There are places one can visit any time of the year, and enjoy a different flavour each time. Dalhousie is one such place. The town is simply lovable in all seasons. Its location in the foothills of mighty Himalayan mountain peaks and laidback life makes Dalhousie appear like a town sleeping in the lap of the mountains.
Till now, I have visited Dalhousie twice- first as part of an official retreat in winter and second time with family in autumn. I vividly remember experiencing my first live snow-fall in Dalhousie during winter. It was such a lovely feeling to have the flying snow-flakes touch my skin for the first time! And in autumn, the atmosphere was so pleasant, and sky so clear that we could do whatever we wished to. I will go back to Dalhousie one day during the monsoon to walk in the clouds.
Dalhousie- the name itself oozes a colonial legacy. Hill stations are among the few colonial legacies that one would thank the British for. Like the other hill-stations, the main purpose of establishing Dalhousie was seeking refuge from the heat of the plains in summer.
Today, counted among the top hill stations of India, Dalhousie boasts of beautiful British era buildings and churches, and some heritage symbols of the freedom struggle of India. However, it is the views of mighty Himalayan mountain peaks, beautiful pine forests and meadows that attract the travel-souls the most.
To refer to more posts on Himalayan hill-stations in this site, or please check out: Darjeeling || Nainital.
Interesting history of Dalhousie
Lord Dalhousie, the then Governor General of India while looking for a new summer retreat, came across this region with lovely meadows among green mountains. Hailing from Scotland, perhaps he saw resemblance of the hills with his native place. Enticed by its natural beauty and cool environment in the summers, he bought five hills (Kathalagh, Potreyn, Terah, Bakrota and Bhangora) from the rulers of Chamba in exchange for relaxation in taxes. It was a fabulous deal for that time, and for the posterity alike.
In course of time, the town developed into a beautiful summer retreat with administrative buildings, shopping centers (Mall Road) and catholic churches. Besides, nearby places like Khajjiar also came into prominence with tourists thronging throughout the year.
Dalhousie, a sleepy town in the mountains
Unlike other hill stations in the Himalayas, it’s a relatively sleepy town in the mountains. At 1970 mt (~6460ft), it’s neither too high in the mountains like Ladakh nor that low like Rishikesh. It’s just about perfect elevation for a rejuvenating hill station.
Moreover, I enjoyed the slow pace of life here. Except for the main market near Gandhi chowk, the town is not too crowded. Or, maybe its design is such that crowd is always spread out, and secluded. We loved walking along the deserted road from Gandhi chowk to Subhas chowk, the two main crowd-centers in the town.
To be honest, the Mall Road is rather subdued in comparison to other expansive Mall Roads in Himalayan hill stations like Mussoorie and Shimla. It’s not long, and doesn’t have too many shops. If you are a big shopper, or a big foodie, it may actually disappoint you.
But if you are seeking peace and tranquility, Dalhousie will make you feel content. The many gulab-jamun vendors and the tandoor chaiwalas are the special attractions at the Mall Road.
For the shoppers, there is a Tibetan market just near the Gandhi Chowk. It’s an interesting, happening but small market place. Like all Tibetan markets across the Himalayas, their main offerings are the woolen wears and momos (dumplings).
Memorable experiences of Dalhousie in the mountains
1. Dalhousie's old world charm
The whole town looks old; roads that have been there since ages, rusty dilapidated buildings, old churches, and the old trees all around. I felt like nothing is changing over time!
Old things have a poetry about themselves. They invite you to tell their stories; you need an ear to listen. My two visits were 6 years apart; but I found nothing had changed. It’s this feeling of vintage and heritage that is so beautiful! Dalhousie can really make you fall in love with its old world charm and laidback life.
Do visit the St Andrew’s church and St Patrick’s at Balun, the St Francis’ Church at Subash Chowk, and St John’s Church at Gandhi Chowk.
Built in 1863, St. John’s Church near Gandhi Chowk is the oldest church in Dalhousie. Though it’s a protestant church, its architecture resembles the Victorian era Roman catholic churches of England. Not that big, but very cute looking and photogenic church it is.
