If you are a tea lover, perhaps your morning cup of tea comes from Darjeeling. And there is no better place to enjoy that cup of tea than in the lap of Himalayas. So, pay attention, perhaps Darjeeling is calling you. Responding to this call, I have been there many a times. Each time I have enjoyed a different charm of the most popular hill station in north-east India. Though there are quite a few things to see, and do, essentially Darjeeling for me is all about tea gardens and magic of the Himalayas.
Nestled in the high Himalayan mountains of West Bengal (India) overseeing the Kanchenjunga range bordering Sikkim (India), Nepal and Bhutan, Darjeeling’s location couldn’t be any better.
{If you love mountains, read about more Himalayan hill stations: Nainital ||| Dalhousie}
Its name and history:
Darjeeling in Tibetan translates as the “place of thunderbolt” (“dorji” means thunderbolt, and “ling” means place). It rains (with thunders) quite a lot here, and during the monsoon, it actually looks like a hill floating in the clouds! If you ask me about my favorite hill station for monsoon, the answer is a resounding ‘Darjeeling’, followed by Mussoorie.
Darjeeling’s history doesn’t stretch beyond the 19th century, and owes a lot to the British. At different times, it was part of the kingdoms of Gurkhas (Nepal), Bhutan and Sikkim. But once it came under the British in early 19th century, it started taking shape of a hill station in course of time.
British interest in Darjeeling:
The British invested heavily in its infrastructure and economy which included tea plantations and the famous Darjeeling Himalayan Railway. For the British officers operating from Kolkata (click) those days, Darjeeling served as a summer resort. Plus, the tea gardens of Darjeeling provided the much loved beverage to the British people back home. Though Darjeeling always had the magic of the Himalayas, its tea gardens added another layer of charm to it.
My love affair with Darjeeling and its tea gardens
It was in 2010, on my first visit, I first saw the tea gardens of Darjeeling. I must say, it was love at first sight. Before visiting, I had seen the tea gardens of Munnar in Kerala (click to read). Sometime later, I also visited the tea gardens of Coonoor near Ooty (click) and Dharamshala while trekking in Triund (click). However, the tea gardens of Darjeeling are in a league of their own, maybe because of the Himalayas.
I’m not sure if I love Darjeeling because I’m a tea lover, or I started loving tea after I fell in love with Darjeeling! Actually, in my younger days, I used to be a coffee lover; but later in life, I have turned a tea lover. Though this transition has definitely happened post my first Darjeeling trip, I’m not sure if it was because of that! In any case, my love for Darjeeling, its tea gardens, and the tea is beyond doubt.
The landscapes of lesser Himalayas, from Himachal or Kashmir (click) to the North-East India, are soothing to the eyes, and serene. However, it’s the tea gardens that make Darjeeling more charming. Up and down like waves in the ocean, but smooth like the calm waters of a lake. And when the clouds come along, the landscape becomes pure poetry. Talking of poetry, here’s a lovely poem I got on the internet:
Darjeeling:
“Beautiful Darjeeling in West Bengal I heard you call my name.
Like a siren you have lured me to your slopes and sun filled glades.
How could I resist the urge to come and join you there.
To be assailed by your beauty, smell your perfumed air”.
– Joe Cole
History of tea gardens in Darjeeling
It’s widely accepted that tea has been a popular beverage in China for around 4500 years! Legend has it that emperor Shen Nung, around 2737 BC, accidentally discovered tea when strands of tea leaves fell into his warm water. However, ceramic cups have been found to be in use in the middle east in ancient times, most probably for drinking tea!
Tea is perhaps the best gift from the British to the Indians. Today, Indians just love their cup of tea/ chai. Though tea is reported to be in use in the 17th century India as a semi-medicinal drink, it was the British who turned it to be a popular beverage in India.
Though tea was grown in Assam prior to the British, commercial tea plantation was introduced by the British in 1837. First tea plantations in Darjeeling started in 1841 when Archibald Campbell (a British officer) started working on developing Darjeeling as a hill station. The first three tea gardens of Darjeeling, established by the British in 1852 are: Tukvar (now: Puttabong), Steinthal and Alubari tea gardens.
Tea production and consumption:
Today, Darjeeling produces ~14,000 tons of tea in India, which is only about 1% of total tea production (~1.3 million tons: 2022-23) in India. But Darjeeling is famous for its quality of tea, mainly black tea. In fact, its’s so popular that most of the tea produced here is exported.
Assam is the largest tea producer in India followed by West Bengal. And, India is the second largest tea producer after China (~2.2 million tons).
However, India doesn’t even figure in the top 50 tea-drinking countries! The biggest tea drinkers live in Turkey (3.16 kg per capita) followed by Ireland, United Kingdom, Pakistan and Iran.
