A quaint little town at 10,000 feet above the sea level with the mighty Himalayas overlooking from all around. Crystal clear glacial lakes, gorgeous spotless blue sky, and awe inspiring landscapes. A thriving peace loving Buddhist population mingled with Tibetan culture, contrasting an omnipresent military establishment. Yes, we are talking about Tawang Valley in Arunachal Pradesh, India’s eastern most state; and this is your ultimate travel guide to visit Tawang.
If you have visited Leh-Ladakh (click to read my experience) in India’s extreme north direction, you will find Tawang quite similar; yet, a lot different as well. Though Arunachal caps India’s eastern boundaries, Tawang Valley is not that east. It lies at the western border of the state, very near to Bhutan in the west, and Tibet- China in the north. Tawang Valley in Arunachal is undoubtedly one of India’s most beautiful Himalayan towns.
{Love Himalayas? Read more: Darjeeling ||| Dalhousie ||| Mussoorie}
First time in Tawang Valley in Arunachal:
Though our first visit to Tawang Valley in Arunachal in the autumn this year was extremely tasking physically, it was a wonderful experience, nonetheless.
After quite a bit of research, we decided to plan our first trip to Arunachal in October. We thought autumn would be nice weather and good conditions for photography. While the latter proved true, the weather was still not the best to enjoy. The temperature was barely in two digits, and it was windy too! Parina caught cold in no time. And then it was hard times for her. I managed just about somehow.
However, on the positive side, the highlights of the trip were our visits to Bumla pass (Indo-China border) and Tawang monastery. The breathtaking landscape of Tawang Valley in Arunachal reminded me of my times in Ladakh the previous year. Besides, I love visiting Buddhist monasteries. To my delight, Tawang Valley and the whole of Arunachal have plenty of them.
It’s difficult to miss the signs of Indo-China 1962- conflict, and its current reflections in the large presence of troops. Contrary to our expectations, there were hardly any villages/ towns on the route, and thus, a very sparse population. In fact, it’s likely that one would see more troops than civilians! Visiting the War Memorial and related sites was a great learning experience.
{For more such experiential guides, read: Triund trek in McLeodganj ||| Dzukou Valley trek in Nagaland}
Tawang Valley in Arunachal: A little fact sheet
What’s in a name!
Legend has it that in the 17th century, a Tibetan monk (Mera Lama) discovered a gorgeous green pasture while searching for a horse. In love with the place, Lama built a beautiful monastery there. Later habitation came up around that monastery, and it came to be known as Ta-wang, which translates into ‘chosen by horse’ (Ta: horse; Wang: chosen). Though there are other versions, I loved this one!
Brief history:
Some places are more important for their history and culture than anything else; Tawang is one of those. Till 1914, Tawang was under Tibetan rule, when it signed an agreement with British India recognizing McMahon Line as the international border. Since then, British India took control of Tawang and the rest of Arunachal Pradesh. Quite naturally, even after British relinquished India in 1947, it remained under Indian rule.
In 1962, China took control of Tawang briefly during the Indo-China war. Surprisingly though, they retracted voluntarily afterwards, although they haven’t stopped claiming it later! (Suggested further reading: BBC article). Thus, it continues to be a flash point of future war between the two neighbouring nuclear powers. This clearly explains the presence of large Indian troops in Tawang.
Under Indian possession, Arunachal Pradesh was earlier known as North Eastern Frontier Agency (NEFA) till 1972, when it got its current name. Its name literally translates into ‘the land of the rising sun’, which signifies the first point of sunrise for the Indian subcontinent. Along with the new name, it became a Union Territory in 1972, and got full statehood in 1987.
People:
Tawang Valley in Arunachal Pradesh belongs to the Monpa people, largely. Monpa means “from the land of Mon”, ‘Mon’ meaning south of Tibet. Monpas are followers of Tibetan Buddhism now. They speak a language of the Tibetan-Burmese family, and write the Brahmi script. Monpas contribute generously to religious causes. In fact, the monasteries manage their finances from these contributions. Their religious allegiance is so high that if they have three children, the middle one mostly becomes a monk!
Tawang Valley in Arunachal: Your ultimate guide
One needs at least 5 days to visit Tawang Valley in Arunachal Pradesh. Of course, to explore more nearby places, one needs to add days. But we had planned for 5 days. Let me share our itinerary (and experience) so that you can plan for yourself.
