Ninh Binh is like nowhere else. Not only its landscape is unique, the cultural experiences are in a league of its own. If I have my way, I would designate Ninh Binh as the definition of paradise. Its dreamy, charming landscape is straight out of a fairytale. Rivers crisscrossing through caves, forests and mountains create such a magical land! It’s hard to describe in words. On our November 2024 Vietnam trip, we went for a day trip to Ninh Binh from Hanoi. Though it was originally not in our itinerary, a postponed flight made this possible. Sometimes, blessings do come in disguise! We loved this Ninh Binh Tour so much that it went as the most beautiful day in our entire Vietnam trip.
Far from the madding crowd of Vietnamese cities like Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh, Ninh Binh is made for the peace loving soul. The quintessential rural life of Vietnam set among karst rock hills and charming backwaters is worth spending weeks at length.
{For more such travel experiences, have a look: Chinag Mai (Thailand) ||| McLeod Ganj (North India)}
Ninh Binh Tour, the UNESCO World Heritage Site
Trang An Landscape Complex in Ninh Binh is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site in the mixed category, both for its natural and cultural significance. It includes three things: Trang An- Tam Coc- Bich Dong scenic landscape, Hoa Lu ancient capital and Hoa Lu special-use forest. Studies conducted by archeologists have established the fact that humans have occupied the caves in the area for over 30,000 years! More recently in timescale, Ninh Binh was the capital of Vietnam in the 10th century.
{Do you know of any such mixed UNESCO site in India? To know, check out: Kangchenjunga N.P.- Yuksom}
However, its reputation as a tourist destination comes from its spectacular landscape. Limestone karst vertical peaks standing close to each other make sharp valleys through which the Red river delta spreads across. The delta is so net-like that it’s difficult to say if the peaks are jutting out of the waters or the valleys make way for the river. Indeed, it’s a fascinating place to explore.
Just a few days before taking the Ninh Binh Tour, we had visited Ha Long Bay on a day trip from Hanoi. The vertical landscape in Ninh Binh was almost the same except that rivers replaced the bay. So, it’s no surprise that people call Ninh Binh as “Ha Long Bay on Land”.
{If you love destinations with extensive waterways, check out: Alleppey Backwaters (Kerala) ||| Sundarbans N.P. (WB)}
Our Ninh Binh Tour in November 2024
On the day we were supposed to take a flight back home from Hanoi, the airlines cancelled the flight and offered us seats the next day, which we accepted happily. Looking back, I can only smile at our good fortune. Because we got a chance to take a day tour of Ninh Binh, which turned out to be our best day in Vietnam!
Though it’s not common for us to take guided tours, we decided to take this guided tour of Ninh Binh since we had only one day on hand. Because we thought that a guided tour will enable us to experience more things than if we did it ourselves. And fortunately, we got a good travel agency- Holidays with Hanna.
Hanna offered us a day tour that included four different experiences in Ninh Binh. A cycling experience through the rural heartland, explore the Hoa Lu ancient capital, the popular Trang An boat ride and climbing the Mua Caves. Each of these experiences had a different charm of its own.
Starting from Hanoi:
Our Ninh Binh Tour day started early around 8.30 AM. The limousine picked us up from near our hotel in central Hanoi. Since it was a guided tour, there were a few more tourists in the vehicle. In about an hour, the limousine stopped over at a convenience complex ~9.30 AM. Along with the public utilities, there was a large handicraft shop as well. Among various kinds of handicraft products, it was nice to see the exhibition of traditional Vietnamese paintings.
Ninh Binh Tour begins at a resort:
From the stop over, it wasn’t a long drive; we reached Ninh Binh ~10.20 AM. Reaching Ninh Binh, we headed straight towards a lovely resort- Trang An Heritage Garden.
Surrounded by verdant environment and set up in a tranquil village, the resort was a perfect base. With curated gardens, nice rooms, a good restaurant, the resort looked like a cool place to stay for a few nights. Moreover, I was really happy to get away from the urban Hanoi life to see the rural Vietnam. After parking the vehicle at the resort, they took us on a cycling tour in a village in Ninh Binh.
Cycling in the Rural Heartland:
If you want to see the daily life of people in a new place, walking is perhaps the best method. But if you don’t have the time to walk around, cycling is the next best option. The Ninh Binh tour couldn’t have started any better than this. At the resort, they had tens of cycles parked for us to choose from. Since Parina isn’t fit/ confident enough to ride a bicycle, she chose to stay back at the resort. I joined the group in an enjoyable ride through a quiet village.
The cycling tour gave us ample opportunity to see the fascinating landscape up close. Besides, it was nice to stop over for a few minutes here and there witnessing the people engaged in daily rituals and chores. Small houses with nicely curated courtyards resembled those in Indian villages.
The thirty- minute cycle ride culminated at the resort. Boarding the waiting bus, we headed to the next destination of our Ninh Binh Tour- the ancient capital at Hoa Lu.
