Tirthan Valley in Himachal Pradesh is one of the most charming valleys in India. It’s a poetry in landscape, it’s utterly lovable. Spectacular mountain vistas, verdant forests, milky white rivers, wavy meadows and unspoiled villages. Everything about Tirthan Valley, at the heart of the Great Himalayan National Park is so surreal! The views are spectacular and sublime at the same time. With greenery all around and lovely rivers crisscrossing the valley, the mountains don’t feel overwhelming. Instead, they feel soothing, warm and friendly.
Just an overnight bus journey from Delhi can take one to the gorgeous valley of Tirthan named after the beautiful Tirthan river. Yet, not many, thankfully, reach there, which means it’s not too touristy. It’s a great place to unwind, and relax. It’s almost like a definition of an off-beat travel destination.
I have visited the valley a number of times, and absolutely loved it each time. Here’s my perspective on how to explore the Tirthan Valley in the Himalayas well.
{If you love Himalayas, here are similar reading suggestions: Yuksom (Sikkim) ||| Darjeeling (West Bengal)}
Mountain Muse
in hearts and souls of young and old,
for all the world to see.
The music of the mountains drifts in the country air,
and floats around each part of town,
and softly lingers there.
Such apt words for these beautiful mountains! Walking around the villages of Tirthan Valley, these words keep reverberating in my ears. In all these years of travelling across mountains, I have never come across a better place for the heart and soul. Yes, there are better views elsewhere, and more fun activities elsewhere, but when it comes to pure bliss, none comes close!
{If you love mountains, some more for you: Kashmir ||| Tawang Valley (Arunachal) ||| Leh- Ladakh}
Tirthan Valley: What makes it so special
Apart from its natural beauty, two things that I like the most about Tirthan Valley are its easy trekking options, and its lovely villages. Since long treks are physically challenging and time consuming, I love small treks, especially day-treks. And Tirthan Valley has quite a few day-trek options (check below). Unlike long treks, day treks are easy, relaxing, and can be family affairs.
Lovely villages in the valley perched over hill-slopes seem stuck in time. Old colourful houses in typical Himachali architectural style look enchanting. Wherever you go, its welcoming people charm you with their smiles. If you are there during festivals, you can take part in their rituals, something that I always love. In many ways, I feel at home in the valley.
Are you looking for a peaceful destination to rejuvenate your battered soul? Or a leisurely sojourn to sit back and enjoy beauty of nature? Look no further than Tirthan Valley in the Himalayas. Moreover, the best part is that it’s still not touristy.
Great Himalayan National Park (GHNP)
A geological process that started millions of years ago, and still continues, produced the most majestic mountain ranges in the world- the Himalayas. Spread over 5,95,000 sq. kms. across six countries, the huge landmass is not only a geological phenomena, but also presents spectacular vistas for the eye and the soul.
While the Himalayas are an incomprehensible landmass, at its heart lies the Great Himalayan National Park (GHNP). Spanning perennially snow-capped mountains to verdant mid-high landscapes, the national park is natural wonder. Looking at its geographical and biological importance, it has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. {To know more about the GHNP, check out: A guide to the Great Himalayan National Park}
The GHNP consists of four separate but contiguous valleys- Parvati Valley, Tirthan Valley, Sainj Valley, and Jiwa Nal Valley. Of the four valleys, Parvati Valley and Tirthan Valley are more popular among tourists now. Tirthan Valley is truly at the heart of the National Park. However, I’m not discussing its technical aspects here, rather its natural beauty from a traveller’s point of view.
{If you love visiting National Parks, do check out: Kaziranga N.P. (Assam) ||| Periyar N.P. (Kerala)}
My dates with Tirthan Valley
My first date with Tirthan Valley goes back to March 2021, when I fell in love with its beauty. And since then it has been an endearing love story. I have gone back to its laps time and again in different seasons to enjoy a new charm each time.
Spring, the valley at its beautiful best:
My first visit was in the spring season (March, 2021) when we stayed in a small homestay in Jibhi. I still clearly remember our visit to a small village called Chehni Kothi, famous for its 1500 year old tower. It was Holi festival time and witnessing their traditional way of celebrating Holi was a special experience. On the same trip, we trekked inside the Great Himalayan National Park and also hiked up to Chhoie waterfall.
Monsoon sojourn:
Second time, it was a monsoon sojourn (August, 2021) in the valley with Parina’s mom coming along. After overcoming a landslide on the way (near Mandi), we had a great time exploring a few more villages and visited Shangarh meadows in Sainj Valley. Plucking apples from numerous orchards and visiting Sharchi village were the most endearing memories of the trip. As luck would have it, we didn’t have to face any rains or landslides in the valley. The weather was cloudy, but sunny most part of the day.