Tea Trivia
- There are around 3,000 different types of tea.
- Astoundingly, it’s estimated that three billion cups of tea are consumed globally per day. Considering that world population is around eight billion, that’s a pretty high ratio.
- Do you know, the art of reading tea leaves is called tasseography?
- The opium war (1837-42) between Britain and China was fought over the tea!
- The Boston Tea Party, a protest against the Tea Act in 1773. It led the way to American Revolution and eventually American freedom from the British.
- While a cup of coffee has more caffeine than a cup of tea, a gram of tea leaves has more caffeine than a gram of coffee beans!
- In early times in Britain, tea was so expensive that only the elites could afford it!
Tea by sea, cha by land:
Very interestingly, most languages in the world refer to tea by one of these two derivatives- “tea” or “cha”. Countries that got it via land-based trade routes, say “cha” after Mandarin word “cha”, while countries that got it via sea routes call it tea after the Chinese word “té”.
For examples, English: “tea”; Dutch “thee”; Italian “tè”; German: “Tee,” . Russian: “chay”; Turkish: “çay”; Arabic: “shay”; India: “chai”.
High Tea:
High tea became a practice during the Victorian era when people ate an evening meal with tea. During the industrial revolution, in order to give the workers a much needed break from work, high tea was introduced along with food. Basically, high tea was a combination of afternoon tea and the evening meal. This is how tea became more broad-based from being a elite class beverage in the beginning.
Why is Darjeeling Tea best in the world?
‘There is a great deal of poetry and fine sentiment in a cup of tea’
– Ralph Waldo Emerson
As much as I love my cup of tea, I cannot claim to be a tea connoisseur at all. However, I have seen people swear about Darjeeling tea as the best in the world. Indeed, its aroma is just perfect; not too mild, not too strong. As Darjeeling tea has got a Geographic Indication (GI) tag, it means it’s one of its kind.
The foothills of Himalayas provide the tea plants the perfect elevation, and frequent cloudy days provide it the necessary cool atmosphere through out the year. Connoisseurs say that the first flush Darjeeling tea is the “Champaign of teas”.
Whether it’s the first flush tea, or the regular lemon tea on the streets, Darjeeling tea wins the hearts of tea lovers every time.
In Praise of Tea
Refreshing drink – there’s nothing finer,
Darjeeling tea in fine bone china,
Mark the subtle, fresh aroma
Spiralling up in wisps of steam.
Experiencing Tea Processing at Happy Valley Tea Estate
One fine morning, in bright sunshine, I decided to visit some tea gardens. Perhaps the closest tea gardens to the Mall (where I was staying) in Darjeeling is the Happy Valley Tea Estate. As it’s only about 1-2 kms from the Mall, it’s an enjoyable walkable distance.
Following the google maps, I started walking towards the Raj Bhawan. With the help of a local person, I could identify the small road from Raj Bhawan that took me directly to the tea estate.
Happy Valley Tea Estate:
Established in 1854, spread over 440 acres of land, this is among the oldest tea gardens of Darjeeling. Happy Valley Tea Estate got its name after the merger of two tea gardens in 1929- Wilson Tea Estate (estd. 1854) and Windsor Tea Estate (established around that time).
When I reached at their processing factory at ~9.30 AM, the guide informed me that visits would commence at 10 AM. So, in the meantime, he advised me to take a walk around the tea gardens. Such a lovely setting for the tea estate! Located just outside the city limits, the sprawling tea estate gives an amazing view of parts of the city on one side, and the spectacular Himalayan valleys on the other.
After the harsh winters, spring brings the first flush tea leaves, gentle green, tender leaves that give the best aroma. Fortunately, I was there in the spring, and I saw these tender leaves for myself. The first flush tea is the most demanded of all, and thus, is the costliest tea. As the summer becomes harsher, the second and third flushes bring lesser quality tea.
The neatly cut tea bushes in the estate spread over the hill slopes were so charming! Joyfully, I walked around, talked to a few locals and loved taking pictures of the poetic landscape.
Tea factory tour:
When I got back to the processing factory, the guide was already there. Without wasting any time, I got an entry ticket (for Rs. 100) and took a tour of the factory. She took me around the factory while explaining the various tea types, and their processing methods.
At the end of the tour, she gave me a tea-tasting experience. There were five types of tea on the table- white tea, green tea, first flush black tea, all season-mix black tea, and green tea with tulsi (holy basil) flavour. Quite obviously, the quality of tea was indeed excellent. Expectedly, they had a selling counter at the factory. So, I bought two packets of second-flush black tea as first-flush was a bit too costly for me.
The tour was not quite impressive though. Because, it was too short, and sketchy. Besides, they didn’t allow photography in the processing area too; apparently to protect their trade secret. With some attention to details, and applying a story-telling method, the experience can be improved significantly. Even if it means an increase in ticket price, so be it.
