Darjeeling: Best things to do at my favorite hill station

Clouds romancing the mountains is the most enchanting sight I can imagine. To much of my liking, most part of the year, it rains in Darjeeling, the land of thunderbolts. In a matter of minutes, the bright sunshine can give way to grey clouds. No wonder then the British just loved it! Situated at an elevation of 2045 mts (~6709 ft), the weather remains cool through out the year. Indeed, Darjeeling is as charming as it gets. If you are planning to visit Darjeeling, here are my recommendations on the best things to do at my favorite hill station in India.

What makes Darjeeling so special:

I love the silky touch of the clouds on my skin. When they come rushing and engulf me from all sides, it feels like they will sweep me away over the mountains. Interestingly, when there’s no cloud during the winters, there’s fog! So, one is never away from that misty vibe!

When it’s not cloudy or misty, one is treated with the magnificent views of Kanchenjunga mountain range. The blue- green valleys, layer after layer, present stunning vistas of the Himalayas. Add to this gorgeous panorama, the charming tea gardens of Darjeeling. And you get the best mountain panorama.

{If you love tea gardens, do check out: Munnar in Kerala ||| Ooty- Coonoor in Tamil Nadu}

If you talk about Darjeeling, and not talk about its iconic mountain railways- the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, it’s not fair. Once the lifeline of transportation between the mountain town and the plains, today it’s a world heritage!

Further, sandwiched between India and Nepal, and not far from Tibet, Darjeeling has evolved a great mix of culture. People from different ethnic origins have brought with them different religious traditions, festivals and food. This makes this hill station so unique!

{Fond of Himalayan destinations? You may like to read: Dalhousie ||| Kashmir ||| Great Himalayan National Park}

Darjeeling, a cultural potpourri

It’s a pleasure walking around Darjeeling observing the cultural potpourri that it is. For centuries, it has been home to people from a number of cultures like the Gorkhas, Newaris and Sherpas of Nepal, Lepchas and Bhutias of Skikkim, Khampas and Kiratis from Tibet, apart from Bengalis from the mainland West Bengal.

Interestingly, though Darjeeling is part of the state of West Bengal, due to its location, it’s mostly inhabited by people from other states or neighboring countries. In fact, Darjeeling became part of West Bengal only after Indian independence in 1947. Prior to 1947, owing to presence of the British, Christianity also had a significant presence in Darjeeling. Besides, as it’s a major tourist place, thousands of tourists from all over India would be found walking around.

All these people mean all their cultures as well- different kinds of dresses, foods, languages, religions and shrines. I was particularly amused by the small roadside Buddhist and Hindu shrines all over the place. Some of these shrines actually house both Buddhist and Hindu deities, as a mark of peaceful co-existence. In fact, I noticed a street-shrine that had representation of all the major faiths- Hindu, Muslim, Christianity and Buddhism.

My experiences of Darjeeling

A winter whirlwind trip:

In December 2010, when I was on my way to Tripura to be part of a dear colleague’s wedding, I thought of a pit stop in Siliguri to meet up one of my best friends- Silu. He was living in Siliguri those days. To make the occasion memorable, we took a drive up the hills to Darjeeling. We spent a night there, and drove around the place the next day. But because the trip was not planned, we couldn’t explore much beyond a few touristy places. Looking back, I cherish my first visit to the iconic tea gardens of Darjeeling.

A monsoon sojourn:

June 2019 trip in the monsoon is more memorable though. It was a family trip- me, Parina, Babloo (cousin) and Lipu (brother). While I and Parina flew to Bagdogra airport from Delhi, Babloo took a train from Kolkata. We met up at the hotel (Old Main Bellevue hotel) in Darjeeling in the evening. Next morning, my brother joined us there. The old hotel was not really luxurious or modern, but being built in 1872 had a heritage vibe!

I am a big fan of hill stations in monsoon, and no hill station is better than Darjeeling when it rains. Talking of rains, I also fondly remember visiting Mussoorie (click), Lansdowne and Nainital (click) during monsoons.