Exploring Hoa Lu Ancient Capital:
Between the late 10th century (968) and early 11th century (1009), a rebellious warlord- Dinh Tien Hoang (Dinh Bo Linh) successfully carved out a new kingdom from the Southern Han dynasty of China. He established his capital in a 300 ha area in Hoa Lu. The capital complex included palaces, exterior protection walls, temples and other official buildings. Ly dynasty, the next dynasty in power moved the capital to the present day Hanoi. Though the ancient citadel of Hoa Lu no longer exists, some monuments do exist for visitors to explore.
Of the principal two temples, we visited one- temple of Dinh Tien Hoang, the first king. Built in the 17th century on the grounds of the original citadel, the temple is still in fairly good state. Though the structure is not massive, its beauty lies in its simplicity and intricate carvings. Due to paucity of time, we couldn’t visit the other temple nearby, dedicated to the second dynast- Le Dai Hanh (born: Le Hoan). Before moving to the next destination of our Ninh Binh Tour, it was time to address the hungry stomachs.
A Traditional Vietnamese Lunch:
Ninh Binh Tour is not complete without a traditional Vietnamese lunch. The buffet lunch included Pho (noodle soup), steamed rice, sea food, goat meat (a specialty of Ninh Binh region), steamed vegetable, and com chay (rice crust). For our Indian palette, there were some curries too. After that delicious lunch, it was time for the main attraction of Ninh Binh- a boat tour in the Red river delta.
Trang An Boat Tour in Ninh Binh:
Of all the interesting activities in a Ninh Binh Tour, a boat ride through the delta is the most popular one. In fact, there are two different locations for boat tours: Trang An and Tam Coc. Our Ninh Binh Tour included the Trang An boat tour. Later I realized that there are three different rides to choose from in Trang An also. But since it was all organized by the travel company, we didn’t have to choose any; it was a given.
The hour-long ride through the water alleys passing through caves and forests was a fascinating experience. In the boat, we were accompanied by a couple from Bengal. For me, the ride stood out for two reasons. First, the three cave-systems through which the boat passed. To be honest, I have no words to express that feeling of riding through those dark caves with stalactites hanging vertically down from the roof.
Second, the heritage temples located on small islands within this river delta. Standing inside the water bodies, the three temples (Trinh temple, Tran temple and Suoi Tien temple) that came on the way looked majestic. Apart from their photogenic presence, these temples hold deep spiritual and historical significance.
Climbing Mua Caves:
Mua Cave (Or, Hang Mua) was the last stop of our Ninh Binh Tour. It was one of the numerous cave systems across the Ninh Binh region which were inhabited by early humans.
This particular cave is popular among tourists as it gives an amazing panoramic view of the scenic landscape from its top. Of the twin peaks, one has a small pagoda, and the other has a huge dragon statue. Though the steps leading up to the peaks are common in the beginning, they diverge midway.
By the time we reached there, it was late afternoon, and early evening, a great time to be there. Since the temperature had come down, the climb up to the top of the caves was pleasant. In any case, the climb was not too long (about 500 stone steps), albeit it was quite steep towards the end. However, more than the steepness, the path was too narrow for visitors climbing up and down. But the view was worth taking the pain.
Panoramic view from the top of Mua Caves:
When we reached the peak, there was a mad rush to take a picture with the pagoda. Since there was very little space up there, it really seemed a precarious situation. But somehow, we managed to take some pictures and started the descent.
Below the pagoda peak, adjacent to the complex, there’s a huge artificial lotus lake. Though there were no lotus blooming at that time, it must be a gorgeous sight in the summer months. Apart from the lotus lake, one gets a wonderful panoramic view of the Trang An landscape complex and habitation all around.
This was the end of our Ninh Binh Tour, the most beautiful day in Vietnam to end our trip. Starting around 7 PM from Ninh Binh, it took us about two hours to reach Hanoi.
What we missed out
Since our Ninh Binh Tour was only for a day, we knew that we would miss out on quite a few things. Here’s a list of the top things that we missed out. So, I would suggest keeping at least 2-3 days for your Ninh Binh Tour.
- Tam Coc Boat Ride: Much like the Trang An boat ride, Tam Coc boat ride is fascinating ride through the waterways and caves; Priority: High.
- Bich Dong Pagoda: An old Buddhist temple on the foothill of one of those stunning mountains; Priority: High
- Bai Dinh Pagoda: One of the largest Buddhist temples in south east Asia; Priority: High
- Cuc Phuong National Park: A half-day adventure in the wilderness; Priority: Medium
- Kanh Ga: Explore the local life in a floating village; Priority: Low
- Van Long Wetland Nature Reserve: If you love wetland ecosystems, this is a must for you; Priority: Low.
Ninh Binh Tour: Travel Tips
Best time to visit:
The best months to visit Ninh Binh is during the autumn season through to the spring: October to March. In these months, weather remains pleasant largely. Moreover, during October- November the paddy fields turn golden, and the whole landscape becomes really photogenic. Besides, some major festivals are celebrated in Ninh Binh during January and March.
