Death. What kind of feeling does this word instill in you? Does it create a sense of panic or fear or restlessness or sadness? If your answer is yes, you are not alone, for sure. And if your answer is yes, you need to visit the ghats on the Ganges in Varanasi. Watching the mortal remains of fellow humans burn to ash in front of your eyes will not make you sad, or fearful, but thoughtful and spiritual.
Millions visit the ghats on the Ganges in Varanasi every year, and come back immersed in a deep sense of spiritualism. And I’m no different. (Ghats are basically descending stairs to the river for ritual purposes). Here’s an account of my experience, along with a few tips for your visit.
{Talking of spiritualism, do read more: Rishikesh ||| Shravanabelagola}
A moment at the ghats on the Ganges in Varanasi…
8 PM in the evening; it was dark, but there was light. The light emanated from the tens of funeral pyres. Around the pyres, small groups of people had gathered at the Manikarnika Ghat. Among the groups of people that had gathered, most had moist eyes bidding final goodbye to a near and dear one. Some were helping out the mortal remains to burn in the piles of wood and ghee (clarified butter); they do this more than a hundred times everyday! And there were onlookers like me.
For someone who lost a dear one, it must be an hour of deep emotions. On the other hand, to that man helping the fire burn, it would not be any more than another day in the office. However, a visitor like me, would be somewhere in between these two extremes. It has to be a sense of spiritualism. (Read more in a section below)
Varanasi, the city of eternal spiritualism
Hypothetically, let’s take all human beings and throw them in a big basket, and mix them well. And take out a random sample. Let’s ask them to name one place that they would want to visit before they die. Most probably, the top three places, in no particular order would be Jerusalem, Mecca and Varanasi. Needless to say that all of these places are holy places for three of the largest religious denominations- the Christians, Muslims and Hindus.
Though Varanasi would not be the top of the list for all Hindus, it would definitely be among the top three. Hinduism is a very diverse religion, if it at all is a religion. A large section of Hindus don’t consider Hinduism as a religion, rather, it’s a way of life- the “Sanatana Dharma”. Hinduism is a definition coined by foreigners. Not all Hindus follow the same rituals and the same belief system! Some of them may be agnostics or atheists, and still be Hindus!
But yes, Varanasi, nevertheless is an important pilgrimage for all Hindus. Its history and legend go back ten thousand years! This makes Varanasi one of the oldest cities in the world.
{Further reading on other great cities of India: Kolkata ||| Delhi}
Why is Varanasi the city of eternal spiritualism:
Though mythology and Hindu religious texts claim a much older existence of Varanasi, historical evidence suggests Varanasi (also called Banaras) was established around 1200 BC, known as Kashi in those days. This makes Varanasi India’s oldest and one of world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities. Through out history, it has remained one of India’s most prominent centers of spiritualism, religion, literature, culture, music, art and craft. To know more, click here: History of Varanasi.
The name Varanasi comes from two rivers- Varun and Assi, contributing to the great river Ganges at Varanasi. Varanasi was called Banaras by the British; but was corrected later. In ancient times though, the city was known as Kashi, meaning the “City of Light”. (Read about another City of Light: Paris). Moreover, Varanasi is considered as one of the seven centers of Moksha (salvation) for Hindus.
If for Hindus, it’s the Kashi Vishwanath temple that offers the solace, for Buddhists, it’s Sarnath, where Buddha gave his first sermon.
Apart from religious heritage, Varanasi boasts of its Classical musical tradition, and the highest quality of handloom silk fabric. Not for nothing, they call it the culture capital of India.
{Further reading suggestions of culturally rich places in India: Udaipur ||| Jaisalmer ||| Loktak Lake}
However, for me (and for millions of other travellers), the ghats on the Ganges are the most fascinating aspect of Varanasi. Let’s talk a bit more about these iconic ghats.
