Imagine a destination with no major places to visit, or no major things to do, and yet you loving the place. Pleasant weather, just enough sunshine, sprinkled with a little rain, and verdant valleys of the lower Himalayas. A leisurely walk, a little hike with friends, tens of smiling faces, and festive vibes in the air. Spring couldn’t be any better. Visiting Kasar Devi (near Almora), a place that appeals to the heart, will always remain a cherished memory. Here’s the story, and a little travel perspective.
{For more such quaint destinations, also read: Yuksom (Sikkim) ||| Tirthan Valley (Himachal)}
Sitting atop 6943 feet (~2116 meters) in the lower Himalayas, Kasar Devi has been at the center of mysticism and fascination for long. Popular among offbeat travellers, including a lot of foreigners, it’s a place known for its tranquility and spirituality. Over the years, it has attracted both Hindu mystics and Buddhist monks for meditation. A little truth and lots of fascination surround this place.
My visit this spring was especially due to my travel friends- Flora and Vasco. However, after visiting the village, now I love its peaceful vibes and want to go back frequently.
{For more similar offbeat destinations, check out: Aizawl (Mizoram) ||| Mirik Lake (WB)}
This story begins in Nagaland:
A couple of years ago (2023), on a trek in the Dzukou Valley (Nagaland), I made two friends- Vasco and Flora, siblings from Italy, living in France. They are a family that keeps coming back to India. Their parents have been visiting India all their lives, every few years. And now, both Vasco and Flora have visited India many a times.
On her next trip, Flora came with her mom (Kathrin), and visited Kasar Devi (Almora). Flora is a short film maker, and who is currently making a film on the intersectionality between religion and science. Apart from her travel interests, I think she was searching for inspirations/ stories, and taking footages too.
Learning about Kasar Devi, Almora:
To be honest, it was the first time, I heard about Kasar Devi, Almora from them only! Kathrin and Flora gave rave reviews of the place, and gleefully explained to me how they just love the place. So much so that Kathrin had been there many a times! But I didn’t pay much attention then. I thought it might be one of those tranquil villages in the Himalayas a lot of foreign travellers like staying for long durations.
Another year down the line, Flora was planning to be back in India, and this time with her brother and father. She shared her schedule, and Kasar Devi was in it again! It was then, I thought of researching about Kasar Devi near Almora. As I learnt more and more about the place, I got really interested in it. So, I decided to spend some time with them when they visit Kasar Devi. Fortunately, Holi (festival of colours) was round the corner, and I swiftly planned for a long-weekend trip.
Kasar Devi Almora: quintessential charm of Kumaon and a land of peace and spirituality
About 10 kms from Almora city, this quaint little village- Kasar Devi, is an embodiment of the quintessential charm of Kumaon region in Uttarakhand. Villages around Kasar Devi (Almora) have a unique charm of their own. Clusters of houses spread across pine forests on hill slopes interspersed with resorts and cafes lie all over the place in a lazy elegance. Undisturbed by the urban noise, Kasar Devi has a serenity that appeals to the heart and the soul.
Since it was a bit cloudy when I was there, I couldn’t see the snow-clad Himalayas from there. But Vasco showed me how a number of high mountain ranges- Nanda Devi, Panchachuli and Trishul are seen from Kasar Devi (almora). Maybe on my next trip, I’ll be lucky enough to see them.
However, Kasar Devi is actually known for being a place for meditation. Over the years, it has attracted scores of eminent personalities to its laps for meditation and general tranquility.
Kasar Devi, Almora: A gap in the Van Allen Belt? Truth or urban legend?
According to a popular belief, Kasar Devi (Almora), like Machu Pichu and Stonehenge, lie in a gap in the earth’s Van Allen Belt. Basically, Van Allen Belt (made of highly charged particles) surrounds the earth protecting it from harmful solar storms. So, what’s the significance of the gaps in this belt? They say that because of this gap in the belt, Kasar Devi is blessed with an enormous geomagnetic field. So, this helps in creating a positive environment for meditation. Perhaps, this is the principal reason why scores of celebrities have visited Kasar Devi in Almora over the years.
