North Sikkim Tour: My most exciting experience ever

From a Rhododendron Sanctuary to serpentine rivers, spectacular snow peaks, lush green meadows and gorgeous alpine lakes, North Sikkim is a wonderful destination for nature lovers. However, its remoteness and adverse weather conditions mean very few people actually reach there. After a number of failed attempts, at last, I completed my North Sikkim Tour including Gurudongmar Lake last April.

Though it was an absolutely challenging trip, the experience is unforgettable. Here’s the story of my North Sikkim Tour, my most exciting experience ever. Reliving the memories of that trip while writing this article is going to be an enjoyable experience.

Although Gurudongmar Lake was my principal destination, the trip was made all the more enjoyable because of Lachung, Yumthang Valley, Zero Point and Lachen. I arrived in Gangtok (click to know the best places) late night and next morning, took a shared taxi to North Sikkim for a three-day tour. Those three days were so unpredictable that every hour was a shot in the dark. Hence, apart from the awe inspiring landscapes, this unpredictability itself made the trip absolutely exciting.

{For more destinations in Sikkim, do check out: Nathu La Pass ||| Yuksom}

North Sikkim Tour: Is it worth it?

Let’s start with the most common question people ask me – is it worth the effort taking up a North Sikkim Tour? Sometimes, I just smile and wish I could take them on a North Sikkim Tour in a flash! Such a wonderful region of India, and hardly anyone is aware of it.

Actually, the region is so much prone to natural disasters and adverse weather conditions that most of the time it’s difficult to visit. If it was easy to visit, North Sikkim would have been among the best hill stations in India. However, if one takes a bit of risk, North Sikkim can be one of the best offbeat and best winter destinations in India.

Places that make North Sikkim Tour worth it:

From difficulty point of view, the question is okay. Otherwise, North Sikkim is a hidden treasure in real sense of the term. A North Sikkim Tour encompasses two major valleys- Yumthang Valley and Chopta Valley. While Lachung is the base location for visiting Yumthang Valley and Zero Point, Lachen serves as the base location for Chopta Valley, Kala Patthar and Gurudongmar Lake.

Both Lachung and Lachen are beautiful little hamlets/ towns. Most part of the year, they remain peaceful except the few tourist months when they are abuzz with visitors. Yumthang Valley is popular for a large meadow by Yumthang (or, Lachung) River, and especially beautiful in the spring season for the Rhododendron flowers. Most people visit Lachen to visit the legendary high- altitude Gurudongmar Lake.

{For similar other destinations in India, check out: Spiti Valley in Winter (Himachal) ||| Leh- Ladakh}

My North Sikkim Tour in April 2025

On previous two occasions, I had attempted a North Sikkim Tour, especially to visit Gurudongmar Lake. But both the times, it was landslides that closed roads. So, this time, I didn’t take any chances and planned my North Sikkim Tour in early April.

The plan:

First Day: Delhi to Siliguri by flight. And then take a taxi to reach Gangtok.
Second Day: Drive from Gangtok to Lachen (~125 kms: 7-8 hours). Stay overnight.
Third Day: Visit Gurudongmar Lake (~65 kms) and proceed to Lachung (50 kms) in the afternoon.
Fourth Day: Explore Yumthang Valley and Zero Point before lunch. Late in the afternoon, drive back to Gangtok to reach late night
Fifth Day: Spend a day in Gangtok and leave for Delhi next morning.

However, man proposes, God disposes! Things took a different turn as I went on; sharing in detail below.

As per plan, on day zero, I flew from Delhi to reach Siliguri late in the afternoon. From there, I took a taxi to reach Gangtok late night. Next morning, I boarded a shared taxi for the North- Sikkim Tour.

Day-1: Gangtok to Lachung

I had booked a seat in the shared taxi through one of my driver friends from Gangtok. Since it was a solo-trip, hiring a taxi for myself would have been too costly! But luckily he helped me with getting a side-window seat in the middle row, perfect for photography and comfort.

So, as planned, next morning I reached Vajra taxi stand around 9.30 AM. This is where all the shared taxis start their North Sikkim Tour. It was a bit chaotic at the stand with tens of taxis leaving at the same time. Though I reached before time, the taxi actually came quite late. After waiting for more than an hour, we commenced our North Sikkim Tour around 10.45 AM.

North Sikkim Tour begins!

It didn’t take long to transition from the bustling markets of Gangtok to the topsy turvy mountain roads leading to North Sikkim. In a matter of 45 minutes, we stopped at a lovely waterfall called Butterfly Waterfalls. Though it was not such a big waterfall, it was a nice stop-over for a refreshing cool drink.