Through the day, it was cloudy, and drizzled a bit. So, we had a great time walking around to explore the whole place. Afterwards, we proceeded to Sikkim.

Enjoying the spring vibes:

Last month (April), after spending a week in Sikkim, I decided to enjoy the spring vibes in Darjeeling, and enjoy some of the best things to do at my favorite hill station. This time, the weather was just perfect, and for most part, there were clouds again! However, there was enough sunshine to feel on the skin.

During my three days, I explored the markets well, experienced tea-tasting, and visited Mirik one day. On my way back, also visited Kurseong, a lovely place with amazing tea gardens.

Best things to do in Darjeeling

Like all hill stations developed by the British, Darjeeling offers medieval colonial architecture, a bustling market place, majestic mountain views, and great flora & fauna. However, what makes Darjeeling stand out are its tea gardens, the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway and heritage Buddhist monuments. Let me share with you my list of best things to do in Darjeeling, my favorite hill station.

1. A leisurely walk along the ridge

To start with, a leisurely stroll around the Mall road along the ridge area is surely one of the best things to do in Darjeeling. Unlike the other British-established hill stations in India where market places dominate, here it’s a peaceful walk with views.

Though the main market is crowded, the Mall and the upper ridges of the town are peaceful, and great for walking around. I clearly remember that monsoon trip when we kept walking around the ridge area the whole day! We started the day with a great breakfast at Keventer’s (good old school cafe popular for non-veg sandwiches, sausages, bacons, etc). It was drizzling a bit, but was enjoyable.

We took a leisurely stroll from the Mall to the Shrubbery Nightingale Park, then up to the Padmaja Naidu Zoological Park and Himalayan Mountaineering Institute. From there we walked back on a circular route to Chowrasta via Mall Road and Observatory Hill- Mahakal temple. Here’s a brief account of that walk.

The Darjeeling Mall/ Chowrasta:

Also known as Chowrasta, the Mall is the central point of Darjeeling tourist area. It’s not the same as the Mall road; the Mall road starts from here. I love the morning and late night vibes there. But most tourists love its evening time hustle and bustle with shopping and eating options.

My favorite place at the Mall is the Oxford Bookstore, established some 70 years ago. Built in typical hill-style architecture of fretwork and pitched roof, it’s a lovely landmark on the Chowrasta. It sells some of the best books on the Himalayas, Darjeeling, Sikkim, Nepal, Bhutan and Tibet.

Another notable mention is the Fiesta cafe; looks classy, great food as well. Adjacent to the Mall is a street market called the Mall Market, especially popular for woolens and accessories. At one end of the Chowrasta, behind the statue of Nepali poet Bhanubhakta Acharya, is an open-air theater. When there’s nothing happening there, it’s a nice place to hangout. Besides, you may take a leisurely horse-ride around Chowrasta, if you like! My favorite thing to do is sipping a cup of lemon tea while watching people do their things.

The Mall Road used to be a mountain-view walking route in the times of the British. Today it has street shops along the way, though not as busy as the other Mall Roads in Mussoorie or Shimla. However, it offers wonderful views of the Himalayan valleys and lush green forests.

St. Andrew’s Church:

At five minutes’ walk from the Mall towards the Raj Bhawan, is St. Andrew’s Church. Built in 1843, it’s a beautiful Anglican church named after the patron saint of Scotland. Built atop a small hill, the oldest church of Darjeeling offers a lovely ambience. If you are there, check out a brass plaque dedicated to Lt. General Lloyd, the “discoverer” of Darjeeling in 1828. He had signed the deed for East India Company with the King of Sikkim to get administrative control of Darjeeling.

Shrubbery Nightingale Park:

At 10 minutes’ walk from the Mall, lies a beautiful public park in the Richmond hill area, called the Shrubbery Nightingale park. It’s a pretty park, but more importantly, it offers some of the best views of the snow-capped Kanchenjunga peaks. In the good old days of the British period, lovely British women would converge for a leisurely chit-chat with tea here, then called the Shrubbery, a private courtyard of Sir Thomas Tartan.

Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park:

A zoo is not the best place to see wild animals. But if you cannot climb all the way up to snowy mountains to see a snow leopard, then your second best option is a zoo only. Darjeeling zoo or the Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park is a breeding ground for alpine animals like red panda, snow leopard, Tibetan wolf, and other endangered species. If you are an animal lover, it’s a great place to spend a few hours. We walked around the park a bit, but didn’t explore too much as we had other priorities for the day.

Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI):

In honour of the first mountaineers (Tenzing Norgay Sherpa and Sir Edmund Hillary) to scale Everest, the then Prime Minister of India (Pt. Nehru) had inaugurated the HMI in 1954. Today it’s one of the premier mountaineering institutes of the world. Visiting this place was an inspirational experience.

Kanchenjunga view:

Kanchenjunga is the third highest mountain peak in the world, and has an elevation of 8,586 mts (28,169 ft). The entire view of the five peaks in the Kanchenjunga range is called the “Sleeping Buddha” with the Mt. Kumbhakarna as the head, Mt. Pandhim as the feet and Kanchenjunga as the body.

Its snow-peaks are visible from Darjeeling clearly, but not in all seasons. The best months to have a clear view of the Kanchenjunga are October to January, and then spring months of March- early April. February remains a little foggy, and it would be cloudy in other months.

The best view point for Kanchenjunga is the Tiger Hill, especially at sunrise. It appears clear, and changes colour from red to orange, yellow and white in a matter of minutes! A mesmerizing sight! Some other vantage points are Batasia Loop, and several points on the Mall Road.

Would you believe, in my three visits, I haven’t been able to have a clear view of the Kanchenjunga yet! Of course, because, it had clouds and mist all the time! But there’s always a next time!

Side note: If you are interested in a better view of the Kanchenjunga, Sandakphu (84 kms) is the place for you. It actually offers the views of four of the five highest peaks in the world (Everest, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse and Makalu), except the second highest peak- K2 (Godwin Austin), situated in Pakistan.

Observatory Hill & Mahakal temple:

It takes a little hike from the Mall Road to reach the Observatory Hill from where one can enjoy the panoramic views of the mountains. A little up from there is the Mahakal temple. Though it’s a small temple, the peaceful ambiance is worth visiting the place. Interestingly, this Hindu temple has significant Buddhist influence- prayer flags, prayer wheels, etc.

2. Enchanting Tea Gardens of Darjeeling

The most lovable views of Darjeeling are the enchanting tea gardens perched in the lower Himalayas. The rolling landscapes look like as if someone has artfully cut them out of the mountains! Undoubtedly, this has to be next on the list of best things to do in Darjeeling.

You know, which is the world’s most venerable tea? It’s the DARJEELING TEA. Its weather, soil, strategic location, and atypical processing gives Darjeeling tea its aromatic flavor, and makes it a favorite world over. With 87 tea estates, Darjeeling is among the top tea producers in the country, and gives employment to more than 50,000 workers.

The closest tea gardens to the main town of Darjeeling is the Happy Valley Tea Estate. Being established in 1854, it’s one of the oldest tea gardens in Darjeeling. They offer a nice guided tea tour including their processing factory for only Rs. 100. Besides, because you are in Darjeeling, don’t forget to pick some packs of tea for your home.

If you are especially interested in tea gardens Darjeeling, do read our detailed blog: Tea gardens of Darjeeling.

3. Darjeeling Himalayan Railways (DHR)

‘Darjeeling Himalayan Railways’ (DHR), now called ‘Toy train’ is reason enough to visit Darjeeling. It’s a 2-ft gauge train that runs from New Jalpaigudi to Darjeeling since 1881. One of the three Mountain Railways of India to form a UNESCO World Heritage, DHR is the prized possession of Darjeeling. Its long history and the terrain over which it runs with spectacular views make it one of the most fascinating things to explore in Darjeeling. (Read about another (in-)famous railway: Death Railway)

When we reached the Batasia Loop, the newer diesel version of the train was at the station. We had to wait for an hour to have a sight of the old vintage version of the steam locomotive. I was absolutely ecstatic to see that black beauty enter the Batasia Loop, stop for a while and move away slowly making that typical noise of the steam engine (chhuk-chhuk-chhuk).

