Shimla (Or, Simla) is where the mountains whisper stories from the past and nature’s charm from the present. Because it’s a city amidst forests, and with a rich history. It offers much more than its natural beauty. From colonial architectural heritage to the unmatched vibes of a great hill station, Shimla is many things to many people. If one is travelling to Shimla for the first time, here’s my guide with favorite places to visit in Shimla, and the best things to do.
Perhaps, Shimla is the most popular hill station in India, though it has some close competitors. If Nainital and Kodaikanal have great lakes, Gangtok, and Darjeeling offer wonderful cultural experiences, what makes Shimla so special? I think, it’s the colonial heritage of Shimla that wins over others. Though most of the popular hill stations were developed by the British, Shimla was the original/ first one. The sheer number of beautiful buildings and a vibrant market from that era are a testimony to its original charm. Moreover, the quintessential hill-station vibe of Shimla is unmatched.
{For more destinations from Himachal, check out: Tirthan Valley ||| McLeod Ganj}
Shimla, the Queen of Hills
Humble beginnings:
If India can thank Britain for anything ever, it’s Shimla for sure. And of course, for all the other hill stations across India. Before 1806, Shimla was a place with little hamlets here and there spread over the mountains. A Nepalese King conquered it in 1806 and it remained part of the his kingdom till 1816 when the British took control defeating them in the Anglo- Nepalese War. Soon afterwards, Lt. Ross, a British officer built the first house- a wooden cottage here in 1819. But the house got destroyed in a fire sometime later. In its place, a Scottish officer- Charles Pratt Kennedy built a pucca house called the Kennedy House. (Now: part of the office of the Central Public Works Department near the Himachal Vidhan Sabha)
And the rest is history:
The British officers who subsequently visited the place, just loved its England-like environment. They liked it so much that they gave Shimla its crown as the “Queen of Hills”. Though there are other hill stations that claim the crown, Shimla is the original one.
So, it didn’t take long for them to declare it as the Summer Capital of the British Raj in 1864. Come summer every year, they would take all the pain to shift their capital from Kolkata to Shimla! Owing to its popularity among the officers, Shimla gradually developed as a resort town, what we now call ‘hill station’. The pace of development gained momentum with the opening of Kalka- Shimla railway line in 1903.
Apart from being a leisure town, Shimla was for a long time, a center of important political events. Post-independence, in 1974, Shimla became the capital city of Himachal Pradesh.
What makes Shimla so special:
Situated at a height of 7238 feet in the lower Himalayas, Shimla is a different shade of paradise in each season. Spread over seven hills in a crescent mountain range, Shimla wears a different outfit every few months. Spring-summer has a very different mood than the monsoons and the winters.
Adding to the natural beauty, thousands of colourful buildings crammed into each other, nestled over the mountain slopes, but rising through thick forests of pines, deodars, oaks and rhododendrons, make Shimla look magical. And when the clouds come up in the monsoon months, the town looks even more beautiful. And if you love snows in the mountains, come December, Shimla will not disappoint you either.
Whether you want to relax in its cool environment or engage in nature adventure, Shimla is just perfect for you. Though it’s a busy city, one can find one’s own solace in different corners of the city. Among all the hill stations of India, Shimla undoubtedly offers the best shopping and culinary experience. Though tourists often look for places to visit in Shimla, it’s more about the experiences it provides.
{For similar other destinations, read: Aizawl (Mizoram) ||| Tawang (Arunachal)}
My numerous trips to Shimla
I visited Shimla for the first time only on the sidelines of an official trip in 2015 with Bharat, a colleague- friend. We went on a day-trip to Naldehra and spent the evening at the Ridge enjoying a gorgeous sunset. Though a short stay, I loved this place so much that I knew I would keep coming back.
After three years, I went back to Shimla with family in November 2018. That was an interesting trip covering Kalka- Parwanoo- Kasauli- Chail- Shimla and back to Delhi.
In another three years, my third trip was in winters (January 2021) with Parina. It was on this trip, we explored Shimla and its surroundings quite well. My most memorable experience, that of riding the toy train came on this trip as well. Besides, we experienced a beautiful snowfall in Narkanda, near Shimla.
The next trip happened in the autumn season; a family trip in October 2022 was absolutely enjoyable. Though there were light rains, we could explore Shimla town, as well as some places nearby.
Last but not the least, it was July 2023, when I visited Shimla with Lal, a dear friend and his family. It was a road trip from Delhi, and was fraught with lots of risk of landslides. Just a few days ahead of our planned visit, there was news of large scale landslides on the way leading to Shimla. But somehow, we took calculated risk, and the rewards were great! The rains played hide and seek with us, but we managed to visit quite a few places in Shimla.
