Paris : Two days in the city of light

posted in: Europe, World | 14

I was so enamoured by the Audrey Hepburn starrer “Love in the Afternoon” set in a stunning Paris backdrop that I started dreaming of spending an afternoon in Paris myself. In 2016, I got a chance to present a paper at an important conference on Sustainable Development in Vienna. So, I thought of clubbing Vienna with Paris, a city not far! Though it was a short 2-day trip, the mere thought of the experience gives me goosebumps even today!

{Read about more European cities: Amsterdam ||| Geneva}

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A beautiful Paris street

Paris : the city of light

Paris is indeed charming, and a very romantic city. Its beautiful cityscape, classy buildings, lovely boulevards and river Seine make it a truly lovable city. Do you know, it’s also called the city of light?

Why is Paris called the City of Light?

What’s your guess? Do you think it’s because of the beautiful lighting of the buildings and monuments in Paris? You are not far from the truth, but not quite accurate as well. There is a rich history behind it. 

In 1667, at the end of a long war, Louis XIV or, Louis the Great ordered his Police General to make the city feel safer. One of the measures that he took was to illuminate Paris more by installing street lights, and lanterns all around the city. In those days, it was a first of its kind measure in Europe. Thus, Paris got to be known for its lights. 

However, the notion got stronger in the later period- the ‘Age of Enlightenment‘ (1715-1789). Due to Paris’s increasing depth of education, literature, art and scientific advances, it came to be recognized as the ‘City of light’- light as a symbol of enlightenment. 

Interestingly, there are a number of cities across the globe having this nickname. Click here to know more.

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A street artist in action at an Parisian street

Getting there

I boarded an evening flight from Vienna to Paris- Charles de Gaulle Airport. The airport was about 30 kms away from the main city. So, I needed to catch up a train to go to Gare du Nord, where I was supposed to put up.
After de-boarding, with a little bit of difficulty, I found the railway station. It was a weird feeling to be out there. Because unlike the Indian stations, that station was void of people in the evening. I was a bit scared actually to see the not-so-well lit station there. But somehow, I got into the right train. Later I felt that that particular station would be an exception as it lied outside the city. Because, the other stations in main Paris are quite abuzz till late in the evening.

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Gare du Nord, the station I stayed near

When I got out of the train, and set foot on the Gare du Nord station, and came to the upper floor, the feeling was quite sensational! It seemed like someone has sprinkled perfumes all over the station! Then I realized where I was- PARIS! A city known for its love for perfumes. (Trivia: a little south of Paris, Grasse is the perfume capital of the world).

An error and a sleepless night

I had thought of taking some good rest that night so that I am fresh for the next day in Paris. But an error on my part left me sleepless! I had booked a bed for two nights in a hostel in Gare du Nord. But as an oversight while booking, I had not noticed that the room was marked as “only women”! When I turned up at the hostel that evening, they denied me a bed pointing this mistake. After some convincing, they agreed to give me a bed only when a male guest vacated a bed. I had no other option but to spend the night in their common lounge! 

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St. Christopher's Inn, Paris, the hostel I stayed in

Sitting there all night, I had to enjoy the loud music coming out of their common party place, the courtyard. Though for a while it was enjoyable, the loud music became a nuisance for me later. Luckily, someone checked out in the wee hours of the morning, and I got a bed, at last!

After getting some good sleep in the morning, I left the hostel to explore the charming city, the city of light.

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My walking route map. Source: Google maps

Glimpses of Paris in two days

Eiffel Tower:

It’s cliche. It’s touristy. But if you are in Paris for the first time, you can’t make it second priority! So, obviously, the Eiffel Tower was always going to be the first stop. In fact, I don’t believe in the term ‘touristy’ at all. A thing becomes ‘touristy’ only because it has inspired and mesmerized people for a long time, maybe for generations! So, as John Keats said, “A thing of beauty is a joy for ever”. 

I took a metro to reach the nearest station to the Eiffel tower (Trocadero), and just walked from there. After walking just a few yards, there was the first view of the Eiffel, one of the most visited/ photographed monuments in the world. The view of Eiffel Tower from the Trocadero is perfectly photogenic.

