site.
Keep checking out, and keep connected.
Kreative Kabir
Umda expression.
Udaipur is indeed a smooth destination to share your time with authentic vibes of beautiful old architecture, lakes and temples. I keep visiting Udaipur from time to time and ai prefer staying at hostels.
Last month, I stayed at Hostel Mama for 10days and view of pichhola lake is pleasing from the rooftop cafe Shore to Spoon. I spent good time at Ambrai ghat, simply sitting there and observing Udaipur life. Practicing Yog under the peepal tree at the ghat with sounds of bhajans playing in a temple in background was absolutely blissful.
Keep sharing your anubjav dada
stampedmoments
Hey Rajendra!
Thanks for reading, and sharing your experiences of Udaipur.
It’s such a charming place, and one of my all time favorites.