My favorite places and things to do:
Before I proceed to list the places to visit and things to do in Shimla in general, let me share with you my favorite ones. Looking back at the last one decade, I remember thee different things.
Of my numerous trips to Shimla, which stands out as the most memorable experience? I guess, it was that toy train ride from Shimla to Kalka. Running down slowly from Shimla at an elevation of 2206 meters (~7238 feet) to Kalka at 656 meters (~2152 ft), the journey encapsulated the lower Himalayan landscape beautifully.
The next one would be the strolls over the Ridge. Each time, perhaps every day I have spent in Shimla, I have spent the evening at the Ridge. I just love its openness, and the positive energy around.
Last, but not the least, experiencing fresh snow fall. Born and brought up in a coastal region, snow for me used to be only in the movies. So, that day when the heavens opened up their snow gates, my excitement was bound to soar.
Best Places to visit in Shimla
Every destination has a few places that make them stand out from others. In my view, the five places to visit in Shimla that define it, are the Ridge, Mall Road, Viceregal Lodge, Shimla Station and the Jakhu Hill. If you have not seen these five places in Shimla, you have not seen Shimla well.
1. The Ridge | Christ Church:
Right at the heart of Shimla, a half-kilometer long flat land- the Ridge is the center of all attractions. Every road in Shimla leads to the Ridge. From the Christ Church at one end to the Scandal Point at other, the plateau over the hill is always abuzz with visitors. Being a vehicle-free zone allowing only pedestrians, the Ridge is a nice place to hangout, walk around, or just sit peacefully observing fellow travellers.
Enter the Christ Church, and you reach straight in the nineteenth century. Built in 1857 in neo-Gothic style, the church serves as the most prominent landmark at the Ridge.
If you hike from the Mall Road from the Christ Church end, just next to the church, is an elevated platform- Hawa Ghar that gives a cool panoramic view of the Ridge. Looking down from the top of Hawa Ghar, you will notice statues of Mahatma Gandhi just below you. To the right, there are statues of Indira Gandhi and Atal Bihari Vajpayee. On the left side, there’s a statue of YS Parmar (first CM of Himachal). From the vantage point, one also gets a amazing view of the green valley around the Ridge.
On the far side of the Ridge, there is the Gaiety Theater and a Town Hall, just near the Scandal Point. Walking a few hundred meters further, one reaches the old Kali Bari Temple.
2. Mall Road Shimla:
Just below the Ridge, a one-kilometer street runs parallel with shops, cafes, restaurants and other commercial centers. If one looks at the map, the Mall Road runs from Milsington to the Vidhan Sabha Chowk. However, it’s the ~1 kilometer section just below the Ridge is where all the hustle and bustle of the Mall Road is.
Apart from the market place, the major landmarks on the Mall Road are the Scandal Point, the town Hall, and the Gaiety Theater. Among the most popular cafes and restaurants are the iconic Indian Coffee House, where Prime Ministers like Pt. Nehru and Narendra Modi have seeped their coffee.
3. Viceregal Lodge:
The Viceregal Lodge, an official bungalow of the British Raj that has seen many a historical event still stands proudly in a beautiful corner of Shimla. Built in 1888 during the then Viceroy of India Lord Dufferin, it served as the official residence of subsequent Viceroys. Its Jacobethan architecture (architect: Henry Irwin) is a treat to the eyes.
Since the British ruled from here during the summer season, the lodge was always at the center of political activities. Post independence, it served as a summer residence of the President of India, thus changing its name to the Rashtrapati Niwas. However, afterwards it was observed that the President hardly ever stayed there. So, the government allowed setting up of an academic institution there- Indian Institute of Advanced Study.
Its administration organizes 30-minute guided tours of the lodge several times through the day everyday except Mondays. One can buy a ticket at the property for Rs.100 (Indians) and Rs.500 (foreigners). If you are a history buff, you would love this tour.
Coincidentally, both the times I visited this place, it rained lightly. Though seeing the lodge under the clouds was a lovely experience, I didn’t get a clear picture of the lodge.
4. Shimla Toy Train Station/ Kalka- Shimla Railway:
Since more than 100 years, a small railway station has been steadfastly facilitating thousands of passengers to commute between Kalka and Shimla. Though the characteristics of the passengers have changed, from commuters to tourists, the station has not changed.
After establishing Shimla as the summer capital in 1864, the next task for the British was to make it easy to reach the hill top. Having already undertaken similar mountain railways in Darjeeling and Ooty, the British knew how to do it again. So, they started working on the project in 1898, and completed this narrow gauge line in 1903. With ease in transport, the face of Shimla changed forever.