Ghats on the Ganges in Varanasi
No where in India, will you be more intrigued than at the ghats on the Ganges, the sacred river, in Varanasi. It’s a 360 degree attack on all your senses. Even though we Indians are used to the crowd on the street, the level of chaos is just unparalleled on the ghats and streets of Varanasi. However, once you absorb all the chaos around, you will start to observe the essence of a city that has been evolving through thousands of years while still holding its originality.
From wee hours of the morning to late in the night, these ghats keep abuzz with devotees seeking salvation. Hindus believe that a dip in the waters of the Ganges on these ghats of Varanasi would rid them of their sins. Besides, thousands visit the ghats to perform last rites of their near and dear ones. While thousands more travel just to witness this eternal tradition of Hinduism.
Most appropriately, these iconic ghats on the Ganges in Varanasi are in the tentative list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Ganges, the holiest river in India
Though rivers are revered all over the world, none more than the Ganges in India. Not only because it’s lifeline for millions living off it, but also because it has a special place in Hinduism. From Gangotri (where it originates) to the Bay of Bengal (where it meets the sea), the path covering more than 2500 kilometers is a sacred path.
The Ganges doesn’t carry only water, it carries with it the faith of millions, and carries away the sins of believers. Ghats on the Ganges, be it at Haridwar, or Allahabad or Varanasi, have always attracted millions of devotees to wash off their sins.
The iconic ghats on the Ganges:
Of the 84 ghats on the Ganges in Varanasi, the most important ones are the Assi Ghat, Dashashwamedh Ghat, Manikarnika Ghat, Panchaganga Ghat, and Adikeshaba Ghat (Raj Ghat). These five are considered the sacred five- Panchatirthi. Apart from these five, another important ghat is the Harischandra Ghat. It’s here all the funerals are performed, along with the more popular Manikarnika Ghat.
These 84 ghats are lined on the left bank of the Ganges in Varanasi within a span of 7-8 kilometers. Standing at one end of these ghats- Assi Ghat, one can see the other end, the Adikeshaba Ghat. If one wishes, one can actually walk along the entire stretch. I would love to do this sometime.
Dashashwamedh Ghat:
According to mythology, it’s this ghat where Lord Brahma had performed the Ashwamedh yanja. Just before sunset, all roads in Varanasi lead to the Dashashwamedh Ghat every evening. Because this is where the world famous Ganga Aarti happens at the ghats on the Ganges in Varanasi.
As the sun goes down on the other side of the river, the stage gets set for the Aarti. Thousands of devotees converge at the ghat to witness a row of priests in gorgeous silk attire create magic through rituals. Their rhythmic whirl of huge brass flaming oil lamps among chanting of mantras (hymns), sounding of the cymbals and blowing of conch shells make the atmosphere electrifying.
Vendors selling flowers for rituals, priests carrying lamps (expecting donations), devotees engrossed in rituals, and floating lamps in the darkness of the river, all add up to the fascination. Even in the darkness of the night, visitors enjoy boat rides in the river to enjoy the night view of the ghats on the Ganges.
Manikarnika Ghat:
Along with Dashashwamedh Ghat, Manikarnika is among the most iconic ghats on the Ganges in Varanasi. Being situated beside the Dashashwamedh Ghat, it’s easy to visit as well. However, women are not allowed at this ghat for religious reasons, though they can observe the cremations from a distance from the river. Cremations take place 24 hours of the day at this ghat.
In fact, ‘death’ is so much associated with Varanasi that a lot of people call it the “City of Death”!
Hindus believe in reincarnation. It essentially means that the soul takes rebirth every time at death, and takes a new form till it’s liberated from the cycles of birth and death. However, by dying at the ghats on the Ganges in Varanasi, Hindus believe that one attains that liberation. Thus, death is a celebration in Varanasi.
Adding to the importance of the place, there’s a Shakti Peeth (of the 51 Shakti Peeths) near the Ghat called Vishalakshi temple.
