A great city that it is, Ahmedabad lacks the desired green spaces and is low on the natural beauty quotient. For most part of the year, it remains a hot, dry and a dusty city. It lacks the much needed green spaces that I wish a city should have. Fortunately though, just an hour’s drive to the south of the city takes one to a blissful place- Nal Sarovar. During my decade long stay in Ahmedabad, I visited Nal Sarovar, a beautiful lake and bird sanctuary many a times as a day trip. In this article, I’m sharing those lovely memories.
In the semi-arid climate of central Gujarat, Nal Sarovar comes as an oasis for the millions of Ahmedabadis. Like many Indian cities, Ahmedabad has two distinct sides- an old, historic Ahmedabad, and a new, modern Ahmedabad. I must say, I loved both the sides, albeit for different reasons. Old Ahmedabad for its old world vibes, and new Ahmedabad for its discipline and order. However, more on that in a separate article, later.
Nal Sarovar: A little fact sheet
Spread across 120 sq km, Nal Sarovar is a lovely lake, wetland, Ramsar Site, and an important bird sanctuary. Inside the lake, there are at least 36 small islands with interesting flora and fauna. About 250 species of birds, both resident and migratory, flock the lake throughout the year. But especially in the winter and spring seasons, it becomes a bird lover’s paradise.
{If you love lakes, do have a look: Loktak lake (Manipur) ||| Periyar lake (Kerala)}
Flamingos, pelicans, storks, cranes, purple moorhens, seagulls, and many other exotic birds throng the lakeside. If you are a bird enthusiast, here’s a good resource site: Birds of Gujarat. The migratory birds come from as far as central Asia and Siberia. When it gets too cold there in the winters, food becomes scarce. So, they fly all the way to India, and other tropical countries for better living conditions. They follow earth’s magnetic field to trace their way. Nal Sarovar, Chilika lake and Bharatpur wetland are among the hubs for these migratory birds in India. Later when conditions improve there, and it starts getting hotter here, they leave. Isn’t it a mindboggling natural phenomenon!?
Moreover, a wetland itself is a complex and fascinating ecosystem to explore and know more about. Not only birds, but reptiles, small animals on the islands, under-sea creatures, plants, all make it so rich. Besides, one can easily witness other wildlife in its periphery, like wild ass, nilgai (an antelope), black bucks, and more.
{More reading suggestion on lakes: Serolsar Lake (Himachal) ||| Vembanad Lake (Alleppey- Kerala)}
Tracing its history:
Though Nal Sarovar was declared as a bird sanctuary in 1969, it has a long history right from antiquity. Some government websites mention that Nal Sarovar was formed due to construction of a check dam on the Sabarmati river in the 15th century! But I have my reservations about this theory. Because on the map, I don’t see Nal Sarovar anywhere near the river. Maybe, I need to understand more on this.
But the other theory holds good, in my view. In pre-historic times, there was a natural channel connecting the gulf of Khambat with the gulf of Kutch (know more). In course of time, the channel got silted, and land mass formed over it. However, patches of that channel still exist, of which Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary is one part. The large area of wetland around Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary, and some more in nearby villages point to that period.
{If you like sanctuaries and national parks, check out: Kaziranga N.P. (Assam) ||| Kanchenjunga N.P. (Sikkim)}
Things to do at Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary
It was some 12 years ago, I last visited Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary. But the memory is fresh in my mind. Whether the picnic on the island, or the excitement of watching migratory birds, the lake offers some very interesting things to do. Here are the most interesting ones.
Bird watching:
Of course, the no. 1 thing to do at a bird sanctuary is always going to be bird watching. As I said earlier, it’s heaven for bird lovers. Do check out the list of birds (link above) that you may expect at Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary. The best way is to reach the lake before sunrise, and take a boat ride across the wetland surrounding the lake. If you want to recognize the birds, it’s a good idea to hire a guide there.