However, there’s a question in my mind about the genuineness of this belief. So, I researched thoroughly to see any official confirmation of this. Alas, I found nothing! If at all, I found a scientific explanation of why this is a myth. For your reference, here’s the link: Kasar Devi’s geomagnetic field, truth or myth? So, I guess, it’s just an urban legend. If you know of any official confirmation about this, do let me know.
Vivekananda at Kasar Devi (Almora):
Whether there’s any truth behind Kasar Devi’s geomagnetic fields, the original celebrity visiting Vivekananda didn’t know about it. Because Vivekananda visited this place in 1890, much before Van Allen Belt was discovered in 1958.
In fact, most probably, Kasar Devi came into prominence because of Swami Vivekananda‘s visit. While travelling across Kumaon region, he was particularly attracted to this place. Though not much authentic information is available, my guess is that he being a devotee of Devi, Kasar Devi temple appealed to him. He meditated here for some time in a cave in its peaceful environment. While meditating here, it’s said that he attained a divine glow and a lot of inspiration for public service.
In early 20th century, American anthropologist and Tibetan Buddhist scholar- Walter Evans-Wentz lived here for some time. A Danish mystic, Alfred Sorensen (Sunyata Baba) lived here for over 30 years in the 1930s. Next celebrity to visit Kasar Devi was German philosopher and Tibetan Buddhist monk- Ernst Lothar Hoffmann (1898- 1985), later known as Lama Anagarika Govinda. However, it was the Hippie Movement that brought scores of western scholars to this tranquil land.
"Let us not already think of enlightenment, let us first of all think of our peace of mind, our peace of heart, of our loving attitude towards others. These simple foundations. If people start with the idea of Enlightenment they should first start with the first steps before they aim at the very summit."
The Hippie Movement, Hippie Hill / Crank’s Ridge:
During the Counter-culture/ Hippie Movement in mid-1960s and 1970s, thousands of famous, and not-so-famous people came here for meditation and peace of mind. From Bob Dylan, Timothy Leary to Allen Ginsberg, George Harrison and Cat Stevens all visited, and engaged in creative work while staying here.
They meditated at a particular ridge beside the Kasar Devi temple, which came to be known as Crank’s Ridge or colloquially, the Hippie Hill.
Some other celebrities visiting Kasar Devi, Almora:
Apart from the counter-culture celebrities, lots of other famous people also came here in search of peace. Among the more famous ones, First Prime Minister of India- Pt. J. Nehru, Italian writer- Tiziano Terzani, British writer- D. H. Lawrence, Indian classical dance maestro- Uday Shankar, American artist- Earl Brewster, to count a few.
Kasar Devi Diary: March 2025
Since this was trip without any major sightseeing, let me share my experience with you in detail. I guess, you may like a diary-style for this; let’s see!
Day-1: Reaching Kasar Devi, Almora:
I chose an overnight Volvo bus trip to reach Kathgodam, about 35 kms from Nainital. As per plan, the bus operator transferred us to a car and dropped us in Nainital. When I reached Nainital (Tallital), it was wee hours of the morning (~6 AM), and was cold. Contrary to my expectations, I didn’t find any local transport ready for Almora (nearest town to Kasar Devi) at that point of time. Though bikes were available, it was too cold to take one for a ride without proper jackets.
So, I asked a bike-taxi to drop me at Bhowali, about 10 kms ahead, towards Almora (Kasar Devi). I was told that I would get local transport (like jeeps/ small buses) more frequently from there. But I had to wait for an hour or so before getting into a local jeep. From Bhowali to Almora, about 50 kms, the jeep took about two hours, and dropped me a little ahead of Almora town. Luckily, I found a local taxi immediately from there to reach Kasar Devi by 10.30 AM. At last, my journey ended, quite a tough journey of 14 hours changing five vehicles!
Meeting my friends in Kasar Devi:
As planned, Flora and her father (Evaristo) came to my drop-off point in Kasar Devi to pick me. It was so good to see her after a year, and meet her father for the first time! Vasco would meet a little later though, after his massage session. Since a room was not available in the same homestay, I took another homestay just nearby. It was a nice, cozy property with amazing views of the snow-clad Himalayas. As I had had a sleepless night, immediately went for a sleep till lunch time.