Summer, fun in the sun:
Next time, it was a big family affair in the summer (May, 2023). My mom and brother’s & sister’s families joined us for an amazing time in the valley. Among many interesting things, we loved trekking up to Raghupur Fort and picnicing in the Shangarh meadows. However, it was the discovery of that small guesthouse by the Tirthan river was the highlight of the trip. As the guesthouse was almost on the river, Suhani and Somu had a lot of fun playing in its shallow waters.
In autumn, a little adventure and a little fun:
Last time, it was in the autumn season (October, 2024) with friends- Varun and Mamta. This time, the highlight was a day-trek to the Serolsar lake with Rahul’s family (our friends in the valley). Exploring a hidden waterfall and being treated to the most amazing traditional food were the highlights of the trip.
I can’t stop thinking of my next trip, should definitely be in the winter to witness the white valley.
7 Best places to visit in Tirthan Valley
It’s fascinating how towering mountains of the Himalayas don’t feel imposing or overwhelming! Rather they feel reassuring, affable and lovable. Maybe it’s because of its enchanting rivers, especially the Tirthan river. Originating from a glacial lake deep within the Great Himalayan National Park, the river flows through Tirthan Valley to join the Sainj river before falling into Beas river at Larji near Mandi. Very interestingly, and uniquely for Himachal, it’s the only river on which there is no dam project. This makes the valley retain its natural beauty. I hope they keep it this way only.
Thousands of streams that form the Tirthan river, waterfalls, numerous valleys within the valley, verdant forests, quintessential Himalayan villages are what make Tirthan Valley so charming. Though I love every little place in the valley, from a tourist’s point of view, a few of them are must-visits. If you are looking for such places of interest, let me list them for you.
Quintessential Himalayan Villages:
1. Nagini Village and Chhoie Waterfall:
On the way to Gushaini from Banjar, at about 7 kms, is this lovely Nagini village. It’s the base village for starting a small trek to Chhoie waterfall. It’s a 2-3 kms trek that takes half day to complete. Chhoie waterfall is quite high (~50 mts); in fact, the highest waterfall in the valley. The trek route goes through scattered houses along the mountain side. On the other side of the village flows the Tirthan river. The natural setting of the village couldn’t be any better.
2. Gushaini Village:
Gushaini is the gateway to the Great Himalayan National Park. A number of treks in the valley start from here. If you can’t trek deep inside the park, you can go on a 3 km hiking from Gushaini village to the entry gate of the park. With lush green forests and the Tirthan river flowing by, this route itself is so pretty! At a point on the trail, you will come across an old wooden bridge across the river. Spend some time there basking in the sun. For permission, check out the Sai Ropa office nearby. Apart from trekking, one can indulge in trout fishing, rappelling, camping, etc.
3. Sharchi Village:
On one monsoon afternoon, we visited this beautiful village nestled in one corner of the valley. I must say that this is one of the most scenic villages I have ever visited. From a vantage point just off the village, it looks stunningly beautiful. Since we were there in August, we could witness apple trees laden in green and red apples. Talking to the warm hospitable villagers and kids in the village made our visit memorable.
4. Bathad Village and Waterfall:
Without planning, one day, our friend from Tirthan Valley gave us a pleasant surprise. He took us to a quaint little village beyond Gushaini, called Bathad. Parking our vehicle there, he led us to a small hidden waterfall deep inside the forest. It took us just 15 minutes of hiking to reach this lovely waterfall.
As promised, Rahul had brought with him a fishing rod for a trout-fishing experience. Quite luckily, it didn’t take long to catch our first trout fish, such a lovely fish with red-golden patches on its skin! Trout fish is a common name for a variety of carnivorous fish that live in fresh cold waters of streams and lakes. In fact, trout fishing is actually a very popular activity among tourists in the Tirthan Valley.
A little away in the down streams, the waterfall meets Tirthan river where the rocky river bed makes an amazing valley view. It’s a perfect place for picnics, I thought to myself; will try this another day. But that day, the food was at Apna Kitchen, a home-run restaurant. It was easily the best authentic Himalayan food I have ever had. All made from fresh local ingredients and with minimal spices, simple yet delicious home made food that won our hearts.
5. Chehni Kothi and Shringa Rishi Temple:
Holi, the festival of colours was round the corner, and apple and cherry blossoms were all over the valley. That visit to Chehni Kothi during spring season is still fresh in my mind. Parking our taxi some way down the hill, we had to hike a bit to reach the village. The lovely tower that stands tall in the middle of the village, is the main attraction. It was built by the local King Rana Dhadhia some 1500 years ago!