After an hour’s drive, we stopped over at Dikchu view point, where Dik Chuu River meets Teesta River. From the Dikchu bridge, one could enjoy a lovely panoramic view of the river confluence. Then it was lunch time. The driver took us to a modest eatery on the roadside for a simple Sikkimese lunch. Approximately quarter to 3 PM, we started again on our North Sikkim Tour.

Before it got dark, we stopped two other places. The view point near Tung check post was quite fascinating. Standing over the Tung Bridge and looking at the gushing glacial waters flowing from North Sikkim passing below our feet was a special feeling. After an hour’s drive from the bridge, at about 5.30 PM, we stopped for the evening tea. In the middle of dense forests, a little tea shop and children playing outside. The vendor served us nice black tea with biscuits. And then, we were off for Lachen, the scheduled destination for the night.

Things got scary and change in plans midway:

By the time we reached Chungthang, the driver got the news that the areas ahead of us towards Lachen had started getting heavy rains. Chungthang is the place where two roads diverge- one towards Lachen and the other towards Lachung. As per our plan, the driver took the road towards Lachen.

In a matter of minutes away from Chungthang, we were in the midst of rains. However, the driver decided to take a chance to pass a stretch of most difficult road of 8-10 kms. In this section, the narrow road is fragile with loose boulders falling from the mountains on one side, and on the other, the Lachen River flows about hundred meters below.

As we headed to this most precarious section, the rains picked up and stones started falling. But the driver courageously kept driving in pitch dark and near-zero visibility due to heavy rains. Fearing for the worse, I was praying for everyone’s safety. In about 30 minutes, the vehicles that were ahead of us, reported a heavy landslide and road-closure. So, we had no choice but to return.

On the way, the driver made us wait for rains to subside and hoped the road to open again. But all in vain; no more good news that evening. Instead, we took a diversion and headed to the other side- Lachung. The driver made some last minute arrangement and we got a hotel to check in.

Day-2: Lachung- Yumthang Valley- Zero Point to Lachen

Lachung:

Before we start day-2, I shouldn’t forget writing about Lachung, a lovely little hamlet/ town at an elevation of 9,600 feet. Situated at the confluence of two rivers- Lachung and Lachen, the place is absolutely scenic and peaceful. The first thing I noticed in the morning was a lovely waterfall gushing down the mountain at a distance. With the nearby attractions, and a serene environment, it’s good for a 3-4 nights stay. But we had only one night!

As our driver had informed us, day-2 of North Sikkim Tour started in the wee hours of the morning. We hoped, by the time we got back from Yumthang Valley, there would be good news of reopening of the Lachen road.

Shingba Rhododendron Sanctuary:

In less than an hour from Lachung, we reached our first stop- the Rhododendron Sanctuary in Yumthang Valley. We couldn’t be there at a better time of the year. Since it was April, the Rhododendrons were in full bloom. Various shades of Rhododendron flowers- from pink and purple to red and white, the valley brimmed with the vibrant spring flowers. It’s quite amazing that there are about 40 species of Rhododendrons in the valley.

After spending half an hour enjoying the flowery landscape, we left for Zero Point, about 38 kms away. Since late in the day the weather becomes adverse, the driver wanted us to visit Zero Point first, and stop in Yumthang Valley while coming back.

Zero Point:

About 28 kms from Yumthang, Zero Point is the last point where tourists are allowed near Indo- China border. Situated over 15,300 feet (4,663 mts) of altitude, Zero Point remains under snow throughout the year. With spectacular snow-covered landscapes all around, the valley looked absolutely awe-inspiring. Walking over the perennial snow was an amazing experience. Though we wanted to stay there for a bit longer, they allowed us only 30 minutes. So, we had to say bye to the valley about 10.30 AM.

Yumthang Valley:

In an hour’s drive down the hill, we reached Yumthang Valley, famous as the Sikkim Valley of Flowers. Named after Yumthang River (or, Lachung River), the valley situated at an elevation of 11,693 feet (3,564 mts) is an absolute beauty. Along with the Rhododendrons, cute primulas carpet the whole landscape of the riverside. Yumthang River flows from the high mountains nonchalantly making a stunning postcard view. I loved walking on the bank of the river feeling the cold wind in my hair.