2. Nature therapy in the mountains
Why does one visit a hill station? Of course, the majority would say that it’s the natural beauty of the place that attracts them the most. As I said above, Dalhousie presents itself in a different form in different seasons. From lush green in the summer-monsoon season, it changes into a white blanket in the winters.
I still remember the first morning view of the snow-capped Himalayas from the windows of my room. When the first day-light broke my sleep, eyes half closed, I got irritated at myself for not closing the curtains before sleeping! But then, buoy! The view of the white mountains opened my eyes instantly. It was a dreamy morning! Hardly did I feel like moving; felt like just sitting there looking at the snow-clad mountains in the horizon. But alas! There was an official engagement scheduled!
For enjoying snow-capped landscape, especially in the winters, it’s good to get outside of Dalhousie town and venture towards Kala top wildlife sanctuary.
Second time around in October, I loved the sun on my skin. Pleasant weather, lovely sunshine and clear skies presented abundant opportunities for photography. Pine covered beautiful mountains and green rolling meadows invite you to have an outdoor party throughout the day.
Dalhousie lies in the mountains at the western end of the Dhauladhar range. And the Pir Panjal range is not far from the sight either. Both ranges have snow-capped mountains, and are clearly visible from Dalhousie. To add to the beauty of Dalhousie’s landscape, the nearby mountains are green and wavy, perfect for hiking and jungle walking.
Other nature hotspots near Dalhousie:
There are a number of other interesting spots near Dalhousie for spending time with the mountains and nature.
- Kalatop, on the way to Khajjiar, is a lovely forest trail, especially good for enjoying snow-covered landscape in winter. Besides, there’s a small wildlife sanctuary to explore.
- Bakrota hill is another lovely spot to view the snow-capped mountains. The sight of pretty villages nestled in the mountains is special from up there.
- A small waterfall called Satdhara is just outside of Dalhousie precincts. From the drop-off point, it’s just a 20-minute hike to reach the base of the waterfall. We noticed large number of young crowd hanging out here in the evening. A small market place with painters and eateries add great charm to the landscape.
- Near Satdhara waterfalls, Panchpula is a popular picnic spot in lush green forest setting.
3. Khajjiar, the "mini-Switzerland"
My second favorite places in mountain valleys are the meadows, only next to the cascading rivers over rock-beds. Like Shangarh in the Great Himalayan National Park, Khajjiar (24 kms from Dalhousie) is a sleeping beauty. It feels blissful to lay down in the open grasslands gazing the vast sky, and doing nothing for hours. We actually did that. After a sumptuous meal at a nearby restaurant, we walked to the other side, and slept for more than an hour under the open sky.
A stroll across the meadows can recharge my batteries for weeks. With Dhauladhar mountains surrounding the meadow, a small lake in the middle, and strategically placed shops at one end of the meadow (near the 12th century Khajji Nag temple), Khajjiar looks gorgeous. It’s a photographer’s delight. We took tens of amazing photographs from different angles, and all around the meadow.
When The Swiss envoy to India, Mr. Willy P. Blazer visited Khajjiar in 1992, he was so enamored by the place that he termed it as “Mini Switzerland”. He also carried a stone from here with him to place it as a collage alongside stones from 160 other locations across the globe that resemble the Swiss beauty.
In the middle of the enchanting meadows, lies a lovely little circular lake. We were there just at the end of the monsoon season. So, the lake looked muddy. But in a few months time, it would become a gorgeous blue circle with lush green grassland and forests around it.
4. Boating in Chamera lake
One day, we planned a day-trip to Chamba. On the way, just 25 kms away from Dalhousie is the beautiful lake Chamera. It’s actually a man-made lake that is formed by the backwaters of a dam project over the river Ravi.
The first look of the Chamera lake while driving down to the lake-entry point was mesmerizing. A curvaceous blue beauty across mountains spread over 295 meters. As we slowly drove down the road, it kept running at one side of us till we reached the entry-point.
The lake offers some water sports options like boating, kayaking, fishing etc. The big boats carry groups of tourists around the lake explaining the topography and interesting facts about the area, overall, an interesting ride. Not far from the lake is a temple- Bhalei Mata temple. But one needs to climb a few hundred steps to reach there. It’s a small colouful temple with nice views around.
