If Kerala is God’s own country, Alleppey (now called Alappuzha) is undoubtedly its capital. Kerala is so full of unique destinations that it’s not at all easy to pick one place as the must-go place. However, it’s also true that there’s no other place on earth quite like Alleppey. The serene Vembanad lake with floating houseboats, and crisscrossing canals lined with beautiful coconut trees make for a plot straight out of a painting. But not everyone knows how to experience it the best way. Because Alleppey is much beyond the houseboats. In this article, I take you through my experiences of the great backwaters of Alleppey and share tips on how to experience them the best way.
{If you are interested in more Kerala destinations, check out: 5 best places in south Kerala.}
Four different landscapes in four different directions of India fascinate me so much! Dry sand deserts of Jaisalmer in the west to bewildering mangrove forests of Sundarbans in the east. Awe inspiring cold deserts of Ladakh in the north to enchanting backwaters of Alleppey. This sums of the varied landscapes that India boasts of. They are so different from each other and so unique in their own rights!
However, in this article, I’m going to talk about the backwaters of Alleppey only.
Backwaters of Alleppey
If any landscape has ever fascinated me to the hilt, it is the Alleppey backwaters. It’s a magical labyrinth of intertwined network of canals, rivers and inland water channels connecting lakes and lagoons. Not for nothing people call it ‘Venice of the east’. The whole region of backwaters lined with coconut trees, quaint little villages and the succulent green paddy fields is a mesmerizing beauty! All types of floating boats only add to the charm of the landscape.
Vembanad lake:
The Vembanad lake is at the center of all socio-economic and cultural lives of people in Alleppey. It’s India’s longest (96.5 kms) and Kerala’s largest lake (230 sq. km.) spanning a number of districts of Kerala. People of different regions call it by different names: Kochi lake in the north, Vembanad lake in the center, and Punnamada lake in the south (including parts of Alleppey).
{Lake lover? Check out: Lake city Udaipur ||| Nainital}
Chinese fishing nets of Vembanad Lake:
Long time ago, in the 14th century, Chinese explorer Zheng He brought the knowledge of these nets to Kerala. And since then, Kerala coastline and the lakes have adorned them. In fact, I have seen their numbers increase by multiple times in the last decade.
When I first visited Cherthala, my friend’s home in 2007, there was only one of these nets in their village. But this time, after 16 years, I found tens of them in the lake, almost all households having one of their own! While it has raised sustainability issues, the lakefront has become more fascinating, nonetheless!
{Read a case of sustainable tourism from Alleppey: Community Based Tourism in Alleppey}
My love for this magical place
My two visits to Alleppey were 16 years apart, but both were in the monsoon. If my first visit in 2007 gave me a sneak peek into what Alleppey had to offer, the second visit this year (2023) was more fulfilling. First visit had more cultural experiences: my friend’s wedding and Onam celebrations to boot. This time, we explored more places- the beaches, temples, churches and villages.
Alleppey has so many things to offer that each time I have loved it even more. If Alleppey backwaters are unique, its cultural experience is also very different from anywhere else in India. Moreover, even after visiting twice, I feel like we haven’t explored Alleppey fully.
However, my love for Alleppey is not only because of its backwaters or culture only, a lot has to do with its people. Two of my best friends (Sujith and Sajith) and their families are there. They are some of the most wonderful human beings I have ever come across.
On my two visits, I have met a lot of people in their village and around. Everyone comes through as gems! The simplicity of their lives, the compassion they have for others, their hospitality and love for us, everything is so close to my heart!
How to experience the Alleppey Backwaters
No doubt, backwaters are the most sought after experience in Alleppey; but the question is how to experience it the best way. From a morning stroll by the Vembanad lake to taking a cruise around the lake, to enjoying the sunset, there are many ways one can have the best of times.
Here’s my account of how to experience Alleppey backwaters the best way.
Choosing your accommodation:
First thing to look for while planning to experience Alleppey backwaters is a nice place to stay.
Nowhere it’s more important to choose one’s accommodation more carefully than in Alleppey. Because the location of lodging means a lot. Do look for a resort or guesthouse (I would rather discourage a typical hotel) or homestay by the lake, or very close to the lake. This is especially because sunrises and sunsets by the lake are among the best experiences to have while in Alleppey. (look for tips below in ‘travel tips’ section)
{Lodging options can add a lot to one’s travel experience; read how: Lodging makes a difference}
At the dawn: Sunrise by the Vembanad lake
I’ve never been a morning person. But when in Alleppey, I make it a point to wake up early so as not to miss that serene sunrise. In fact, the tranquil day-break hour, just prior to the sunrise is really enjoyable. Sitting by the lake, I love the sight of fishermen slowly rowing in their small boats to check their catch in the Chinese nets put up in the lake. These Chinese nets (Cheenavala in Malayalam) lined up in the lake, look fascinating.