After spending an hour in the valley, it was time to get back to Lachung. Leaving Yumthang around 12.30 PM, we reached Lachung ~1.30 PM. On reaching Lachung, we heard the best news- that the roads to Lachen had opened up. So without wasting much time, we had lunch and left for Lachen (~50 kms away) around 3 PM. On the way, we stopped over at a lovely waterfall- Bhim Nala Falls, popular as Amitabh Bachchan Waterfall.

It was good that we could pass that dangerous section on Lachen road before it was dark. With a little tea break afterwards, we reached Lachen around 6 PM and checked in at a homestay.

Day-3: Lachen to Gurudongmar Lake and back

Lachen:

The second part of North Sikkim Tour started in Lachen. Situated at an altitude of 9,000 feet (2,750 mts), Lachen essentially serves as a gateway to the Gurudongmar Lake and Chopta Valley. Though a little smaller than Lachung, Lachen, in my view, is more beautiful and serene as a hamlet/ town. (Interestingly, ‘Lachung’ means ‘small pass’ and ‘Lachen’ means ‘big pass’! Maybe, something to do with their past. If you know, please tell me).

As soon as I reached the hamlet in the evening, I was struck by its beauty. I was so excited that I walked around and showed Parina around on a video call. Next day also, after coming back from Gurudongmar Lake, I walked around exploring the nooks and corners of the village. Like most Sikkimese villages, the households stored large piles of woods for the winter season. I found it interesting the way they stack them up in front of their houses.

Now, let’s talk about the main reason why I undertook this North Sikkim Tour- the mystical Gurudongmar Lake. Ever since the first time I heard of this legendary lake from a friend, I was waiting for this day.

High-altitude wonder of Gurudongmar Lake:

Like most high altitude places, weather conditions deteriorate at Gurudongmar Lake after midday. So, it was only appropriate that the driver asked us to get ready early in the morning ~6.00 AM. The hosts offered us some black tea and biscuits and we commenced on our journey towards the lake.

From Lachen, Gurudongmar Lake is only about 65 kms. But due to adverse road conditions, it takes about two and half hours to reach there. As soon as we got out of Lachen, we had to cross the Lachen River. The bridge had been washed away by the 2023 floods. So, the driver had to struggle through the rough river-bed and afterwards, treacherous roads for 30 kms that took one and half hours.

The next one hour drive was smooth though. With a breakfast- stop (30 minutes) at Thangu Valley, we reached the lake ~9.00 AM. Just before the lake, the road again got rough (~2 kms).

However, reaching there and the first glimpse of the lake made all the hardship vanish in a second! What a sight! Turquoise blue water with spectacular snow-capped mountains in the backdrop made the lake look magical. The fact that after two failed attempts, I succeeded this time, made the experience even more special and memorable.

The legend of Gurudongmar Lake:

Situated at an altitude of 17,800 feet (~5,430 mts), Gurudongmar is among the highest lakes in the world. But more than that, the alpine lake is famous for its spiritual value and legends associated with it. Would you believe, at this altitude and in sub-zero temperatures, a portion of the lake doesn’t freeze throughout the year! Buddhists believe that in the 8th century, Guru Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) blessed this portion. And since then, portion of the lake doesn’t freeze!

Because of its high altitude, oxygen is very thin in the air. So, it’s not safe to stay at the lake for more than 45 minutes. Hence, we left the lake by 9.45 AM.

Chopta Valley and Kala Patthar:

On the way back, the driver offered us to visit Chopta Valley and Kala Patthar area. For that we would have to take a diversion from Thangu Valley. It would have taken about two hours for the round trip. But neither we had the energy nor the time to visit Kala Patthar. Because we were supposed to reach Gangtok late that night. So, we decided to give it a miss and proceed straight to Lachen. Reaching Lachen, we had our lunch quickly at the homestay and started our journey back to Gangtok.

On the way, we stopped over at waterfalls, river and valley view points. Starting from Lachen ~2.00 PM, after another long, difficult drive in the rains, we reached Gangtok by 9 PM. And that was the end of my most memorable North Sikkim Tour. Next day, I explored Gangtok a bit. And on day-6, I left for Delhi via Siliguri.

North Sikkim Tour: Travel Tips

Best time for North Sikkim Tour:

Spring- summer: Since weather and road conditions remain adverse for most part of the year, the best time for a North Sikkim Tour is between March and May. Apart from the weather, the flowers (especially, Rhododendrons) bloom in April- May period.
Monsoon: It rains heavily from late May- early June till September. Sometimes, it starts raining from early May also; do check the weather before planning for May.
Autumn season: October- November are good months as well. During these months, sky is clear and one gets a great view of Kanchenjunga peak. However, these months can be a bit too cold for some.
Though winter months are great for snow enthusiasts, road- conditions can play spoilsport.