5. A little adventure doesn't hurt
Of course, being at a hill station, and not trekking over the hills doesn’t satisfy the soul. Adventure seekers choose to go on long multi-day treks, but we choose smaller one-day treks. The most popular trekking option in Dalhousie mountains is the Dainkund trek, and we did enjoy it a lot.
Dainkund Trek in Dalhousie Mountains
The mountains around Dalhousie offer a number of easy to moderate trekking options. Very near (13 kms) to Dalhousie, is the Dainkund trekking point. It’s an easy trek. Even our mom could actually make it to the half-way point! So, anyone can easily trek the whole distance of 2-3 kms.
Dainkund is the highest point (2755 mts~9738 ft) in the near-Dalhousie region, and gives wonderful views of the Dhauladhar range, and Pir Panjal range, and if you ask a local/ a guide, they can help you locate the Kailash mountains as well.
First part of the trek:
Like most treks, the first part of Dainkund trek passes through an easy hike dotted with several tea stalls and local vendors selling herbs and essential oils. However, my memory goes back to the two little girls we met on the trek, with bunnies in their hands. Both of them were so sweet and friendly! The smiles on their faces made my day! Plus, the way they posed for a picture! For me, that was the best picture (below) of this trip.
The Mid-point:
At the mid-point of the trek, there’s a good resting shade and a nice ridge-like section to sit and relax. The hike was not really taxing on the body. Even then, the views around and the meadows were inviting enough sit down and bask in the sun. Mom couldn’t trek beyond this point, but we kept hiking the gentle slope.
The second part of the trek:
As expected, the best views actually came after this point as the trek gained some elevation. It was in the second part only we could see the far away mountain ranges like the Pir Panjal range and the mount Kailash. After slowly hiking for about 2-3 hours, the trek ends at a small temple- Pholani Mata’s temple. Though the temple is rather modest, the 360 degree view from that point is worth trekking up to.
The whole trek (up and down) takes about 4-5 hours, and it’s totally worth spending a day up there.
Other trekking options:
6. In search of ancient heritage in Chamba
Our decision to spend a day in Chamba proved to be a great choice for us. The route from Dalhousie to Chamba, especially while nearing Chamba is absolutely scenic, and enjoyable. There is a bridge (Koti bridge) over the river Ravi just before reaching Chamba; ah! what a sight that was! We spent about 15 minutes near the bridge taking lovely pictures of Ravi flowing between the mountains.
Chamba is a great place for history and heritage lovers. The major heritage spots include:
Laxmi Narayan Temple:
This 10th century Hindu temple has a lot of religious and historical significance. Particularly, I like the typical shape of the chhatris and shell roof of Himachali temples. The designs are meant to protect the temples from snow-fall.
Legend has it that Raja Sahil Verman had to sacrifice 8 of his sons in the process of acquiring a rare marble from Vindhyanchal for the idol of Lord Vishnu. In the end, the eldest son was able to bring the marble to the temple.
Church of Scotland:
Significantly, a Hindu king Sham Singh built this Church for the Christian community in Chamba. It’s a lovely little church in the main market. Unfortunately, when we visited, it was not open to public due to covid-19 related restrictions. But, we could take a few pictures from a distance.
Bhuri Singh Museum:
Named after Raja Bhuri Singh, this museum houses great collection of artefacts from the Chamba region, like miniature paintings, huge doors from the palaces, and jewelry of the bygone era.
Rang Mahal:
It’s an 18th century palace built by Raja Umed Singh. Its design is an amalgamation of the British and Mughal architectural styles.
Dalhousie in the mountains : Travel tips
Best time to visit:
- Pleasant weather: Starting spring season in March, through summer and till the autumn till November
- Monsoon charm: Enjoy the rains from July to September
- Snow-fall lovers: Winter months of December to February
Day planning:
On an average, 3 days are good to explore the mountains and major places places of interest in and around Dalhousie. 1 day for local Dalhousie; 1 day for Dainkund, Kalatop and Khajjiar; 1 day for a day-trip to Chamba and Chamera lake. If you have an additional day, visit small villages near Dalhousie for stunning view of the snow-capped mountains and relax in the meadows.
How to reach:
Best way to reach Dalhousie is by taking an overnight train from Delhi/ Chandigarh to Pathankot, and hiring a taxi from there (2-3 hrs).
