It’s commonplace to hear travellers talk about certain destinations as “hidden gems”, but they use it often casually. However, Shekhawati region in Rajasthan has so many of these hidden gems in real sense of the term that I felt like finding a treasure trove! Hundreds of beautiful havelis built across the region by merchants hundreds of years ago still stand proudly in glory. Adds to this is the unique charm of the unadulterated, slow-paced rural life of Shekhawati region of Rajasthan. Besides, the semi-arid, desert-like landscape of the region is a treat to the eyes.
{Further reading suggestion on a similar semi-arid travel destination in India: Unique experiences in Kutch}
I have travelled across the region quite thoroughly a number of times in different seasons. And each time, I have come back with a feeling that travel is as much about marveling the wonders of the world as exploring the hidden gems. Here’s my account of what makes the Shekhawati region in Rajasthan so special. I will also throw light on the things to expect for an inquisitive traveller.
Believe me, Shekhawati is absolutely unique in many ways; let alone India, even Rajasthan doesn’t have a parallel. Especially for a lover of history and heritage, this is like paradise!
{More Rajasthan destinations: Gagron Fort || Lake city Udaipur
Shekhawati Region in Rajasthan
Shekhawati today comprises of the districts of Jhunjhunu, Sikar, and Churu, to the north of Jaipur in Rajasthan. Further, some people also include parts of Nagaur, Bikaner and Jaipur districts as well.
It was winter of 2015 when I first visited Chirawa, a small town in the Shekhawati region in Rajasthan. Though I stayed in a small haveli then, little did I know that it was just the tip of an iceberg! Yes, I loved its aesthetics, and its heritage value, but I was unaware that the region had so many of them! Retrospectively, I realize that it was an official trip, and exploring the area was not on the agenda.
Later, my search for offbeat destinations in Rajasthan landed me on a page about the iconic havelis of Mandawa. So, I decided to explore the dusty little town last August with some close friends. On that trip, we were so enamored by what we saw that we went back this January to explore more.
Chequered History of Shekhawati:
The history of Shekhawati region goes thousands of years in time. However for this article, let’s keep the duration limited to the time since the appearance Rao Shekha, a Rajput King who established this region as his kingdom. In 1471, Rao Shekha rebelling against the Kachhawaha rulers (under whom he was a chieftain) of Jaipur, moved north to establish an independent kingdom of his own. His kingdom later came to be known as Shekhawati.
Rao Shekha had divided his kingdom into 33 Thikanas (administrative divisions). These Thikanas are now small towns spread across the region, and have all the travel interests. Because it’s a semi-arid region, people in general are poor and struggle for their livelihoods. However, the traders of the region have always been smart, and amass a lot of wealth. Much of the richness came through their trade through the historic Silk Route. {Know more about Shekhawati History}
Iconic Havelis of Shekhawati
Without a doubt, the main reason for traversing across the rough terrain of Shekhawati region in Rajasthan is its astoundingly ornate havelis. Earlier, I was fascinated by the beautiful paintings on the walls of forts and palaces across Rajasthan. But it was only last August that I noticed the same richness on the walls of old havelis in the Shekhawati region in Rajasthan.
How did the havelis come up!
Owing to its strategic location just on the outskirts of the Thar desert, the Shekhawati region in Rajasthan used to be a trading hotspot in the ancient Silk Route. During eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries, much of the trade between Arab, India and China happened through this region. Local trading communities, especially the Marwaris and Banias used to rule the roost. Having high business acumen, they became very wealthy. And their richness reflected in the opulent houses (havelis) they made for themselves.
However, with the British East India Company focusing on trade through sea routes in the nineteenth century, these merchants migrated to port cities like Kolkata (click to read) and Mumbai. But their penchant for building beautiful havelis back home continued through the century and more. For most part, there was a kind of competition among the merchants to build the best one in the area!
Structure of the Havelis
Since these havelis were essentially statements of the status and wealth of their owners, the architects would barely leave any stone unturned in making them lavish affairs. Some of the rich traders of the region were actually as rich as the small kings of the region. But they dared ever building any palaces comparable to the kings without having the wrath of the kings.
Our guide in Nawalgarh told us that even the owners of the havelis often had to take permission from the king before installing anything grand. Thus, these havelis were lavish, but less in grandeur than the palaces. The architecture of the havelis followed the most influential powers of the time- the Rajputs, the Mughals and the British.
Apparently, these havelis were meant for the extended families, often all the brothers living together. The main attractions of the iconic havelis of Shekhawati in Rajasthan are their rich frescos, impressive front gateways and the grand courtyards.
Frescoes:
Havelis of Shekhawati in Rajasthan are especially known for their rich frescoes, a form of durable wall painting on wet plaster. If you love wall paintings, this is the place to go. In fact, the beautiful paintings are virtually everywhere! Inside the havelis, on the outer walls/ boundaries, in the streets, wherever the eye goes! No wonder people call it an open air art gallery.
