Goa is among the most visited places in India. Its gorgeous beaches, vibrant nightlife, endless options for recreation, and rich culture attract millions of tourists every year. However, on many of my trips to Goa, I had not really fallen in love with the place, though that changed recently. I visited Goa for the first time in 2010 with Parina and Lina (sister). And then it was for professional reasons, I had to visit Goa a number of times. On these visits, I mostly stayed in north Goa, and explored the places therein. I liked the overall package that Goa offered, but didn’t quite feel the urge to go back. I found it overcrowded and overrated. However, that changed last December (2021) when we started exploring south Goa. We fell in love with south Goa- especially its serene beaches. This is a typical North vs. South Goa dilemma.
Goa is so full of destinations and activities that travellers often wonder where to start and where to make their base. In order to solve this North vs. South Goa dilemma, in this article, I am making a comparison between the two, and suggesting on how to choose your destination.
{{Love beaches? Do check out: Beaches of Phuket ||| Beaches on Odisha coast}}
North vs. South Goa Dilemma
From a traveller’s point of view, one can divide Goa into three distinct regions- North Goa, Central/Old Goa and South Goa. However, Central/Old Goa is rather congruent to North Goa; so, it’s generally taken as part of the North.
On my earlier visits, sometimes by default, and sometimes due to lack of insight, I was limited to visiting north Goa beaches like Baga, Calangute and Vagatore. The only south Goa beach I had visited was Colva.
However, the last time, after spending a few days in north Goa, we ventured into south Goa (like Palolem, Agonda and Butterfly beaches). And we were so pleasantly surprised! Pristine beaches surrounded by wonderful landscapes and forests, relatively clean, not so much crowd, and great vibes. Agonda beach and Butterfly beach are so refreshingly different! These are among the best beaches in India, only comparable to those in the Andamans and Coastal Karnataka.
Then I thought to myself, why did I take so long to understand this! And, why are north Goa beaches more popular in general?
Convenience and fun: that’s the answer
North vs. South Goa is a big dilemma in travellers’ mind, especially when people travel in groups, because different individuals have different choices. Besides, first time travellers also have this dilemma, largely because of lack of appropriate information.
Though both north and south Goa offer a large array of destinations, convenience is a big factor in making north Goa more popular. North Goa beaches are closer to the airport, and also closer to the state capital and an important city in Goa- Panaji. Panaji has the best hotels, restaurants and fun avenues. Goa’s popular Mandovi river cruises start from Panaji too. North Goan beaches offer bustling market places with various options for party, shopping and culinary pleasure. Though South Goan beaches also have a lot of fun options, they are less in comparison to the North.
If pictures tell a story, have a look at the pictures below, and see the contrast between south and north Goa beaches!
Well, it’s the same difference in hill stations as well; for example, the difference between say Shimla and Kaza (Spiti valley) in Himachal Pradesh. Though Kaza is more peaceful and offer majestic views of the Himalayas, it’s relatively far off from the city and offers less options for recreation. Thus, Shimla attracts more tourists than Kaza. However, one should know what they are looking for while choosing a destination.
How to choose your destination in Goa
So, if you are planning for Goa, choose your destination wisely, and choose your base location accordingly.
- If you want more fun activities (shopping, party etc), choose north Goa. Baga, Calangute, Anjuna and Panjim are all great places to have fun. Choosing your base location near Baga/ Calangute will be great.
- Besides, if you are a lover of historic monuments, north Goa has plenty of options as well. For me the biggest attractions of north Goa are the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Old Goa Churches and Covenants built by the Portuguese in the 15th century. Plus, there are a number of old forts from the 15th and 16th centuries. Choosing Panjim as base location would be a great idea to explore these heritage sites.
- However, if you want more visual pleasure and peace of mind, choose south Goa. Palolem and Agonda are best beaches in south Goa to have a few days of peaceful sojourn. Being non-party seekers, it is but natural for us to like south Goa over north Goa.