- Day-0: Reached Guwahati late in the evening.
- Day-1: Road trip (by bus) from Guwahati to Tawang Valley via Bhalukpong. It takes 20 hours! We started in the morning on day-1 and reached there the next morning.
- Day- 2: Explored local Tawang town, planned for Bumla pass visit the next day.
- Day-3: Visited Bumla pass and Madhuri lake; Tawang market in the evening.
- Day-4: Road trip exploring Nuranang waterfall, Sela pass and Dirang. Reached Bomdila in the evening, and night over there.
- Day-5: Explored Bomdila, and road trip to Guwahati via Bhalukpong.
Other places of interest in the Tawang Valley in Arunachal:
Apart from the places that we covered (in the itinerary above), there are a few more places of interest in and around Tawang Valley in Arunachal. One may take note of these, if one has more time.
- Monasteries: Gyangong Ani Gompa || Gorsam Chorten Stupa (60 kms) || Taktsang Gompa
- Mountain peaks: Geshila peak (visible from Tawang) || Gorichen peak
- Other places: Thingbu hot spring (90 kms) || Zemithang village (70 kms).
Day-1: Guwahati to Tawang Road Trip
On my way from the airport to the hotel in Guwahati, I realized that I had forgotten to apply for an Inner Line Permit (ILP) for Arunachal. I applied online immediately, but got no reply! Next morning, however, a guy at the Network Bus station helped us get our ILPs for a small fee. Thus, I guess, apart from the government website, there are a few authorized agencies who provide such services.
Routes from Guwahati to Tawang:
There are two distinct routes from Guwahati to Tawang Valley in Arunachal, via two different entry points. One route goes via Udalguri, Bhairabkunda, Balemu (entry point), Shergaon and Bomdila. The second one goes via Rangapara, Tezpur, Bhalukpong (entry point), and Bomdila. Both the routes converge near Bomdila, and then take the common route of Bomdila- Dirang- Sela Pass to reach Tawang Valley.
Bus service is available only on the second route. We took the second route because we decided to take the bus. As taking a cab both ways would be too costly (~Rs.15,000 each way), we decided to take an overnight bus to Tawang, and take a cab on the way back. So, we booked two seats (Rs. 1500 each) in the only bus available online (though we learnt later that there’s another bus).
Guwahati to Bhalukpong:
The bus was supposed to start at 9:30 AM; but reaching at the Network bus station, we got to know that a pick-bus would take us to the ISBT bus station, from where we would board the main bus. The bus started around 11:00 AM. Though it was not Volvo-class, it was comfortable (non-AC), marginally better than the local buses. However, it was not good for sleeping at night.
Irritatingly, through the day, it kept stopping at places to pick and drop local passengers. I guess, because there were not enough direct passengers to Tawang, they had to take local passengers to cover their costs. Besides, since there are only a few buses, they are used as goods carriers as well. It took a longish stop at a vegetable mandi (market yard). All these stops were time consuming, but understandable.
The bus took a turn before entering Tezpur. By the time it was dark, we reached Bhalukpong, the entry point for Tawang Vally in Arunachal Pradesh. It’s a small town shared by Assam and Arunachal, although it primarily belongs to Arunachal. There was an easy checking by the border police, where we all had to get down from the bus. They checked our ILPs and let us board the bus on the other side of the border. In the meantime, I got enough time to visit a Durga Puja pandal where Dussehra festival was in full swing.
Bhalukpong to Tawang Valley:
From Bhalukpong, the bus picked up some speed, and reached Nag temple for dinner around 9.30 PM. The food was just manageable. After dinner, we tried to sleep (whatever we could), albeit with a lot of difficulty. We didn’t really notice any other town or the Sela pass on the way. The bus did stop at a new tunnel (Nechiphu tunnel) allowing us to take some night shots of the tunnel.
Towards the end of the journey, it became really cold in the bus, though manageable with one good jacket, and a cap. Reached Tawang on scheduled time at about 6.00 AM.