In the beginning (when the first havelis came up) in late 18th century, the paintings depicted the local ethos- elephants, camels, portraits of royalties, etc. But by the turn of the 19th century, the paintings had a lot of foreign influence. Cars and airplanes and British portraits were added to the array of portrayals.
Gateways:
As one enters the havelis through the grand doors/ gateways, it’s impossible for one to miss the ornate designs and carvings of the gateways. The front doors were often made of durable teak wood brought from as far as Burma. Most of the gateways were a set of two; a big imposing door, and a smaller door carved within the big one. The smaller door was generally kept open and used for day-to-day commuting. On the other hand, the larger one was used only when required.
Courtyards:
Typically, there would be two courtyards in the havelis. As soon as one enters the haveli, there would be this courtyard called Mardana, mostly used for official purposes. The other courtyard was more private, mainly for the women of the household. All the rooms faced towards the courtyard. So, it served as the center of all activities in the haveli.
The beautifully carved doors of the rooms and the rich fresco paintings all around made it a vibrant looking place. I can’t imagine in their heydays, how stunning they would be looking!
The Best Havelis in the region
If you love these havelis, you have a large number of them to explore across the villages and towns spread all over Shekhawati region in Rajasthan. Some of them are derelict and abandoned. My heart often sank to see them in such dilapidated condition. I felt like they are still waiting for their erstwhile owners (of course, their great grand children) to come back and love them again.
Fortunately though, in recent times, some of them have actually got their owners come back and renovate them, either for hospitality business or for tourism. The major towns in Shekhawati in Rajasthan to explore havelis are: Mandawa, Nawalgarh and Churu. However, there are a few villages worth visiting as well, for example: Mukundgarh, Laxmangarh, Fatehpur, Ramgarh, Mahansar and Alsisar.
Since it’s generally difficult for one to explore all of them in one visit, let me list a few good ones for a traveller’s convenience.
The most prominent havelis not to miss:
Mandawa: Perhaps the largest number of havelis are in Mandawa (I’m not sure though; Nawalgarh being the main competitor). Though all of the havelis are quite amazing, the most impressive ones are:
- Goenka Double Haveli
- Murmuria Haveli
- Jhunjhunwala- golden painting Haveli
- Chokhani Double Haveli
- Mandawa Haveli (now a hotel)
Nawalgarh: Not far from Mandawa, just 28 kms away to the south, Nawalgarh is a worthy competitor. Like Mandawa, Nawalgarh also boasts of hundreds of havelis. The ones not to miss are:
- (Ramnath) Anandilal Podar Haveli and museum
- Bhagat (Banshidhar) Haveli
- Morarka Haveli and museum
- Aath Haveli Complex
Other notable Havelis around Shekhawati in Rajasthan:
- Piramal’s Haveli, Bagad, Jhunjhunu (now a hotel)
- Seth Arjundas Goenka Haveli and museum, Dundlod, Jhunjhunu
- Surana Haveli, Churu (Called the Hawa Mahal of Shekhawati)
- Malji ka Kamra, Churu (now a hotel)
- Sone ki Dukan Haveli, Mahansar
- Le Nadine Prince Haveli, Fatehpur (now closed due to legal issues)
- Saraf Haveli, Mukundgarh
- Ram Gopal Podar ki Haveli, Ramgarh
- Charchowk Haveli, Laxmangarh (closed for public now)
Beyond the Havelis of Shekhawati
For most tourists to the Shekhawati region in Rajasthan, the painted havelis are the main attractions. However, Shekhawati is more than just its Havelis. I particularly love its landscape. It’s sort of unique in India; it’s almost desert, but not quite so. There is enough vegetation to keep the green vibes alive.
Shekhawati landscape:
Geographically, Shekhawati region in Rajasthan, especially Churu is gateway to the great Thar desert that spans western part of India and eastern part of Pakistan. The region doesn’t have expansive sand dunes like in Jaisalmer (read: Reasons to love Jaisalmer), but it has a typical landscape unique to this region.
{Love sand dunes? Read: Desert Safari in Dubai}
Being a semi-arid region, Shekhawati landscape looks almost like a desert, but has enough greenery to make it look even more beautiful. With whatever little precipitation the region receives, it shows off its green side mostly through its millet fields. But one cannot miss the omnipresent Khejri trees (Prosopis Cineraria). In winter, these Khejri trees without leaves stand all over the landscape in the expansive mustard fields. Believe me, it’s a sight to behold!
