If I say, Angkor Wat is the most extraordinary temple that I have ever visited, it will just be a cliche. How can one describe Angkor Wat in words? Quite impossible! Indeed, the magnificent 12th century Hindu temple is just beyond words. In the pantheon of temple architectures, Angkor Wat holds the undisputed numero-uno position. It’s so massive in size, and at the same time, so intricate in design that its construction still remains shrouded in mystery. The other day, I watched a documentary- “Ancient Aliens” that discusses the possibility of it being constructed by aliens in the distant past. Whatever it is, our Angkor Wat tour in Cambodia was an experience of a lifetime.
I don’t think except for the Egyptian Pyramids, there’s any man-made structure that is comparable. When I saw it for the first time, for the first fifteen minutes or so, it completely overwhelmed my senses. Even ‘awe-inspiring’ is an understatement!
For a long time, this has been on my travel bucket list. So, striking it off the list last October was nothing short of an achievement. However, more than the sense of achievement, it was the sheer joy of witnessing one of the greatest work of architecture in human history that excited me to the hilt. Here’s a narration of our experience, and a few tips to experience it the best way.
{If you love temple architecture, check out: Bhubaneswar (Odisha) ||| Rameswaram (Tamil Nadu)}
The enormity of Angkor Wat
Angkor, once the largest city in the world with a population of about a million at its peak, was a jewel of the east. Over a period of over 600 years between 9th and 15th century, various Kings of the Khmer empire built a stunning city with spectacular monuments. Angkor Wat held a pride of place among those glittering jewels of the empire. The ruins of these monuments still adorn the skyline of Angkor today.
The enormity of Angkor Wat needs to be seen to be believed. Spread over a campus of 16,26,000 sq. mts, Angkor Wat is the world’s largest religious structure. Built in 1150 AD by the Khmer King Suryavarman-II, the main temple stands tall at 65 meters (213 feet). However, it’s not only the Angkor Wat, there are hundreds of other gigantic temples all around the historic city of Angkor. Today, they are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site: Angkor Archeological Park, spread across 400 sq. kms., about 9 kms north of the Cambodian city of Siem Reap.
Interesting history of Angkor Wat:
In the 14th century, when Khmer empire fell apart, Angkor Wat went into oblivion and forests ate away the monuments. Henry Mouhot, a French adventurer rediscovered Angkor Wat in 1840, and it got renovated in course of time. Along with the UNESCO, and many other governments, Indian Government has been playing an important role in Angkor Wat’s revival. Read more: India’s contribution to revival of Angkor Wat.
Agkor Wat, literally meaning City (Angkor) of Temples (Wat) in Khmer sounds apt. However, originally it was known as “Vrah Vishnuloka” or “Parama Vishnuloka“, the abode of Lord Vishnu, a Hindu God. Because it was a Hindu temple to start with. But later when King Jayavarman-VII accepted Buddhism, he converted Angkor Wat into a Buddhist temple. To know more about its history and architecture, here’s a good read: Historical context of Angkor.
Comparison with other great Hindu temples:
Being from India, I have visited some of the most architecture-rich Hindu temples like Khajuraho (Madhya Pradesh), Brihadisvara (Tamil Nadu), Jagannath (Odisha) and many more. But none quite like Angkor Wat. Ranganathaswamy temple in Tamil Nadu, India’s largest Hindu temple, comes as a distant second (6,31,000 sq mts). Please note that I’m talking of old temples only, and not the new ones like the Akshardham temples.
In terms of the sheer workmanship, the Kailasa temple in Ellora, Maharashtra will perhaps win. Though much smaller in size, Kailasa temple, a monolith (carved from a single rock), is an absolute architectural wonder. Moreover, it was at least 500 years older too!
However, some Hindu/ Buddhist temples outside of India come close to the grandeur of Angkor temples. For example, the temples of Prambanan (Indonesia) and Ayutthaya (Thailand).
Exploring the Angkor Archeological Park
Angkor Archeological Park is so large that one needs at least a week to explore the temples well. However, for convenience of travel planning, the temples are divided into four major groups:
- Little Circuit: Angkor Wat | Angkor Thom (Bayon; Baphuon; and more) | Ta Prohm | Banteay Kdei
- Big Circuit: Preah Khan | Neak Pean | Ta Som | East Mebon | Pre Rup. Interestingly, Banteay Kdei temple is at the intersection of the little and the big circuit. So, whichever way one takes, they will come across this temple on the way.
