Akasha (space), Vayu (air), Agni (fire), Jal (water) and Prithvi (earth) are the basic five elements (Panch Mahabhut) of cosmic creation, as per Hindu traditions. If there’s anything that makes you feel and experience this, it’s the Tihar Festival in Nepal. The way Nepalese people celebrate Tihar not only activates the five basic elements of life, it also appeals to one’s five senses. The sights, sounds, tastes, smells and feelings were so dramatic during the festival that we fell in love with this land of high mountains.
Tihar in Nepal is a celebration of the harmony among animals, humans, family bonding and Gods at once. It’s as much meant for a spiritual purpose as for having some fun in life. Each day of the five-day festival signifies something different and rituals are intertwined with that philosophy. But at the end of the day, it’s about celebrations, it’s about making merry and enjoying life.
Diwali is just round the corner in India and I am reminiscing in the memories of last Diwali. We spent our last Diwali (October 2025) in Nepal, which Nepalese people call Tihar. Though there are differences between the ways Indians and Nepalese people celebrate this festival of lights, historically and in essence, they have a lot in common.
{For more such readings on Hindu festivals, check out: Kullu Dussehra ||| Durga Puja in Kolkata}
Tihar in Nepal: The beautiful festival of lights
Before we landed in Nepal on the eve of Tihar, we knew what to expect. We assumed it would be more or less similar to what Diwali is in India. However, we were far off the mark. Though there are similarities, differences are more prominent.
Similarities between Tihar in Nepal and Diwali in India:
- Both the festivals fall on the same dates and continue for five days during October/ November months.
- In their essence, both Tihar in Nepal and Diwali in India celebrate the victory of ‘good’ over ‘evil’, and the victory of ‘light’ over ‘darkness’. And this is why both of them are called ‘festival of lights’.
- On the third day, both the festivals worship Goddess Lakshmi and on fourth day, it’s Govardhan Puja. Similarly, on the last day of the festival, both Tihar in Nepal and Diwali in India celebrate the bonding between siblings and family values.
Differences between Tihar in Nepal and Diwali in India:
- While the mythological story behind Diwali in India is centered around Lord Ram’s return to Ayodhya, Tihar in Nepal is based on the myth of Yamuna and her brother Yamaraj. That’s why Tihar is also called Yamapanchak.
- During Tihar in Nepal, for three days, they worship animals (crow, dog and cow). But there’s no such ritual in India during Diwali.
- People in India celebrate in private, at their homes/ clubs, etc. However, in Nepal, Tihar is largely a public festival, especially the community-centric Deusi- Bhailo musical celebrations.
Five days of rituals and celebrations during Tihar in Nepal:
On the first day of Tihar, Nepal celebrates Kaag Tihar (Crow Worship). The second day is called Kukur Tihar (Dog Worship). On the third day of Tihar, Nepal celebrates Gai Tihar (worship of cows) and Lakshmi Puja, worship of Goddess Lakshmi (the Goddess of wealth/ prosperity). In India, this is generally the main day of Diwali: Lakshmi Puja.
On the fourth day, Nepal observes traditions such as Govardhan Puja, Goru Tihar (Ox Worship), and Mha Puja, worship of the self or soul, which is particularly important to the Newar community and coincides with their New Year. On the last day, both in India and Nepal, people celebrate the bond between brothers and sisters. While in Nepal, they call it Bhai Tika, in India, we call it Bhai Dooj.
What we experienced and loved about Tihar in Nepal
We picked the dates for our Nepal trip considering our convenience. But hardly did we know of the surprises Nepal had in store for us. I have celebrated Diwali all along in our home country, and childhood memories of Diwali make me nostalgic. However, the experience of celebrating Diwali (Tihar) in Nepal was very different. It gave us a wonderful opportunity to learn more about the culture of Nepal.
Before the trip, we had heard about Tihar festival in Nepal in bits and pieces. But to be honest, we were not expecting an experience very different from what we have in India. However, after we visited Nepal, we felt that Tihar in Nepal was more vibrant, visible, and engaging than Diwali celebrations in India. Besides, Tihar in Nepal seemed to have a particularly strong connection with nature alongside its religious significance.