- In case you are a first time traveller, and want to have a little of both the worlds, choose Colva as your base location. It’s centrally located, the first major beach in south Goa and located relatively close to the airport and the railway station. You can easily visit north Goa for a few days from here, and then also venture deep into south Goa. The only amazing waterfall in Goa- Dudhsagar is also close to Colva. On two of our personal trips, we chose Colva as base.
North vs. South Goa: spatial guide
To make things even clearer, I have marked the important places on an indicative map of Goa for your convenience; see below. As you can see in the map, Colva is almost equidistant from major beach destinations of both south and north Goa.
Now, in the second part of the article, let me throw light on some major attractions of north and south Goa separately for your planning. Please note that these are not details of places, rather glimpses of major attractions for decision making only. Later I will write separate posts on north and south Goa with details of places and activities.
North Goa Attractions
Best Beaches:
- Calangute beach and Baga beach: These are two adjacent beaches, and the most commercial ones. They are great for water sports and popular among tourists for night life.
- Candolim beach: Another beach popular for water sports and parties, not far from the Calangute beach.
- Anjuna beach: A rocky beach popular for watching sunset. At some point of time, it was the center of Bohemian hippie culture.
- Vagatore beach (near Chapora fort): A thick layer of vegetation near the beach adds immensely to its beauty.
- Arambol beach (favoured by foreigners): Situated in the far north of Goa, it has become popular among the foreigners.
- Morjim beach (Little Russia): Great music and dance vibes right on the beach.
Night life:
- Tito’s lane and Mambo’s bar (Baga- Calangute beach): It’s so popular that it’s synonymous with Goa’s nightlife!
- Curlies beach shack (close to Anjuna flea market): Great views and delicacies
- Casinos by the Mandovi river: Deltin Royale, Casino Carnival, Casino Palms, Casino Paradise, Majestic Pride, Deltin Jaqk
- Club Cubana (on the Arpora hill, between Anjuna and Baga): neon-lit night club, and a spacious outdoor with pool
- Loeki cafe (Arambol): true-blue Goan shack with relaxed ambience
Heritage Sites:
- Basilica of Bom Jesus: Built in 1605 in Baroque architectural style, this monument is among the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Goa. {{For more articles on similar UNESCO World Heritage Sites, please check out: Hampi |||| Khajuraho ||| Gagron Fort}}
- Se cathedral: Built in Portuguese Gothic architectural style, and opened in 1640, this white cathedral is still functional. Watching a wedding solemnized at the cathedral was a nice experience for us. This is situated just beside the Basilica of Bom Jesus, and is another UNESCO World Heritage Site.
- Church of St. Cajetan, also known as Church of Divine Providence; opened in 1661. Part of the UNESCO World Heritage
- Church of our lady of immaculate conception; built in 1541 in Baroque architectural style. The Church conducts a mass everyday.
- Fort Reis Magos, and church; erected in 1551: Interesting history, and great views of the Arabian sea and river Mandovi.
- Fort Chapora (famous for the Aamir Khan movie “Dil Chahta Hai“); built in 1617: Great view of the Arabian sea and landscape.
- Fort Aguada: Constructed in 1612; on the Sinquerim beach overlooking the Arabian sea.
Markets:
- Panjim (capital city): All kinds of markets, from modern malls to happening local markets.
- Anjuna flea market (Wednesday): chaotic, but delightful; a shopper’s paradise.
- Arpora market (Saturday evening to late night): one of Goa’s oldest hippie flea markets
- Mackie’s night bazaar on Baga-Arpora road (Saturday): live music with dance floor
Other interesting places:
- Take a walk around the Fontainhas: Panjim’s Latin quarter; colourful Portuguese buildings, lovely narrow lanes with shops
- Mandovi river cruise (starts from Panjim): choose a cruise of your choice online, and enjoy an evening cruise over the Mandovi river with great evening views, sunset, and live music with food
- Take a picture at Parra coconut grove road, made famous by instagrammers
- Mayem lake; a fresh water lake and picnic spot in lush green environment
- Divar island; for a peaceful day; made popular by the Shahrukh Khan movie “Dear Zindagi”
- Dolphin sighting boat-rides (starts from Coco beach): can actually sight dolphins, though for a few minutes; enjoyable boat-ride in the Arabian sea
South Goa Attractions
Best Beaches:
- Colva beach: Great base location for enjoying both north and south Goa. Close to Margao.