A few words about Flora, and family:
- Flora: Independent short film-maker, spiritual seeker, and traveller
- Vasco: An art restorer, adventure seeker, and traveller
- Evaristo: A former real estate entrepreneur, spiritual seeker, and an India-lover
- Kathrin: Home maker, peace seeker, and traveller.
Lunch at a little Tibetan Cafe:
After I had taken a little nap, and freshened up, Flora and Evaristo came calling me, and we headed for our lunch and a little Tibetan Cafe- Iby Cafe, supposedly the highest cafe in Kasar Devi. On the way, we came across a little Buddhist Ashram set in the green environs of Kasar Devi. It was only then I realized that even followers of Buddhism visit this place.
Flora and family liked the food at Iby Cafe very much, especially because, I suppose, Tibetan food is non-spicy. They had invited one of their friends- Nicole (from France), living in Kasar Devi for a long time. She runs a massage enterprise in Kasar Devi for quite some time. In fact, Vasco was enjoying his massage there only. So, both of them arrived for the lunch directly at Iby Cafe.
I ordered a Bhutanese dish for myself. And they ordered some Tibetan food. I must say, the food was really good, authentic and delicious. Moreover, eating in a garden beneath cherry/ apricot trees on a hill slope was an amazing experience in itself. Then it was time for a hike to the Kasar Devi Temple.
Hiking up to Kasar Devi Temple:
From the Iby cafe, a narrow trail (~1 km) leads up to Kasar Devi Temple. Together we hiked on that route among the pines, deodars and oaks, and yes, not to forget the rhododendrons! Though there were not many rhododendrons on the trail, they were blooming. Blooming rhododendrons in the spring are my favorite visuals from the Himalayas.
On the way, we came across a small hut, that was used by Anagarika Govinda. Look at that picture below, how modest was the hut! Isn’t it quite extraordinary that such a famous person meditated in such a modest hut for a long time? It was quite surprising for me that Evaristo knew all this! He explained this to Flora and Vasco, which I got to understand later.
Just before reaching Kasar Devi Temple, there was this nice ridge everyone was hanging around. We also stopped over and had a chat with fellow visitors from all over India. From there, it was just a 5-minute hike to reach Kasar Devi Temple. In fact, since we came from the back side, we reached the Shiva & Bhairav Temple first. A few steps downhill was the Kasar Devi Temple.
Kasar Devi Temple (Almora) | Shiva & Bhairava Temple:
The claim to fame of this tiny village emanates from the modest temple of Kasar Devi on a hilltop in Almora. It seems like there was a temple in a cave like structure from the ancient times (~2nd CE) around which this relatively new temple has been built. Being a devotee of Devi, Swami Vivekananda visited this temple and meditated in a nearby cave. One can see the Vivekananda Cave just beside the temple.
Climbing about a hundred steps takes one to the Shiva- Bhairava temple. Another modest temple, its exact date of establishment is not known. Vasco, who had visited the temple a few years ago, told me that the temple premises looked much more organized this time than before. An ancient-looking carved-stone structure lay in the premises on one side of the temple.
From the hilltop, one gets amazing view of the valleys all around, and Almora town looks gorgeous. We spent some time there enjoying the sunset over the hills on the far side. And before it was dark, we climbed down via the main steps onto the main road.
Experiencing Kumaoni Holi in Kasar Devi
Day-2: Festivities and exploring the village
The next day was the day of Holi, a major Hindu festival celebrated across the Indian subcontinent. I was actually eagerly waiting for the day. In fact, this was one of the major attractions for me to be in Kasar Devi that weekend. We planned to go around in the village and see how people celebrate the festival here. To be honest, Flora and Vasco were more prepared than me, wearing white t-shirts and colours in hand.
Holi, the festival of colours:
Holi is celebrated in different ways in different parts of India, also in different names, like Dola, Phagu, etc. Moreover, one can see a different side of the festival, the way one wants to it. It’s as much a festival of colours, as of spring, and love. From a religious point of view, people see it as a celebration of the eternal love between Lord Krishna and Radha. People in rural pockets see it as a celebration of a good spring harvest. However, in general, and most popularly, it’s a festival of colours.
