If you want to witness the stark differences in landscapes between 5,000+ feet and 14,000+ in a matter of 50+ kilometers, just drive from Gangtok to Nathu La Pass. From lush green mountains, driving through clouds, reaching this snow-covered high altitude pass is an awe-inspiring experience. In April 2024, on the last leg of my Sikkim trip, I visited Gangtok for a few days. One of those days, I took a wonderful day trip from Gangtok (Sikkim) to Nathu La Pass. Looking back at the day, I still get goosebumps!
My Sikkim trip started from Pelling in the west, went up to Yuksom (know more), then back to Ravangla and Namchi before reaching Gangtok. It was amazing to see the diversity of Sikkim, such a small state in north east India.
Before visiting Sikkim for the first time in 2019, I thought east, west and north Sikkim are all similar. But I couldn’t be farther from the truth. Though all over its landscape is mountainous, the subtle change in landscape from region to region is amusing. From verdant hills to sky-kissing snow-clad mountains, and everything in between, Sikkim is an exhibition of landscapes. Similarly, communities and culture vary from place to place, though Buddhism is a common factor across the state. Would you believe, they are so different that not all of them understand each others’ language! More on this in a separate blog post!
{If you love north east India, do check out: Kaziranga (Assam) ||| Darjeeling (WB) ||| Tawang (Arunachal)}
Nathu La Pass: Significance
Sitting atop 14,140 (4310 mt) feet over the Himalayas, Nathu La Pass has been the link between India and China (Tibet) since time immemorial. It’s not the highest mountain pass that I have been to, but definitely the most memorable. In the recent past, I have been atop Shinku La at 16,702 ft (Zanskar), Khardung La at 17,582 ft and Chang La at 17,688 ft (both in Ladakh). But while these visits were in dry season, it rained and snowed when I visited Nathu La Pass. That made the visit even more adventurous and exciting.
Apart from its high elevation, Nathu La Pass has a great history with an offshoot of the “Silk Routes/ Roads” passing through it during the ancient times. {Further reading: India and the Silk Roads (Jagjeet Lally) ||| Silk Route in Sikkim}
Nathu La Pass remained a trade route all along. In fact, trade was the main reason why the British brought the Kingdom of Sikkim as a protectorate in 1861. Post independence of India, border disputes with China meant Nathu La Pass became a flash point. Much later in 1975, Sikkim acceded to India, and Nathu La became India’s official trade route with China.
However, Nathu La Pass is not only important for commerce, but it always facilitated cultural exchanges as well. Most importantly, Indians use the pass as a gateway to the Hindu spiritual journey of Kailash- Mansarovar.
My day trip from Gangtok to Nathu La Pass
On my previous trip to Gangtok in June 2019, I wanted to visit Nathu La Pass. But unfortunately, it was closed for visitors at that point of time due to landslides. Since this time it was in April, the roads were fine, and the weather was good too. So, I decided to take a day trip to the pass.
I had not booked my trip to Nathu La Pass in advance since I was not sure if it would be open for visitors. Plus, the travel agents were asking for too much money (~ INR 6000). So, I thought it would be a better idea to reach Gangtok, and bargain. While checking in at the hotel, I got the number of a taxi driver who offered me a better price (~INR 4500). I asked the driver to reach my hotel in the morning. He asked for my Driving License and photo for official permission, which he got done in the morning.
I started the day by walking around the MG Marg soaking in the peaceful morning vibes, and taking some lovely pictures. When the driver arrived around 8 AM, I asked him to first take me to the Enchey Monastery on the way. Since we had to collect the permission letter from the local authority (office opened ~9 AM), it served as a good use of time too.
Enchey Monastery:
Established in 1909, the Enchey Monastery belongs to the Nyingma order of Vajrayana Buddhism. Aesthetically designed like a Chinese pagoda, it looks absolutely gorgeous in those bright colours and paintings.
The monastery is one of the principal temples in Gangtok. The land was blessed by Buddhist Lama Drupthob Karpo, and none other than Guru Padmasambhava had subdued the spirits of Kangchendzonga, Yabdean and Mahakala in the temple. On a clear day, one can see the peak of mount Kangchendzonga from its premises. It was interesting to observe the monks in their daily routine. I was happy to meet a monk and have a word about the significance of the monastery.
After spending about half an hour at the monastery, we left for Nathu La Pass around 8.30 AM. Our first stop was the check post at Third Mile. As soon as the office opened ~9 AM, we got our pass and started driving towards Nathu La Pass.