Walk around the village:
Having done with the sunrise, it’s time for a walk around the village. In fact, this is the best time to take the village tour. It’s still not too crowded, people just waking up, leisurely engaged in their morning chores, and getting ready for the day. I love chitchatting with whoever I find on the way.
It’s interesting to see people have their small boats parked in the small water channels in front of their houses like the urbanites park their cars! The colourful temples and churches around the villages look unique! Moreover, it’s reassuring to see different communities and religions live in harmony.
We have our friends’ homes in a village in Cherthala near Alleppey. So, we get an authentic first hand village experience. But if you want to experience the village life, choose a homestay in Kuttanad taluk near Alleppey.
Kuttanad region:
This taluk is famous for its unique landscape since it actually lies 2 meters below mean sea level! Kuttanad is actually a region comprising the districts of Alappuzha, Kottayam and Pathanamthitta. Because it’s below sea level, the farmers practice a unique farming technique- Biosaline Farming. It’s so unique that the FAO has declared it as a Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System (GIAHS).
Sajith told us that at some point of time in history, these villages were actually swamps and wetlands. The King filled them with earth to make room for cultivation by the local populace. It’s interesting to see the paddy fields still below water level in these areas.
Boating experience in the backwaters of Alleppey
After a soulful morning, it’s time for the main attraction of the day – experience a boat ride in the backwaters of Alleppey. But the question is how to experience it the best way.
If one goes by the pictures that catch the imagination of aspiring travellers, it’s tempting to think that houseboats are the only way to experience Alleppey backwaters. However, it cannot be any farther from truth! Houseboats are expensive and are designed to cater to the luxury tourism segment. One can easily have the similar experience for much less!
Here are all the types of boat ride experiences, from the expensive houseboats to the modest shikara boats, and more ways of experiencing the backwaters of Alleppey.
Houseboats:
Yes, houseboat (Kettuvallom in Malayalam) is the most fancy way to experience Alleppey. The big boats (60-70 ft long, 15 ft wide) floating leisurely around the backwaters have an imposing presence in the Alleppey backwaters.
They are proper houses inside, with bedroom, living room, kitchen, washroom and balconies. On an overnight cruise, they offer great authentic Kerala cuisine. Watching sunset and sunrise from the comfort of a bed or sofa is the kind of luxury people with money relish.
These boats can accommodate up to 150 people during day cruises, and 15- 25 people during overnight cruises.
- Pros: Comfortable | Some privacy | Good food | Overnight cruises available
- Cons: Expensive (Rs.10,000 onwards) | Cannot go in small canals | Cannot view the village life from the boat
Small shikara boats:
Inspired by the shikara boats of Srinagar in Kashmir, these colourful boats are light on the wallet and give almost the same experience as the expensive houseboats. They have a roof for shade that offers comfortable sofas/ couches to relax on.
In addition, they can go in the small canals around the villages giving a nice view of the way of the villagers. It gives a sneak peek into how their houses are built, how they grow vegetable around the small patches of land, etc. Another interesting sight is watching the fishermen with small circular boats in those canals.
They can carry up to 15 people, and are perhaps the most suitable way for families and groups to experience Alleppey backwaters on a budget trip. Most of these boats start from the Alleppey boat jetty.
- Pros: Easy on pocket (Rs. 1200 for 2 hrs) | Opportunity to view village life.
- Cons: Low on comfort | No food.
Motor Boats:
In between the luxury of the houseboats and the elegance of the shikaras are the motor boats. They are a good option for people who want a quick experience of the backwaters of Alleppey at a lower cost. These boats can pack up to 60 people and run fast in the waters.
- Pros: Costs not much (Rs. 750/ hr) | Can go in the canals
- Cons: Little comfort | Crowded feeling | Noisy (engine) | No food
Passenger Boats:
If you want to spend very little money and still have the experience of a boat ride in the backwaters, passenger boats are for you. Just ride the way locals do. These passenger boats meander through the canals from village to village. Just a few bucks, and you can take a seat enjoying the ride through the canals for an hour; better still: hop-on and hop-off wherever you like!
In a way, it’s a great way to have a chat with the locals and see first hand how they travel. Besides, they take you through the off-touristy places.
- Pros: Spend hardly any money | Great way to connect with locals
- Cons: May be uncomfortable and crowded
Canoe style country Boat:
If the above four options sound too touristy or uncomfortable for you, just go to the lake side or a village. You can invariably find someone who is willing to give you the experience of rowing in Alleppey backwaters in a country boat.