Boating:
If you get late to reach the lake, number and variety of birds will be thin. But you can always take a pleasant boat ride in the lake. There are different sized country boats to choose from (see below in travel tips section). Irrespective of the birds, one will surely enjoy a boat ride in the shallow waters of the lake. The water is transparent; so, one can see the under-water plants and creatures from above. Seagulls seeking food will chase your boat, and feeding them is so much fun!
Picnic:
A short boat ride will take one to a small island, a good place for picnic. I was last there 12 years ago. So, I have no idea if they are allowing picnic on the island now or not. However, I don’t think they would be stopping you from carrying your own food. Besides, there are a number of green spaces around the lake also to have your picnic.
Walking around:
Irrespective of whether you are a bird lover or not, you will like a stroll by the lake. Enjoy the serene views of the lake, observe the birds and other wildlife around the lake. Away from the pollution of the city, it’s a great way to unwind.
Fun activities:
Wherever there are tourists in Gujarat, there are horse and camel riders. Not a bad idea to take a fun ride, if you like, as Lina did the other day. If you are in a group, play your favorite outdoor games in the green spaces along the lake. Foodies can have local cuisine at the food huts near the lake.
Fond memories of Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary
As I said earlier, during my decade long stay in Ahmedabad, I visited Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary many a times. Every time, it was in the winters, but with different groups of friends. And each time, we had very different experiences.
2008, my first tryst with the lake:
Though I came to Ahmedabad in 2005, I visited Nal Sarovar for the first time in 2008. Because I had no idea such a lovely natural beauty lies so close to Ahmedabad. It was only after I joined DSC, my colleague-friends told me about the lake. I still remember my first visit to the lake on 14th January, 2008. The date isn’t difficult to remember because it’s a popular date in Gujarat, the festival of Uttarayan.
Uttarayan, the kite festival:
Every year, on 14th January, the day of winter solstice, Gujarat celebrates Uttarayan, the kite festival. In fact, it’s a popular festival across India, but known by different names, for example, Pongal (Tamil Nadu), Lohri (Punjab), Magha Bihu (Assam), Suggi (Karnataka) and Makar Sankranti in most parts.
Like Onam in Kerala (click to read), all sections of society celebrate this festival in Gujarat. I haven’t seen a more enjoyable festival than this. The whole family would come up to the roof top to fly kites with music, dance and good food. The entire sky fills with colourful kites. From morning, they would typically continue till sundown, and even late into the night. In recent times, with the introduction of lantern kites, even the night sky comes alive. The atmosphere needs to be seen to be believed.
Picnic on the island:
That day, I joined some colleagues (Vikash and Mahendra) and their families to drive to Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary in the morning. Since they had small kids, we couldn’t start as early as we should have for bird watching. Reaching the lake late, we took a country boat to cruise across the lake to a small island. We went up a watch tower to get a panoramic view of the lake and the wetland area. Since it was quite late in the morning, not many species of birds were to be seen, except for the seagulls. They are such a show-saver!
Like all other groups in the island, we also found our own place for a little picnic. It was not really a picnic though, because we were carrying our own food, and not cooking there! I devoured on the yummy free food on offer, and had a real good time with the kids. On the way back, I remember trying my hands at boating as well. Back in Ahmedabad, I joined some other friends in flying kites. Indeed, it was a memorable day of Uttarayan!
2010, Bird watching on a winter morning:
The second visit happened two years later in 2010 with Prashant, a close friend of ours. Lina, my sister used to live with us back in those days. So, four of us started in the wee hours of the morning to reach Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary before sunrise. Quickly, we hired a boat and went into the wetlands.
This time, we could observe many varieties of birds like cranes, storks, ducks, geese, ibises, coots, herons, egrets, etc. However, the stars of the day were the purple moorhens and of course, the seagulls. Since I didn’t have a good camera, sorry for the bad quality of bird pictures here!
2012, Bird watching experience got better!
After the first two visits, I knew how to have a good bird watching experience. This time in 2012, we were a large group- many colleagues at GSWMA who had become friends by then. I feel like saying everyone’s name: Prakash, Moksha, Manikant, Binoy, Sunita, plus, Lina, Parina and I.