- Roluos Group: Bakong | Lolei | Preah Ko
- Distant Temples: Banteay Srey | Kbal Spean | Beng Mealea | Phnom Krom.
Most travellers keep two days; one day for the little circuit, and another for the big circuit. However, a third day allows one to explore the temples slowly. If one has more days, they may venture into the other two groups. For convenience, here’s (below) Angkor Wat Tour guide map. The red circuit is the little one, and green circuit is the big one.
Our Angkor Wat Tour in October
After exploring the Cambodian capital city of Phnom Penh, we headed to our most anticipated destination- Siem Reap. Taking a private bus from Phnom Penh in the afternoon, we reached Siem Reap in the evening. Since the homestay was on the outskirts of the city, we couldn’t venture out that night.
Next morning, we took a bike to visit Siem Reap Old Town. We were so excited to see Angkor Wat that we couldn’t resist the temptation to have the first view that day. So, after visiting the old town, we rode up to the south gate of Angkor Wat and took a sneak peek at the great temple from a long distance. From across a large moat, we could only see the gate of Angkor Wat. But that was enough to throw us into a state of bewilderment. If the gate looks so amazing, how wonderful the main temple would be, I thought to myself.
That day in the afternoon, Sunly (our driver) came to pick us up for visiting the beautiful Tonle Sap lake. Evening was for exploring Siem Reap’s nightlife. But the real action was coming up the next morning- the Angkor Wat Tour.
Our Angkor Wat Tour Plan:
- Day-1: Visit the Angkor Wat area, a kind of recce-visit before the actual tour of Angkor Wat the next day
- Day-2: Explore the short circuit of three main temples. Angkor Wat | Bayon | Ta Prohm
- Day-3: Go around the bigger circuit, see as many temples as possible.
Day-2: Angkor Wat Tour and the Little Circuit
As planned, Sunly came to pick us from our homestay in the wee hours of the morning ~4.30 AM. Because the idea was to witness the sunrise at Angkor Wat. In fact, it’s the most popular time for Angkor Wat tour. Though not a morning person, it was one of those rare occasions when I wouldn’t mind waking up early to witness the sunrise.
Entry at Angkor Wat:
After a 30-minute ride, we reached the west gate of Angkor Wat ~5.00 AM. When we reached there, hundreds of tourists had already gathered there, and were entering the premises. In spite of the large numbers, the entry process was quick because of the online pass. Since the premise is huge, it took quite a walk to reach the main entry-gate to the temple.
After a bit of bargaining, we got a good tour guide to show us around. In hindsight, it was a good decision. As expected, he first took us to the sunrise point. Crossing the moat over a culvert, we reached the main entry gate. Inside the main temple premise, there are two large water bodies in front of the temple, on each side where everyone gathers to witness the sunrise.
The surreal sunrise:
We were really happy that we could reach the sunrise point on time. In fact, we had to wait about 15 minutes for the sunrise. When we reached there, a big crowd had already gathered, and there was quite a buzz around in anticipation of the sunrise.
And then it happened. Though it was a bit subdued, the sun rising from behind the Angkor Wat temple was quite an amazing sight, and photogenic too. The guide kept explaining the history, mythology and anecdotes about the great temple. After the sunrise, it was time to enter the main temple building.
Angkor Wat main temple tour:
Angkor Wat main temple is three layered. First level is a bit above the ground level with walking corridors. The second level offers a close view of the gigantic temple towers. And the third level has the deities.
As one enters, on both sides, there are extensive corridors exhibiting wall reliefs depicting stories from Hindu epics- Ramayana and Mahabharata. The details of the exquisite sculptures were as impressive as the grandeur of the architecture. It was truly mind blowing.
At the end of the corridor, one enters the second level. A steep climb of stairs from the second level takes one to the third level. And a steeper climb of stairs leads one to the third and the top level, where one can see the Buddha statues, which had replaced the Hindu Gods long time back. The 360 degree panoramic view of the area from the top was amazing. And then it was time for the descent.
We came out of the temple while slowly exploring each of its interesting corners. It took us around 3 hours to complete our Angkor Wat temple tour. Sunly was waiting for us. We had a quick breakfast, and proceeded to explore the other important temples in the little circuit. First, temples in Angkor Thom area, about 2 kms away, and then Ta Prohm temple, a little far.
Angkor Thom:
A few decades later than Angkor Wat, towards the end of 12th century, King Jayavarman-VII built Angkor Thom, a new capital city. It was to the south of Yashodharapura, the old capital and to the north of Angkor Wat. Surrounded by a moat, Angkor Thom was a walled city spread across 9 sq. kms with five entry gates.