Learning from the tea factory tour:
Apart from enjoying the views of the tea gardens, and tasting quintessential Darjeeling tea, I learnt a few things:
- All the tea varieties come from two plant species- Camellia Sinensis that is originally from China, and Camellia Sinensis Assamica, native of Assam, India. It takes approximately 3 years for a tea plant to be ready for harvesting. And only after 12 years, a plant can produce seeds.
- Black tea undergoes the longest process of oxidation and White tea undergoes the shortest. Thus, white tea is the most nutritious, and best for health.
- Interestingly, the guide told me that tea tastes better if you slurp it loud! I have no idea if that’s true! Though slurping is generally seen as bad manners in the U.S., it’s actually considered as a show of respect in China!
The best tea gardens in and around Darjeeling
Now, there are 87 tea gardens in Darjeeling, and quite few more in nearby places like Kurseong and Mirik. So, visitors often confuse about which ones to visit. Though one may visit any tea estate near one is staying, here’s a list of the most iconic tea gardens of Darjeeling.
Near Darjeeling town:
- Happy Valley Tea Estate: Nearest to Darjeeling Mall; walkable distance; established 1854.
- If you love heritage, Puttabong Tea Garden; Steinthal Tea Garden and Alubari Tea Garden are the first three tea gardens of Darjeeling; established in 1852.
- Visit Singtom Tea Garden, established in 1854 to see the oldest tea resort in India.
A little far from Darjeeling town:
- On the way to Mirik, Okayti Tea Garden (organic) and Gopaldhara Tea Garden are the best ones
- Visit Makaibari Tea Garden in Kurseong to see the first tea processing factory in Darjeeling
- Castleton Tea Garden in Kurseong is popular for the Hanuman statue view point
- Glenburn Tea Estate is on the way to Gangtok; Rangeet and Rungdung rivers flow nearby.
Darjeeling and its Tea Gardens : Travel tips
Best months to visit:
- For Kanchenjunga view, visit during October- March, autumn-winter seasons.
- For enjoying the clouds, (My favorite) visit during June- Sept, the monsoon times.
- To get relief from the heat, visit during Apr- June, summer seasons.
How to reach:
- Flight: The nearest airport is at Bagdogra, some 95 kms away from Darjeeling. From there, a taxi will take 3 hrs to reach Darjeeling.
- Train: Nearest railway station is New Jalpaigudi, a few kms from the main city- Siliguri.
Where to stay:
Some Budget Hotel suggestions:
Hotel Broadway (Hill Cart Road) || Dekeling Resort (Gandhi Road) || Classic Guest House (Near Chowrasta, the Mall). || Magnolia Residency (Dr Zakir Husai Road) || Hotel Revolver (Gandhi Road) || Hotel Tibet Home (Gandhi Road). || Hotel Capital (Gandhi Road) || Happy Valley Homestay (Jorethang Road, Chauk Bazar). || Hotel Golden Orchid (Dr Zakir Husai Road) || Pine Touch Retreat (Kutchery Road, Mall Road).
Popular Tea Resorts to stay:
In order to appreciate the beauty of tea gardens up close, staying in a tea-resort is a great idea. However, they are mostly expensive. So, I have never stayed in one. However, there are a few budget tea-resorts; though one has to research a bit for that. Here’s a list of such resorts:
Singtom Tea Estate || Ging Tea House || Tumsong Tea Retreat || Makai Bari Bungalows. || Sourenee Tea Estate || Yule Tea Retreat || Poobong Tea Resort || Goomtee Tea Retreat (budget friendly).
Moving around:
Within Darjeeling, walking is the best option, and most enjoyable. For nearby places, it’s good to hire a local taxi as local public transport is not reliable.
Best places for tea tasting:
As Darjeeling has the most beautiful tea gardens, and produces the best tea in the world, no trip would be complete without tasting its iconic tea. Some suggestions:
- To sip a cup of best Darjeeling tea while enjoying the view of mountains, Nathmulls tea store and sunset lounge is a great option.
- Happy Golden Cafe (tea from Happy valley tea gardens in Darjeeling).
- House of Tea (an outlet of Goodricke who also are famous for their tea gardens in Darjeeling).
- If you are fond of cafe-vibes with live music, Glenary’s cafe is the best in the town, especially in the evening.
- Golden Tips (near the Mall; sip your tea with a splendid view of the mountains).
- Or, while taking a stroll at the Mall, sip a cup of lemon tea from the street vendors.
Where to eat:
- Keventers (Nehru Road): estd. 1911 by Edward Keventers; popular for breakfast.
- Himalayan Coffee (Nehru Road).
- For bakery, Glenary’s (Nehru Road), is the best choice.
- Tom & Jerry’s cafe (Nr. Chowrasta).