In spite of easier transport methods now, the train still keeps running up and down. Considering its heritage value, it has been added to the UNESCO World Heritage Sites list as one of the Mountain Railways of India.
{Also read: Death Railway (Thailand)}
In January 2021, we took a ride in this heritage train, now called toy train, from Shimla to Kalka. The train running over 969 bridges and through 103 tunnels, gave us a thrilling five hour’s ride. In a matter of 96 kms, the train came down 5000 feet! But the real treat was the spectacular views of the lower Himalayas.
5. Jakhu Hill/ Temple:
If there was a place in Shimla that existed even before the British arrived there, it was Jakhu Temple over the Jakhu Hill. When the British were planning to develop Shimla, they appointed three brothers- Alexander Gerard (scientist and a surveyor), Patrick Gerard (meteorologist), and James Gilbert Gerard (Bengal Medical Service; explorer) to survey the area. The Gerard brothers wrote about Shimla in a diary: “a middling-sized village where a fakir is situated to give water to the travellers”. In fact, they were talking of the Jakhu Temple.
Today, the temple still stands at the same place, and a huge statue of Lord Hanuman has been built nearby. The 108-feet Hanuman statue overlooks the valley below like a guardian angel from the heaven. One can see the statue from all over Shimla.
The temple is a very modest building, and its simplicity is its charm, I think. After driving up to the steps of the temple, one can climb about 300 steps to reach the temple.
Offbeat places to visit in Shimla
Beyond the five best places to visit I briefed above, Shimla has so many other interesting places to explore! So, it took me five trips to cover them all! If you are on a short trip, do look to add a few of the ones below in your itinerary. I promise, they won’t disappoint you.
- Kali Bari Temple: Originally, this temple was close to the Jakhu temple. But during the British period, it got shifted to near the Mall Road, not far from the Scandal Point. Visit the temple as much for its religious and heritage value as for the panoramic views of the city.
- Annadale (or, Annandale) | Army Heritage Museum: Its name borrows from the lady love of Charles Pratt Kennedy- “Anna”. Known for its golf course and helipad, Annadale is a lush green, tranquil place for spending half a day. Plus, the Army Heritage Museum in its premises houses a good collection of military memorabilia. So, Annadale is definitely among the best places to visit in Shimla.
- Gaiety Theater: A center for cultural events, right at the intersection of the Mall Road and the Ridge. Besides, it’s one of the most photogenic buildings on the Ridge. So, don’t forget to check out the events when you are in Shimla.
Miscellaneous other places to visit in Shimla:
- Lakkar Bazaar: Mall Road is not the only market you should explore in Shimla; Lakkar Bazaar is another must visit. True to its name, it’s popular for its wooden (lakkar) handicrafts, home-decors, and souvenirs.
- Himachal State Museum: Housed in an old Victorian heritage building- “Inverarm”, Himachal State Museum has precious artefacts from around Himachal Pradesh.
- Glen: If you love forest walks, Glen is a great place, not far from Annadale.
- Summer Hill: A little away from the city center, on the way to Kalka, this place is a pure bliss with pine forests around.
- Chadwick Falls: Not far from Summer Hill, a hike up to the Chadwick falls will fill one with joy, though the waterfall itself is very small.
- Green Valley: On the way to Kufri, stop over at a place where everyone stops, it’s the green valley.
- Himalayan Bird Park: Not really a great bird park, but if you love birds, you may just have a look.
Places to visit outside of / nearby Shimla
Once you are done with the places to visit within the city limits of Shimla, and you have a few more days, there are quite a few places to explore within a two-hour drive.
#33, Haunted Tunnel (Barog):
A tunnel that has captured the imagination of tourists for long, the #33 tunnel near Barog station on the Kalka- Shimla railway line, is what legends are made of. Colonel Barog, who was in charge of the construction of the tunnel, ordered its digging from both ends. But they didn’t meet in the middle! The failure shocked him so much that he actually shot himself afterwards. People believe that the spirit of Barog still lingers around, and there are many ghostly stories of the tunnel.
Shimla- Mashobra- Naldehra- Tattapani Route (25 kms each way):
- Mashobra: It’s popular for its lush greenery, scenic views and fruit orchards. We loved spending 2-3 hours at Carignano Nature Park in the vicinity. On the way to Naldehra, there’s a cute little Shiv- Shakti temple for a stop over. Besides, Mashobra is also famous for the Presidential Retreat.
- Naldehra: Popular for its old golf course, scenic beauty and horse riding trail.