Among the major monuments of Angkor Thom are a Royal Palace (no longer exists), Bayon temple, Baphuon temple, and a few other temples. In the middle of the city, there is a large Royal square around which all the major temples lie. So, one can walk around these monuments.
Bayon Temple:
Bayon, the state temple of Jayavarman-VII, was at the heart of Angkor Thom. All roads led to this grand monument. After the gigantic towers of Angkor Wat, the iconic stone faces of Bayon are the most recognizable symbols of Angkor. They look mysterious and fascinating, and their design mind boggling. Much like Angkor Wat, Bayon was originally a Hindu temple, but later turned to Buddhism.
The temple has 54 towers with four large stone faces on each of them, adding up to 216 of them. Besides, these stone faces also adorned the five entry-gates of the walled city. Though it’s not sure who these faces belonged to (Buddha or the King?), they definitely look stunning. The central tower, the most impressive of them all, was originally painted in gold. Just imagine how it would look in those days!
When I first looked at it, the temple seemed like crumbling down. But on entering its premises, the structure seemed still holding strong. I hope they keep standing as long as they can.
Baphuon Temple:
Once we were done with Bayon temple, about a hundred meters walk took us to another gem- the Baphuon temple. Though within the precincts of Angkor Thom, Baphuon predates (mid-11th century; Suryavarman-I) Angkor Thom itself. Quite similar to the other Angkor temples, this started as a Shiva temple, and later converted into a Theravada Buddhist temple.
Standing 50 meters tall, it looks like a gigantic pyramid from a distance. The raised approach way with the temple at one end resembles an impressive movie set! The 9 meter high, 70 meter long reclining Buddha statue at the temple is unique and truly grand.
Just outside the Baphuon temple campus lie the terrace of the Elephants and the terrace of the Leper King. On the opposite side of this terrace are numerous impressive temples in a line, though not so popular among tourists.
Ta Prohm:
We reached the Ta Prohm temple about mid-day amidst sweltering heat. However, the whole temple premises, completely engulfed by a thick forest provided a cool environment. We had to walk past more than a hundred meters among a thick canopy to reach the main shrine. Giant trees wrapping the temple structures like a python does with its prey looked fascinating. Just have a look (below) at the tree popular as the ‘Crocodile Tree’ below to see how interesting it looks!
After the Angkor Wat, this is perhaps the most popular temple from Angkor, mainly because of the Angelina Jolie starrer Hollywood movie- ‘Lara Croft: Tomb Raider’. So much so that the temple is now popular as the ‘Tomb Raider Temple’ or ‘Angelina Jolie Temple’!!!
Built in 1186 AD, this is another gem from the king Jayavarman- VII. Originally known as ‘Raja-vihara‘ (meaning the Royal Monastery), Ta Prohm was among the few temples in Angkor which was dedicated to Mahayana Buddhism from the beginning. If you know whether it later converted to Hinduism, do let me know. As per inscriptions, the temple premises was so enormous that it required 80,000 people for its maintenance!
After wandering around the ruins of Ta Prohm for over an hour, we were too exhausted to continue further. Some notable temples that we couldn’t visit are: Ta Keo, Sras Srang, Prasat Kravan.
Day-3: Angkor Big Circuit
After an overwhelming tour of Angkor Wat on the second day, we planned for a relatively peaceful third day. There are quite a number of temples in the big circuit. But next morning, we decided to explore five of them: Preah Khan, Neak Pean, East Mebon, Pre Rup and Banteay Kdei. The ones we missed out: Krol Ko, Ta Som, Neak Leang.
Preah Khan:
Much like Ta Prohm, Preah Khan is deep inside a forest. Besides, much like the entrance to Angkor Thom, one has to walk over a culvert and a similar gate to enter its premises. However, unlike Ta Prohm, Preah Khan was dedicated to Hinduism (Lord Vishnu). But it later converted into Buddhism. If Jayavarman- VII built Ta Prohm in honour of his mother, he built Preah Khan in 1191 in honour of his father.
The walk through the long narrow corridor straight through the middle of the numerous temples was very interesting. Numerous beautiful statues, details on the walls, and decorated pillars added to the grandeur of the temple. We witnessed a Shiva Lingam in one of the shrines, and many other Hindu along with Buddhist elements all around.
