I think hill stations in South India are the best places for a monsoon sojourn. Places like Kodaikanal, Ooty, Munnar, Thekkady, and Coorg are just perfect to enjoy the rains. Verdant landscape, beautiful lakes/ waterfalls and thin tourist crowd during monsoon make the hill stations absolutely enjoyable. Our south India trip in monsoon of 2023 was quite enthralling. We started in Trivandrum (Kerala), then switched states, went to Tamil Nadu to visit Madurai, Rameswaram and Kodaikanal. Again, changing states, we visited Thekkady in Kerala before proceeding to Alleppey and Cochin, and back to Delhi. In this article, I would like to share our experience, an experience of a lifetime in Thekkady- Periyar National Park. Many know Thekkady for the Periyar National Park, just a few kilometers from the small hill station. So, for convenience, I will use ‘Thekkady- Periyar’ together in this article.
Location of Thekkady- Periyar National Park:
Let me start with the location, because lots of people wonder whether Thekkady and Periyar are the same place, or different places. Though they are different places, they sit adjacent to each other, thus, the confusion. Thekkady serves as the base location for visiting Periyar National Park, much like Yuksom for Kanchenjunga N.P. Otherwise, Thekkady is a village, on the outskirts of Kumily, a small town in Kerala (Idukki district) on Tamil Nadu border.
{If Kerala is in your travel priority list, you may like to check out: South Kerala destinations ||| Alleppey Backwaters}
Thekkady, a beautiful hill station, is a paradise for nature and wildlife lovers. The Periyar National Park and the Periyar Lake are the main reasons why tourists throng Thekkady. However, rich cultural heritage of Kerala is in ample display here as well. {Check out more national parks: Kaziranga N.P. ||| Sundarbans N.P.}
I’m going to write this article in a diary style, explaining details of our trip.
Kodaikanal to Thekkady- Periyar
Thekkady is about 150 kms from Kodaikanal, a hill station in Tamil Nadu. After spending a few days in the charming lake town- Kodaikanal, we proceeded to Thekkady- Periyar. We hired a taxi from Kodaikanal, and started in the afternoon. When we started from Kodaikanal, it had already started drizzling.
We took a small stopover at the beautiful Silver Cascade waterfall by the roadside. Yes, as its name suggests, it looked quite silver! Isn’t this an amazing thing about road trips in the monsoon season? Be it the Himalayas, or Sahyadri or the Western Ghats, waterfalls come into life all over the place. From little springs to cascading falls, they are a treat to the eyes by the roadside. They add so much charm to the journey!
Rains and the drives:
Just a few kilometers therefrom, towards Thekkady- Periyar, it started raining cats and dogs! The downpour was so heavy that the driver could hardly make out the road. Still he kept driving slowly through the winding slopes of Palani hills in the Western Ghats. Though the drive was a bit risky and difficult for the driver, we enjoyed the rains thoroughly. For something, I always love the drives in rains.
Somewhere on the way, the rains subsided, and then we could view the mountains clearly. The view that remains etched in memory is that of Manjalar lake (a dam actually) in a valley below the roads. In the rain-soaked landscape, the lake looked so pristine that one cannot just keep driving without taking a stop!
On the way, one comes across another lake- Vaigai lake. Like the Manjalar lake, this one is also formed by the backwaters of a dam. Whether they are good for the environment or not, they definitely are things of beauty.
{If you love lakes, do check out: Loktak Lake ||| Nainital Lake}
Reaching Thekkady- Periyar:
It was around 5 PM, we reached Thekkady- Periyar (took us 4 hrs). Since we were unsure about where exactly to book our accommodation, we had not booked any. Reaching there, the driver helped us book a small, but cute homestay. It turned out to be a good choice. Would you believe, the forest was so close to its boundary wall that one could see wildlife from the balcony!
The owner (Sathish) of the homestay tried to show us bears and bisons at night by throwing long-focus torch light. But we were not too lucky that night. Nevertheless, listening to the music of rains at night was a lovely experience.
Sathish also drove an auto-rickshaw and provided tourism services. His help and care made our trip so much more enjoyable! Sometimes, it’s not the size of the house, but the size of the heart is what matters the most. Sathish is a gem of a person, and he made our day.
Cultural evening in Thekkady
After checking in, we wasted no time in moving out. We had planned to visit the Kadathanadan Cultural Center in Kumily. Contrary to our apprehension, getting tickets was not a problem; maybe because it was off-season. We bought tickets for Kalaripayattu and Kathakali dance performances. Each show was for an hour, one after the other.
These are two of Kerala’s most famous cultural experiences to have. Though the Kalaripayattu performers/ athletes were absolutely acrobatic, we loved the Kathakali performances more. Because, Kathakali is unique to Kerala, and highly improbable to witness the dance form anywhere else.