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Posing with the first view of the Eiffel Tower
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View of Eiffel Tower from across the Seine River
Interesting facts about the Eiffel Tower:
  • Eiffel Tower was constructed (between 1887-1889) as a commemoration of the French Revolution  
  • It was the principal exhibit at the World’s Fair in Paris in 1889 (Chief designer: Gustave Eiffel), and showcased France’s modern architectural ingenuity
  • It was meant to be a temporary structure, which was supposed to be dismantled in 20 years!
  • The Parisians loathed it for its design during the first few decades
  • However, later it slowly gained popularity, and became a permanent structure, a symbol of Paris
  • At 1063 ft (324 mts), it is the highest building in Paris, and remained the highest building in the world between 1889 and 1930 (without the antenna, it stands at 300 meters) 
  • It has 5 billion lights on it, could you believe it!
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Enjoying a magnificent view of Paris from the Eiffel Tower

Eiffel Tower has 3 levels, each has a different access fee; the higher one goes, the more one pays. I chose to go up to the 2nd level. The view from the top of the tower is absolutely magical. As it’s the highest building in Paris by a long margin, it gives amazing panoramic view of the City of Lights. From the top, one can view a number of other important landmarks of Paris like the Trocadero (with Palais Chaillot), Sacre Coeur Basilica, Arc de Triomphe, Grand Palais, the Seine river etc. 

Tuileries Garden

After the Eiffel, I took the metro and got down near the Louvre Museum. Though I didn’t enter the Louvre that day, I did click a few pictures in front of the Louvre and soak in the amazing vibes of that square. Then I started walking towards the Tuileries Garden (Jardin des Tuileries) just beside the Louvre.

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Tuileries Garden, Paris

One of the reasons why Paris is so charming is its numerous parks and gardens. Tuileries garden is perhaps the second most popular garden after the Luxembourg Gardens. Spread across the space between the Louvre and the Place de la Concorde, this garden is a lovely place to meet people, relax, and enjoy natural beauty of curated landscape. Originally built as a garden for the Tuileries Palace in 1564, it eventually opened to public in 1667. And later, it became Paris’s first public park after the French Revolution.

From the large central basin (a circular pond) in the garden, I loved the view of a spectacular building on one side and the Place de la Concorde on the other. A pleasant stroll around the garden dotted with ponds and exquisite statues led me to the other side- the Place de la Concorde, my next destination.

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View of the Place de la Concorde from the Tuileries Garden

Place de la Concorde

The largest square in Paris is a perfect example of how to design a public square. However, its history spans events from celebration to turmoil and revolution, and peace at the end. First built in 1772 (as Place Louis XV), its purpose was to celebrate the coming back of King Louis XV to good health after a long suffering. Little did he know that at the same square, his grand son King Louis XVI would be executed during the French Revolution. And the equestrian statue of Louis XV himself would be brought down.

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The Obelisk at the Place de la Concorde; Eiffel Tower in the backdrop
The big turmoil:

The square became a place for execution, and at one point of time, during the “Reign of Terror” in 1794, more than 1300 people were executed here in a month! At that point, it came to be known as “Place de Revolution”. However, after the revolution, as a reconciliation measure, they renamed it as “Place de la Concorde“.

King Luis Philippe installed the ancient (3300 year old) Luxor Obelisk (a gift from the Egyptians) and two fountains flanking the obelisk. One of the fountains is the Fountain of River Commerce, and the other is Fountain of the Seas. These three grand structures stand proudly to this date.

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One of the two fountains

At the time of my visit to the place, I was not fully aware of the design of the structures. But the Obelisk did look out of place, and very different to me. On a bit of enquiry, I got to know about its Egyptian routes. Isn’t it amazing that diplomacy can move huge ancient structures thousands of kilometers!

From the Concorde, I reached my next destination- Champs Elysees in no time.

{If you are interested in ancient wonders, click here to read more: Stonehenge ||| Hampi ||| Stepwells of India}

Champs Elysees

Just beside the Place de la Concorde lies the most beautiful avenue in the world- the Champs Elysees. Though first built in 1670, it took its current name in 1709. The magnificent avenue runs from the Place de la Concorde to the Arc de Triomphe. The world famous street boasts of fashion stores of world’s topmost brands, beautiful restaurants/ cafes, theatres, exhibition centers and grand buildings. Some the most popular buildings include the Grand Palais, the Petit Palais and the Discovery Palace.