Neak Pean:
The second stop for us of day-3 was Neak Pean, a Buddhist temple. On an artificial circular island in a lake, Neak Pean was a refreshingly different. Crossing the lake over a 200-meter causeway, we reached the temple deep inside a forest. But to be honest, it didn’t really look like a temple.
They say that Jayavarman- VII built this for medicinal purposes following ancient Hindu practices. There was a relatively small temple in the middle of a pond. The walk around the pond was enjoyable. A sign on the pathway indicated a trail towards an ancient water management system which we couldn’t witness.
East Mebon, Pre Rup and Bantey Kdei:
Since we were running short of time to reach the airport, while driving back towards Siem Reap, we stopped over for a short while at East Mebon, Pre Rup and Banteay Kdei.
- East Mebon: Built by King Rajendravarman in 952 AD, it was dedicated to Hindu God Shiva
- Pre Rup: Another Hindu temple from the time of Rajendravarman (established: 961 AD)
- Banteay Kdei: A Buddhist temple from King Jayavarman- VII’s time (mid 12th- 13th C. AD).
Angkor Wat Tour: Travel Tips
Best time to visit:
Being a tropical country, it becomes too hot and humid during the summer/ monsoon seasons- April to September months. So, October to March has relatively good weather. However, November to February are the best months for Angkor Wat tour.
A suggested itinerary:
If only Angkor Wat/ the little circuit is in mind, one day is good enough. But if along with Angkor Wat tour, you want to explore all the major temples, you need at least three days. We could cover the major temples, old town, and the Tonle Sap lake in three days. If you have some more days, Siem Reap/ Angkor Wat will not disappoint you.
Beyond the Angkor Wat tour, one should keep some time for one/ more of the following:
- Tonle Sap lake tour, about 25 kms from Siem Reap. Though the floating village at the lake is the main attraction, do take a boat ride deep inside the lake to enjoy a gorgeous sunset
- A day tri to Kulen mountain and some heritage sites around is another great option
- For shopping, Siem Reap old town is a great place. Plus, the Pub Street becomes a happening place at night
- Have an experience of Apsara dance. (Suggestions: Alliance cafe || Apsara Terrace || Apsara Theater || La Norio Hotel).
How to reach:
The nearest airport is in Siem Reap (the airport is about 45 kms away from the city). If you are already in Phnom Penh, the Cambodian capital, one may take a bus or taxi.
How to get around:
Without a doubt, tuktuks are the most popular method for taking Angkor Wat tour. However, some people do take bicycles and bikes to explore the area at slow pace. But I felt, since it’s very hot/ humid out there, cycling is a bit difficult. Sunly, our driver friend from Siem Reap is a nice person; he is professional, and caring. If you want, here’s him contact: +855-718601067.
Where to stay:
Siem Reap is a cute little town. Since tourism is quite developed there, it has great accommodation options at good price. Here are a few budget accommodation suggestions: People By the Community || Bunwin Siem Reap || Onederz hostel || Lub d Cambodia || Siem Reap Pub hostel || Mad Monkey || White Rabbit hostel.
We stayed in a home-stay (Realkhom) in the outskirts of the city. In spite of the commutation issues, it was nice to stay with a local family and learn about their culture. Additionally, the host (Mr. Chheng Chhy) helped us with planning and logistics. One of his relatives, who has a tuktuk, showed us around Siem Reap over the next three days.
Where to eat:
Most of the good restaurants and cafes in Siem Reap are around the Pub Street, Old town. Some good suggestions: Wild || Haven || The Christa || Pinakpou || Bugs cafe || Mango Cuisine || Amara Dining.
Much to our liking, we found a number of Indian restaurants there as well. Not that we don’t like other foods, but it’s always great to have an Indian comfort-food when we wanted. For your reference, here are a few good ones: Lotus Dosa Corner || Natraj Indian Restaurant || Urban Tree Hut || Travancore || Curry Wala.
Concluding Notes
Not only from tourism point of view, but Angkor Wat is at the heart and soul of Cambodian cultural identity. So much so that Angkor Wat gets its pride of place in the Cambodian flag! Do you know of another such example?
Angkor Wat is like no other place, its grandeur is unparalleled in the world. So, it’s no surprise that people call it the eighth wonder of the modern world. However, I can’t quite comprehend how it is not in the first seven! In two- three days, we couldn’t explore it the way we would have liked. Hence, we would definitely like to go back another time, and live there about a month and slowly explore its nooks and corners.
Have you done the Angkor Wat tour already? If not, I hope this piece will inspire you, and help you plan your visit someday. If you want to know more, do write to us.
Leave a Reply