Kathakali Dance:
Katha (meaning story in Malayalam) and Kali (meaning performance), put together make ‘Kathakali‘. Thus, it’s a dance form that tells a story through stage performances. One of the oldest, and classical dance forms of India, it originated in the courts and theaters of medieval Kerala. However, it prospered and peaked during 16th and 17th centuries.
Male dancers with elaborate make-up and colourful paintings on their bodies tell stories from ancient texts through gestures. Their performances are accompanied by traditional musical instruments and vocal performances. Read more: Kathakali Dance.
We had never watched a Kathakali dance performance before this evening. The subtle moves of the dancers, body postures, facial expressions, and especially the eye movements were so amazing! Interestingly, the artist invited a girl from the audience, and taught her a few subtle moves. I must say that the show was thoroughly enjoyable, and among my best experiences in Thekkady- Periyar.
Kalaripayattu:
Though popular folklore takes it into the realm of ancient times, historical evidence suggests that Kalaripayattu, or simply Kalari originated in Kerala during the medieval times. It started as a physical technique of fighting the enemy in warfare. It was in common use during the long standing war between Chera and Chola kingdoms in 11th and 12th centuries. In those days, every village had its own Kalari center.
In course of time, its use declined due to modern war techniques of guns and cannons. However, it revived much later in the 20th century as a form of martial arts. Now with efforts from the government and local institutions, it has gained popularity as a cultural practice. Learn more: Kalaripayattu.
Immediately after the shows got over, Sathish picked us from the cultural center. Since it was Parina’s birthday, we wanted to have a special dinner. So, Sathish took us to one of the best restaurants in Thekkady: the Periyar Tiger Cafe Restaurant. We ordered some authentic Kerala dishes: Rice with King-fish curry, and Idiyappam with Kurma. With the sumptuous dinner, we rounded off a perfect day.
Periyar National Park and Tiger Reserve
Early next morning, Sathish took us to the local bus stand where we boarded a mini-bus to the Periyar National Park. Mini-buses kept running up and down to Periyar Lake from there. It was about a 12-km drive through thick forests and tiny hamlets to the entry point of Periyar Lake.
On reaching the entry point to the lake, we had to buy tickets to board a boat to ferry in the lake. Periyar Lake is formed at the confluence of Mullayar and Periyar rivers. Further downstream, there’s a dam (Mullaperiyar) that forms a reservoir. Its backwaters merge with Periyar Lake to create a huge body of water in the middle of Periyar National Park.
Periyar National Park:
Established in 1982, the park spreads across 305 sq. kms. over the Cardamom hills in the Western Ghats mountain ranges. Though it’s house to a large number of endangered species, Periyar National Park is famous for its tigers and elephants. In fact, it’s a Tiger Reserve of repute with 40 Bengal tigers roaming around. If you are interested, refer their official website: Periyar Tiger reserve.
However, it’s not very likely that one sights any major wildlife, like we found out for ourselves! After waiting for a while for our turn, we got on to a boat. They took us around the Periyar Lake for about an hour. The dead trunks of trees that once were green, still stood inside the lake waters as proof of another era. Such a fascinating sight!
Throughout the boat ride, except for a few Nilgiri langoors, deer and bisons, we spotted no major wildlife. But for us, it’s never only about sighting the animals. If they come along, we consider ourselves lucky, else we enjoy the views. But if you are a wildlife enthusiast, you may have to visit the park a few times, early morning or at sunset to spot some elephants coming to the lake to drink water.
After the boat ride in Periyar lake, we took another mini-bus to go back to Thekkady, where Sathish was waiting for us. As per plan, then we headed to explore a few more places in Thekkady- Pariyar region.
Places of interest in and around Thekkady
Thekkady Farm Spice Garden:
In the middle ages, Kerala used to be one of the hubs of spice trade in the world. European traders came looking for its rich spice farms. And the rest is history!
So, being in Kerala, and not visiting a spice farm is not a good idea. We visited Thekkady Farm Spice Garden, and spent about an hour there. It felt good to see the spices grow in their natural environment, and get a bit of knowledge about them as well. Among the interesting herbs and spices were Vanilla, Ashwagandha, Heliconia, Cocoa, Wild Ginger, Indigo, Shatavari, Black Pepper, and of course, Cardamom. Later we saw entire hill slopes covered in cardamom plantations. No wonder, the hills are called Cardamom Hills!
Good part about the spice farms in Thekkady- Periyar is that they offer guided tours. The entry fee here was Rs. 100 only. Because their business model is based on tourists shopping some herbs and spices at their shops at the farm. We did some shopping too, and later found out that the products were of real good quality.
There are a number of good spice farms in Thekkady- Periyar region. If you are looking for suggestions, these are the best ones: Abraham’s Spice Garden || Green Park Spices || Deepa World Spice and Ayurvedic Garden || Periyar Spice and Ayurvedic Garden. And the one we visited was also very good.
