The Western Ghats are not only rich in biodiversity, but are also blessed with myriad beautiful towns across its spread along the west coast of India. These towns double up as great escapes for people living in the hot and humid plains, especially the south Indians. Kodaikanal in Tamil Nadu is one such green paradise. Nestled in the Palani Hills and lush green forests, Kodaikanal is an enjoyable place through out the year. Especially popular for its serene lake and spectacular landscapes of the Western Ghats, Kodaikanal is among my favorite hill stations for the monsoon season.
Unlike common perception, Kodaikanal is situated quite high in the mountains (~7300 feet or 2225 mts). Do you realize that it’s in the same elevation range as Shimla, and higher than Gangtok or Aizawl! Though Kodaikanal has numerous tourist attractions, including a rich colonial heritage, Kodaikanal Lake is its heart and soul. It’s around this lake the whole city, and its tourism activities flourished over the years.
{For more such hill stations with lovely lakes, check out: Nainital (Uttarakhand) ||| Mirik Lake (West Bengal)}
Kodaikanal, reminiscence of the colonial past
Unlike other hill stations of India, Kodaikanal owes its origin to the Americans rather than the British. However, it was a British officer- B.S. Ward, who first surveyed the area in 1824, though the report published in 1834. By this time Ooty was already established in 1827. A few years down the line, the Madurai Mission run by the Americans built some houses up the hills in Kodaikanal as a retreat. Slowly, and gradually, the British started building roads, houses, churches and military establishments there. And the rest is history. To know more about its interesting history, here’s a nice article: History of Kodaikanal}
‘Kodai‘ meaning ‘gift’ in Tamil, and ‘Kanal‘ meaning ‘forest’, it literally translates into ‘gift of the forest’. Justifying the literal meaning, Kodaikanal blossomed in the forests spread over Palani Hills. Kodaikanal Lake which used to be a swamp, was developed by the British in 1863, and it became the center of all attraction soon afterwards.
Kodaikanal Lake: Our monsoon delight
Reaching there: A road trip from Madurai
In June 2023, we visited Kodaikanal as a road trip from Madurai before proceeding to Thekkady- Pariyar. After a photography session in the morning at the Meenakshi Temple, we left for Kodaikanal late in the morning. The 120 kms road from Madurai to Kodaikanal has two distinct features. Half the route, ~60 kms, till Kattamanpatti, the terrain was flat. A right turn from there took us on to the ghat road towards Kodaikanal.
The ghat road was really scenic and enjoyable with forests, springs and water bodies all along. We stopped over at a few places to enjoy the view, and take some nice pictures. The Silver Cascade Waterfall was right on the road! Though the water didn’t look silver because of monsoon rains, I could imagine its silver colour during other seasons.
On the way, however, we had a flat tire, not far from Kodaikanal. It was heartening to see a fellow driver stop to help us out, and we were done quickly. Reaching Kodaikanal around 4 PM, we checked in and relaxed for a while. Then it was time for a walk around Kodaikanal Lake, and the main market area.
First impressions:
As I took first steps in the charming hill station, I realized its significant resemblance to Ooty, the other most popular hill station in Tamil Nadu! The lake, landscapes, and its colonial heritage, everything was like a replica! Its streets were neat and clean with typical hill-station-like houses on both sides. Greenery all around, and flowering trees in front of houses, numerous parks and gardens filled me with positive energy, and a sense of happiness. Since it was monsoon season, the whole town was rain-soaked, which made it even more charming.
A walk (around Kodaikanal lake) to remember:
Then it was time for our first tete-a-tete with one of the most iconic lakes in south India- the Kodaikanal Lake. Since we had booked our hotel really close to the lake, it was helpful. A walk of less than a kilometer took us to the banks of Kodaikanal Lake. At first sight itself, it looked charming under a cloudy evening sky. We could see the Boathouse on the far side, and took a stroll to reach there.
Kodaikanal Lake, heart of the hill station:
Like in Ooty in Tamil Nadu, Kodaikanal is also an artificial lake. In 1863, the then Collector of Madurai- Sir Vere Henry Levinge ordered the digging of Kodaikanal Lake, especially as a regular source of water for the increasing population at the small hill station. Interestingly, from the very beginning, one of the purpose of the lake was to enhance the beauty of the place.
As planned, Kodaikanal Lake became the center of attraction for all the foreigners living in the plains. It didn’t take much to build the reputation of Kodaikanal as a hill station. And very soon, local Indians started thronging the place. With verdant hills around, the 24-hectare star-shaped lake has become the heart and soul of Kodaikanal.
Like dozens of other tourists, we also booked a small paddled boat to row around Kodaikanal Lake. It was getting dark due to the clouds hanging over the lake. So, we got only about thirty minutes to enjoy a lovely rowing experience in the tranquil waters of Kodaikanal Lake.