In some regions, especially in north India, people celebrate it for 3 to 7 days at length! Come to Vrindavan/ Mathura, you will see people celebrating it for a whole month! However, majority of India celebrates it for 1-2 days during the full moon day. On the day of Holi, people play with colours, on the streets and in homes.
Celebrating Holi with the locals:
It was a bright sunny morning with clouds hovering around too! As we sat for breakfast in a tiny home-cafe, it started raining a bit. But our fear of a rainy day was short-lived, as it became sunny again. After a little enquiry, we knew where to go. A narrow path from the main road led us inside Gadholi Village. Our first stop was at a house where the family was dancing, singing and playing colours. They welcomed us like their family, offered us some sweets and soft drinks. Unfortunately, a naughty dog bit Evaristo! However, the wound was not bad, and after some first-aid, we continued our foray into the village.
In the village, we stopped over at many places, and joined groups of people playing colours and dancing around. It was so nice to see people enjoy their day! Though a lot of them were in a state of inebriation, they didn’t quite force the matter with us. The villagers were welcoming, and happy to make us feel part of them.
We continued walking past the village until there was no road to go. At the end of the village, there was an old shrine (below), a sort of tiny village shrine we see all across India. It was lunchtime then, so we returned to the main village. After a quick bath, Flora chose her favorite restaurant for the lunch.
Lunch with a view:
Lunch for the special day couldn’t be at a better place. Mohan’s restaurant is as much a well-curated restaurant as it offers stunning views of the Himalayas. And of course, the food was perfect! This restaurant is actually part of a resort- Mohan’s Binsar Retreat. Started in 1993 by Mohan, a traveller himself, the resort has grown in reputation steadily. Maybe next time, I’ll book a room there!
Dance, sing and eat with the locals:
Post that sumptuous meal, we thought of taking a walk around the village. From the restaurant, we started off in the Binsar direction. About 500 meters down the road, we reached a lovely village- Matena. From a distance, I noticed a group of women enjoying a nice community dance.
Not resisting the temptation to join them, I went close and asked for permission if we could join them in the celebrations. As expected, they were more than welcoming. While Flora joined them in shaking a leg, I, Vasco and Evaristo sat there enjoying their singing and dancing. It was such a privilege! At the end of the dancing session, the hosts offered everyone tea and snacks. They told us that it’s a tradition in the village for households to take turn in hosting these parties everyday through the Holi festivities.
A walk to remember:
Vasco knew of an interesting trail that he was pursuing. Asking a few locals, and following the google maps, we reached a big playground above the village. From up there, one gets a nice panoramic view of the villages around. Crossing that ground to the other side, and taking a narrow trail in the pine forest, he was looking for a small temple.
A temple in the middle of nowhere:
After walking for about half-kilometer, without knowing whether we would reach there, we actually found that obscure temple- Gangnath Temple in the middle of nowhere! It didn’t seem like anyone visits that temple, maybe except for some tantric reasons. Evaristo somehow, seemed pretty interested in the temple, and looked like searching for something. A spiritual seeker that he is, he looks for such interesting, unknown temples for inspiration.
On our return journey, Vasco led us on a narrower trail, which was not even a trail! A bit of walk took us to another lovely village- Bintola. We met with kids playing and people working in their kitchen gardens. And before it was dark, we reached our rooms to relax.
An authentic traditional Kumaoni dinner:
To end the day on a good note, we had planned for an authentic Kumaoni dinner at a little home-cafe- Manisha homestay. In fact, we had ordered for the special dishes in the morning while taking our breakfast. Nicole joined us for the dinner. The food was very good, especially a local dish called Bhatt ki Churkani (black soyabean curry).
That rounded off an amazing day for us, one that I will cherish forever. Next morning, after breakfast, I left for Nainital by a taxi, from where I took an overnight bus to Delhi. But before reaching Nainital, I visited the Katarmal sun temple and Kainchidham on the way.
Why experiencing festivals is the best way to know a place well
Of late, I have started travelling to destinations during festivals. Sometime back, I would generally avoid travelling during festivities because of the crowd. However, these days, I have realized that one gets a nice perspective of the place during these times.