Moreover, a walk around the village took us hundreds of years back in time. Meeting the villagers and playing Holi with them was also a memorable experience. So, if you are in the valley, this village should be on top of your list. Besides, also visit the Shringa Rishi temple in the vicinity. It’s an important Hindu temple, and situated on a picturesque location as well.
6. Jibhi Town and Waterfall:
Though Banjar is the main town in the valley, Jibhi, ~9 kms away, is at the center of all activity. It’s a cute little place gradually developing as a tourist destination. The main attraction is Jibhi waterfall, tucked in a lush green corner of the village at a walkable distance from the town. They have created a small pool in the downstream of the waterfall. So, if you love swimming, take your swim wear and enjoy your time in the cool waters.
Since Jibhi is developing as a tourist destination, quite a few good homestays /guesthouses and cafes have come up here. So, it’s a good place to have your base for your stay.
7. Jalori Pass:
At only 12 kms away from Jibhi, at an elevation of 10,236 feet (3120 mts), Jalori Pass is popular for snow activities in Tirthan Valley. Though the whole Tirthan Valley experiences snow fall in winters, it’s Jalori Pass that receives the most. In fact, we found undissolved snow up there when we visited in May!
However, it’s the summer summer-autumn season that is more enjoyable at Jalori Pass. Because two day-treks originate at this point- Serolsar Lake Trek, and Raghupur Fort Trek. Besides, there’s a small Mahakali temple at the pass to visit.
Major treks in Tirthan Valley
With all kinds of trekking options, Tirthan Valley is a paradise for trekkers. Whether you are a leisure trekker or a serious trekker, the valley offers multiple easy to moderate and difficult trekking options. Most of the long, arduous treks are within the core Great Himalayan National Park (GHNP) area. But outside of it, there are a few day-trek options for leisure trekkers like us. For one’s convenience, I’m listing a few below.
GHNP Trekking options:
The only easy trekking option in the core GHNP area is a half-day trek from Gushaini to the entry gate of the National Park. But if you are a serious trekker, choose your trekking options from the links below.
- GHNP official website: Treks in GHNP
- Another comprehensive reference: Summary of treks.
Chhoie Waterfall Trek:
Not far from Gushaini is the village Nagini on the bank of Tirthan River. From Nagini village, a trek of about 3 kms (one side) takes one to the beautiful Chhoie waterfall. Though the trek is easy, it’s mostly uphill. I loved the colourful houses, green farmlands, and small under-the-tree shrines enroute to the waterfall. At an under-the-tree shrines, it was interesting to see offerings of all kinds of discarded metal products!
It took us about 4 hours to complete the trek. But it’s a better idea to spend some time at the waterfall, or maybe arrange for a little picnic up there. So, plan for good part of a day for the trek; it’s really enjoyable.
Serolsar Lake Trek:
As mentioned earlier, this day-trek starts from the Jalori Pass. About 5 kms (one side) from Jalori Pass, Serolsar (or, Seryolsar/ Seruvalsar) Lake is a small lake with a small temple beside it and lots of interesting stories. Though the route from Jalori Pass to Serolsar Lake is mostly smooth, expect a little a up and down through out. The trek route is covered with a thick canopy of trees like pine, deodar, oak, chestnut, and fir. So, it feels nice and cool through the day. In order to plan your trek properly, you may please refer: Serolsar Lake Trek.
Though it took us about 8 hours to complete the trek, one can easily do this in 6 hours. But I would suggest one should start early in the morning, spend some time at the lake, and come back by evening.
{For more such trekking experiences, check out: Triund Trek (Himachal) ||| Dzukou Valley Trek (Nagaland)}
Raghupur Fort Trek:
Another wonderful day-trek from Jalori Pass is the Raghupur Fort trek, about 3 kms uphill. Unlike the Serolsar Lake trek, this one is mostly uphill, though the slope is not too steep. The trek route goes through thick forest cover with a small meadow on the way. At the end of the trek route, one is treated to the most gorgeous sight. It’s a huge meadow up there; the meadow seems like unending, as far as the eyes can see!
Hiking about another kilometer up from there, one reaches the ruins of Raghupur Fort at ~12,000 feet. It must be receiving a lot of snows in the winter, because I found unmelted snow still present there in May! Raghupur Fort is said to have been built by the King of Mandi in the 17th century, of course for defense reason. But today, the fort is only a mound of ruins, some stone walls and a temple. There’s no way of knowing how impressive it would have been in its prime days. However, the view from top of its dilapidated walls is absolutely spectacular. The views from there are definitely better than from Serolsar lake.
