Scattered around miles and miles of incredible landscape on the banks of Tungabhadra River are the magnificent ruins of a great empire of the medieval era. Vijayanagar, with its capital in Hampi, was one of the greatest empires of India, and certainly, one of the most important ones in the world of that era. It flourished in South India for over two hundred years before perishing in 1565 CE. It was only after the British took interest in reviving the monuments and bringing them to limelight, the world came to know about them. When UNESCO listed the group of monuments at Hampi as a World Heritage Site in 1986, it slowly gained momentum as a premier travel destination for visitors from all over the world.
India is a treasure trove of ancient and medieval archaeological sites. Some of the most extraordinary masterpieces of architecture lie in the nooks and corners of India. From the Kailasha temple in Ellora to the Taj Mahal; from the Shore temples of Mahabalipuram to the temples in Khajuraho and Konark (Odisha) or the wonderful Stepwells of India, the list goes on. However, if there is one archaeological complex that took my breath away it was Hampi. An extraordinary empire of medieval India that rose like a phoenix, time and again! Situated in the South Indian state of Karnataka, Hampi world heritage is quite a marvel.
{If you love Indian architectural marvels, here are a few more: Havelis of Shekhawati (Rajasthan) ||| Temples of Bhubaneswar}
{Talking of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, check out more: Stonehenge- Bath (England) ||| Ayutthaya (Thailand)}
My whirlwind trip to Hampi World Heritage Site
At the fag end of a winter retreat in Ooty-Mysore with family, I decided to go on a whirlwind 3-day solo tour of north Karnataka. The route was Hampi- Badami- Pattadakal- Aihole – Bijapur that included two UNESCO World Heritage Sites (Hampi and Pattadakal), and two on the tentative list (Badami and Aihole)! Out of the three days, I spent a day exploring the magnificent Hampi UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was the perfect beginning for a tour full of magnificent monuments.
My first impression:
I reached Hospet, the nearest town to Hampi by train from Mysore. Since I had only one day in hand, without wasting much time, I hired an auto-rickshaw from Hospet to explore the Hampi World Heritage Site. As I reached the first site at the Virupaksha Temple, I couldn’t believe my eyes! The 7th century temple still was in fairly good state. The architectural details, fine sculpture of Hindu deities and mythological characters were awe-inspiring, to say the least! Moving from one site to another, the landscape changed dramatically. The whole city of the bygone era revealed in front of me like a great detective fiction novel.
Hampi world heritage was a treat to all my senses; it left me spellbound. I had heard so much about the place that I feared if the actual experience could be a let-down! However, Hampi did not only live up to my expectations, but elevated it beyond my imagination. History, heritage, architecture, nature, culture- all packed into a bundle of extravagance.
Lively ruins of the lost empire:
Today, the ruins of the great empire are spread over a large area but are close to each other. Thus, if one has time, one can cycle around the place leisurely over a few days. But, I didn’t have that much of time. So, I hopped in an auto-rickshaw from site to site. As I was moving around and discovering various monuments and other natural sites, a very unique feeling engulfed me. It was partly a deja vu feeling, and partly mesmerizing! The whole area was so ancient, and yet so lively that I felt like history was talking to me! I felt like historical events were happening in front of me! I can’t forget that feeling, and yet I can’t really put it into words properly.
Hampi- Last signs of a forgotten empire
Hampi has a long history and a longer mythological time zone. In fact, it has always been a centre of power and eminence through the ages. However, for long periods in between, it went into oblivion before coming back to life again. Here’s a brief sketch of its interesting timeline.
Hampi in ancient times:
In pre-historic times, it was known as Pampakshetra (‘Pampa’= Goddess ‘Parvati’). It has mentions in Hindu scriptures such as ‘Sthala purana’ and ‘Ramayana‘. As per ‘Ramayana’, it was the place where Lord Rama met with Hanumana. In fact, Pampakshetra was a prominent pilgrimage site in the medieval era.
Hampi in medieval times:
Though Hampi has a long mythological footprint, the Hampi as we know it, came to eminence only about 14th century with the rise of Vijayanagar empire. Before the rise of Vijayanagar empire, it was under the Mauryas and Chalukyas at different points of time. The Hoysala Kings built temples and monuments in Hampi between 12th– 14t CE. But the real eminence came about when it became the capital of Vijayanagar Empire around 1336 CE.