In fact, this has been my favorite way to experience the Alleppey backwaters. Of course, I’m fortunate to have a couple of best friends living just by the Vembanad lake. Sajith and his uncles have given me a rowing experience each time I have been there. It’s easy to use those oars to push the small canoes forward. But these boats are unstable. So, if you don’t know how to swim, you shouldn’t try it.
- Pros: Peaceful | Private experience | No cost
- Cons: Not suitable for people who don’t know swimming | Have to make an effort to find one.
Which boat to choose to experience Alleppey backwaters?
I wouldn’t say any of the above options to experience Alleppey backwaters is better than the other. Each type of boat has its pros and cons; have a look above.
Further, it all depends on how much money one has, and what kind of experience one finds more appealing. In my view, the perspective is more important than the medium. The backwaters, the lake and the views remain the same irrespective of the type of boat! Moreover, if you have the money, and the time, you may choose to experience them all!
In order to assess which one you might like more, have a look at the pictures (above) and assess the pros and cons of each one of them. For an in-depth understanding of the various types of boats in Alleppey, check out: Types of Kerala Boats.
How to choose the boat operator:
- It’s wise not to take the houseboats that the resorts/ hotels offer; they are typically costlier than outside
- As mentioned above, compare the prices of different types of boats, their prices and the kind of experience that appeals to you the most
- There are several tourist counters in Alleppey and Kumarakom. You can have a look at their rates, facilities, etc and bargain before booking
- I wouldn’t suggest any particular operator because they are all similar.
In the evening: Sunset by the lake
One of my favorite experiences in Alleppey is spending time by the lake in the evening. The sky changing colours to red and orange over a water body is ever so attractive! I fondly remember the evening Sujith invited me to sit by the lake under a small tree munching on the yummy pakodas. We kept chatting about our college days, and a little bit of present and future. My favorite ginger tea followed pakodas and we thoroughly enjoyed the evening by the lake.
Further, I love watching the fishermen going around in their small canoes to check for their catches. They check their Chinese deep nets twice in a day, once in the morning and once in the evening. The last time, Sajith’s uncle actually took me in his canoe to show me how they do it. It was so interesting!
While coming back from the lake, I loved watching families engaged in evening prayers with their oil lamps on. It’s an age-old practice of Hinduism that still continues in villages (not that they don’t do it in urban areas).
Beyond Alleppey Backwaters
Though the backwaters are the main draw in Alleppey, one can experience much more beyond them. From temples and churches to beaches, have a look at them.
Beaches:
There are a number of lovely beaches to experience in and around Alleppey, but the ones I would suggest are: Alappuzha beach (2 kms), Pozhiyoram beach (5 kms), Marari beach (14 kms) and Arthunkal beach (21 kms).
Main attractions at Alappuzha beach:
- A 135 years-old pier that extends into the sea, looks very fascinating
- An old lighthouse, a signature from the past
- A decommissioned ship installed on the beach
{Love beaches? Check out: Odisha beaches ||| Goa beaches}
On our way to Cherthala (Sajith’s village), we decided to visit the Arthunkal beach too. There were very few outside visitors on the beach, only locals lazing around. On this kind of tranquil beaches, one can witness unadulterated peaceful lives of the locals. A few kilometers from the Arthunkal beach is Arthunkal church, where we stopped over for half an hour.
Kumarakom:
At 35 kms (1 hr drive), across the Vembanad lake, Kumarakom is another serene location for lake-side resorts. It actually falls in Kottayam district. One can have similar experience of backwaters in Kumarakom as well; but fewer options than proper Alleppey town. Visiting the Kumarakom bird sanctuary is a good option.
Popular temples/ churches:
Kerala is known for its religious harmony; the three major religions- Hinduism Christianity and Islam. Alleppey boasts of some beautiful temples and churches; find time to explore some of them. Most popular ones are: Arthunkul Church | Ambalappuzha Sri Krishna temple | Nagaraja temple | Latin Catholic church | Florence Forance church | St. Mary’s church | Karumadikuttan shrine (Buddha statue).
Bird-watching:
For avid bird watchers, there are two great options: Patheeramanal island and Kumarakom bird sanctuary. One can watch 50-100 varieties of migratory and local birds there.
Miscellaneous other interesting things to explore:
- International Coir Museum (8 kms)
- Krishnapuram Palace (50 kms)
- Kerala spa and ayurveda (plethora of options to choose from)
- Watch a Kalaripayattu performance
- If you are there in August, don’t forget to experience the famous Snake Boat Race in Alleppey backwaters
- For shopping lovers: Floating Triveni | Alappuzha Zakariya market | Mullakkal street
- Visit the Elephant Training Camp
- Go for kayaking in the backwaters.