Though we could complete the trek in about 4 hours, it’s worth spending the whole day up there. Carry your food, some carpets and have fun in the sun.
Travel Tips: Tirthan Valley
Best time to visit:
- If you like pleasant weather, spring season starting in March, through the summers up to June, Tirthan Valley has a lovely weather.
- If you love snow-fall, the winter months of November to February are good for you. However, be mindful of the slippery roads with snow-fall.
- Monsoon months of July- September are not the best time as the roads leading to the Tirthan Valley face frequent landslides. During our August visit, we were stuck on the highway for a long time due to landslide. Besides, the roads are not good for driving during the rains. On the positive side, the valley is in its pristine beauty with lush green forests in the rainy season.
How to reach:
- Nearest airport is Bhuntar, 60 kms away; flights available from Delhi.
- But the best way, in my view, is to take a volvo bus from Delhi in the evening (approx. 470 kms; 13-14 hrs). Getting down at Aut for Tirthan Valley, take a local taxi/ bus to your chosen destination- Banjar, Jibhi, etc.
- Train: Nearest rail head is at Joginder Nagar, 143 kms away. So, I would not suggest taking a train.
Getting around:
Not much local travel option in the valley. Though local buses are available, they are few and far between. So, one needs to hire a taxi to explore the region, or ride your own bike. If you want to hire a taxi, you may contact Rahul (+91-98572-72100), our friend in Tirthan Valley.
Where to stay:
Tirthan Valley has good homestay options. No need to book in advance except for peak season (March to June). We love staying at a guesthouse called Kaliyuga by the Tirthan river near Nagini village. There is a Zostel in Laida village; one should book in advance for this one though. In recent times, numerous tree houses have come up in the valley, and are popular among tourists. Some of the popular guesthouses in the region are:
- Gushaini side: Zostel (Laida) ||| Raju Bharti’s guesthouse (Gushaini) ||| Tirthan View Homestay (Gushaini) ||| Sharda Resort (Gushaini) ||| Trishala (Gushaini) ||| Kaliyuga (Nagini) ||| Trout House (Nagini) ||| Living Good Himalayan Boutique Stay (Nagini) ||| The River Walk ||| The Whispering Woods ||| Riverfront Chalets ||| Anand Tirthan Camps ||| Khwaabgaah ||| Trout Valley
- Banjar- Jibhi side: Whoopers Boutique Resort ||| Rai Kuteer & Cottages ||| Bradhi- Echor Riverside Resort ||| Dolly Guesthouse (Jibhi)
- Tree Houses: Jungle Book Tree House (Tandi) ||| The Hidden Burrow by Whoopers (budget) ||| The WoodenBranch’s Jacuzzi ||| The Treetop Treehouse || Hunting Wood Tree Cottage.
Where to eat:
- Since Tirthan Valley isn’t very touristy, there aren’t many great restaurants/ cafes all around the place. However, there are a few nice ones in Jibhi.
- Restaurant/ cafe suggestions: In Ibhi: The Forest Bean café ||| The Pink Panther ||| Cafe Old School ||| Hope cafe ||| The Mystic Garden cafe ||| Riverberate Café ||| Cafe Jungle Valley. Other places: Great Himalayan Café (Gushaini) ||| Café Stories N’ More (Shangarh) ||| The Himalayan Trout House Kitchen (Sharchi) ||| Mazel Tov (Sharchi), Israeli food.
- Must try: Siddu || Trout fish || Pahadi Thali || Fresh seasonal fruit (apples, persimmons, apricots, etc). If you are there in the spring season, do look out for a refreshing Rhododendron juice.
Concluding Thoughts
From the first time I visited Tirthan Valley, till today, after numerous visits, my appetite for the beautiful valley has not diminished a bit. Tirthan river flowing through the Himalayas makes for stunning panoramic views, almost picture perfect. If you are an adventure seeker, it has the most amazing variety of treks and forest trails.
However, it’s the villages of Tirthan Valley that take my breath away, every time. The more I visit them, the more I love them. From aesthetics of the houses to the warmth of the people, these villages are the main reason why I love Tirthan Valley. If Tirthan Valley is the heart of the Great Himalayan National Park, these villages are the soul of the valley.
If you are visiting Tirthan Valley, keep some days for both adventure and the village experiences. To know more, do write to us.
Rahul
You have written and explained very well about Tirthan Valley and all the valleys adjoining it.It was nice to meet you guys, you guys are very nice.love you brother ji 🙏 namaste 🙏
stampedmoments
Hi Rahul!
Love you and your family, brother.
People like you are one of the reasons why we love Tirthan Valley so much!
Cheers!