In a historic mission in the 14th century AD, King Harihara-I (with his brother Bukka-I) led an inspired army to stop the rampaging Muslim invaders from Afghanistan. Thereafter, the Vijayanagar Empire and its capital city- Hampi rose dramatically.
The Kings after him, especially Harihara-II and Krishnadevaraya built a huge metropolitan city. It had palaces, forts, public utilities, temples and market places. The markets were so prosperous that diamond traders came from near and far. In fact, the famous traveller of that era Ibn Battuta mentions in his travelogue that Hampi was the second largest city in the world after Beijing. With its monuments still inspiring us today, Hampi is a true world heritage.
Lost glory and the resurgence:
As mentioned earlier, Vijayanagar Empire and Hampi were in eminence for about 200 years. And then, the grand city came crushing down when the unified Muslim sultanates defeated them in 1565. Though it still remained under various kingdoms, its monuments lost the shin and the magnificent city went into oblivion.
Later, the British carried out extensive renovations in Hampi after Colin Mackenzie rediscovered its ruins in 1799. The excavations still continue. And the ASI has done some impressive conservation work in the recent decades. Furthermore, the “UNESCO World Heritage Site” status in 1986 has helped Hampi regain its lost eminence.
Monuments of Hampi World Heritage Site
With 1600 monuments spread over 41.5 square kilometers, Hampi World Heritage Site is part of the wider-spread Vijayanagara ruins. Within this area, Hampi World Heritage Site alone covers 26 sq. kms. The monuments are so magnificent even today that I wonder how would they be looking like in the 14th-15th century at their heydays! The architectural style followed the original Dravidian style that was developed in south India in the first millennium. The structures were made of local granites, burnt bricks and lime mortar. Except a few Jain and Islamic religious structures, most of the temples were devoted to the Hindu Gods/ Goddesses.
The major monuments not to miss:
There are so many magnificent structures around Hampi Heritage Site that a tourist with limited time on hand might find it difficult to choose from. So, I thought of listing some of the best monuments not to miss.
(1) Virupaksha Temple (dedicated to Lord Shiva and Pampa Devi/ Parvati):
Much before Hampi became the capital city, Virupaksha Temple was established in the 7th century. No one really knows who built the temple originally. But several dynasties (Hoysalas, Chalukyas and Vijayanagar Kings) contributed to its construction through out history. Among the notable features of its architecture is the massive 165 feet (~ 50 meters) high gopuram (main gateway tower). In an architectural ingenuity, the ‘inverted shadow’ of the tower appears through a slit in the wall of a structure 300 feet away!
(2) Vijaya Vitthala Temple Complex:
If there’s one monument from Hampi World Heritage Site every Indian would have seen sometime, it’s the Stone Chariot. Because it’s printed on the 50- rupee currency note. This well-preserved chariot, a masterpiece of architecture, stands in the middle of the Vijaya Vitthala Temple Complex. Built in the 15th century by King Devaraya-II, the temple is dedicated to Lord Vitthala, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu. An important feature of the temple is its 56 granite pillars that produce musical notes.
(3) Royal Enclosure:
Another important complex in the Hampi World Heritage Site is the Royal Enclosure that includes wonderful monuments like the Lotus Mahal, Queen’s Bath and the Elephant Stables.
- Lotus Mahal derives its name from its architecture that resembles a lotus. Its uniqueness comes from the combination of south Indian (pyramidal towers) and Islamic architecture (arches).
- On the other side of Lotus Mahal are the Elephant Stables. One cannot but marvel at the buildings that were home to the royal elephants.
- Queen’s Bath is yet another example of Hampi’s Indo-Islamic fusion architecture. In the middle of the monument, sits a 6-feet deep and 15 sq. meters large bath for the queen.
- In the same campus, one can also visit the Hazara Rama Temple. For the numerous carvings of Lord Rama, people also call it the ‘Open Ramayana Library’ of Hampi World Heritage Site.
- A stepwell (or, Pushkarani) lies at the center of the Royal Enclosure. (details below)
- Mahanavami Dibba/ Dasara Dibba: A large raised platform where the royal family celebrated Dussehra festival with the citizens.