Alleppey Backwaters: Travel Tips
Best time to visit:
- For pleasant weather: November to February (winter); though temperatures don’t vary too much through out the year!
- For enjoying the monsoon: July to September (movement may be affected by rains though)
- For cultural experience: August, during Onam, Kerala’s major festival and Snake Boat Race time.
How to reach:
- Nearest airport: Cochin (state capital), 50 kms away
- Well connected by railway from major cities of India
- Regular bus services from major cities of Kerala and Tamil Nadu
Where to stay:
- Places to look for: Punnamada area | Kuttanad area | Kumarakom area | Cherthala area
- Some budget hotels/ resorts: Lake Garden Resort | Kondai Lip Backwater | Bamboo Lagoon Backwater
- Hostels/ guesthouses: Lemon Dew | The Bucket List Alleppey | Zostel Alleppey | Bamboo Hut Budget Room (Airbnb) | Alleppey Backwater Homestay | Blue Lilly Lake Home | For more options, check out: 15 best budget places.
How to move around:
- Taxis are costly in Alleppey, and in Kerala in general
- Auto-rickshaws are better for budget conscious travellers
- Local buses are frequent and cheap too
- Motor boats are cheap too; one should prefer whenever feasible.
Where / what to eat:
- Must try: (Apart from regular south Indian Dosa, Idli, etc); Puttu and Kadala | Idiyappam | Ela Ada (sweet) | Thalassery Biryani | Malabar Fish Curry | Karimeen Fry | Mutton Paya Masala
- Where: Thaff Restaurant | Dreamers Café and Restaurant | Nelpura | Cassia | BayRoute Bistro | Chakara Restaurant | Hotel Smitha | Hassan’s Family Restaurant | Hotel Brothers.
Concluding thoughts
I hope this article was a bit helpful to you deciding on how to experience the Alleppey backwaters the best way. As I said above, Alleppey is not all about backwaters; there are many more things to see and experience. Have at least 3-4 days to experience a bit of everything, especially the cultural aspect, and enjoy your trip.
Sitting by the Vembanad lake one morning, I thought to myself, “What a beautiful place! What a peaceful life! Why am I not quitting my full time job, and living a non-eventful life by lake! How lovely it would be to take a piece of land and grow vegetable there!”.
However, then reality struck! Land is absolute premium there. High population density, ever increasing demand for tourism and overall economic prosperity have made land prices soar sky-high. Anyway, these were thoughts only. Whether you live there or not, staying a few days can be blissful, nonetheless.
Soumen Chatterjee
I now came to know why Kerala is called God’s own Country. It’s the gorgeous city which is called is the ‘Mecca’ for the backwaters. The Vembanad lake is at the center of all socio-economic and cultural lives of people in Alleppey as mentioned in your blog. It’s great to know that the lake is India’s longest and Kerala’s largest lake spanning several districts of Kerala. The fisherman’s picture captured at Vembanad Lake is mesmerizing. Walking round the villages after watching the sunrise, has a lot of things to observe special related to the sociocultural activities that take place around the villages.
The farmers of the Kuttanad region, the farmers practice a unique farming technique- Biosaline Farming. It’s so unique that the FAO has declared it as a Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System.
Here the main point is to enjoy all the types of boat ride experiences, from the expensive houseboats to the modest shikara boats, and more ways of experiencing the backwaters of Alleppey. May that be shikara, expensive houseboats, passenger boats, or motor boats all have different charms, which is depicted and the readers can choose boats as per their convenience and expenses. The process of choosing the right boat ride is clearly explained.
Watching the sunset must have been a terrific experience and fascinating.
There are several lovely beaches to experience in and around Alleppey and the suggested beaches in the blogs are fantastic. there are a lot of churches and it’s beautiful.
Overall it’s a fantastic blog
stampedmoments
Good to hear from you after long, Soumen!
Your comments are such a value-add always!
Thank you 🙂
Shrusti Mohanty
Lovely, this one captures so much detail about local life, very nicely done!
stampedmoments
I just love life in general in Kerala, and the cultural panorama in particular.
Thanks a lot Shrusti, for your feedback. Cheers!
Roncito
Very helpful, thank you!
stampedmoments
So happy that you found it useful.
Thanks a lot; keep connected.
Oli
Your story makes me want to make my bags and visit beautiful Kerala. Its one of our favourite places in India.
Love your photos too!
stampedmoments
Absolutely Oli! Kerala is one of its kind.
You will find everything a traveller loves.
Thank you so much for sharing your feedback!