If you ask me a common term for tranquility, serenity and heritage, I would say- ‘Landour’. Tucked in a corner of Mussoorie, one of my favorite hill stations, Landour is a serene place frozen in time. A little hamlet with old houses from India’s colonial era, surrounded by lush greenery, it exudes a calmness that is soothing to the soul. Away from the cacophony of main town of Mussoorie, Landour is a paradise for discerning travellers. In spite of its tininess, it boasts of a rich heritage, and quite a number of interesting places to explore.
While writing my previous article on the best places in Mussoorie to visit, I realized that Landour is too good to be covered in a paragraph or two! It won’t do justice to the wonderful place that Landour is. So, I decided to write this article separately.
{If you love peaceful mountain destinations, do check out: Kasar Devi (Uttarakhand) ||| Tirthan Valley (Himachal)}
I have visited Landour during my Mussoorie trips quite a few times over the years. The most cherished moment from my first visit was witnessing the unique sunset from Lal Tibba. Though I loved the Landour vibes immediately, there was not much day light to enjoy the place. So, on my next trip, I kept enough time to explore the nooks and corners of the quaint little place.
{To read about my first few experiences of Landour and Mussoorie, check out: Mussoorie, a special place}
Colonial Past:
Along with the Shooting Lodge on Camel’s Back Road, Landour was among the first areas to develop in Mussoorie. In fact the first permanent building- Mullingar was built in Landour in 1825 by Captain Frederick Young, the ‘discoverer’ of Landour and Mussoorie. Set up on a little hill, it served as the summer house for Captain Young, who otherwise lived in Dehradun.
In those days, the British established Landour as a Cantonment with a Sanatorium (Army Hospital). Situated in the eastern corner of Landour, the original sanatorium is now part of the Institute of Technology Management. Among the many old buildings from that era, two prominent churches stand out: two protestant churches- St. Paul’s Church and Kellogg Memorial Church.
In those days, the British kept Landour quite guarded from the Indian affluent class. Though they allowed Maharajas to build mansions in/ around Mussoorie, they kept Landour only for their use. Hence, even today, Landour looks more British than Mussoorie!
{For similar British era hill stations, do read: Kodaikanal (Tamil Nadu) ||| Shimla (Himachal)}
Landour's Old World Charm
Even after independence in 1947, new commercial constructions have not been allowed in Landour. So, more than Mussoorie, Landour looks still hanging in the past. From Landour Bazar to Sister Bazar, the markets, residences and even the roads have a peculiar rustic, old world charm. It appeals to the discerning travellers.
Hustle and bustle in the serenity and tranquillity:
Not that you don’t see people in Landour. In peak tourist season, one comes across hundreds of tourists traversing through its lanes all the time. However, the hustle and bustle has a peculiar sense of tranquillity as well. The serenity of the place emanates from the winding narrow roads set in a rich flora of pine, oaks and deodars. Ferns trying to overrule the old trees is a fascinating sight all over the hills. Old buildings are sprinkled through the landscape as if they belong to the nature itself!
The few hundred households who still live in Landour maintain a lovable sleepy lifestyle. I saw more local monkeys than local people in Landour! It felt like time has just stopped here, nothing seems to change! From my first visit in July 2010 to my latest in July 2025, I have hardly seen anything new.
Mall Road (Mussoorie) to Landour: A pleasurable ride
Now let me take you on a tour of Landour from Mussoorie. From around 6500 ft in Mussoorie, to ~7500 ft in Landour, a gain in altitude of 1000 meter happens in a matter of about 3 kilometers! So, the road is steep, and also narrow. Since the road is narrow, often cars are stuck in the traffic, while bikes find their way up easily. Hence, it’s a good idea to take a bike ride from Mussoorie to Landour, and not drive. To be honest, one can even walk. The views and the historic sites on the way make it a pleasant hike. However, not everyone is fit enough to hike on a steep path!