Other important monuments at Hampi World Heritage Site:
- Achyuta Temple: Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, built in 1534 CE by King Achyuta Deva Raya.
- Lakshmi Narasimha Temple: Hampi’s most famous monolithic statue standing at 22 feet (6.7 meters).
- Hemakuta Hill Monuments: The hill slope that houses over 35 temples from 9th century onwards.
- Numerous market complexes: Of the many temples in Hampi World Heritage Site, the most popular ones are Virupaksha Bazaar, Achyuta Raya Bazaar and Vitthala Bazaar.
- Kodanda Rama Temple: A simple temple at the end of Virupaksha Bazaar, on the banks of Tungabhadra River.
- King’s Balance: A ceremonial balance (15 feet high) where the Kings used to weigh themselves during coronation and distribute equal quantity of valuables to the poor/ priests.
- Gagan Mahal (Old Palace): A little away from Hampi World Heritage Site, in Anegundi, lies the first palace of the Vijayanagar empire before Hampi became its capital.
- Anjaneya Temple (Monkey Temple): In the same area of Anegundi, atop the Anjanadri Hill, sits this little ancient Hanumana Temple that offers a stunning panoramic view of Hampi World Heritage Site with all its monuments and landscape.
My favourite monuments in Hampi:
It’s quite difficult to choose a favourite monument from among so many magnificent ones. But one monument stood out for me. Without a doubt, my favourite place was the Virupaksha Temple. Built over 1400 years ago, it still looks in its prime! Stunning temple architecture, and exquisite sculpture reflect in every corner of the temple. My favourite view (and the favourite picture) of the temple was from the nearby Hemakuta Hill.
My second favourite place is the medieval market place. Looking at it in awe, I couldn’t believe that 700 years ago, such a multi-storey market place did exist where traders came from all over the world! Other monuments that stole my heart were the Stone Chariot, the Lakshmi- Narasimha Statue, Elephants Stables and the Pushkarani.
Though there are a number of stepwells (Pushkarani) in Hampi World Heritage Site area, the one in the Royal Enclosure is the best one. The five- levelled stepwell (Pushkarani) was fed by well-designed aqueducts connecting the Tungabhadra River. Most likely, the royal family used its water for their domestic purposes.
Hampi’s Stunning Landscape and Rich Culture
Landscape:
Looking back, it’s difficult to choose between the wonderful monuments of the Hampi World Heritage Site and the stunning landscape surrounding them. When the auto-driver friend brought me to the riverfront, I was mesmerized by the beauty of the scenic landscape. With huge boulders perched precariously over each other extending over the whole region, it was a sight to behold. The beautiful Tungabhadra river flows through undulating terrains flanked by the boulders. The landscape looks heavenly with enchanting palm groves, banana plantations and paddy fields.
I spent about an hour enjoying the serene environment at the riverside. How dearly I wanted to stay longer! Besides, an interesting feature of the riverfront is the small circular ferries offering tourists a ride in the river. Further, across/ along the river, there are some interesting mythological places. They tell stories from the pre-historic times. In fact, the landscape all around Hampi is spectacular.
Culture:
Quite naturally, a culture evolving through the ages is bound to be rich and versatile. The place, its people and culture have survived incomprehensible destruction and have still managed to thrive. Though it’s no more as prosperous as it used to be, it still holds a pre-eminent position in terms of its heritage value. Even though Hampi has been an important place for Hindus always, it has assimilated Jainism and Islam to a great extent. How amazing is it that a multi-cultural society evolved so naturally in those days!
Government of Karnataka organizes Hampi festival every year in the first week of November to celebrate this rich cultural heritage. Puppet shows, dance and music shows are main features of this festival. Other important festivals of Hampi are Purandaradasa Aradhana festival of classical music in Jan-Feb, Car festival in Mar-Apr, and Shivaratri in Feb-Mar.
Travel Tips: Hampi World Heritage Site
Best time to visit Hampi World Heritage Site:
- Best weather: November to February (winters; but average temperatures would be in 30 degree C).
- For photography enthusiasts: Monsoon season from July to October; best pictures of monuments with clouds hovering in the sky.
- For culture seekers: Hampi Festival in November. Or, choose your festival from the section above.