- Benaulim beach: A lovely fishermen’s hamlet by the beach; great for photography.
- Cola beach (beach and a lagoon, where Khol river meets the sea): small (only one shack) but clean beach with a backdrop of forested hills
- Agonda beach (a classy, unique beach): 3 km long white sandy beach; no sunbeds, no umbrellas on the beach! How awesome! And if you are lucky, may come across turtles on the beach!
- Butterfly beach: A little adventurous! A secluded beach; ride up to a point in the forest, and then trek 1-2 kms in the forest to reach there to view the most scenic beach in Goa.
- Palolem beach: South Goa’s most popular beach. It’s a crescent shaped beach, and is very photogenic. Another beach for turtles laying eggs.
Night life:
- Full Moon Parties on Colva beach (like on Anjuna and other north Goa beaches)
- Leopard Valley; south Goa’s biggest outdoor dance club (Agonda road, Palolem): groove in a forest under the night sky.
- Neptunes; a silent disco (near Palolem beach)
- Leda lounge and restaurant (Colva beach): try their blueberry cheese cake
- Riverside bar and restaurant (Agonda beach): eatery with a riverfront patio; popular for Thai food.
Heritage sites:
- Cabo de Rama fort; built in 1679 by king Shivaji, it’s one of the oldest forts in Goa. It gets its name from Lord Rama. Mostly in ruins now, but offers great views.
- Mormugao fort; built in 1624 by the Portuguese. Situated on the southern tip of the mouth of river Zuari.
- Shantadurga temple in Ponda (devoted to the goddess who mediates between lord Vishnu and lord Shiva).
Markets:
- Palolem beach market: the road from Palolem beach to the main road lined with shops is a great place for shopping souvenirs
- Colva beach market: Just off the Colva beach, at the main market, this is a lively market
- Margao municipal market: All kinds of shopping options- touristy things and non-touristy items as well
Other interesting places:
- Dudhsagar waterfall: Goa’s only great waterfall. Take the entry tickets online to save time. Start early in the morning, reach the entry gate and get your jeep from the Forest Department. The jeep drops you at one point in the jungle, and then you have to trek a kilometer to reach the waterfall. Most wonderful views of the waterfall especially when a train passes across the hills in front of the waterfall. There is a natural pool for swimming as well. It’s great to spend 3-4 hours at the waterfall.
- Sahakari spice garden: It’s great for a guided tour around the farm learning about spices. After the guided tour, they offer you traditional food at the farm. You can buy some organic fresh spices from the farm for your home.
North vs. South Goa: Concluding Remarks
Let me clarify one point though: both north and south Goa are very much enjoyable in their own ways. Both have lovely beaches and other attractions. It depends on your personality, interest or mood. If north Goa is a superb party destination, south Goa is serene, classy and subtle. In this article, I have just tried to solve the “North vs. South Goa” dilemma for choosy travellers with specific expectations, and not at all saying one is better than the other in general.
One of my travel friends from Canada once opined that Goa doesn’t have a great beach! Would you believe him? I rate him very highly as a great travel guide. He has travelled all over the world, and explored almost all kinds of destinations. He loves Indian monuments, and cultural heritage, but not the beaches. When he had this view, I wondered what he really meant! He reasoned that Goa beaches are too crowded, dirty and too wavy.
However, this was from a global tourist’s point of view; he has seen the best beaches in the world. Nonetheless, Goa offers the best beach-holidays to us Indians, along with the Andamans and Lakshadweep islands. And not to forget Gokarna and Udupi beaches in Karnataka.
Now that you have made up your mind about the destination, in the last part of the article, let me help with a bit of information about the best time to visit Goa.