We started quite early, and reached Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary before sunrise. Without wasting any time, we took a boat and explored the wetlands thoroughly. This time, we could see a lot more birds, mainly because, we went farther, quite deep into the wetland area. It was exciting to watch all the birds, especially the purple moorhens in large numbers in their natural environment.
However, like the previous two times, we found no pelicans or flamingos. Honestly, it was quite disheartening not to see any of these exotic migratory birds at Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary. But then a local of Nal Sarovar area, told us the secret! He said that since water levels were above knee high, pelicans and flamingos don’t find it suitable to feed themselves. So, they fly to nearby even shallower wetlands. He also suggested some nearby villages where we can search for these birds.
Driving around those villages, we actually found these birds in large numbers. Sadly though, they didn’t let us go any closer to them than ~100 meters. As if they had sensors fit in their brains, as we kept walking towards them, they kept walking away from us! But watching them from far also made our day.
Travel Tips for a day trip to Nal Sarovar
Best time to visit:
Ahmedabad is hot throughout the year except the winter months of December and January. So, this is the most pleasant time to visit Ahmedabad, and Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary. However, there’s a catch. The water level in the lake generally is a bit too high for some birds who walk around to feed themselves. Water level in the wetlands recede substantially by February, and early March. So, bird lovers should plan their visit in February.
How to plan a day trip:
- Start as early in the day as possible, as sunrise is the best time for bird watching
- Reach Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary before sunrise
- Talk to the boatmen at the lake to venture into the wetland; prices are generally competitive
- Slowly navigate through the wetland surrounding the lake
- After two hours’ of boating, land on the island in the lake
- Spend as long as you like on the island, enjoy a picnic, if you like
- Come back to the jetty, and play some outdoor games
- If you want to see more birds, ask the local boatmen, and drive around the nearby wetlands.
How to reach:
- Reaching Ahmedabad is easy; take a flight or train from any major city in India
- About 60 kilometers from Ahmedabad, Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary is an hour’s drive.
How to get around:
- Boating is the best way to get around the lake, and watch birds
- For individuals, a boat ride for 2 hours costs around Rs. 220
- If you take the whole boat for 6 people, it costs Rs. 1320
- Cost of a group package: a boat of 6-seats for 3 hours is ~ Rs. 5500 for Indians and Rs. 12,000 for foreigners, which includes entry fee and guide charges, etc.
Where to stay:
- Since Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary is to the south of Ahmedabad, it’s good to stay in central/ south Ahmedabad. Good areas: Thaltej, Bopal, Vejalpur, CG Road, Vastrapur, Paldi.
- Some budget hotel suggestions: The Lotus Park || SN Blu Hotel || The Mantra One || Pristine Residency || Carrefour || Urbane the Hotel || Silver Heights || Silver Cloud.
What/ Where to eat:
- Must try: Gujarati Thali || Khaman-Dhokla | Fafda- Jalebi || Dabeli || Gujarati dry snacks like Thepla, Khakhra
- Some popular cafes/ restaurants: Agashiye || French Roast || Lucky Tea Stall || Rajwadu || Chandra Vilas || Zen Cafe || Pol Kholi || Java Cafe || Manek Chowk (for street food).
Concluding Notes
Cities with not much natural beauty avenues can be boring at times. Ahmedabad, though one of the most prosperous cities in India, and very high on livability index, was often boring to me. But, Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary was a good option for an occasional day trip with friends. Though I’m not a morning person, I didn’t mind waking up early to witness that magical sunrise at the lake.
I have good memories of the lake. We had so much fun, I’m sure, my friends too remember our visits fondly. I wish one day, when I visit Ahmedabad again, I go on another day trip to Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary with the same friends, and see the changes. It would be so much more fun, and nostalgic!
Watching the birds in their natural environment is always a lovely experience. Along with Bharatpur and Chilika lake in Odisha, Nal Sarovar is among the top sites for bird lovers. If you are a bird photographer, Nal Sarovar is an amazing place to spend a few days. So, when you visit Ahmedabad next, do plan for at least a half day trip to Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary. If you need some help, do reach out.
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