How to plan your North Sikkim Tour:

One should book their North Sikkim Tour through a local tour operator. One can book online, or after arriving in Gangtok at MG Road.
Popular tours are for 2 nights/ 3 nights. So, choose your tour as per your preference.
One should note that Protected Area Permit is compulsory for North Sikkim Tour. So, apply for it, and you are ready for the trip!

Getting the Protected Area Permit (PAP) for North Sikkim Tour:

Domestic tourists: One must apply for a Protected Area Permit (PAP) through a travel agency registered in Sikkim. Documents required: Identity proof- Voter card/ Passport/ Driving License (Aadhar card not accepted); 4 physical copies of passport size photographs.
Foreigners: Foreigners require both Restricted Area Permit (RAP) and Protected Area Permit (PAP). They must travel in a group of at least two accompanied by a guide.

How to reach/ Shared-taxi details:

The tour operators will take care of the transport, mostly in SUVs (usually, Sumo/ Maxx). So, one need not worry about the route and directions. They take 8- 10 people in a shared taxi. During main tourist season, typical per seat charges are Rs. 4000- 5000 for a 2-nights/ 3-days North Sikkim Tour. This includes basic food and accommodation as well. But trips to Zero Point/ Mount Katao from Lachung and Kala Patthar/ Chopta Valley from Lachen will cost some additional amount.

Where to stay:

There are enough hotels, guesthouses and homestays in Lachung and Lachen for travellers. Generally, this is taken care of by the tour operators. The hotel and homestay we stayed in were satisfactory for the place. Tour operators charge as per the quality/ cost of accommodation.

What/ Where to eat:

Since most people travel through tour operators, food is also taken care of at the hotels/ homestays. But if you want to explore local food, there are a few good cafes in both locations.

Good cafes in Lachung: Cafe Lachung ||| Cafe Snow Flake ||| Coffee With A View
Some good cafes in Lachen: Pub Yakuza ||| Ingredient Resto-Bar ||| Rufina Lachen Deezong
Must try: Thukpa/ Thenthuk; Momos; Gundruk; Phagshapa; Butter Tea.
But while on the drive, the food is just modest.

Essential Survival Guide for North Sikkim Tour

Up to an altitude of 8000 feet (~2,500 mts), most people don’t feel any health related issues. But once one crosses 8000 feet, moderate health issues like headache and nausea can trigger in 25% individuals. Further, beyond 12,000 feet, Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) can set in among most people due to lack of oxygen.

Precautions for Altitude Sickness:

Lachen and Lachung are situated over 9000 feet, till which point, it’s okay for most people. But as one drives towards Zero Point or Gurudongmar Lake, AMS can trigger. Hence, one must be careful while visiting these high altitude places on the North Sikkim Tour. Some of the precautions include:

Acclimatization is important while travelling to high altitude places. In essence, this means, one should take at least a day rest in Lachen/ Lachung before visiting Gurudongmar Lake. But since people generally take 2-night trips, this becomes difficult.
Thus, it’s good to keep a small oxygen cylinder for emergency situations.
However, at least, one should sleep well for 9- 10 hours for the days leading up to the North Sikkim Tour.
One should not hang around at high altitude places for more than an hour.

Packing suggestions for North Sikkim Tour:

Warm clothing: Inner thermal wears; sweaters and jackets. Though two layers are enough for the summer, 3-4 layers are necessary for winters.
Accessories: Gloves; Snow boots; Sunglasses; Woolen caps; Mufflers.
Skin care: Sunscreen lotion; Moisturizer.
Medicines: Diamox; First-aid box; Portable oxygen container.
Others: Cash; Torch; Power back-up; Reusable insulated water bottle.

Concluding Thoughts

North Sikkim Tour was one of my most extraordinary trips ever. Not only for the spectacular landscapes, but for the adventure/ uncertainty it involved and the spiritual experience as well. I still remember the philosophical feeling while standing on the shores of Gurudongmar Lake at 17,800 feet. The essence of true spiritualism- the insignificance of my existence and the larger scheme of the universe. Apart from spirituality, I had a sense of achievement at a personal level.

North Sikkim is much more than landscapes and adventure. If you can manage your permits somehow, it’s a great idea to stay longer and experience the culture of the region. Someday, I would love to do this.

If you are planning a North Sikkim Tour, and want more information, do reach out to me.