Day-2: Tawang Town
Getting down from the bus, the first thing that I noticed was the absolutely clean sky and fresh air. Though the temperature was below our liking, the air felt like full of oxygen, and the sky was spotless blue. Seriously, it felt so fresh that I felt like breathing deep to my heart’s content. Such a drastic/ pleasant difference from the polluted air of Delhi!
We had a bit of struggle identifying the guesthouse, but reached with some help from the owner (Nawang). The room at the guesthouse was not too well insulated; so, it was going to be two difficult nights for us, I guessed!
Nawang introduced us to his brother- Chambe, who had a cab, and we booked him for the day. After a good nap, we got freshened up, and Chambe came to pick us up to show us around the town.
Tawang Monastery:
Tawang Valley in Arunachal is synonymous with its famous monastery- Gadyal Namgyal Lhatse monastery, also known as Tawang Monastery. Founded by Merak Lama, a disciple of the 5th Dalai Lama, H.H. Nagwang Lobsang Gyatso in 1680, it’s the second largest Buddhist Monastery in the world. It administers over 17 gompas (Buddhist Temples) and houses about 300 monks.
{For more spiritual destinations, read: Shravanabelagola (Jainism) ||| Varanasi (Hinduism) ||| Rishikesh (Hinduism)}
As much as I had heard about the iconic monastery, it more than lived up to my expectations. The beautiful 3-storey building with typical colours used in Tibetan architecture- bright red, golden and blue just took my breath away! The paintings inside the monastery and the 28-feet high statue of the Buddha are quite impressive as well. Besides, the monastery houses a museum with ancient scriptures and Buddhist artefacts.
Apart from its religious importance, the monastery offers a breathtaking view of the Tawang Chu valley and the Tawang main town. On the other hand, the yellow roofs of the buildings in the monastery campus make it a visual feast as seen from main Tawang town.
The Giant Buddha Statue:
On a small hill in the Tawang Valley in Arunachal stands a giant Buddha statue; it’s about 30 feet high. While moving in and out of the town towards Bumla pass, one cannot really miss the view.
Surrounded by mountains on all sides, it gives a panoramic view of the Tawang Valley. We spent about half an hour there having an eye-full of the view. Fluttering of the Buddhist prayer flags around the monument created some magical vibes. When we visited the site, they were offering tea and food to visitors, which we happily accepted.
Urgelling Gompa:
One of the reasons why Tawang Valley in Arunachal is holy to the Buddhists is because it’s the birth place of their 6th Dalai Lama- H.H. Tsangyang Gyatso. In his memory, they have built a monastery there, just about 3 kms from the main town, Tawang.
As it’s away from the market place, and lies in the wilderness, the tranquility of the place is remarkable. One can hear the silence; I felt like I was experiencing peace and serenity at their best. The gompa has a simple yet lovable Tibetan architecture.
Tawang War Memorial:
Apart from the holiness of the place, Tawang Valley in Arunachal is known for its history of tussle between India and China. China’s aggression in 1962 has left indelible scars, which can be seen all over the place. There are two War Memorials in the region: Tawang War Memorial in the town itself, and the other one is on the way to Sela pass- Jaswantgarh War Memorial.
The Tawang War Memorial is a 40 feet monument that resembles a stupa. The artefacts, maps, helmets, guns, etc used during the war kept at the memorial evoke emotional vibes. However, I especially liked the war stories presented in an organized manner.
Tawang Market:
Even though there were a large number of tourists in the town when we were there, the market didn’t seem crowded. The shops were relatively empty. Most of the shops sold beautiful ceramic products and Buddhist memorabilia. Parina wanted to shop some ceramics, but we decided against it, mainly because of logistics issues. But we did buy some Buddhist memorabilia.
Day-3: Tawang Valley to Bumla Pass
Actually Bumla pass and Shungetsar lake come on the same route from Tawang. About 22 kms north of Tawang, the route divides into two. While one goes up to Bumla pass, the other goes to Shungetsar lake. Both Bumla pass and Shungetsar lake are about 35 kms from Tawang.
However, following the advice of our driver, we decided to visit Bumla pass first. And I would suggest everyone to do the same. This is because it’s too cold and windy up there, and weather can get really rough in the afternoon.
Bumla Pass:
After Tawang monastery, perhaps Bumla pass is the most sought after place in Tawang Valley. At 15, 200 ft, it’s one of India’s highest passes, and the connecting point between India and China.