Beyond the ghats (on the Ganges) of Varanasi
Streets of Varanasi:
Ascending from the ghats on the Ganges, the most striking scene for me was to come across various groups of people carrying on their shoulders corpses in bamboo stretchers. I came across at least 3- 4 of them in a matter of minutes! In tradition of Hinduism, they chanted “Ram naam satya hai, Hari naam satya hai” while they marched towards the Manikarnika Ghat on the river bank. In a way, this was their way of thanking the Lord for the life, and for the salvation.
Isn’t this spiritualism of the highest order?
From the ghats, as one enters the labyrinth of small congested streets of Varanasi, it keeps one intrigued. Be it the shops selling items for the last rituals, or for the temple rituals, to the numerous food stalls, visitors throng the streets everywhere. Street-corner barber shops to cycle rickshaws running alongside luxury cars, Varanasi is a photographer’s delight as well.
By the way, the cows, dogs and goats are not be left behind! Of course, this can be a bit overwhelming for the foreigners; but they seem to be enjoying as well.
Temples of Varanasi:
Along with the ghats on the Ganges, Kashi Vishwanath Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva is at the center of Hindu pilgrimage in Varanasi. It’s one of the 12 Jyotirlingas in India. Though Jyotirlingas are generally important pilgrimage sites, this temple gains special eminence because of its situation in Varanasi.
In addition, it has historical importance due to its destruction many a times by invading Muslim rulers. The temple was rebuilt many a times, the last time by Queen Ahilyabai Holkar. She constructed the Ahilya Ghat as well. And later, she constructed similar ghats on the Narmada river in Maheshwar (click to read).
Though there are hundreds of temples in Varanasi, the most popular ones are Vishalakshi temple, Annapurna temple, Durga temple and Sankat Mochan temple.
Other things of interest:
Varanasi has much more to offer than its ghats on the Ganges and the temples. Monuments, music, heritage weaving and food, here’s a glimpse of the rich list.
Ramnagar Fort:
Quite ironically, not many travellers are aware of the existence of a beautiful fort in Varanasi! I didn’t even hear about it on my first visit. But on the second trip, through a prior research, I got to know about it, and made it a point to visit the same.
The fort is situated on the opposite side of the Tulsi Ghat just across the Ganges. Built in 1750 by the then King Balwant Singh, it still is in fairly good condition. It houses a museum, a temple, and gives an amazing view of the ghats on Ganges on the other side.
Music: Varanasi has a rich history of music since ancient times. Among the greats are Pt. Ravi Shankar (Sitar) and Ustad Bismillah Khan (Shehnai). Banaras gharana for tabla is also famous. As a recognition of its rich musical tradition, Varanasi has been declared as a UNESCO Heritage City of Music.
Handloom weaving tradition: Undoubtedly, Banaras sarees are among the best handloom products from India. In different pockets around the city, the weavers still weave fine silk yarn into gorgeous sarees.
Food: Varanasi is a foodie’s delight, especially its street food. Most popular Banarasi food include kachoris, chats, jalebis and paan. (Look for suggestions on what/ where to eat below)
Buddhism in Varanasi: Sarnath
Varanasi is not only important for Hindus, but also for Buddhists. Sarnath, just about 9 kilometers from Varanasi town, is among the four most important pilgrimages (Lumbini, Bodhgaya and Kushinagar are the other three) for the Buddhists.
The major attraction in Sarnath is the Dhamek Stupa, set in a lovely park that also houses the famous Ashokan pillar. Besides, there are a few modern structures built by Sri Lankan and Thailand governments. There’s a museum near Dhamek Stupa which houses a good number of relics from that era. A light & sound show takes place at Dhamek Stupa every evening.
Historical importance of the place:
Gautama Buddha, in the 6th century BC, after attaining enlightenment in Bodhgaya, delivered his first sermon to his five disciples here, at the age of 35. These five persons, disenchanted by his thoughts, had earlier abandoned the Buddha.