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Champs Elysees Avenue

Of course, shopping was out of question for me. But no one would stop me from window-shopping! And that’s what I enjoyed. A leisurely walk up to the Arc de Triomphe observing the things people were engaged in, made for a lovely evening.

Arc de Triomphe, Paris

A line of historic monuments (Axe historique) from the Louvre culminates at the Place de Charles de Gaulle that houses the Arc de Triomphe. When Emperor Napoleon got victory in the Austeriltz War in 1806, he commissioned this grand arch to commemorate the occasion. But he couldn’t complete it before his death. Later, Louis Philippe completed the arch in 1836 and inaugurated it.

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Arc de Triomphe, Paris

The arch is a symbol of France’s nationhood, and inscribes the names of all the wars that France has won. It honours all the soldiers who have laid their lives in the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars. As it’s the convergence point of 12 avenues, there is a huge traffic all the time. So, I just observed the arch from a distance, sitting at one end of the Champs Elysees.

From there I took a metro to get back to my hostel. That was the end of day-1. I would have loved to go around Paris at night, but the previous night’s ordeal meant that I needed to catch up some sleep.

The Louvre, Paris

Day-2 began with a visit to the largest and the most famous museum in the world- the Louvre. Housed within the Louvre Palace built in the 12th & 13th centuries, it occupies nearly 73000 sq. mts. of exhibition space. And it exhibits up to 38,000 objects at any point of time (of the 6,16,000 objects it possesses)!

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Statue of Greek Dit Pupien at Louvre
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Painting of Bathsheba (mother of Solomon) at Louvre
The Mona Lisa factor:

Like most of the visitors, my interest was centered around the Mona Lisa, a masterpiece of the Renaissance period painter-sculptor Leonardo da Vinci from Florence. But when I reached the section that houses Mona Lisa, it was a bit of let-down! There was a huge crowd pushing each other to have a glimpse of the greatest art work in the history, and of course, take a picture. It was not too surprising though considering the kind of fame the painting has world over. Somehow, I managed to picture myself with Mona Lisa too!

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The crowd at Mona Lisa painting at the Louvre

I spent good part of the day witnessing a diverse array of art works, sculptures, and artefacts from ancient times to modern times, and from all over the world. The experience was an education in itself. But of course, it’s not possible to really see 38,000 objects in half a day! Taking pictures in the courtyards with the glass pyramid and the Louvre Palace as backdrop was fun.

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Posing in front of the glass pyramid in the Louvre courtyard

Notre-Dame de Paris

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Feeding the pigeons in front of Notre-Dame de Paris

The last stop of the trip for me was one of the finest medieval cathedrals in the world- the Notre-Dame de Paris, or “Our Lady of Paris”. The catholic cathedral is dedicated to virgin Marry. It’s the finest example of French Gothic architectural style. Construction of the cathedral began in 1163 under the archbishop Maurice de Sully. And it mostly completed in 1260. However, modifications and additions continued over the next 200 years!

In a major fire in April 2019, the cathedral got seriously damaged. You most probably have seen this on TV. Reconstruction work is underway, and is expected to complete by April 2024, before the Summer Olympics in Paris.

Couldn’t enter the cathedral:

I was there on a bright sunny afternoon. But the queue was so long that I didn’t have the patience to wait to get inside. So, I enjoyed its architectural beauty from outside, and spent a few hours in its campus. Honestly, I had underestimated the crowd-flow while planning. Actually, I didn’t know that at different points of time, it has been the most visited site in Paris!

Anyway, I fed the pigeons in front of the cathedral. Took good views of the marvelous architecture from across the river Seine (it’s on an island in the river). It looks amazing in those pictures with the Seine.

Though I had a few hours on my hand before I should have rushed to the airport, I decided to reach the airport early. I was tired after walking a lot inside the Louvre, and spending time in the sun at the Notre-Dame. So, that was the end of my wonderful two-day trip to Paris.