A lovely evening in the town:
As it got dark, we kept walking from the Municipality Boathouse towards the 2nd Boat Club. In fading lights, the street shops came alive, as also the colourful lights by the lakeside. We thoroughly enjoyed our evening-walk around the lake before getting to the local market near Kodaikanal bus stand. At the market, I remember having the best Vada of my life! With that Vada and Puran Poli, we had Masala Chai, and that made our evening.
Best places in Kodaikanal: Beyond the Lake
Since Kodaikanal is a small town, there are not many big things to see, or do. However, it does have a few interesting places to visit. One must cover a little bit of heritage and bountiful of natural sites to complete the Kodaikanal experience.
Next morning, as per plan, we started off early to explore some interesting places away from Kodaikanal Lake. Before reaching our first destination, we had a visual treat of the landscapes of Palani Hills. Layers and layers of blue hills with lush green forests, the landscapes looked magical.
La Salette Church:
While the Americans and the brits were busy settling down, a French Missionary actually built the first church in Kodaikanal. With generous donation from a Belgian lady, they founded the La Salette Church, dedicated to “Our Lady of La Salette” in 1866. In fact, its construction started in 1863, the same year Kodaikanal Lake was dug up. So, along side the Kodaikanal Lake, this church is the oldest heritage in the town. To know more, visit their official page: La Salette Shrine.
The name “La Salette” owes its origin to a small village in south-east France. In 1846, two shepherd boys had the vision of a weeping virgin Mary. Trusting the boys, the local catholic authorities built a church over there. Twenty years later, Kodaikanal got its own “La Salette” shrine. Afterwards, such shrines have been built at many places all over the world. Also read: “La Saleth, Kodai’s French Connection“.
Standing over a little hill, the church sits in majestic fashion. Built in Tamil- French architectural style in white and blue, its a beautiful little shrine. The church has two main building one each dedicated to Our Lady of La Salette and Saint Joseph, the earthly parents of Jesus Christ. With a nice green premises, and cute landscaping, the setting looks like a page from a fairytale.
When we visited the shrine, there were not many visitors around. So, we spent some peaceful time at the shrine, and loved hanging out in its lush garden.
Guna Caves:
Sometimes, the mystery creates more hype than reality. This is certainly the case with Guna Caves in Kodaikanal. Discovered in 1824 by the first British surveyor- B.S. Ward, it remained oblivious till about 1990s. He had named it “the Devil’s Kitchen” then. It was only in 1991, when the Kamal Hasan starrer movie- “Gunaa” was shot here, Guna Caves became popular. Scorers of tourists started visiting the caves, and some of them disappeared in the caves without a trace. One such disappearance inspired a Malayalam movie- “Manjummel Boys”.
For safety purposes, now entry into the caves has been prohibited. However, visitors can see the caves from a safe distance. When we visited the caves, our taxi driver dropped us at a distance, and asked us to walk. A few hundred meters’ walk in the forest took us to the cave site. To be honest, there was not much to see! The caves were completely covered in thick forests and grass. The only fascinating aspect was the numerous trees with their weird looking roots spreading like tentacles over ground.
Bryant Park:
How would a hill station look like without a beautiful park! Though there are numerous small and big parks in Kodaikanal, one park is of special mention. Not far from Kodaikanal Lake, H.D. Bryant set up a small park in 1908 that has now grown to 20 acres. Now under the Horticulture department, the park is home to hundreds of varieties of flowers, butterflies and birds.
I was especially impressed by the landscaping and curation of of the different sections of the park. Walking around the park was so enjoyable that we wished we had some more time! If you are a flower lover, do look for the Annual Flower Show organized at the park every year in May.
Coaker’s Walk:
Walking around hill stations with a mountain- valley view is among my favorite things to do. Less than a kilometer from Kodaikanal Lake, running parallel to Bryant Park, a stretch of narrow pedestrian path, called Coaker’s Walk is an amazing place to walk and relax with a view of the valleys. In 1872, Lieutenant Coaker had constructed this kilometer long pathway for a pleasurable walk.
On a clear day, they say, one can see as far as Periyakulam town or Madurai city! But we were not so lucky as it was a cloudy day. Nonetheless, we enjoyed a walk with misty views of the valley. One should visit the place especially during sunrise or sunset for the best views. For even better views, one may visit an observatory on the way.
Myriad other interesting places in and around Kodaikanal
Apart from the four places mentioned above, and Kodaikanal Lake, there are a few other myriad attractions. In any case, the taxi drivers there would know where to take the tourists. But I am putting the must-visit places and other places separately so that one knows where to spend more time, and plan accordingly.
In the periphery of the town:
- Lutheran Church: Built in 1932, it is known for its Gothic architecture. It’s close to another church- Christ the King Church.