We wanted to start early in the morning, but couldn’t. Because it was so cold that we found it difficult to wake up early. Anyway, we started about 8 AM. Our driver had got the required permission from the local authority. On the way, there was only one check post to check the permissions.
The route to Bumla pass is absolutely picturesque with spectacular Himalayan vistas, brown-red landscapes, and gorgeous blue lakes. We came across at least 4-5 small and big lakes on the way. The most prominent lake among these was the Panga Teng Tso lake.
The seasonal vegetation that had come up in Tawang Valley (towards Bumla Pass) during the summer, had already started dying because of the cold weather of October. Interestingly, the dying vegetation made the entire landscape to look red at many sections.
We reached the top of Bumla pass at about 10 AM, and stayed there for about an hour. The Army has a strict regulation for the tourists there. In fact, they make groups of tourists and guide them to the last accessible point. At the last point, they narrate some stories of 1962 war, and share some factual information of the border, and how it’s managed between India and China.
Shungetsar Lake / Madhuri Lake:
By the time we left Bumla pass around 11 AM, Parina had started feeling really bad, partly due to the cold related health issues, and partly because of high altitude related sickness. (Learn more: Acute Mountain Sickness). We started coming down quickly as she lay down in the car itself in the backseat.
In spite of her bad health, she asked me to proceed towards the Shungetsar lake. It was about 25 kms from Bumla pass; it took us about an hour to reach there, i.e. around 12 PM. For the last 4-5 kms, road was in really bad condition. Parina kept lying in the car; but I walked up to the beautiful lake.
The locals have started calling it Madhuri lake after the legendary Bollywood actress- Madhuri Dixit shot a movie (Koyla) scene here in 1997. Spread across two mountains, the lake really looked spectacular. And the dead tree trunks in the lake made the landscape look fascinating as well. The dead tree trunks are witness to an earlier period when the lake was a grazing ground with trees around. An earth quake in 1950 resulted in creation of the lake!
{Further reading on Himalayan lakes: Nainital ||| Dal lake in Kashmir}
As Parina wasn’t well, I had to return as quickly as possible from the site. And we headed back to Tawang without wasting any time. Reached Tawang around 2 PM.
Day-4: Tawang Valley- Sela Pass- Dirang- Bomdila
Next morning, we started a little late- around 10 AM. We had planned to reach Bomdila by the evening while covering at least three places on the way- Nuranang waterfall, Sela pass and Dirang monastery.
- Tawang to Bomdila: 175 kms
- Tawang to Nuranang waterfall: 30 kms
- Nuranang to Sela pass: 40 kms
- Sela pass to Dirang: 60 kms
- Dirang to Bomdila: 45 kms
An interesting war story:
Among the many stories of Indo-China war, perhaps none is more compelling than the story of Rifleman Jaswant Singh Rawat. When he was absolutely outnumbered against an advancing Chinese Army, he got help from the most unlikely source. Two local Monpa girls- Sela and Nura helped Jaswant Singh hold the fort for 3 days at one post. However, later the Chinese Army got hold of a supplier to know that there was only one Indian Army personnel fighting them! Afterwards, they didn’t take much time to kill Jaswant Singh and Sela, and captured Nura.
Today, there is a War Memorial in the name of Jaswant Singh (Jaswantgarh War Memorial, on the way from Tawang to Sela pass) to pay him rich tributes. Besides, the said mountain pass is named after Sela, and a waterfall is named after Nura (Nuranang waterfall).
Nuranang Waterfall:
At about 30 kms from Tawang towards Sela pass, there is this most beautiful waterfall- Nuranang waterfall (also known as Jang falls or Bong Bong falls) near Jang village. We reached at the waterfall by 11 AM. From the base location itself, the waterfall looked amazing! It’s about 100 meters steep hike down to the waterfall. Parina couldn’t do the hiking because of her back issues. So, I climbed down alone the steps to reach beneath the waterfall.
The water falls about 100 meters, flows about 100 meters before meeting the Tawang river. I spent about 30 minutes at the waterfall; getting wet in the gushing water beneath the waterfall was quite exciting.