Things I missed out in Paris in two days

Two days were always going to be too few for a historic and amazing city like Paris. But I can’t help it, I had only two days! So, obviously, I had to miss out on many a wonderful places, and things to do. However, here are the 10 things that I definitely wanted to experience, but couldn’t:

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Cruise ships seen on the Seine river
  • Enjoy a cruise on river Seine observing Paris cityscape
  • Visit the Sacre Coeur and Quartier Montmartre 
  • Visit Palace of Versailles (the former royal residence)
  • Spend time at the Luxembourg Park (the most beautiful garden in Paris)
  • Watch the Moulin Rouge (a famous cabaret) 
  • Enjoy a leisurely day in Disney Land Paris
  • Visit Musee (museum) d’Orsay (for 19th and 20th century art works)
  •  Visit Palais Garnier (National Opera of Paris)
  •  Pay homage to France’s heroes at the Pantheon
  • Visit the Les Catacomb de Paris (an underground ossuary with over 6 million bones)

An insider's perspective

I have a good friend from Siena living in Paris for the last few years- Sara. She is a medical doctor by profession, but is a huge travel enthusiast. While writing this article, I asked her a few questions to know an insider’s perspective of the city of light. With her permission, here I publish her view points; might be helpful for your next visit.

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Sara posing at the Eiffel Tower
3 things I love about Paris: 
  • It’s a city you will never get bored. If you want to eat Indian food, or Peruvian, doesn’t matter! You get hundreds of restaurants.
  • Subways are super efficient
  • Strolling down is just magic
5 Favorite places:
  • Saint Michel Notre-Dame, along the Seine
  • The roof of Galerie Lafayette (a chic shopping mall)
  • Trocadero (where you can admire Eiffel Tower)
  • Jardin (garden) du Luxembourg 
  • Bibliotheque (library) Francois Mitterand
5 Favorite cafes:
  • La Cassette
  • Kanope
  • Maison Sauvage
  • The Hardware Societe
  • All the terraces near Saint Germain
  • Starbucks near Palais Royal
Things I don’t like about Paris:
  • People grumble a lot! (the more you complain, the better you are accepted)
  • If you are a vegan, you’ll have a hard time! 
  • The “grisaille” (grayness) is so usual that you get surprised by the sun, not by rain; and, weather changes very quickly!

Travel Tips: Paris in two days

When to to visit:
  • Paris is always a good idea. However, pleasant weather months are from April to October. Nov-March are too cold.
  • Largest number of visitors throng the city during June to August. So, in order to enjoy the city in pleasant weather sans the crowd, one should plan for April or September/ October. Besides, these months are budget-friendly as well.
Where to stay:

I represent the budget-conscious traveler; so, I don’t have much idea on luxury options. Paris has some of the best hostels in the world. Choose a hostel that is at a central location. I stayed at the St. Christopher’s Inn, one of the best in Paris. Here is a list of best hostels to choose from:

  • St. Christopher’s Inn (Gare du Nord)
  • St. Christopher’s Canal (Rue de Crimée)
  • Les Piaules (Belleville)
  • The Generator (near Le Canal St. Martin)
  • Jo&Joe Paris (Gnentilly)
  • The Loft Boutique hostel and hotel (Belleville)
  • Enjoy hostel (Rue des Plantes)
  • Le Montclair Montmartre (Montmartre)
  • 3 Ducks hostel (Etienne Pernet; 10 minutes walk from the Eiffel)
  • Woodstock (Montmartre)
How to move around:
  • Paris has a great subway (metro) system; check for combo-budget ticket packs
  • Try to walk around as much as possible. Most of the great places in Paris are close to each other
  • Taxis are costly; however, you may try Uber
 
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A subway station in Paris
Helpful tips to keep in mind:
  • Yes, of course, they don’t speak English. But people at the receptions in the hostels do understand English.
  • Avoid restaurants and cafes at touristy places; they will rip your pocket apart!
  • Don’t gamble anywhere (they can scam you big time!)
  • Make sure a travel adaptor is there in your luggage
  • Check out the Paris Pass; if it suits your budget, it will actually save you time and money.
  • Buy things on the street very carefully
  • Cheats can trick you while asking you to sign a petition, or wear a friendship-band!
  • A few customary French phrases: Hello: Bonjour; Thank you: Merci; Pardon: Sorry. Don’t forget to use them often.
  • Do book your entry tickets to monuments in advance online
  • Check out the skip-the-line options while booking entry to important monuments (to save time)

To Conclude...