It will take good part of a day to explore all the places in Landour. Hence, have your brunch, and start the journey around mid-day. Though the route is only about 2 to 3 kilometers, there are quite a number of nice places to stop over and explore at slow pace.
Riding from the Mall Road (Kulri Bazar Chowk) in Mussoorie, within 1 kilometer, one reaches the fringes of Landour, just a few hundred meters before the Landour Clock Tower. From many places in Mussoorie, especially the Camel’s Back Road, one can see the Landour Clock Tower prominently jutting out of the cityscape in the skyline. So, this tower is the first landmark in the area.
Landour Clock Tower:
Built in 1938, Landour Clock Tower (or, Ghanta-ghar) is indeed a major landmark in Mussoorie. In 2010, considering its fragile structure, the authorities demolished it for public safety. However, the tower was so popular among the people in Landour and Mussoorie that a public demand paved way for re-building of the tower in 2016. However, now it looks different from the original one (see below). I wonder, why would they do so? If they wanted, they could have easily made it look exactly the same as before! (If you have any idea, do let me know)
Beside the new-looking clock tower, stands an old building that houses the Mussoorie Heritage Center and an antique shop. Though the Heritage Center is quite small, it exhibits some authentic history of Landour and Mussoorie. However, the display of artefacts (also for sale) could be better, I felt.
Mullingar Hill:
The market beside the tower is popularly known as Landour Bazaar. Its old buildings lining the narrow road takes one through the by-lanes of history. On the other side of the bazaar is Mullingar Complex/ Hill, the first building built in Landour. Now, the area is home to Tibetan settlers. From a view point nearby, one can have a panoramic view of the Mullingar Hill with a Buddhist stupa at the center.
View point near Doma’s Inn:
A little ahead of Landour Bazaar, one comes to a square where the Mall Road ends, and the Tehri Road begins. Taking a left turn, and a sharp ascent, one comes to a wonderful viewpoint, just before Doma’s Inn. Though large vehicles would find it difficult to park, bikes can easily park there and have look around.
On the left side, one has a view of the Mullingar complex, and on the right side, Mussoorie town. We have enjoyed the view both in the winter and the monsoon times. But I loved the monsoon view more; just see in the picture below how Mussoorie looks magical under the clouds.
Doma’s Inn:
A sharp right turn and a steep ascent later, one reaches the popular Doma’s Inn Cafe. The exterior of the cafe is so colouful and beautiful that one cannot but stop over for a picture. It serves really good Tibetan food, and the interiors are quite pretty too.
There in the vicinity resides the famous author- Ruskin Bond. Walking up the steps to his residence felt like a pilgrimage to me. But please don’t go too close, or create any disturbance there; let’s respect his privacy.
The core area of Landour starts from Char Dukan. From Char Dukan to Lal Tibba to Sister Bazar and back to Char Dukan, it’s a sand-trickle shaped (imagine the number- 8; see pictures below) landscape (check the map and the diagram below). The whole area is an enjoyable walk among the pine and deodar forests. I love stopping over at the colonial era buildings on the way.
Char Dukan:
Perhaps the most popular place in Landour is Char Dukan (meaning four shops) where you can have some good snacks and tea at one of those eateries that has been there for decades! Maybe only 2 shops have been added to the place over a hundred years! So, literally, it’s Chhe Dukan (six shops) now! In front of the shops, that tree looks perfectly photogenic. From Char Dukan, the road diverges. While one goes towards Lal Tibba, the other goes towards Sister Bazaar.
St. Paul’s Church:
Just beside the shops, one cannot but notice a cute little church- St. Paul’s church, established way back in 1839-40! In 1840, Bishop Daniel Wilson of Calcutta consecrated the church. The Anglican (protestant) church was used by the British nationals living in Landour. Though the exteriors look old, the interiors have been restored, and restored well. The portraits and stories on stained glasses inside the church look beautiful.
