At the heart of Cambodia, not far from Siem Reap, Tonle Sap Lake has always been a life support system for the Khmer people. Its contribution to Cambodia’s history and economy is immense. But it’s not the reason I’m writing this piece. In the vicinity of the great Angkor Wat, Tonle Sap Lake offers a refreshingly different option from the overwhelming grand monuments all around the region. Though our Angkor Wat Tour was among our most extraordinary trips ever, we do fondly remember a trip to the Tonle Sap Lake. Though a lot of travellers miss out on visiting this lake, I would highly recommend to keep half a day for this. For your convenience, here’s sharing the best way to explore the Tonle Sap Lake and the floating villages around.
{If you love exploring lakes, reading suggestions for you: Loktak Lake (Manipur) ||| Vembanad Lake- Alleppey}
If you have a two-three day plan for Siem Reap, at some point of time, you will feel exhausted seeing hundreds of humongous temple structures. So, visiting Tonle Sap Lake is a nice, calming experience. Besides, witnessing local life in the floating villages of Tonle Sap Lake is a wonderful experience too.
{Also read: Mirik Lake (W.B.) ||| Nal Sarovar Lake (Gujarat)}
Tonle Sap Lake: Its significance for the Khmer people
Spread over at least 2500 sq. kms, Tonle Sap Lake is the largest lake in south east Asia. Interestingly, during the wet season (June- October), the lake swells up to six times- 16,000 sq. kms! Actually, during the dry season, the Mekong river drains it into the south China Sea. But as the monsoon season sets in, Mekong river flows in the reverse direction, and swells up Tonle Sap Lake.
However, it’s not only about its enormity. Its biodiversity is so rich that UNESCO has designated it as a Biosphere Reserve. It feeds the forests and agricultural land all around it, and thus is the lifeline of millions of people depending on it for livelihoods. Among hundreds of animal/ bird different species, there are about 150 species of fish in the lake. It contributes 60% of Cambodia’s annual fresh water fish catch.
Apart from livelihoods, the lake was instrumental in the growth the Khmer empire in the middle ages. Between 9th and 15th century, the Khmer empire flourished in its vicinity. The Kings of the empire had built extensive water management system that was connected with the Tonle Sap Lake. Owing to this water management system, its inhabitants grew rich crops and became prosperous.
Even the lake played important role in building of the Angkor Wat and other monuments in the area. The water networks connected through the lake helped in transport of stones and other building material from far.
Our day trip to Tonle Sap Lake
Early November 2023, we reached Siem Reap on a 3 day-trip, especially to witness Angkor Wat. On the first day itself, we decided to go on a day trip to the Tonle Sap Lake with a tour of the floating villages. After taking a quick morning recce of Angkor Wat area as preparation for the next day, we asked our tuktuk driver to pick us from the homestay to visit the lake. We didn’t take any guided/ organized tour. Because we thought it would be cheaper, and also give us more freedom to explore the area our way.
Though there are many villages around Tonle Sap Lake, four of them are popular among tourists, especially the floating villages. After consulting Chheng (our homestay owner), we chose Kampong Phluk floating village for our tour, which is about 30 kms from Siem Reap.
On the way to Tonle Sap Lake:
It was around 2.30 PM, we started from Siem Reap. But half way towards Tonle Sap Lake, it started raining, and we had to park on the tuktuk by the roadside. Though it was a bit of a dampener, fortunately, it stopped raining in about 30 minutes, and we were on our way again. On the way, we came across a beautiful old temple- Roka Pagoda, near Prasat Bakong. A rain-soaked beautiful temple with other smaller structures in the campus looked serene.
On the way, we drove past a number of villages. It was nice to observe their typical houses which had raised platforms with living rooms only on the first floor. The ground beneath the house is generally used for livestock rearing, storage and parking purposes. The raised platforms are meant mainly for flood protection.
About 7 kms before the Tonle Sap Lake boat jetty, there was the tour booking center. We bought our tour tickets for $18 each, much less than what we would have paid for (~35$) if we did it through travel agents. In another 30 minutes, we reached the boat jetty around ~4.15 PM.
Once at the boat jetty, it didn’t take long for us to board one of the numerous waiting motor boats. After speed-riding for about a kilometer, the boat reached the Kampong Phluk floating village.
Kampong Phluk, the Floating Village
Though the floating villages have a long existence by the Tonle Sap Lake, tourism here is of recent origin. The four main villages popular among tourists are: Kampong Khleang, Kampong Phluk, Chong Kneas and Mechery. While Kampong Phleang is the largest among the four, Chong Kneas is the closest one to Siem Reap. Since Kampong Phleang is the furthest one, it still remains a little non-touristy and peaceful. On the other hand, Chong Kneas being the closest, seems overcrowded at times. So, in between the two, Kampong Phluk is perhaps a good bet. Mechery is more popular for its bird sanctuary and wildlife viewing.