We reached Kathmandu on the evening of the first day of Tihar. While we enjoyed the second and third days of Tihar in Kathmandu, for the fourth and fifth days, we were in Pokhara. Here’s an account of how we experienced Tihar in Nepal over the five days.
{If you want to know more about our experiences in Nepal, check out: Kathmandu UNESCO Sites ||| Pokhara Best Places}
Experiencing Tihar in Kathmandu
We landed in Kathmandu in the afternoon and didn’t waste any time at the hotel. Since it was the eve of Tihar, we set out to explore the markets and soak in the festive vibes. From our prior research, we knew where to head- Kathmandu Durbar Square.
Reaching there, we observed that the markets and public places were quite lively and abuzz with people buying stuff. They were buying new clothes, colours and flowers for Rangoli, flamboyant lights, puja (prayer) items, and other festive essentials. We walked around the square, climbed up the stares of the temple, sat down observing the hustle and bustle all around and had some street food there.
Celebratory procession of Newari People:
During our first two days in Kathmandu, we saw Newari people coming out every evening in groups of friends, family members, and neighbours while playing their musical instruments and singing. Walking in processions, they would march from their neighbourhoods towards popular temples.
Women wore beautiful black saris with red or zari borders, adapted from the traditional Newari attire called Haku Patasi. Haku Patasi traditionally features a full-sleeved blouse and a distinctive black sari with a broad red border, wrapped around the waist and falling below the knees. Men wore matching traditional attire, including tunics and trousers, along with a white shawl.
Festive Decorations:
Markets, streets, and homes were decorated with bright electric lights. Moreover, marigold garlands hanging from the doors of houses and shops looked beautiful. One of the most admirable decorations was the Rangoli at doorsteps of homes and shops.
Rangoli is a traditional art, often created in mandala-like designs using different colours. Many people also make Rangoli using rice flour paste, grains, and flowers. To welcome wealth and prosperity, they draw small footsteps from the Rangoli towards the house or shop, and sometimes towards the cash box.
Another important decoration is the diya, a small traditional oil or ghee lamp. Diyas placed at doorsteps and at different places around homes and shops look elegant at night. To compare, one witnesses almost all these decorations during Diwali in India as well.
Experiencing Tihar in Pokhara
Deusi- Bhailo:
This was one of the most interesting and enjoyable experiences, and something we loved to witness and participate in. Deusi- Bhailo is a traditional folk singing and dancing tradition performed by groups of men and women. The groups go around the houses and shops in their neighbourhoods, singing songs and offering blessings. In return, householders and shopkeepers happily offer them gifts such as sweets, traditional food, and money.
There are various legends and historical interpretations regarding the origin of the Deusi- Bhailo tradition. One popular legend connects it with King Bali, while other interpretations trace similar traditions to Nepal’s historical and regional cultural practices. However, the exact origin is not beyond doubt.
{To know more about the tradition, read: Deusi- Bhailo}
Changing flavours of Deusi- Bhailo over the years:
Traditionally, groups used to sing old folk songs. Now-a-days, however, the performances have become more contemporary, with individuals and groups dancing to modern Bollywood and Nepali songs as well. After performing a mix of modern and traditional songs and dances, they sing specific Deusi- Bhailo verses.
Although Deusi- Bhailo traditionally associates with particular days of Tihar, we came across these lively performances throughout our time in Nepal.
We enjoyed it so much that even after a long day of exploration, we would walk around just to watch these dance performances. In Pokhara main market area, in every few metres, we would come across a group performing. Every group was so entertaining that it was difficult to decide which one to stop and watch!