The drive up to Nathu La Pass:
As we left the city behind, we found the mountains under a thick cloud cover. The visibility was still okay, and the drive was very enjoyable. In a matter of some 15 minutes, we were above the clouds! The gain of elevation was so fast! As we started gaining more elevation, it started raining, albeit very lightly.
On the way, the driver took a sister-duo in the car as they were struggling to find a vehicle to go to Changu lake, where they had a small local costumes shop. We had a nice conversation about their village, people, culture and livelihoods. We dropped them at Changu lake, but didn’t take a break. Since we were getting late to reach Nathu La Pass, we thought of first visiting the pass, and stop over at the lake on our way back.
After driving for about an hour and half, the driver stopped at a small shop (maybe in Thegu). At the shop, he asked me to wear an additional winter jacket and snow-boot since Nathu La Pass was full of snow. I remembered stopping over at the same shop a few years ago while on our way to Baba Harbhajan Shrine.
In about 30 minutes from there, the driver stopped again to transfer me to a bigger vehicle. Since his small car was not allowed at Nathu La Pass, he had arrangement with another guy waiting for us. I noticed that it was quite a normal practice there.
Reaching Nathu La Pass:
After another 30 minutes drive from there, we reached Nathu La Pass around 11.40 AM. It took us a total of two and half an hour’s drive (with two breaks) for the 58 kilometers. The last stretch of 30 minutes was an absolutely crazy drive with snow everywhere around us. As we approached the top of the pass, it started snowing lightly. Such an amazing experience to feel the fresh snow flakes!
The driver asked us to trek from there to the top of Nathu La Pass, and come back in 30 minutes. They don’t allow anyone to stay there longer than half an hour.
Indo- China Border Post
Nathu La Pass is one of the five check posts where Indian and Chinese Army hold regular meetings. With a long-standing history of border disputes between the two countries, it’s important to hold these meetings. Once I trekked (100- 200 meters) up to the top of Nathu La Pass, I could see the Chinese office buildings on the other side of the wired fence. Though I couldn’t see any Chinese Army personnel, our own Army people told us that in clear weather, one could even talk to the Chinese personnel!
Interestingly, the time on my mobile changed to Chinese time zone up there! Why is it so? It’s because some Indian mobile service providers (especially Airtel) have understanding with Chinese companies to share network. Since the Chinese network is stronger there, our mobile phones automatically change to Chinese Standard Time (CST). For me, it took a few hours to get back to Indian Standard Time (IST)!
How it felt up there:
Literally, Nathu La Pass means “whistling pass” or “listening ears pass”. However, I felt that the Chinese description is more appropriate- “the place where snow is deepest and wind is strongest”. The few minutes that I spent at the top really felt that way.
Since it was snowing, the whole area was full of fresh snow. It felt great walking in knee-deep snow. Visitors were having a great time playing with snow like at a winter resort! But the cold wind was really strong and sharp. So, one would find it very difficult to be there for long. Besides, at such a high altitude, oxygen levels are very thin. Thus, one finds it difficult to breath well. So, I descended quite fast from the top, and got into the waiting taxi.
One bad experience was the air pollution up there. There were at least 400- 500 vehicles up at Nathu La Pass at that time. Since it was snowing, all the smoke remained at 6 feet level, and one had to breath that black poison. It led to a sever headache for me which got cleared only when I was back in Gangtok.
Tsomgo/ Changu Lake
While coming back, I did stop over for half an hour at the Changu/ Tsomgo/ Tsongmo lake. I found out one of those girls who we had given a free-ride, and took some pictures in their local costume. Riding yak back is a popular thing at the lake. So, I did ride one for a picture.
At 40 kms from Gangtok, and at an elevation of 12,313 feet (3753 mts), this oval shaped lake looked spectacular with snow clad mountains in the background. All the snow melting in the summer creates this beautiful lake. Interestingly, the water changes colour with changing seasons. Besides, the lake holds spiritual significance for Buddhists and Sikkimese people in general. Every year during Raksha Bandhan/ Guru Purnima, a special fair is celebrated at Changu lake.
Since the lake is right on the way to Nathu La, it always sees a lot of tourists beside it. With tens of costume photographers, yak owners and street food vendors, the place has a great vibe.
Getting back to Gangtok:
After enjoying the buzz around the lake, I headed straight to Gangtok. On the way back, we stopped at a lovely waterfall by the roadside. However, soon afterwards, it started raining heavily making it difficult to drive in poor visibility.