Yes, Paris is a romantic city. It charms you for sure. But it’s far more than that. It’s a historic city, not all of them pleasant though. Knowing the history of the city beforehand makes the experience even better.

Even though I was looking forward to have a picture with the Eiffel Tower, I was equally excited about visiting the Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. The one thing I missed badly was the cultural experience, mainly because of paucity of time. But there is always a next time, and more!

I hope you liked my diary of two days in Paris. Do write to me about your experience, if you have already visited. Or, ask me a question if you are planning to visit.

14 Responses

    • Sara

      It’s always a pleasure to read your so detailed amazing travel tips and descriptions! And thank you for including me in this very good guide of the city of my heart, Paris! It was actually very hard to find the negative sides 😊

      • stampedmoments

        Glad that you liked it.
        Thanks to you to for contributing too.
        Paris is indeed a lovely city, and you are so lucky to be living there!
        See you there soon 🙂

  1. Saurabh Ranjan

    It’s very amazing my dear friend. During reading & watching your picture, I just feel like I also with you to travel in Paris .
    Thank you so much my dear friend to sharing such kind of information, Because I think it’s very helpful for me & the so many people who want to a trip in Paris. I say again thank you from the bottom of my heart ❤️ my dear friend 😊.

    • stampedmoments

      Yes, dear friend. We are trying to add a little value to others’ experience.
      Thanks for your kind words.

  2. SOUMEN CHATTERJEE

    Well, I must say it’s blissful to read the entire blog, feels as if I am also traveling. 1st interesting thing to know about why Paris is called the City of Lights is by illuminating Paris more by installing street lights, and lanterns all around the city in those days currently However, the notion got stronger in the later period- the ‘Age of Enlightenment (1715-1789). Due to Paris’s increasing depth of education, literature, art, and scientific advances, it came to be recognized as the ‘City of light’- light as a symbol of enlightenment. The train journey was quite interesting along with a sleepless night at the hotel due to an error while booking was quite an experience. The Glimpses of Paris was quite exciting starting with the famous Eiffel Tower the most happening tourist place in Paris along with some interesting facts about the Eiffel tower was just awesome. Tuileries Garden and one of the reasons why Paris is so charming is because of its parks and garden and Tuileries Garden is one such example. Next was Place de la Concorde which is also wonderful. Champs Elysees is a beautiful avenue to look for where you get the world-famous street boasts, beautiful restaurants, fashion stores, etc. The next famous attraction is Arc de Triomphe which is a famous monument, the arch is a symbol of France’s nationhood, and inscribes the name of all the wars that France has won. It honors all the soldiers who have laid their lives in the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic wars the same that we have In Delhi. Next was the largest and most famous museum in the world Louvre where we get to see the statue of Greek Dit Puplen and the painting of Bathsheba. but great to read about getting a glimpse of the famous painting of the Mona Lisa and you took a picture with the painting. Another important was Notre-Dame de Paris the famous cathedral.
    There were a lot of things that were missed out on almost 11 places and this 2-day trip is not enough. Got to know about 3 things you love about Paris, 5 favorite places, and 5 favorite Cafes along with 3 things you didn’t like. The travel trips are quite interesting to follow, overall it’s a fantastic read.

    • stampedmoments

      Thanks a lot Soumen again for reading the post in so much detail, and also summarizing!
      Those choices of favorite places, and cafes etc are for Sara; not mine though.
      Of course, in 2 days, I can’t have favorite cafes!

  3. Ramanjeet Gupta

    Reading your travel experience is inspiring to make a visit. The tips shared or I would say the checklist is useful. The photographs captured are indeed beautiful. Keep on inspiring to travel.

    • stampedmoments

      Hi Raman! Glad that you liked the post.
      Thanks for your feedback. Keep connected 🙂

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