Kellogg Memorial Church:
From St. Paul’s Church, heading towards Sister Bazaar, one first reaches the Kellogg Memorial Church. Built in 1903 in Gothic Revival architectural style, this protestant church is a major landmark in Landour. Sitting at the intersection of the roads coming from Char Dukan and Lal Tibba, the church looks majestic.
Unlike the other churches in Mussoorie, this church in Landour was built by the Americans. The church is named after an American missionary- Dr. Samuel H. Kellogg. Interestingly, the church also houses the Landour Language School, where the Britishers used to learn Hindi.
From here, one has to park their vehicle and walk towards Sisters Bazar. Though they used to allow vehicles earlier, now they stop all vehicles at the church in order to curb traffic jams. I think it’s definitely a good move. Besides, the walk is really enjoyable.
Sisters Bazar:
Taking a right turn from the Kellogg Memorial Church, in a few hundred meters’ walk, you will reach the Sisters Bazaar. On the way, you will notice two heritage hotels- La Villa Bethany and Bothwell Cottage. On reaching Sisters Bazaar, one would be surprised by its tranquillity in spite of scores of tourists walking around. Named after the sisters (nurses) who worked at a British Military Hospital nearby, this quaint little place is where the old world meets the modern times.
Much like the rest of Landour, but unlike a typical bazaar (market), it has very few shops, and a relaxed residential atmosphere with old bungalows flanking vintage streets. Walking around Sisters Bazaar is a lovely experience.
You may ask for its popular landmark- Prakash’s Store, who sells homemade cheese, peanut butter, jams, etc. I got a few nice postcards from there as well. Though the store is rather small, we visited for its vintage value. Talking to Mr. Prakash (actually their family surname) at the store, I got to know that he is the third generation for this store. Beyond Prakash’s Store, there are only private houses. Not far from the store, do look for Landour Bakehouse.
Landour Bakehouse:
In recent times, the café has become so popular that it’s almost like a tourist destination itself! Once inside, you won’t believe it’s only a 5-year old cafe! It’s designed like the old British era cafes. I loved its classy, wooden interiors with meaningful posters and a cute book shelf. Sample some posters: “We don’t have wifi; talk to each other; pretend it’s 1895”, “Even though life stands still, the future is coming”.
Inspired by the famous “Landour Cookbook“, it offers a nice variety of cakes, cookies, croissants, pasta, pizza, sandwiches, tea and coffee. Originally written by Mrs. Lukas and Mrs. Parker in 1920s, the book compiled the amalgamation of British, American and Indian (hills) cooking recipes. In recent times, a new book by Ruskin Bond and Ganesh Saili has become popular too. So, with a charming view of the beautiful deodars from the window, have a cup of your favorite tea or coffee leisurely.
Cafe Ivy:
On your way back, take the other way to the Kellogg Memorial Church. In a few minutes, on your left, you will see Devdar Woods Hotel, which also houses the Cafe Ivy. One of the best cafes in Landour (and Mussoorie), and beautifully curated too, Ivy café was a pleasant surprise for me. In fact, I thought it has better ambiance and food than Landour Bakehouse. Under thick clouds and among tall pine trees, the cafe looked absolutely appealing.
Lal Tibba:
Less than a kilometer uphill from the Kellogg Memorial Church is Lal Tibba, the highest point in Mussoorie at 7464 feet. It’s popular for watching the famous Mussoorie sunset, especially in the winters, which is called the “Winter Line”. Special because, as per many reports, it happens only at a few places in the world, e.g. some Himalayan towns in north India including Mussoorie, and the Swiss Alps. Just look at the picture of the sunset below. The orange hue doesn’t cover the entire sky as is generally observed elsewhere, rather it makes an orange line in the horizon. Such a fascinating view!
With this, your tour of Landour is complete. On your way back, choose a nice restaurant/ cafe (see list below) for a nice dinner to wind up a wonderful day.