How to reach Hampi World Heritage Site:
- By flight: Vidyanagar is the nearest airport (35 kms) to Hampi World Heritage Site; but it has very limited options. Other domestic airports are Bellary and Hubli, around 4 hours away by road. The nearest international airport is Bengaluru (350 kms), well connected by train/ bus service.
- By train: Hospet is the nearest railway station, 13kms away.
- Regular bus services from Bangalore, Hubli, Mangalore, Mysore, and other major cities in Karnataka.
How to explore Hampi World Heritage Area:
Since the ruins and monuments of Hampi World Heritage Area spreads over a few kilometers, one should keep at least two days on hand. But it’s doable in one long day. However, exploring the area at slow pace over a few days/ a week is the most desired thing.
I would suggest to start at the Virupaksha Temple and the head to the Tungabhadra Riverside. Then slowly, explore the nearby monuments (refer the map below). In the evening, hike up to the Anjaneya Temple for an amazing sunset. Next day (and onwards), explore the rest of the monuments and nearby places outside of Hampi.
Getting around Hampi World Heritage Site:
- If you have time, the best option is cycling, or motor-cycling, and walking around slowly exploring the places around Hampi World Heritage Site.
- If time is a constraint, or you are budget conscious, auto-rickshaws are cheap options.
- Since it’s a hot place, taxis would be comfortable, and are not too costly.
Where to stay in Hampi:
- Main areas: Hampi Main Bazaar Area (for close access to monuments), and Sanapur/ Anegundi Area (for peaceful stays). Virupapur, the island in Tungabhadra River, popular as ‘Hippie island’ is now closed for accommodation.
- Budget accommodations (Hampi Bazaar Area): Lakshmi Heritage Tourist Home ||| Mahesh Guesthouse ||| Shanthi Guesthouse ||| Mayuram homestay ||| Om Shiva Guesthouse ||| Uma homestay ||| Rocky Guesthouse ||| Saptami Hampi.
- Budget accommodations (Sanapur/ Anegundi Area): Peshagar Guesthouse ||| Mountainview Guesthouse ||| Zostel Hampi ||| Jay Stays.
Where to eat in Hampi:
- Must visit: Mango Tree ||| The Nest- Lakefront Restaurant ||| Garden Paradise ||| All Tribes Coffee Shop ||| Old Chillout Ganesh restaurant ||| Laughing Buddha restaurant.
- For authentic local flavours: Taste of Brahmins ||| Annapurna Café and Restaurant ||| Panchamukhi Restaurant.
Concluding Note
I just fell in love with place replete with historic ruins and having great cultural significance. However, I wonder, how come such a beautiful and historically rich place is not among the most visited places in India! One of the reasons maybe its location, because reaching there is not very easy. However, with communications getting better by the day, more and more tourists are visiting Hampi World Heritage Site every year.
It’s totally worth the effort. Apart from Hampi, people interested in history and heritage can also explore other important places in the vicinity. Some of these places are Badami, Pattadakal, Aihole and Bijapur (like I did). One could also visit Gulbarga (which I couldn’t). From Bijapur, I took an overnight train to Pune where I boarded my flight to Delhi.
If you are planning a trip, do write to us for more information.
Sajith
The architecture attracts and call to sit in the historical lap and enjoy the culture and civilization. Its truly wonderful.
stampedmoments
Sajith: it is definitely among the top 5 places to explore in India.
Suma
As they say “Two eyes are not enough to capture the synic beauty” …..this stands so true for Hampi. What I found remarkable in this post is every aspect has been mentioned as to the way you need to see and feel the place when you visit it
Suma
Read it as “scenic” and not synic🙏
stampedmoments
Yes Suma, Hampi is a place to feel, not only to see. A must visit.
Thanks for the encouraging feedback.
Soumen Chatterjee
It’s fantastic read. The blog enriches mind, the beautiful architecture description feels like I am actually viewing this. Every minute details are being captured. the majority monuments are described and I think it’s a must visit for us.Humpi is truely a world heritage , it’s cluture and temples are realy famous and it has so much artistic in nature.
stampedmoments
Soumen, it truly is an amazing place. As a travel enthusiast, you must visit.
Thanks for reading, and giving you feedback.
Jayvanti Einjen
V.nice
stampedmoments
Thank you 🙂