- Tattapani: If you love river rafting, this is the place near Shimla. Plus, there’s a hot water spring to visit.
Shimla- Kufri- Fagu- Narkanda- Hatu Peak Route (67 kms each way):
- Kufri: For a snow lover, this is the place to be at near Shimla (15 kms). In the winter season, tourists throng the place for skiing, snowboarding and other snow sports. In fact, tourists in the winter consider this among the best places to visit in Shimla.
- Fagu: Especially popular for its apple orchards during July- September months, Fagu receives a lot of snowfall in the winter as well.
- Narkanda: Another wonderful place for snow sports in the winters, and trekking in the summer season.
- Hatu Peak: Not far from Narkanda, Hatu Peak is popular for the Hatu Mata temple.
Chail:
On a different route from Shimla, at about 52 kms, Chail is a quaint little town with a character of its own. Chail is especially famous for the Chail Palace built in 1891. But in its own right, it’s a proper hill station to stay over for a few days. On our autumn trip in 2018, we drove up to the nearby (7 kms) Kali Tibba temple. Though the road was absolutely atrocious (might have improved in recent times), the view was completely worth the drive.
Best Things to do in Shimla
Of course, you should visit the places in Shimla and nearby, as mentioned above. However, here’s a list of must-do things for your convenience:
- Nothing defines Shimla’s quintessential charm more than a toy train ride. So, either to or from, take a ride in the Kalka- Shimla railway
- Spend an evening at the Ridge. Interestingly, the Ridge presents itself in your reflection, you see it in your personality
- If you love snowfall, head there in the winters. No wonders, skiing/ ice skating in Kufri is one of the most popular activity in Shimla
- Walk around the town witnessing the beautiful colonial architecture. According to official estimates, there are more than 300 colonial heritage buildings in Shimla
- If shopping is your thing, head to the Mall Road/ Lakkar Bazaar
- For a foodie, Shimla has scores of old and new restaurants to explore
- If you are there between late July and September, visit the apple orchards of Fagu and Kotkhai
- Go on a forest trail in Glen/ Summer Hill to spend some time in solitude with the nature
- One can go for a star-gazing trip in Mashobra.
Shimla: Travel Tips
Best time to visit:
Shimla is a place for all seasons. Its peak season is summer (Apr- June), especially because of school holidays. But this is also the time when Shimla becomes over-crowded, especially during weekends. Long queues and traffic jams can make the experience a bit let down.
So for me, monsoon (July- September) is the most charming time when clouds come hugging the mountains. However, landslides are common these days. So, be careful, if you are planning to visit in the monsoon. Further, when snows fall from the skies (December- March), they definitely make a lot of people just go crazy!
How to reach:
- Flight: To reach by flight, Chandigarh is the most convenient airport, 120 kms away. Though there’s a small airport- Jubbarhatti, 22 kms away, there are only limited flights.
- Train: The nearest railway station is Kalka, 96 kms away. As said before, it’s a UNESCO heritage site, and thus, it’s more than just a mode of commutation.
- Road: Shimla is well connected with Chandigarh and Delhi; lots of buses everyday. Or, one can drive from both Chandigarh and Delhi. Though the road condition is very good, it suffers from landslides during the rainy season.
Where to stay:
Some budget hotel/ hostels suggestions: The Hosteller ||| Treebo Maharaja ||| Shimla British Resort ||| Hotel Silverine ||| Hotel Chaman Palace ||| Hotel Shiwalik Regency ||| Broadway Grand ||| The Royal Vista.
How to get around:
One has to take a taxi to get around Shimla or to visit places outside of the city. Though there are local buses to visit places nearby Shimla, they are few and far between.
What/ Where to eat:
- Some local must-try dishes: Siddu || Chha Gosht || Chicken Anardana || Bal Mithai || Babru
- Some great restaurants/ cafes: Wake & Bake Cafe ||| Indian Coffee House ||| Hideout Cafe ||| Cafe Simla Times ||| Cafe Sol ||| Eighteen71- Cookhouse & Bar ||| Wood Street Cafe.
Concluding Thoughts
There are some places I love to visit again and again, not to see/ experience only, but to look for its soul. Over the years, having explored the nooks and corners of Shimla, I realize that there are still things that I don’t know about the city. I would love to go back and experience its culture in a more non-touristy way. Moreover, I would like to meet some people who know Shimla for a long time, know its history first hand, and understand its pulse. Maybe, later this year!
I hope you find my experience and this article useful. If you want to know more, don’t hesitate to reach out. And if you have visited Shimla already, do share your thoughts with us.
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