How to reach:
- The nearest large city to Ninh Binh is Hanoi, the Vietnamese capital city. Just about 100 kms away, Ninh Binh is easy to reach by bus or taxi in about 2 hours.
- Or, one may take a train, which is generally budget friendly
- If you carry an international rider’s license, you may choose to take a motorbike from Hanoi
- Yet another method is getting onto a limousine, generally provided by Ninh Binh Tour operators (see below)
How to book a Ninh Binh Tour:
If you want an easy way, you may just book a Ninh Binh Tour available with numerous travel agencies in any of the Vietnamese cities/ online. And if you want to know about our travel agency, here’s their details: Holidays with Hanna; No. 27 Ma May Street, Hoan Kiem Distt, Hanoi. Phone number: (+84-24)39352619. From our experience, I can say that they are a reliable, and professional agency. Hanna, the owner of the travel agency, is a sweet lady, and gave us some good suggestions, and a good deal too.
Where to stay:
Being one of the major tourist centers in Vietnam, Ninh Binh has a large number of great options for hotels, homestays and hostels. However, I would only suggest a few good budget options, especially homestays. Here’s list of budget accommodation options: Tam Coc Charming Bungalows ||| Chez Beo Homestay ||| Tam Coc Garden Homestay ||| Nomali Hotel ||| Tam Coc Minh Hung Homestay ||| Tam Coc Green Haven Retreat ||| Trang An Heritage Garden (where our tour was based).
What/ Where to eat:
- Popular dishes: Sticky rice with ant eggs || Rice crust (Com Chay) || Nhech fish salads || Goat meat || Bun Cha Quat (Kebab rice noodles) || Roasted field crabs.
- Restaurants/ cafes: Trung Tuyet ||| Hoang Cuisine ||| Thao Beo ||| Duc Nhat ||| Lang’s Salad ||| Chookie’s Bakery ||| Chum Coffee Shop ||| Cloud6 ||| An Tam Coc ||| Brick Coffee Shop.
How to choose your boat tour:
Since the boat tour is one of the most popular activity in Ninh Binh, one needs to know how to choose one. As said before, basically there are major locations for taking a boat tour in Ninh Binh- Trang An and Tam Coc. Further, there are three different boat tour routes at Trang An. For one’s convenience, I share my views below on the differentiating factors for choosing the best tour for oneself.
Trang An or Tam Coc?
Though both Trang An and Tam Coc present with spectacular landscapes, and similar boat ride experiences, there are subtle differences as well. If you have enough time on hand, you should go for both the experiences. But if you have time for only one, here are the differentiating factors.
- Trang An boat ride gives you the opportunity of visiting some old Buddhist temples set in natural environment, which Tam Coc doesn’t have
- Tam Coc presents the most charming rice terraces along the way, unlike the Trang An circuit. However, rice terraces can be seen only during the summer season. Though rice season is from May to October, September- October are the best months when the rice fields turn golden and ready for harvesting
- Trang An has a more rural feeling than Tam Coc. So, if you want to see the countryside up close, Trang An is a better bet.
The three boat tour options in Trang An, Ninh Binh:
- Option-1: 9 caves, 3 temples | 3 hours | Route: Boat Wharf – Trinh Temple – Toi Cave– Sang Cave – Nau Ruou Cave – Tran Temple – Ba Giot Cave – Seo Cave– Son Duong Cave – Khong Palace – Bao Hieu Temple – Khong Cave – Tran Cave – Quy Hau Cave – Boat Wharf.
- Option-2: 4 caves, 3 temples | 2 hours | Route: Boat Wharf – Lam Cave – Thanh Cao Son Temple – Vang Cave – Thanh Truot Cave – Suoi Tien Temple – Dai Cave – Hanh Cung Vu Lam Temple – Boat Wharf
- Option-3: 3 caves, 3 temples | 1 hour | Route: Boat Wharf – Trinh Temple – Dot Cave – May Cave – Suoi Tien Temple – Dia Linh Mountain – Dai Cave – Hanh Cung Vu Lam Temple – Boat Wharf.
- Though option-3 looks the shortest, it goes through the longest cave among the three options.
Concluding Thoughts
Vietnam is such a traveller’s paradise that it offers all kinds of wonderful experiences in a span of a week. From modern city life in Ho Chi Minh to ancient heritage in Hoi An/ Hue to the hustle and bustle of Hanoi to witnessing some of the most awe-inspiring landscapes in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam can leave one spell bound. However, no experience is as beautiful as spending a day in Ninh Binh. A Ninh Binh Tour is what your soul will love and cherish forever.
That lovely day in Ninh Binh is etched in our memory in golden letters. It was more than we ever imagined. Thanks to that postponed flight, we could make it to this charming land came back with happy hearts. So, I would suggest every traveller to Hanoi to squeeze in at least a day for a Ninh Binh Tour, more the merrier. If you want more information on the tour, do write to us.
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