However, after receiving enlightenment, Buddha heard about their whereabouts in a deer park in Sarnath. Soon afterwards, he found them out and shared his new found wisdom. The five persons became so impressed with this new wisdom that they became Buddha’s first disciples, and started preaching to the public at large.
Two centuries later, Buddhism flourished under the Mauryan King- Ashoka when he got his life lesson in the aftermath of the Kalinga War in today’s Odisha (click to read more). He built stupas, pillars and monasteries to propagate Buddhism near and far. In fact, the ruins of the pillars and stupas in Sarnath are mostly Ashoka’s contribution. However, some of them did come up later during the Gupta period.
Unfortunately, these structures were destroyed by invading Muslim rulers in the 12th century. Subsequently, they were discovered and renovated by the British in the 19th century onwards.
How to experience Varanasi and the ghats on Ganges
In order to experience Varanasi properly, one needs at least two days; and more the merrier. For your convenience, let me share my views on a two-day (plus) itinerary. The plus means checking-in the previous night, and checking-out on the next day.
Day-0: Check in at a hotel of your choice, and relax. Maybe, you can explore some street food options.
Day-1:
- To start with, witnessing the sunrise at Dashashwamedh Ghat is a great way to begin your day. Check out sunrise time for the day. There are small and big boats (carrying 8 to 50 passengers); choose as per your choice. I would suggest hiring a small boat (rather than joining a big boat), if you are a small group. If alone, share it with someone. They will be helpful in clicking a few pictures for you!
- Then head back to your hotel to take a bath, and have your breakfast.
- About 10 AM, head to Assi Ghat, the first ghat from one end. Explore the nearby ghats like Tulsi Ghat and Bhadaini Ghat by foot. Spend about an hour there. Then visit a few temples (except the Kashi Vishwanath temple; keep it for the next morning): Durga temple, Sankat Mochan temple, and Annapurna temple for sure; and more if you wish.
- Just before sunset, head to the Dashashwamedh Ghat again to enjoy the sunset. Explore the nearby ghats like Harischandra Ghat, etc.
- Take part in the famous Ganga Aarti just after sunset there.
- If you wish, take another boat ride to have a night view of the ghats on the Ganges.
- Then, walk up to the Manikarnika Ghat. Observing the funeral pyres in the dark is a surreal experience.
- Enjoy some street food, and head back to your hotel room; that’s day-1.
Day-2:
- Begin your day by visiting the Kashi Vishwanath temple very early in the morning, actually before sunset.
- Head back to the hotel to have your breakfast, and relax a bit.
- Around 10 AM, leave for the Ramnagar fort across the Ganges.
- Then visit a weavers’ colony to see the traditional Banarasi weaving in action.
- Next, visit the Adikeshaba Ghat (the last one); walk around nearby ghats like Raj Ghat and Khidkiya Ghat.
- After lunch, head to Sarnath.
- Reaching Sarnath, first visit the Museum so that you get the right context for exploring Sarnath.
- Then visit the Buddhist monuments built by Thai and Sri Lankan governments.
- In the end, visit the Dhamek Stupa site; spend about an hour there immersing in history/ spiritualism. Enjoy a special sunset at the campus, watching the sun go down the horizon behind the stupa.
- Head back to Varanasi. Take a stroll in the main shopping area (Godowlia market) near Dashashwamedh Ghat. May choose to enjoy Ganga Aarti again, or/ and search for more street food options. That’s day-2.
Varanasi: Travel Tips
Best time to visit:
- Season-wise, October to March is the best period. Though Dec-Jan would be peak of winter, it would be enjoyable nonetheless.
- If you are looking for festival times, Maha Shivratri (Feb); Holi (Mar); Dev Deepavali (Oct/ Nov) are the main festivals in Varanasi. For Buddhists, Buddha Purnima is the main festival that falls in Apr-May. Please check out the exacts dates before planning.
How to reach:
- Varanasi has an airport with flights from major cities of India
- It is well connected by train from major cities of India, and by bus from major cities of Uttar Pradesh.