We would have taken a ride in the train if tickets were available; however, there is always a next time! Before leaving the Batasia Loop, we spent a few minutes at the War Memorial nearby. Besides, the panoramic view of Darjeeling from there is absolutely spectacular. Thus, DHR has to be on everyone’s list of best things to do in Darjeeling.

Just to put things in perspective:

First public steam railway in the world was designed by George Stephenson- 1825, England
First steam railway introduced by the British in India: 1837, Madras (Chennai)
Darjeeling Himalayan Railway started operation- 1881, New Jalpaigudi- Darjeeling.

4. Beautiful Buddhist Monuments

I am really fond of the colourful Buddhist monasteries, and Darjeeling has plenty of them. The old Ghoom monastery (Yiga Choeling), Dali monastery and Peace Pagoda (Japanese temple) are the prominent ones. Whether you are fond of Buddhism or not, the lovely architecture of the monasteries will attract you for sure. So, do keep this in your best things to do in Darjeeling.

Dali Monastery:

Built in 1971, Dali monastery, or Druk Sangag Choeling represents the Kargyupa sect of Buddhism from Tibet. I love the colourful vibrancy of its building. It’s the largest monastery in Darjeeling; houses about 200 monks. Unlike other Buddhist prayer rooms, here in front of the large prayer wheels, there are chairs to sit and pray! There’s a school and a cafe in the campus too. Besides, the view of the mountains from the campus is spectacular. So, it’s a good place to slowly walk around and enjoy the ambience.

Old Ghoom Monastery:

There are two main monasteries in Ghoom: Yiga Choeling (old), Samten Choeling (new). As the new one is on the main road, most of the tourist vehicles take the tourists to the new one. But the old Ghoom monastery is more important from a heritage point of view. So, one must ask for the old one, which is not easily accessible. There’s a narrow road that goes up from Ghoom station to this monastery. Because it’s narrow, there’s often traffic jam, and thus, the local tourist vehicles avoid going there.

However, if you are interested in heritage, you must visit this monastery, about 700 meters hike from the main road. I hiked up to the monastery; it took me some 15 minutes to reach there.

Yiga Choeling was established in 1850 by a Mongolian astrologer. The 15-ft high Maitreya Buddha statue is the main attraction here.

Peace Pagoda/ Japanese Temple:

The Peace Pagoda or the Japanese temple is a spectacular white stupa, established in 1992. It represents the Nipponzan- Myohoji school of Buddhism born in Japan. Nichidatsu Fujii, popular as Fujii Guruji had laid its foundation stone. If you have visited Dhauli in Odisha, there’s a similar peace pagoda called Shanti Stupa, built by the same Guruji. The campus is beautiful, with a temple adjacent to the peace pagoda. It’s worth spending a few hours in its serene atmosphere.

5. Explore Darjeeling Markets

Most people turn up at hill stations for vacations and leisure trips. Obviously, food and shopping are the important things on their mind. Main markets and streets of Darjeeling offer wonderful options for all pocket sizes. Talking of markets at hill stations, I love the Mall Road in Mussoorie the most, followed by that of Shimla. However, Darjeeling is not far behind.

Among the best things to shop in Darjeeling are woolens, Tibetan hand-crafted products, artificial jewelry, and of course, tea. The best markets near Chowrasta are: Nehru Market, Gandhi Market, and the Mall Market. For some cheap shopping, one can visit Pashupatinagar (Indo-Nepal border town), on the way to Mirik.

Some of the cafes and restaurants are really amazing, reminiscent of the British era breakfast style. They look classy, and offer great ambience. My favorite cafes include the Glenary’s and the Keventer’s on the Nehru road; I love their bakery and breakfast. But Chinese and Tibetan foods are especially popular among the crowds gathering around roadside eateries.