On enquiry, the locals told us that the leaves of Khejri tree is a favorite among the goats. And goats are a favorite ruminant among the households. They take away every leaf that these trees have to offer, and in turn offer them to their goats. So, the leaves that come up in monsoon are gone by winter time. But these leafless trees make the landscape look absolutely fascinating!
Mini Jaisalmer near Churu:
Just 7 kms away from Churu on the highway #52, a small village is slowly but steadily becoming a tourist attraction, mainly because of its sand dunes. I guess that there was this small sand dune some entrepreneur noticed, and thought of a business idea. A little road side eatery and a camel were enough to attract the travellers’ attention.
It’s a nice little stop over on the highway. Hike onto the sand dune, take a camel ride if you like, and have a street snack or a soft drink. All in 30 minutes, and then you are off either to Churu or Mandawa. Owing to its growing popularity, tourists have started referring to it as Mini-Jaisalmer.
On the flip side, I had a bit of concern to notice that this little new tourism opportunity is encouraging more entrepreneurs to set shop nearby. Actually, the problem is that they are cutting down large number of Khejri trees to make more sand dunes! More sand dunes means more desert-fun sports like hang-gliding. And more fun options means more tourists, which will lead to more cutting down of trees! Where does it stop!
{Read my views in this regard: Sustainable Tourism}
While it’s good for local economy, it’s not good for local environment at all. Here comes the role of the local government to step in so as to bring that balance between tourism and environment.
{Further reading: Role of government in sustainable tourism.}
Life and culture:
The quaint villages and small towns in the Shekhawati region of Rajasthan don’t look like happening places. They have a very slow pace of life. Not only the havelis are abandoned, but most of the households also face similar fate. The young and educated people have shifted base for greener pastures leaving behind the old.
Farming is not particularly prosperous due to scanty rainfall. But the old people keep farming for the meager harvests. Like most arid and semi-arid regions, animal husbandry is a dominant occupation in Shekhawati.
In recent times though, tourism has been picking up. Haveli owners are renovating their properties to open heritage hotels or museums for tourists. Even entrepreneurs from other parts of the country are taking these havelis on lease to run hotels. As a result, there are more jobs for the villagers now. Things are changing now!
It’s quite amusing to see horse carts, camel carts and donkey carts keep pace with with modern day fancy vehicles. Further, I cannot highlight enough the richness of Rajasthani food, music and dance. Of course, it’s no different in the Shekhawati region.
Heritage wells of Shekhawati:
One more thing that attracted my attention through out Shekhawati region in Rajasthan is the heritage wells. Since Shekhawati is a semi arid region, water has always been premium. So much so that wells were as important as temples! They built proper foundation with four minarets around the well, and had enough space for people to sit or gather. Unlike the stepwells, people had to use ropes to draw water from the well. The water was used both for drinking and irrigation purposes.
{Further similar reading: Stepwells of India}
Other monuments: Temples, Palaces, Heritage Ponds, etc
Though Shekhawati is not especially known for its palaces and forts, there are a few good one none-the-less. Among the important palaces of Shekhawati are:
- Alsisar Palace in Alsisar (now a heritage hotel)
- Castle Mandawa, Mandawa (now a heritage hotel)
- Khetri Mahal in Jhunjhunu (now in dilapidated condition)
- Dundlod fort in Dundlod near Jhunjhunu (was under renovation when we visited)
- Badalgarh/ Faizalgarh fort
- Laxmangarh fort, Laxmangarh
- Surajgarh fort, Surajgarh
- Mahansar fort, Mahansar near Churu
- Sethani Ka Johara, Churu
Apart from forts and palaces, there are innumerable cenotaphs (Chhatris), temples, royal heritage ponds, stepwells, etc. If you have time, keep exploring them. For religious people, among the important Hindu temples of the region are:
- Salasar Balaji temple (Lord Hanuman), Salasar, Churu
- Khatu Shyam ji temple, Sikar
- Rani Sati temple, Jhunjhunu
- Raghunath ji temple, Mahansar
How to explore the Shekhawati region
As said above, the Shekhawati region comprises mainly of three districts- Churu, Jhunjhunu and Sikar in north-east Rajasthan. However, it’s such a large area, one feels confused about how to explore the area. So, here are some pointers:
- Best time: The weather is good from beginning of autumn (Oct) to end of spring (Mar). Within this period, if you are a landscape lover, plan for winters. Because, the landscape becomes especially beautiful during the winter months of January- February.
- Landscape differences: Though landscape is similar all over the Shekhawati region, there are subtle differences. For example, while Churu gives more desert vibes, Jhunjhunu is greener. So, head to Churu if you want to see some sand dunes.
- Haveli hopping: Please look above for the major locations of Havelis. However, if you don’t have much time, just head to Mandawa; it has good number of amazing havelis.
- Look beyond havelis: Apart from the havelis, the region has a good number of temples, heritage wells, cenotaphs, forts and palaces as well.