- During festivities, there is a lot of positive energy in the air. People are in great mood for fun and fervor, and thus, are all the more welcoming. So, if you are someone who loves talking to people, they have more time during festivities.
- Moreover, the cultural vibes during festivals are at their peak. It’s easy to witness local dance and music performances easily everywhere without making an effort, or buying a ticket!
- Plus, if you are religious, you will see people engage in their traditional rituals.
- Cafes and restaurants offer their best food, often unique, traditional local food, special for the occasion. In fact, some dishes are made only during a particular festival.
- Markets are full of great shopping options with fresh arrivals and attractive discounts at the same time!
The flip side!
- However, on the flip side, one has to deal with a lot of crowd and noise everywhere.
- Plus, it costs more everywhere- hotels, cafes, markets, vehicles, almost for everything!
Why do celebrities love Kasar Devi?
It’s just mind boggling how a small village like this attracted all these great people to spend time in the midst of its pine forests on hill slopes! The fact that Kasar Devi’s geomagnetic sphere is a myth must have been known to these great minds for sure. Still they lived here for long, and kept coming back.
Since the time I have come back from Kasar Devi, this has been intriguing me a lot. I would never be able to go back in time and ask these celebrities this question. But I can look into the minds of some foreigners; I started with Flora and Vasco. Here’s what they said:
Flora:
“For the last month of our India trip, we (I and my brother) were looking for something “spiritual”. So, we pointed towards the Himalayas. On the way, we met a friend from the previous trip, who invited us to stop by Kasar Devi to meet again. Though we were intending to stay 3-4 days, we actually ended up staying a month!
The Buddhist Ashram, and Kasar Devi Temple are excellent places to deepen a spiritual practice. The nature offers plenty of nice walks and amazing view-points. Besides, wonderful ancient temples make for stimulating day-trips. When the snow-clad Himalayan ranges show up, you feel surrendered and protected by the Gods.
I have no idea why Kasar Devi has attracted so many people. But personally speaking, I feel there might be a special energy that compelled us to stay there much longer than I planned to. So much so that it was difficult for us to leave the place!”
Vasco:
“Not only for its serene environment and stunning views of the Himalayas, but I love Kasar Devi also for its cultural heritage. The Kasar Devi Temple has a unique atmosphere- very peaceful and silent. Plenty of people come here to meditate in front of the shrine, and you can feel that the deity helps you with the concentration of your mind. I just love to come here and do some ‘people watching’, soak it all up, and meditate. In a way, it’s unique for a small place to be a meeting point for international and domestic travellers for decades.
Another aspect that I love about Kasar Devi, and the region- Almora and Kumaon, is its traditional art, the Aipan, which you can find almost in every house. (See in the picture below in which Suvendu is posing with a Kumaoni house).
The ‘hippie wave’ came because of the previous visit of Vivekananda who is quite famous in the west, and the ‘thirst’ of the westerners in the 60s- 70s for a mystical figure”.
Let me conclude this way:
I don’t think, as a peaceful place, Kasar Devi is very different from any other quaint places around in Almora, or Uttarakhand. Besides, the belief that it has any geomagnetic feature, is also like an urban myth. I’m sure the celebrities visiting this place over the years would be definitely knowing this.
However, once one arrives here, they feel the tranquility and the meditative vibe of the place, and love it. Over a period of time, one celebrity brought another, and it got its reputation as a place for meditation. And then happened the Hippie Movement that built its reputation immensely world over.
Kasar Devi Almora: Travel Tips
Best time to visit:
Since it’s in the lower Himalayas, one can visit Kasar Devi (Almora) anytime of the year.
- However, the most pleasant months are autumn (October- November) and spring (March- April). Also, every year, during Kartik Purnima (Oct/ Nov), a large fair is organized at Kasar Devi Temple in Almora.
- To escape from the summer heat (May- June), it’s a good idea to visit Kasar Devi for a longer stay.
- In the months of July to September, clouds cover the valleys, and rains soak the landscape making them lush green.
- But winter months of December to February, are a bit too cold for comfort.
How to reach:
- Flight option: Though the nearest airport is Pant Nagar, 125 kms away, there aren’t many regular flights. So, New Delhi (350 + kms) is more practical one.