Bhai Tika:
The festival celebrating the bond between brothers and sisters is unique and very adorable. Luckily, we got a chance to experience it up close during our stay in Pokhara. One morning, when we were on our way up to Sarangkot, we noticed a family in front of their house by the roadside preparing for some rituals. Out of curiosity, we humbly asked them if we could take a few pictures of their rituals. Fortunately, the family was so welcoming that they invited us to witness the entire process and even asked us to participate! Moreover, they also patiently explained the rituals to us in detail.
Witnessing the rituals:
They prepared a Puja thali (prayer plate), Tika thali, auspicious offering plate, garlands, and other items required for the ceremony. The Puja thali had a lamp and citrus fruit, while the Tika thali contained rice and seven different colours. The offering plate was full with dry fruits, sel roti, sweets, bananas, boiled chana (chickpeas), chicken or mutton, and several other food items.
Once the brother was seated, his sister performed Aarti, moving the prayer plate clockwise in front of him. Thereafter, she made a circle around him with mustard oil. Then, she applied oil to her brother’s ears and hair. Next came the most colourful part of the ritual—the seven-coloured Tika. After applying a white base made with rice flour paste, she applied the seven colours vertically on his forehead. The seven colours signify the sister’s prayers for her brother to have a radiant, powerful, and diverse life.
After applying the Tika, she showered flowers over him and placed a beautiful marigold garland around his neck. In the end, she completed the ritual by offering him a gift.
What was most adorable:
She also performed a shorter version of the ritual with her sister-in-law and her niece (a new born baby). Interestingly, the brother then performed similar rituals for his sister, gave her a gift and, most importantly, bowed down before her.
This was something very new for us and particularly touching to witness. In many families across the Indian subcontinent, it is uncommon for men to bow down before women, except elderly or highly respected female family members. So, seeing a brother bow down before his sister as an integral part of the Bhai Tika ritual felt quite unique and special to us.
A big surprise!
And then came the biggest surprise—the family performed all the rituals with us as well! We had started as complete strangers who had simply asked permission to take a few pictures. But within a short time, we became part of their family rituals!
After the rituals, we all sat together and shared the food for the occasion. Indeed, their warmth, hospitality, and love touched our hearts to the core.
Hence, it became one of the most memorable experiences of our entire Nepal journey—something we will cherish throughout our lives. We will always remain grateful to this wonderful family for welcoming two strangers into their home.
Tips for experiencing Tihar
Now, if you are there in Nepal during Tihar, here are a few tips to experience the festival well and respectfully.
- First, note down all the interesting rituals through the five days (see above)
- On day-1 (Kak Tihar), wake up early to feed some crows, or watch people feed them in their backyards. They consider crows as messengers of Yama, the God of death. So, feeding the crows can bring them good luck and ward off grief.
- If you love dogs, you will love the day-2 (Kukur Tihar). Buy a marigold garland and some food and find a dog (maybe at a street corner) to treat them well.
- In the morning of day-3 (Lakshmi Puja), observe how people worship cows. And in the evening, walk around the street and neighbourhoods to witness beautifully decorated houses with flowers and diyas (oil lamps). If you are in Kathmandu, head to Darbar Square or Patan Square to see amazing diya decorations.
- Witnessing the unique ritual of self- worship (Mha Puja) for purification and empowerment can be an amazing experience on day-4.
- On day-5, if you try, someone will surely invite you to witness Bhai Tika, like we did in Pokhara.
- Third evening onwards, it’s highly rewarding to walk around the streets watching Deusi- Bhailo performances till late evening/ night.
- Enjoy local traditional delicacies like sel roti, fini roti, imarti jeri, anarsa and arsa.
Concluding Thoughts
We hadn’t planned our Nepal trip specifically for Tihar, but it turned out to be the most memorable part of our journey in Nepal. Through out our trip, we thoroughly enjoyed experiencing the festival and its traditions. Moreover, the welcoming families and warm people all around made our experience all the more enjoyable.
If you are planning a trip to Nepal, visiting during Tihar can offer a wonderful opportunity to experience the country’s festive spirit and cultural traditions firsthand. We are sure you will love being part of the celebrations as much as we did. If you want more tips on how to experience Tihar in Nepal, do write to us.
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