6. Day trips from Darjeeling

Though Darjeeling is indeed popular for its tea gardens and the magic of the Himalayas, there are quite a few other amazing places to explore around it.

Kalimpong: 50 kms; another hill station, mini-version of Darjeeling.
Mirik: 60 kms; a beautiful lake and a monastery
Especially for cheap shopping, visit Pashupatinagar on the way to Mirik
On the way to Siliguri/ Bagdogra (30 kms), one may visit Kurseong, a lovely little town with tea gardens
Sandakphu: 84 kms (Hill station; view of four Himalayan peaks) | Doable, but really difficult to accomplish in a day though!
Pelling (west Sikkim): 72 kms (Sikkim; for nature and culture) | Feasible, but would be an extremely hectic, and long day!
Namchi (west Sikkim): 57 kms; Char-dham temple; Samdruptse Buddha statue; Namchi Mahotsav in October.

Travel tips : Darjeeling

Best months to visit:

For Kanchenjunga view: October- early April
For enjoying the clouds (my favorite): June- September
To get relief from the heat: April- June

A suggested itinerary:

One would require at least 3 days to complete all the best things to do in Darjeeling.

Day-1: A walking tour of local Darjeeling: the ridge area and the markets
Start the day-2 with witnessing sunrise from the Tiger Hill; later: Darjeeling Himalayan Railway; and then nearby tea gardens
On day-3, explore nearby places: monasteries, temples, etc.

Depending on the number of days you have in hand, you may plan for some day-trips as well. Please have a look at the suggestions for day-trips above.

How to reach:

Flight: The nearest airport is at Bagdogra, some 95 kms away from Darjeeling. From there, a taxi will take 3 hrs to reach Darjeeling.
Train: Nearest railway station is New Jalpaigudi, a few kms from the main city- Siliguri.

Where to stay:

Some Budget Hotel suggestions:

Hotel Broadway (Hill Cart Road) || Dekeling Resort (Gandhi Road) || Classic Guest House (Near Chowrasta, the Mall). || Magnolia Residency (Dr Zakir Husai Road) || Hotel Revolver (Gandhi Road) || Hotel Tibet Home (Gandhi Road). || Hotel Capital (Gandhi Road) || Happy Valley Homestay (Jorethang Road, Chauk Bazar). || Hotel Golden Orchid (Dr Zakir Husai Road) || Pine Touch Retreat (Kutchery Road, Mall Road).

Some good hostels:

Hideout Backpackers Hostel || Hidden Monkey Hostel || Trippers Hostel || Backpackers Hub.

Where to eat:

Keventers (Nehru Road): estd. 1911 by Edward Keventers; popular for breakfast
Himalayan Coffee (Nehru Road)
Glenary’s (Nehru Road): for bakery
Tom & Jerry’s cafe (Nr. Chowrasta)
Revolver cafe (Gandhi Road), a theme cafe- for pancakes
Kunga restaurant (Gandhi Road)- for Tibetan food
Sonam’s Kitchen (Dr Zakir Husain Road, Chowrasta)- for breakfast
Frank Ross cafe (Nehru Road)- multi-cuisine

Moving around:

Within Darjeeling, walking is the best option, and most enjoyable. For nearby places, it’s good to hire a local taxi as local public transport is not reliable.

Concluding Notes

I have my favorite places. And then there’s Darjeeling. For me, Darjeeling is not a destination, it’s an emotion; I feel joyous, every time I set foot there. Maybe it’s the clouds, maybe the Himalayas, maybe the tea gardens, or the people, or, all of them. I love Buddhist culture, and the sweet, simple, courteous people practicing Buddhism. Over and above, the way so many cultures have come together to call it home!

A Himalayan hill station with wonderful natural panorama, and a rich culture. Things that we appreciate, love and adore. Hence, we would keep coming back! We hope you liked this article on the best things to do in Darjeeling. Whether yes or no, we would like to hear from you.