- Train: Kathgodam is the nearest railway station (~90 kms), and takes about 4 hrs by taxi from there.
- Bus: Luxury buses are available from Delhi to Kathgodam, and from there one can take a taxi. Else, one can take a regular bus directly from Delhi to Almora, the nearest town to Kasar Devi.
Where to stay:
- Budget accommodation suggestions: Norling Homestay ||| The Hosteller ||| New Dolma ||| Kasar Himalayas Heights ||| Rudra Himalayan Retreat ||| Shivaay Homestay ||| Tranquility Homestay ||| Ghuguti Homestay.
- Luxury accommodation suggestions: The Kumaon ||| Himalayan Hobbit House ||| Kasar Serenity ||| Mohan’s Binsar Retreat ||| Kasar Himalayan Holiday Retreat ||| Kasar 360.
How to get around:
As Kasar Devi is a small village, one can explore by foot only, it’s enjoyable. However, to explore nearby places, one has to hire a taxi. For budget options, local buses ply a few times through the day.
Nearby places of interest:
- Almora City (10 kms): Nanda Devi Temple || Old town.
- Katarmal Sun Temple (22 kms): If you love ancient ruins, this ninth-century sun temple is a must visit place for you.
- Binsar wildlife sanctuary (39 kms): If you are a bird lover, you will love this forest walk; do hike up to Zero Point for amazing landscape pictures.
- Kausani (57 kms): A lovely hill station, good for a day trip.
- Jageshwar Temple (36 kms): 2500-year old group of Shiva temples (124 temples). On the same route, one can visit the below three destinations.
- Chitai Golu Devta Temple (9 kms): A popular deity in Kumaon region of Uttarakhand. It’s a unique temple where devotees hang legal papers around the temple campus, wishing to win legal cases.
- Lakhudiyar Rock Painting (16 kms): For pre-historic art hunters, it’s a great place to explore.
- Simtola (17 kms): A lovely picnic spot, good to hangout with family or friends.
Where to eat:
A few good suggestions: Kasar Rainbow Cafe ||| Mohan’s Binsar Retreat ||| Alhito Cafe ||| Kasar Kitchen ||| Dolma Cafe ||| Lali’s Cafe ||| Iby’s Cafe ||| Baba Cakes ||| Hammock Cafe ||| The Goodlife Cafe.
Concluding Thoughts
Two things to conclude. While travelling it’s important to make new friends, always. That’s what makes one’s travel experience richer day by day. This article is a case in point. I made this nice friendship in Nagaland, and they made me learn new things about my own country! I had previously passed by Kasar Devi while on a trip around Almora and Ranikhet, but didn’t think of visiting it! However, they knew why it’s a lovely place to be at.
Two, Kasar Devi (Almora), like most offbeat destinations are getting mainstream by the day. Owing to infrastructure development, and improvement in general accessibility and tourism development, destinations are overcrowded by the day. Kasar Devi, as we know today, is going to lose its significance in near future, I’m apprehensive.
To sum up, in the words of Flora, “I love its quiet and peaceful vibes, but I’m afraid it will not stay like this for long! Hotels and restaurants rising everywhere like mushrooms and the road-widening project will bring a lot of traffic up there. I guess, it’s everywhere the same. But if you want to enjoy the peace and natural beauty, you better hurry.”
Mani Kant
To be honest, i never heard about this place until i came across this comprehensively written ode to Kasar Devi. Enjoyed thoroughly and it very much felt like being part of the journey with the blogger and his amazing foreigner friends. I particularly enjoyed coming across pine and rhododendron and peach blossoms. I am now eagerly waiting my trip to this heaven and relishing bhatt churakani.
Mani Kant
To be honest I never heard about Kasar Devl until i came across here; and what a splendid place it comes across while i read the blog. Author has so comprehensively captured the essence of the place without unnecessary meandering ! I loved the lovely mountain trails tempered with rhododendrons and landscape dotted with pine and peach and all things lovely and green! The myth is so rationally addressed about the place without undermining its worth and reputation. I so wanna take a trip here now !
stampedmoments
Hi Manikant!
Your feedbacks are always so lovely!
Yes, this is a special place for friends to go together, and we will visit together soon 🙂
Thanks mate!