Sela Pass:
We left the waterfall no later than 11.30 AM. and drove towards Sela pass, about 40 kms away. It was the most arduous patch of road on the entire Tawang- Bhalukpong route. The road became really bad as we came closer to the Sela pass; reached there around 1 PM.
At 13, 700 feet (4170 mt) high, it’s one of India’s highest mountain passes, and connects Tawang and West Kameng districts of Arunachal. But more importantly, it offers absolutely jaw dropping views on either sides of the pass, on Tawang side and on West Kameng side. The Ladakh-like landscape is awe inspiring to say the least.
On Tawang side, the apex point boasts of the most scenic lake- Sela lake. It’s one of the 101 sacred lakes for Buddhists around Sela pass. As we drove to the other side of the pass towards Dirang in West Kameng district, I must say, the barren landscapes became even more beautiful.
However, as we drove nearer to the town of Dirang, the barren landscapes slowly gave way to green forests down the mountain slopes.
Dirang:
After another 2 hours drive and a 30-minute lunch break, we reached Dirang around 4 PM, just before evening, but there was enough light to enjoy the picturesque Dirang town, and Dirang monastery.
Dirang is among the top tourist destinations/ hill stations in Arunachal; unlike Tawang Valley, it’s not as difficult to reach here. The Dirang river flowing calmly among the hills and small lovely villages with golden paddy fields made the landscape look gorgeous. Besides, the town perched across the hill slopes looked beautiful from a distance.
Though we visited only the Dirang monastery, there are a few more places of interest in and around Dirang: Sangti Valley || Dirang Djong (fort/ jail) || Mandala Top || Khastung Gompa.
After spending about half an hour over there, we left for Bomdila around 4.30 PM, and reached Bomdila about 6.30 PM.
Day-5: The return trip: Bomdila to Guwahati
Bomdila:
Bomdila is a lovely town, the head quarters of West Kameng district of Arunachal. One can easily spend a few days of vacation in the cool town. As we were just spending a night there like a transit place on our way back to Guwahati, we didn’t have much time to explore the town. However, we carry back the view of the beautiful town that we had from the balcony of our hotel. Really wonderful view of the mountains overlooking the town! However, before leaving Bomdila, we made it a point to visit the beautiful Bomdila monastery.
We were looking for a public transport/ shared jeep to reach Bhalukpong from Bomdila. But there was none available. We got to know that there was only one bus that runs early in the morning, and seats in the shared jeep had to be booked at least one/ two days in advance! Since early morning was difficult for us, and we had not booked jeep seats in advance, we had to book a taxi to reach Bhalukpong and onward to Guwahati.
We left Bomdila for Bhalukpong around 11 AM. As we drove towards Bhalukpong, the mountains became more and more greener and denser. To make things even more interesting, waterfalls would appear out of nowhere, just outside our car-windows!
Bhalukpong:
We reached Bhalukpong, the border between Arunachal and Assam around 1.30 PM. Our taxi handed us over to another taxi, perhaps because of administrative reasons, or for ease of operation. It would have been too long a journey for one driver to drive from Bomdila to Guwahati and come back the same day!
Bhalukpong is where the mountains meet the plains. It’s a nice cute picnic location with the Kameng river flowing through the region. We noticed quite a large number of resorts and activity spots along the river, perhaps frequented mostly by tourists from Assam.
Tawang trip: Miscellaneous tips
How to plan:
If you liked the itinerary that we followed, the above reading is a good plan for you. But I would suggest adding one more day in Dirang, and maybe a day in Bomdila. So, plan for 6-7 days for a relaxing trip. Plus, one may face permit issues/ weather issues too. So, keeping an additional day in hand is a good idea. It takes some effort to reach there, not easy to visit again and again. Thus, having enough time is crucial to enjoy, maybe the once in a lifetime kind of experience.
Best time to visit:
From weather point of view, Autumn (mid Sep to mid Nov) and Spring (mid Mar to mid Apr) are the best seasons to visit Tawang Valley in Arunachal. Tawang Festival is organized by Arunachal government in October every year; a great time to experience the culture of Tawang Valley. (Read more: Tawang Festival). Though February would be too cold, Tibetan New Year- Losar falls in this month, and it’s another great time to experience Tibetan Buddhist culture.