How to move around:
Though Dalhousie is in the mountains, the slopes across the town are not too steep. Walking around Dalhousie is enjoyable. If you like to spend the evening at the market, it’s advisable to stay close to either Gandhi chowk or Subhash chowk. For day-trips, hire a taxi. Though local buses are available, they take a lot of time; so, if you have enough time, take the local buses.
Where to stay:
Being a relatively popular hill station, it has all sorts of staying options from luxury resorts/ hotels to budget hotels and homestays.
Some suggestions for budget hotels: Grand View hotel | Hills n Meadows | Smart Hill Kalatop | Zostel Dalhousie | Mohan Palace | Chobhyal Cottage | Holiday Inn | Alps Resort | Cedar Villa Homestay | Hotel Mount View.
Some good places to eat:
- Restaurants/ Cafes: Old Sher-e-Punjab | Cafe Dalhousie | Kwality restaurant | Monga’s cafe | Bon Appetit | Moti Mahal.
- And don’t forget to have the mouth watering hot gulab jamuns and yummy tandoor chai (tea) at the Mall Road.
Concluding Remarks
Unlike the other hill stations in the Himalayas, Dalhousie is refreshingly peaceful. Though I was expecting a lot of crowd from Punjab and Himachal, it was a pleasant surprise to see Dalhousie and the mountains around it have a sleepy vibe. Besides, there are enough people around to have some action going.
We are not great shoppers; so, it didn’t really matter that there are not many shopping options. What we missed though was good restaurants and cafes. While on a leisure trip, food is an important part for most. Maybe some good cafes will come up there soon!
Thanks a lot for reading this article: “Dalhousie : a town sleeping in the lap of mountains”. We absolutely value your time and feedback. Please write to us about your experience in Dalhousie, or if you found this article useful.
Rupali
Travelling for some may just be visiting places but only a passionate traveller can put the details and experiences into such beautiful words.
stampedmoments
True, travel is in the details.
Thanks Rupali, as always, your words matter.
Soumen Chatterjee
The details of Dalhousie are quite interesting and mesmerizing. I really love the quite places and Dalhousie might be a perfect choice..the St Andrew’s church and St Patrick’s at Balun, the St Francis’ Church at Subash Chowk, and St John’s Church at Gandhi Chowk. are places to visit in Dalhousie which might be quite interesting.Khajjiar the mini Switzerland,looks gorgeous. It’s really a photographer’s delight. The first reading of the Chamera lake while driving down to the lake-entry point was mesmerizing and need to visit once. There are other natural hotspot which has its own charm. The main part is trekking Dainkund trek which must be very interesting to trek around 13 kms. Though there are other options of trekking also. The other important part was Chamba valley. Chamba is a great place for history and heritage lovers and there are many places to visit in and around chamba like Laxmi Narayan Temple, Church of Scotland,Bhuri Singh Museum and Rang Mahal. The final read was the travel guide which is really important for readers like us. A fantastic read.
stampedmoments
As always, you encourage us by reading and remembering the details of it.
I particularly loved the Chamba valley, and Kahjjiar meadows.
Thanks a lot.
Suma
The details and descriptions are so balancing . Not ruining the excitement of visiting and exploring the place but at the same time detailing about what one should not miss while taking the trip.
stampedmoments
I’m so glad you liked it. Keep reading, and giving feedback. Really helpful.
And yes, next time when you come to Delhi, don’t ask me to go out of Delhi! 🙂
Jayvanti Einjen
I was happy to be able to trek the Dainkund peak. And Khajjiar is also a lovely place. We will go back.
stampedmoments
Definitely, we are going back 🙂
I remember sleeping in the Khajjiar meadows…haha…
ancientterminus
Reading this reminded me of our time at Dalhousie.
Getting up to Khajjiar is one of the most picturesque destinations in the thick cedar forests (activities include Zorbing and Paragliding).
One can witness mesmerizing views of the Pir Panjal range and the Dhauladhar range when trekking to Dainkund
stampedmoments
Absolutely well said. It’s a nature lover’s paradise. So many things to do, and for not doing anything, too!
I loved the Khajjiar meadows as well, who wouldn’t!
Thanks for your thoughtful words.