Elephant Junction:
In my view, the most majestic animal on show on the earth is the elephant. I am a big fan of its demeanor and calmness. If I have a chance of having a tete-a-tete with it some time, I would never back out. Yes, I am concerned about the issues relating to elephant tourism, especially ethical treatment of animals. So, I was a bit reluctant, but somehow, I couldn’t resist the temptation!
Elephant Junction, an elephant park spreads over 16 hectares of spice plantation across a hill slope in one corner of Thekkady- Periyar. They offer the tourists an opportunity to spend time with this gentle giant. There are various types of packages to choose from, such as an elephant-ride, giving them a bath, or feed them.
We took a short elephant ride across the hill slope. The best part was the winding path among the spice plantations, especially cardamom plants. Icing on the cake was that the mahout was a smart guy with good photography hand.
Pandikuzhi View Point (Anakkara):
Last but not the least, we wanted to visit a beautiful view point. About 15 kms from Thekkady on Kerala- Tamil Nadu border, this is a great vantage point for valley view. In fact, one has to cross Kerala border to the other side into Tamil Nadu to reach this view point.
Sathish left us at a small village, just about a kilometer before the view point. Following other visitors, we also walked on a narrow forest trail. In about 15 minutes, we reached the view point.
The only word to express that view was, Wow! Verdant landscape in various shades of green- lemon green, apple green, forest green, deep down the valley in front of us. Spectacular vistas, and a stunning panoramic view of the valley from that point. A must visit place in Thekkady- Periyar for landscape photographers.
We felt like sitting there forever just enjoying the view. But we had planned to leave for Kottayam the same evening. Another thing that we kept enjoying through out Thekkady- Periyar was the colourful monsoon flowers everywhere. From yellow to purple, from pink to orange, all colours, all shapes.
Some places that we missed out, but you should visit:
- Explore waterfalls near Pandikuzhi and Chellarkovil
- Vandiperiyar: Valley view, and a popular picnic spot
- Anakkara: Expansive plantations of tea, various kinds of spices, and rubber
- Murikkady: View points, and spice plantations
- Kumily: Tea plantations/ gardens
Thekkady- Periyar: Travel Tips
Best time to visit:
Winter months (December- January) are the best time to be in Thekkady- Periyar. However, monsoons would not be far behind. Only issue with monsoon is that it might rain too much, and keep you indoors! We were extremely lucky in this respect.
How to reach:
Distances from nearby cities: Kochi: 145 kms | Kottayam: 100 kms | Alleppey: 130 kms| Trivandrum: 190 kms| Madurai: 150 kms | Kodaikanal: 158 kms.
- There are bus services from Kottayam, Alleppey, Cochin, and Kodaikanal
- Nearest train station: Kottayam
- Nearest airport: Kochi (Madurai and Trivandrum also have airports).
Getting around:
Depending on the budget, taxis and auto-rickshaws are at one’s disposal. They are not too expensive. Since Thekkady- Periyar is a small area, buses don’t come into the equation.
Where to stay:
- One may choose to stay anywhere in Thekkady, Periyar or Kumily; they are all equally convenient
- Budget hotels suggestions: Dean Dale Cottages || White Fort || Green View || Periyar Meadows || Dolphin Residency
- Homestay suggestions: Jungle Palace || Periyar Heritage || Kairali Palace || Periyar Inn || Kerala House
Where to eat:
- Best restaurants/ cafe’s: Tusker cafe || Sora || Hill View cafe || Spice Garden || Ebony’s cafe || Ambadi || Periyar Tiger cafe
- Must try dishes: Apart from the regular south Indian dishes like Idli, Dosa, Vada, one should try some local specialties. Try: Idiyappam || Aviyal || Appam with vegetable stew || Kappa || Fish Curry.
Final Thoughts
When we travel, while enjoying the sights and monuments, we also try to learn a few things about the culture of the places we travel. One of the aspects of Kerala that has always impressed me is its communal harmony. People wear it on their sleeves!
Apart from Hinduism, the two main other religions of India are Islam and Christianity. While we often hear news of communal strife in many parts of India, it’s rare in Kerala. Maybe, one of the reasons is that these three religious groups constitute almost equal parts of the demography. So, they have learnt to live peacefully with each other. In fact, Onam, the major festival of Kerala, is celebrated by all the three religious groups. Have a look at the picture below, how a restaurant displays its respect for Hindu, Islam and Christian groups! It’s commendable, and a lot to learn from.
We spent only a day and a bit in Thekkady- Periyar, because we had other plans for the trip. But we think, it’s worth at least 3 days for a relaxing vacation. There are quite a few lovely view points and forest trails in and around Thekkady- Periyar. Sighting wildlife also takes time and patience. While its natural beauty is what invites one there, one must not undermine the cultural experience. I cannot forget that Kathakali evening at all. So, we will go back someday to explore the place a bit slowly.
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