We assessed Kampong Phluk as the best option for us. The village was spread across thick mangrove forests, much like in the Sundarbans in India. But Sundarbans don’t have floating villages. There were about 800 houses and 3000 inhabitants in the village. Standing inside the lake waters, the houses were actually built on bamboo/ wooded stilts, and not really floating. But they did give an impression of floating, and looked really fascinating. In fact, they much resembled the typical Cambodian houses that we saw on the ground.
Speed-riding through the village, and among houses lined up on both sides like on a village street was a unique experience. The villagers were seen busy in their daily routine (mostly fishing) nonchalantly. Of course, now a days, most of the villagers are engaged with tourism services, some way or the other.
Sunset at Tonle Sap Lake
After riding past a few kilometers in the boat, we came out of the village and headed deeper into the wide open lake. When we reached our destination in the middle of the lake, the sun was about to set in the horizon. It couldn’t have been a better time! The boatman slowed down to almost zero speed to enable us enjoy the moment. While the sun slowly kept its downward movement on, the clouds made a pattern just like the head of a giant dragon in the sky. There were only a few other boats moving around us. The atmosphere was serene, tranquil and charming. It was one of the most surreal sunset.
After a while, the boat anchored at a house in the middle of the lake, where most other boats anchored too. The house was actually a cafe, and made for tourists only. We made our way to the top of the house to witness the stunning sunset. At the rooftop, they had set up a cafe really nicely. We ordered some green tea for us.
However, the tea was not a priority. The sunset was so beautiful and the atmosphere was like a movie set! For as long as one could see, there was only water surrounded by mangrove forests on the shores. And in the middle, only this little house! What a scene!
The crocodile skeleton museum
After witnessing the gorgeous sunset, and enjoying the evening for nearly an hour there, it was time to come down. While coming out, we noticed the house had a little museum of the crocodile skeletons! plus, they had kept some baby crocodiles too! I guess, it’s allowed in Cambodia to keep wild animals in private enclosures. Or, maybe, the owners might have taken special permission for this. I did hold a baby crocodile for a while to feel that excitement. Even that little baby was quite strong for me!
The journey back:
We started back around 5.45 PM from the middle of the lake and reached Siem Reap by 7.45 PM. Because it was a tuktuk, it took so much time. Otherwise, by a taxi, it would take much less time though. We had dinner at an Indian restaurant (Royal Indian) in old Siem Reap. After dinner, we explored Pub Street and Riverside Night Market of Siem Reap before returning to our homestay.
Travel Tips: Tonle Sap Lake
Best time to visit:
April to September months being summer season, Cambodia becomes too hot and humid to enjoy. Besides, the lake swells too much and floods the nearby areas. So, the pleasant weather months of October to March are better months to visit. Within this period, November to February are the best months to visit Tonle Sap Lake.
How to reach:
Siem Reap International Airport is about 45 kms away from the city. If you are already in Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, you may take a bus or taxi.
Where to stay:
Since Siem Reap is the nearest town, one has to look for an accommodation there only. For convenience, I’m suggesting a few budget accommodations: Bunwin Siem Reap || Onederz hostel || People By the Community || Lub d Cambodia || Siem Reap Pub hostel || Mad Monkey || White Rabbit hostel || Bokre Angkor Hostel.
We stayed in a home-stay (Realkhom) in the outskirts of Siem Reap. Though it was a bit inconvenient to commute, it was nice to stay with a local family and learn about their culture. Besides, the host (Mr. Chheng Chhy) helped us a lot with planning and logistics.
How to get around:
For most travellers, tuktuks are the most convenient way of commuting in Siem Reap. One can take a tuktuk up to the Tonle Sap Lake as well. Sunly, our driver friend from Siem Reap is a nice person, and very professional. If you want, please contact him at: +855-718601067.
However, some travellers prefer bikes to visit the lake. For me, bikes are a little too inconvenient for the high temperatures there. Instead, one should take taxi. Otherwise, if you are booking through a travel agent/ online, they will take care of the transport by a taxi/ limousine.
What/ Where to eat:
Some good suggestions: Meas || Try Me || Wild || Haven || Sambo Khmer & Thai Restaurant || The Christa || Pinakpou || Bugs cafe || Mango Cuisine || Malis Siem Reap || Amara Dining.
We were happy to find some good Indian restaurants there as well. For your reference, here are a few good ones: Lotus Dosa Corner || Curry King || Natraj Indian Restaurant || Urban Tree Hut || Travancore || Vanakkam India || Curry Wala.
Concluding Thoughts
Looking back at our Siem Reap trip, I’m glad that we tucked in a visit to the Tonle Sap Lake that day. Combining a natural beauty with those magnificent historic monuments enriched that trip and memorable. Moreover, sitting in that slow moving tuktuk, the quintessential Cambodian moto-rickshaw, riding through the countryside gave us an opportunity to see Cambodia up close. The boat ride through the floating village was a unique experience. Indeed, there’s no other village like that.
Last but not the least, that absolutely surreal sunset. Sunsets are always beautiful, wherever, whenever. However, the setting makes it all the more special. I can never forget that stunning sunset over the Tonle Sap horizon. If I ever go back to the lake, I would like to spend some more time at the floating village, and see their lives up close. Let’s see! If you want some more information, do write to us.
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