- If you love pan-cakes, do visit Revolver cafe (Gandhi Road).
- For Tibetan food, look for Kunga restaurant (Gandhi Road).
- For Bengali/ Indian breakfast, Sonam’s Kitchen (Dr Zakir Husain Road, Chowrasta) is good.
- Frank Ross cafe (Nehru Road)- multi-cuisine.
Concluding Note : Darjeeling Tea Gardens and Himalayas
Darjeeling’s tea gardens perched over the Himalayas look beautifully fascinating, don’t they? In fact, I can’t really stop talking about them while talking of Darjeeling. However, the cultural landscape of Darjeeling is equally fascinating with so many cultures coming together to live harmoniously.
Honestly, I won’t have enough of Darjeeling ever. So, I will definitely keep going back to the enchanting hill station. Sometimes, I and Parina agree that Darjeeling might be the place where we would love to retire. Let’s see!
Hope you liked this article on Darjeeling and its tea gardens in the foothills of the Himalayas. If you did, please write to us. And if you have been there already, do share your experience with us.
Himanshu
Lovely, even I’m planning and hope I’ll go there soon. What is the name of the 18th century hotel you have mentioned?
stampedmoments
Thank you so much for your feedback!
I’m sure an avid traveller like you will be there pretty soon.
The name of the hotel is written there only- Old Bellevue Hotel.
Gilda Baxter
Wow this place looks amazing. So much to do here and the mountain scenery is something that really appeals to me. What are the temperatures like during the monsoon? Does it rain every day? Definitely a place for my travel wish list.
stampedmoments
Hi Gilda! Thanks for reading, and sharing your thoughts.
Monsoon temperatures in Darjeeling vary between 13- 20 degree celcius; perfect for leisure.
It rains a lot there, but not all the time; expect typical tropical monsoon. First part of the day maybe sunny, and later it may rain.
But not everyday; you will have enough time to walk around and enjoy the place and the weather.
Ramanjeet
Very precisely written. I have saved the itinerary and travel tips which is very helpful and indeed will be helpful when I visit. I am already planning a visit while reading it again and again
stampedmoments
I’m so glad that it’s useful for someone like you.
Your reading, and taking time out to share your feedback is appreciated.
Thanks a lot; keep connected.
Amit kumar paul
These places I have seen before make me want to go again and again.The places are so beautiful that I think there is no other place like West Bengal.
stampedmoments
I’m sure you must have been there multiple times.
I agree, West Bengal is a beautiful state, with a lot of places and interesting culture.
Thanks for the feedback. Please keep connected.
Jitendra Mallick
Very informative piece of information for tourist. unfortunately, I didn’t have this during my last visit a month back to Darjeeling but would certainly love to visit again and will try not to miss a ride on “Darjeeling Himalayan Railways”
stampedmoments
Thanks Jitendra.
Yes, definitely the DHR is a major heritage not to miss.
Always a next time!
SOUMEN CHATTERJEE
It’s an excellent read, even coming from the state of West Bengal, i didn’t explored that much. Though I have visited once in 2015 with my family and visited few places mentioned in your blog. After reading this i would like to visit once again. Truely a wonderful place to visit ,though some places are really croudy and even had some bad experience but overall it’s really fantastic place.
stampedmoments
When we visit as tourists, we miss a lot of important places.
A little bit of research before visiting a place helps a lot.
Thanks for the feedback though.
Suma
The systematic and detailed write up is very impressive. It makes easy for anyone to get an outline as how and when they must plan their visits and where to stay. This post has definitely put Darjeeling in my must visit hill stations list
stampedmoments
It’s an effort on our part to give some value to our readers.
We are glad that it’s useful to you.
Thanks Suma, as always for your encouraging words!
Prachi
Loved reading it..felt like ‘should already be planning for a trip to Darjeeling’ given that monsoons are here.. thank you for nicely weaving the place with your personal experience ..it gives such a warm feeling while reading.
stampedmoments
Glad that you liked it. Yes, monsoons are indeed an amazing time to be in Darjeeling.
Thanks a lot for reading, and sharing your feedback.
Keep connected.
रवि कुमार
दार्जिलिंग के वारे में काफी वृस्तित् बताया। धन्यवाद
stampedmoments
Thank you so much Ravi ji.
Keep connected.
Santosh debats
Good information.It will help those who are want to visit the Darjeeling.
stampedmoments
Glad that you liked, Santosh.
Thanks a lot. Keep engaging with our blog.
Rajalaxmi Swain
While reading I was enjoying Darjeeling with you people. One day I must visit this beautiful place.
stampedmoments
Glad to know that. One day, let’s travel together.
All of us, with your little champs!
iraivan
Beautiful writing dear….
stampedmoments
Thanks a lot for your appreciation.