By the time we approached Gangtok, the rains petered away gradually, and we reached by 3 PM. However, one may choose to take a detour to Baba Harbhajan shrine on the way. On a previous visit to Gangtok, I had visited the shrine with Parina and brothers; so, I skipped it this time.
Baba Harbhajan Shrine
In order to visit Baba Harbhajan shrine, or simply Baba Mandir, one has to take a diversion from Sarathang towards Kupup valley. In fact, there are two Baba Mandirs. While the old shrine is about 14 kms from Sarathang, the new temple is only 4 kms away (58 kms from Gangtok). {Know more: Baba Mandir}
“Baba” Harbhajan Singh was a soldier in the Indian Army. His life and death are shrouded by a number of legends. For example, one legend says that the Baba’s spirit still roams the valley, and helps out soldiers in times of need. The two temples have been built in reverence for his departed soul.
Though the shrines themselves are really modest ones, the valley is very nice to spend time at. From the new temple, a little hike across the valley takes one to a little Shiva statue. When we visited there in June 2019, we spent about an hour hanging out in the valley. The meadows, small running streams across the valley and wild flowers made the hike so enjoyable. The waterfall just beside the Shiva statue was so pretty!
Nathu La Pass: Travel Tips
When to visit:
- Pleasant weather: Summer months of April to mid- June, and autumn months of October and November
- Remains closed during winter months of December to March due to heavy snow fall
- Since it rains quite heavily, it’s good to avoid the monsoon months of July to September
- Open days of the week: Wednesday to Sunday; remains closed on Monday and Tuesday.
Getting the permission:
- Since it’s a defense sensitive zone, only Indian tourists are allowed
- One must get permission from the Tourism Department and Police
- Though most of the times, it’s an easy thing, it’s advisable to apply a few days before the date of visit
- One needs to apply through a registered travel agency. If you are booking through a travel agency, they will take care; else, ask your driver
- Documents needed: Identity proof: Voter I-card/ Driving License/ Passport, plus two passport size photographs. They don’t accept Aadhar Card as identity proof.
How to reach:
- In order to visit Nathu La Pass, one has to reach Gangtok, the capital city of Sikkim. The nearest airport is at Pakyong, 27 kms away from Gangtok
- Siliguri in West Bengal is the nearest railway station
- By road, one can take a bus/ shared taxi from Siliguri
- From Gangtok, it’s a 2-hour drive to Nathu La Pass. So, one may hire a taxi or take a shared taxi. Hiring a taxi costs between INR 4000 to 6000. A seat in a shared taxi costs between INR 1000 to 1500
- Some people prefer booking well in advance with travel agencies. Though this is a good practice to avoid uncertainties, it’s really not required. One can book a taxi/ shared taxi on arriving in Gangtok, and bargain a bit to save some money.
Where to stay:
- Budget Hotel suggestions (Gangtok): Greendale Residence ||| Muscatel Grand Silkroute ||| Tarayana ||| Orchid Lords Eco Inn ||| Pearl Retreat ||| Zip by Spree ||| Rendezvous.
- Hostels/ Homestays suggestions: Aurahomes Homestay ||| Mellow Fellow Hostel ||| Tag Along Backpackers Hostel ||| Zostel ||| Zemu.
Where to eat:
- Not many options at Nathu La Pass; only small roadside eateries along the way
- Best restaurants/ cafes in Gangtok: Lhasa Newar Kitchen ||| Shuffle Momos (MGM) ||| Cafe Fiction ||| Lil’ Tibet (MGM) ||| The Local Cafe ||| Baker’s Cafe ||| The Square (MGM) ||| Nimtho (MGM) ||| Taste of Tibet ||| The Coffee Shop.
Concluding Note
Most of the high mountain passes in India are in Leh- Ladakh, and are difficult to reach for most travellers. However, owing to its location, Nathu La Pass offers a relatively easy option. Plus, this one is refreshingly different too, with lush green vistas on the way. Adding to the fun, Gangtok itself is a great travel destination.
My day trip to Nathu La Pass was as much adventure as fun. Yes, it was not easy at the top, but the journey was beautiful. I will always fondly remember the clouds, the snow flakes, the waterfalls and the lakes. If you are contemplating visiting this high mountain pass, don’t wait any more.
Wanna more travel tips? Do write to us.
Rajalaxmi Swain
Wow! Beautiful and lovely place.
stampedmoments
Yessss! It’s an amazing place!
Thanks for the comment.