How to reach:
Though there is an airport in Tezpur, one would find very few flight options. So, practically, Guwahati is the nearest airport, 435 kms away. From there, one has to take a bus or taxi to reach Tawang, depending on budget, comfort level, and availability of time.
The routes: There are two distinct routes from Guwahati in Assam to Tawang Valley in Arunachal, via two different entry points. One route goes via Udalguri, Bhairabkunda, Balemu (entry point), Shergaon and Bomdila. The second one goes via Rangapara, Tezpur, Bhalukpong (entry point), and Bomdila.
Bus service is available only via the second route, i.e. via Bhalukpong entry point. But the first route is more scenic places to stopover (like Bhairabkund, Indo-Bhutan border and Shergaon). As taking taxi both ways is a costly affair, one may think of taking the bus to reach Tawang Valley, and taking a taxi via the other route on the way back.
Road condition: Roads are mostly fine in Tawang Valley in Arunachal, except for some sections, especially near Sela pass.
Where to stay:
Budget hotel suggestions: Tawang Heights || Dewa Elegance || Zambhala hotel || Tourist Lodge Tawang (govt.) || Hotel Mon-Valley || Monyul Residency.
Hostels/ Guesthouses: Dolma Khangsar Guesthouse || Tawang Homestay || Dondrub Homestay || Nawang from Tawang.
How to move around:
Taxi is the only way to move around in Tawang Valley in Arunachal. Taxis are not cheap; per day charge would be around Rs. 6000, like in most mountain destinations.
What/ where to eat:
- Mostly Tibetan and Assamese/ Bengali cuisine are popular in Tawang.
- Some suggestions: The Dragon || Dharma Coffee House || Northeast Flavors || Orange || Blue Pine || Sno-Yak || Woodland || Greenwood || GTK Kitchen.
Inner Line Permit:
As for most of the north eastern states, one needs an Inner Line Permit (ILP) to visit Tawang Valley in Arunachal Pradesh. Not to worry though, it’s easy to get one. Just head to the Arunachal government’s official website: eILP-Arunachal. However, if you face any problems receiving your permit in time, ask agents in Guwahati upon your arrival; they will provide one for some nominal fees.
Importance of planning and preparation:
As they say, all good things come only after the hard work! This cannot be any more true for a trip to Tawang Valley in Arunachal; at least this is how we felt. Starting from reaching Tawang Valley, to moving around the sites, the weather and the budget, everything came at a lot a of effort or cost. But the rewards were amazing!
Parina faced some health issues, and I had to put in a lot of effort to keep her in good stead. She enjoyed a little less than me. But overall, it was a wonderful trip.
As stakes are high, planning is very important for a trip to Tawang Valley in Arunachal. Keep a day or two in hand, over and above the planned itinerary. Keep enough warm clothes, irrespective of the season. Book a good hotel with a warmer. Basically, ensure your stay to be comfortable to feel relaxed and be in good physical and mental health.
Concluding Thoughts
Future of tourism in Tawang Valley in Arunachal:
One blessing in disguise is that currently, because it’s difficult to reach the Tawang Valley in Arunachal, it’s still unspoiled. The air is pure, and the water is crystal clear. However, that’s going to change in not far future. Indian government is investing heavily in building road and other infrastructure to increase habitation as well as tourism in the region.
So, in coming days, it will become easier to reach Tawang Valley in Arunachal. As more and more tourists arrive there, it’s bound to get polluted. Here comes the role of government in promoting tourism in a sustainable manner. Further reading suggestion: Government’s role in sustainable tourism.
Change in landscapes:
Before I wind up, did you notice one thing- the change in landscape from Tawang Valley to Bhalukpong in Arunachal? If you didn’t go back to the top, and have a relook. From barren cold-deserts to lush green forests, isn’t the gradual change remarkable!
Go fall in love with the pristine landscape!
Shrusti Mohanty
Loved it, your writing takes the reader right to the place you are describing, it’s so honest!
stampedmoments
Hi Shrusti!
Thanks for your practical feedback.
Yeah, I basically write to share experiences, and a bit of tips.
Glad that helps fellow travellers.
Have a great new year, cheers!
Dinesh Ray
Good article. I’m planning to go here, will be helpful.
stampedmoments
Thanks a lot, Dinesh!
Glad that you found it useful.
Keep connected.