- Pillar Rocks: 400 feet granite rock formations; basically, a view point.
- Pine Forest: Just 3 kms away from Kodaikanal Lake, it’s an area with a thick canopy of pine trees; very walkable area.
- Moir Point: Basically a view point to enjoy the Palani Hills landscape.
- Rose Garden: A new (2018) garden of roses spread over 13 acres.
- Bear Shola falls: A small, seasonal (full during monsoon) waterfall.
- Silver Cascade Falls: 6 kms away on the road to Madurai, this is a small waterfall on the roadside.
Away from the town:
- Dolphin’s Nose: A view point, some 7 kms away from the city. One has to hike a bit to reach the view point.
- Berijam Lake: 23 kms away from Kodaikanal Lake, this is a small lake in the upper Palani Hills.
- Mannavanur Lake: 35 kms away, another lovely lake in the forest.
- Thalaiyar Waterfall: ~60 kms away, this is the highest (975 feet) waterfall in Tamil Nadu. Though the base of the waterfall is accessible, it takes a hard trek. But one can see the waterfall from a distance on the way from Madurai to Kodaikanal.
Heading to Thekkady- Periyar:
Once we were done with the sightseeing in Kodaikanal, it was time for us to leave for Thekkady- Periyar, our next destination in the neighbouring state of Kerala. For the 150 kms, it takes about 3 and half hours. But it was the scenic views on the way that was the highlight. Right from Kodaikanal to Thekkady, the whole ride was through the forests, tea gardens, spice plantations, lake and dams on the roadside! Manjalar dam, an artificial reservoir looked stunning from a distance.
Kodaikanal: Travel Tips
Best time to visit:
It’s always a good time to visit Kodaikanal. Because the weather remains pleasant through out the year. Even during the monsoon months of June to September, which is an off season, we loved being there.
How to reach:
- Flight: Nearby airports are at Madurai (120 kms), Trichy (150 kms) and Coimbatore (175 kms). From there, one can take a taxi/ bus to reach Kodaikanal.
- Train: The nearest railway station is at Kodai Road, only 80 kms away.
- Bus/ Taxi: One can also take a bus or taxi from the nearby major cities like Madurai, Chennai, Coimbatore or Bengaluru.
Where to stay:
It’s good to look for an accommodation in the vicinity of Kodaikanal Lake. Being a popular hill station, it has plenty of all kinds accommodation options. Here are a few budget options.
- Hotels: Western Valley Home ||| Hotel Greenlands ||| Hotel Tamil Nadu ||| Yagappa Heritage Resort ||| Berry’s Kodaikanal ||| Hotel Raindrops ||| Hotel Greenpark ||| Le Grace Apoorva Residency.
- Hostels: Zostel Kodaikanal ||| Tripper Kodaikanal ||| DOSTel ||| Hostel Jerusalem (popular among female solo travellers)
How to get around:
Since it’s a small place, one can easily walk around the Kodaikanal Lake area, and nearby markets. For exploring places in the town, one can hire a bicycle or scooter. However, for places outside the town, taxis are the best option. Local buses are available, but not very frequent.
What/ Where to eat:
- Must try dishes: Tamil Thali ||| Ghee roast ||| Kodaikanal parotta-salna ||| Kodaikanal roast lamb ||| Chettinad chicken.
- Suggestions for restaurants/ cafes: Altaf’s cafe ||| Lakeview ||| Whistler Cafe ||| Muncheez Kodai ||| Aroma’s Kodai ||| Cloud Street ||| Punjabi Tadka ||| Aby’s Cafe ||| Royal Tibet ||| Pastry Corner.
Things to do in Kodaikanal:
- Boating in Kodaikanal Lake: Take a small paddle boat and enjoy a slow rowing experience
- Nature walk at Coaker’s Walk, or by the Kodaikanal Lake side, or Pine Forest
- Cycling in Kodaikanal Lake area: Bicycles are available near Kodaikanal Lake area
- Trekking to Thalaiyar waterfall or Dolphin’s Nose viewpoint
- Shopping in local market: Local chocolates, jams, sauces, oils, herbs, spices, shawls, other woolens, bamboo craft, wooden craft, and artificial jewelry.
Final Thoughts
Even though we visited Kodaikanal in the monsoon season, we got lucky not to have too much rains. It was mostly cloudy, but didn’t rain. So, we had a lovely weather to roam around Kodaikanal Lake, and the small town. We loved the experience so much that we would love to go back sometime soon. Since we were there only for two days, we couldn’t experience any cultural activities. Next time, we would like to stay there at least for a week to explore the culture of the place, and engage in some people-interaction.
Kodaikanal is among the most popular hill stations in south India, and for good reason. Kodaikanal Lake and the landscapes of Palani Hills have our heart.
If you are planning to visit, I hope you find this article helpful. And if you want to know more, do contact us.
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