Landour, Mussoorie: Travel Tips
Best time to visit:
Most will say, summer is the best time to visit Landour in Mussoorie for pleasant weather. But I’ll say it’s the monsoon months of July to September. I can’t imagine Landour without clouds and mist. However, if you want to see the most beautiful ‘Winter-Line’ sunset, winter is the best time. So, choose your time accordingly.
How to reach:
Basically, to reach Landour, one has to reach Mussoorie.
- By flight: The nearest airport is Jolly Grant Airport, Dehradun, 60 kms away.
- By train: The nearest railway station is in Dehradun, 35 kms away. From the station, one may take a taxi, shared taxi, or a local bus to Mussoorie.
- By road: One can reach Dehradun by luxury buses from Delhi. From there, take a taxi, shared-taxi, or local bus to reach Mussoorie.
Where to stay:
Budget accommodation: There are only a few budget stay options in Landour proper; so, it’s good to look for a property in Mussoorie. Here are a few to budget hotel suggestions in Mussoorie:
- Mango Tree Courtyard ||| Crystal Palace ||| Hotel Phoenix ||| Himalayan Club ||| Hotel Paradise Mansion ||| Shiva Continental ||| Savoy Residency ||| Hotel Skylark.
- Hostels: goStops ||| The Hosteller ||| Shalom Backpackers ||| Zostel.
How to get around:
Riding a bike is the best way to explore Landour. But if you can, walking/ hiking is equally wonderful. I would suggest, one should avoid car, if one can, especially because of the narrow roads.
Where to eat:
Best cafes/ restaurants: Cafe Ivy ||| Landour Bakehouse ||| Doma’s Inn ||| Emily’s Mussoorie (by Rokeby) ||| The Charleville Bookstore ||| Paprika Restro Cafe ||| Eateries at Char Dukan.
Concluding Thoughts
I love Landour so much that I can spend weeks at length, without even stepping out of it. It has a charm, a magic of its own, quite unique. I have visited Landour many a times over the years, but from Mussorie only. Next time, I would love to stay in or close to Landour so that I can spend the whole time soaking in its peaceful vibes. I can imagine how wonderful waking up one day in a serene environment of Landour!
If you are planning to visit Landour as part of your Mussoorie trip, I would suggest keeping good part of a day for the visit. I promise, you would thank me later. Wanna know more? Please don’t hesitate reaching out to us.
Vinod Parkkot
Thank you for giving a most vivid description of Landour. Going by what is written a minimum of three days is required to enjoy the place
stampedmoments
Yes, it’s a lovely place one can enjoy for a week!
At least, a day.
Thanks a lot for the feedback.
Keep in touch.
Arun Kulkarni
I visited the town/place in 1975, 1976, 1977 and 1978 particularly the Ial Tibba. You forgot to mention the views from Lal Tibba i.e. mountain ranges viewing i.e. Shree Badrinath and the Indo-China border (the Tibet). Five friends of us tracked down from the Lal Tibba for 3-4 Kms. to reach a very small village, where a small dhabha/shop cum, which served as a post office, grossery shop, hotel,etc for the tiny village. It suddenly started raining heavily and hail storm for three hours. It became very cold. We were hungry, tired and shivering. The shop owner prepared food (roti and fresh chicken curry) and also provided a bottle of whiskey and charged Rs.65/- + Rs.35/- for the whiskey. A memorable trip of my life. This was in 1976.
stampedmoments
Wow! 1976! I was not even born then.
Thanks a lot for sharing your memories. I guess Landour was not much different then, maybe except for the new cafes.
Yes, I forgot to mention about the views from Lal Tibba.
Maybe next time, I’ll try to trek down the same path from Lal Tibba, and explore that village you went to.
Please keep in touch.
Parina Einjen
I also enjoyed the last trip to Landour so much! Fond memories:)
stampedmoments
Yup! Let’s go again! 🙂