Where to stay:
As the ghats on the Ganges are the main attractions in Varanasi, and traffic is a big issue there, I would suggest, one should stay as close as possible to a ghat. If possible, do look for a nice property near Dashashwamedh Ghat or Assi Ghat. For your convenience, here is a list of few good ones:
Budget Hotels: Near Dashashwamedh Ghat: Cozy Inn Homestay || Bedzzz || Hotel Saffron || Golden Crown ||| Near Assi Ghat: The Kashi Residency || Varanasi Heritage.
Hostels: Moustache || La Vaca India (Ganges view) || HosteLaVie (for solo) || goSTOPS (party) || Madsquad || Gypsy Diaries || Wander Station (for digital nomads) || Zostel || Live Free Hostel.
How to move around:
- As all the places of interest are within a 10-km radius, one can easily move around in auto/ e-rickshaws.
- Because it’s a congested city, movement of cars/taxis has limitations; they aren’t allowed near the ghats during peak hours. So, plan accordingly.
- Cycle rickshaws are also available.
- In fact, walking around is not a bad idea at all.
Where/ what to eat:
Street Food: Deena Chat Bhandar (Dahi chutney gol gappe; Chaat tamatar) || Kachori Gali (Kachoris) || Neelkanth (Malaiyyo) || Vishwanath Misthan Bhandar (Chhena dahi vada) || Rajbandhu (Launglata) || Kashi Chat Bhandaar (Dahi/ Aloo Chaat) || Puran Das Road (Baati Chokha) || Blue Lassi (Thandai) || Deepak Tambul Bhandar (Paan) || Kashi Tea Stall (Chai) || Laxmi Chai Waley (Safed Makhan Toast).
Restaurants: Brown Bread & German Bakery || Pizzeria Vaatika Cafe || The Banaras Rasoi || Wife on Leave || Zaika Restaurant || Canton Royale Restaurant || Aum Cafe || Aadha Aadha Cafe || Itihaas Alley Kitchen.
For more, read: 20 Best Restaurants in Varanasi
Concluding Thoughts
Spiritualism is not what you think, but what you experience and internalize. One may not be religious, but can be spiritual. That world is made up of matter, is easy to see. But that world also consists of the spirit, needs to be believed, felt, and experienced. Spiritualism is beyond sight and thought. Once you visit Varanasi, you will have your sense of spiritualism strengthened.
Besides, one thing is for sure, whether you are a Hindu or not, whether you are religious or not, whether you are Indian or not, the ghats on the Ganges in Varanasi will leave you overwhelmed, and spellbound.
It’s quite interesting to see ‘death’ being at the center of spiritualism in Varanasi. You feel life and death as two sides of the same coin. Coming back from Varanasi, you will be a little less worried about death.
After visiting the ghats on the Ganges in Varanasi, whether you wash off your sins or not, whether you attain salvation or not, you will surely be closer to wisdom. You will surely be a different person. You will probably reinvent yourself.
JANICE HORTON
Wow – loved reading this – so thought provoking and beautifully written. Fabulous photos. I sighed reading this sentence – and then read it again. “The Ganges doesn’t carry only water, it carries with it the faith of millions, and carries away the sins of believers.”
stampedmoments
Thank you so much, Janice for your sweet words, and a great feedback.
Have you visited Varanasi yet?
Keep in touch; cheers!
Jane Frith
I am not religious, but agree with you completely about spiritualism and reading this, I would love to visit Varanasi and experience it for myself. I am sad when others die, but not scared of death and like you, see death as a part of life. I think ceremony is an important part of the celebration of life. I loved reading this article and learned a lot. Thank you.
stampedmoments
Hi Jane! I’m so glad that you liked the article.
I totally echo your thoughts and feelings.
Yes, Varanasi is worth your effort; in fact, it’s popular among foreign visitors to India.
Thanks, keep connected.