Travel Tips: Shekhawati in Rajasthan
How to reach:
- Jhunjhunu is the gateway to Shekhawati region in Rajasthan.
- By flight: Nearest airport is Jaipur, 180 kms north of Jhunjhunu. One has to take some other means (see below) to reach there.
- By train: Jhunjhunu has a railway station; regular trains from Jaipur and some other cities.
- By bus: Shekhawati region is well connected by bus from major cities of Rajasthan, Haryana, Punjab and Delhi. But these are basic buses, not luxury ones.
- By taxi: Jhunjhunu is 250 kms away from Delhi, and 180 kms from Jaipur. So, it’s quite convenient to take the road trip.
- For weekend trips from Delhi, I think driving down or taking a taxi is the best option.
Where to stay:
One may choose to stay in any of the towns of Jhunujhunu, Churu, Mandawa or Nawalgarh. But I would suggest to stay in or near Mandawa, as it has the largest number of things to explore. Besides, it’s central to the whole of Shekhawati region. Here are a few good suggestions that I know of:
- Luxury Heritage Hotels: Castle Mandawa || The Legacy Mandawa by Machan || Malji ka Kamra || Alsisar Mahal || Dera Mandawa
- Budget Heritage Hotels: Hotel Mandawa Haveli || Hotel Heritage Mandawa || Hotel Radhika Haveli || Piramal Haveli by Neemrana || Hotel Shekhawati
- Resorts: Desert Nights Cottage || The Desert Resort
- For low budget accommodation, there are enough guesthouses/ homestays, often housed in old havelis.
How to move around:
- Best way to move around in the Shekhawati region is having a car/ taxi. Because the whole area is dusty and if it’s not winter/ spring, the heat can be unbearable.
- For budget travellers, local buses are frequently available though.
Where to eat:
As the region is not that highly developed, or very popular among tourists, there aren’t many great restaurants. So, it’s best to eat at the properties only; most of them prepare decent Rajasthani cuisine. However, if you would definitely like to try out a few places outside, here is a small list:
- Mandawa: Mandawa Pavilion roof-top || Mona Lisa roof-top || Monica || Gwala roof-top || Hotel Radhika Haveli
- Churu: Cloud9 cafe || Malji ka Kamra || Hotel Krishna
- Jhunjhunu: Laziz restaurant || Jhunjhunu Haveli || Radhe Rani restaurant
Concluding Thoughts
I must say visiting Shekhawati region in Rajasthan, I felt as much joy as sorrow. The whole region has so much beauty that I can keep going back every year. How much I love driving through its villages, towns and semi-desert landscapes! I just love its quaint, sleepy and peaceful vibes. I still remember my morning walk with a friend around a village exploring the farmland, the village, and chitchatting with the locals.
However, my heart pained to see most of the stunning havelis in dilapidated condition. The rich paintings are peeling off the walls. And the walls themselves are falling down. Nobody is really taking care of them! Such sad state of affairs! Anyway, let me keep this subject for another day.
If you love offbeat destinations to explore at leisure, Shekhawati in Rajasthan is the place for you. If you love heritage havelis/ monuments or fresco paintings, this is the place for you. And if you love semi-arid landscapes, Shekhawati is for you.
Wanna know more? Do write to us.
Santosh Gupta
As someone born and brought up in Rajasthan, even i was not aware about such charm, heritage and beautiful havrlies of Shekhavati.
This reading has inspired me to plan a trip to Jhujlnjhunu and the region to explore this hidden treasure.
Thanks Suvendubhai for drafting this and sharing with us.
Santosh Gupta
stampedmoments
Yeah, it’s such a hidden gem! You see!
This place has my heart. I’ll go back time and again.
However, it needs authorities/ govt. to take serious conservation measures.
Thanks Santosh.
Abhishek Tiwari
Me being a part of this journey, really liked the way you explored the places and gained information about the things, and in other hand sharing these experiences with others through your blog is really very phenomenal.
Anyone planning to visit these places and going through you blog before their thrip starts, will be really and insightful for them.
stampedmoments
That trip was awesome, Abhishek!
Let’s plan another trip somewhere 🙂
Thanks for your appreciation.
Sarita Hevia Iphone
Wow!!, it is a stunning place, your description is wonderful
If i have knowed about this place when i visited Jaipur last november, i take a car to go
It will be for the next time
Rajhastan is incredible
Congratulations for your blog
stampedmoments
Hey Sarita! Nice to hear from you!
Yes, it’s lovely place, and very close to Jaipur.
Of course, there’s always a next time!
Thanks a lot for connecting with us.
Nitin
Such a nice article!
Very useful information.
I will visit some day. Thanks.
stampedmoments
Happy that you liked.
Yes, you should visit 🙂