Best time to visit Goa
From weather point of view:
Weather conditions don’t vary too much in Goa through out the year. Average maximum temperature hovers around the low-30s (C). Neither summers are too hot, nor winters are too cold. So, Goa is pleasant through out the year. However, November to February are the best months from weather point of view.
From cultural point of view:
Goa has a long history since the prehistoric times. Early humans had settled here; signs of their presence are still found from the rock-engraves in Goa. Goa was under various Indian dynasties: starting from 3rd century BC under the Mauryan empire to the early sixteenth century under Adil Shah of Bijapur.
The Portuguese who discovered sea route to India in 1498, annexed Goa in 1510 by defeating Adil Shah. It remained with them till 1961 when India annexed Goa from the Portuguese again. Owing to its long history of various rulers who brought in their own religions and traditions, Goa today is a multicultural society. Hindus (65%) and Christians (25%) are the major religious ethnic groups, but there are various people from other backgrounds as well.
On 3rd December every year, Goa celebrates its most important festival- the Feast of St. Francis Xavier (Goincho Saib or the Lord of Goa) to commemorate the death anniversary of the saint. Christmas and New Year are also celebrated in December/ January when all of Goa looks like a party destination.
Goa carnival is celebrated in February. So, December- February are best months to see Goa in its colourful and celebratory best. So, if you are in celebratory mood, head for Goa in the winters without worrying too much about North vs. South Goa!
Rajeeb kumar das
Its so beautifully place.
stampedmoments
Indeed, absolutely beautiful.
Thanks Rajeeb!
Santosh debats
Picture and information both are fantastic. 👍
stampedmoments
Thank you so much, Santosh for the encouragement.
Keep connected.
macwan smita
v.nice information.
stampedmoments
Thanks for the appreciation.
Please keep connected.
Geeta Deswal
you have captured the beauty of Goa very well . with these amazing photography skills you can also present in some art galleries. I loved the sustainable tourism tab the most. Keep sharing the pics. the information is really helpful and while reading i felt like reading and travelling that place same time.
stampedmoments
We’re so glad you read some of the articles, and liked them.
It’s a sincere effort to connect with fellow travellers like you, and learn from your experience.
We will be happy if we add a bit of value to your travel experience.
Suma
I was very much looking forward to this post since parina told me about your last visit to Goa. It is so descriptive and informative that one might really be able to make sure they don’t miss anything. Keep posting and helping fellow travellers plan their trips better
stampedmoments
Yes, Goa is beautiful. But it’s important to know your destination beforehand to make the experience all the more beautiful.
Thanks a lot, like always for giving your valuable time to read the post.
Anuradha Guru
That’s true! If one wants to enjoy the nightlife, North Goa is the better option and if one wants to enjoy the peace and quiet, South Goa is better 👍The beaches too are crowded in North Goa than South Goa…
stampedmoments
Absolutely well said. Of course, a traveller like you would know this.
Goa is really an amazing place; knowing the destination beforehand help matters well.
Thanks a lot, for reading and giving your feedback. Keep connected.
And if you subscribe, we can reach you directly 🙂
Soumen Chatterjee
Now this is what I called an perfect information to choose between north and south Goa , both has its own charm and attraction. I would love to visit both.
stampedmoments
Yes, for a first time traveller, Colva as the base is a great option.
Do let me know if you need help while planning your trip.
Thanks a lot.
Nidhi
Very informative and in-depth article.
For somebody like me who has never visited Goa for fun, it seems very helpful. Thanks!
stampedmoments
Glad that you found it useful. Thanks a lot, Nidhi.
Keep connected.
Carole
Very interesting. Until I read this guide, I did not realise that Goa had such distinct regions. I think I’d share your preference for South Goa as I prefer enjoying quiet calm scenery rather than partygoing! But it all sounds beautiful.
stampedmoments
Yeah, Goa is an interesting place; has more to offer than generally known to tourists.
It has a lot more to offer in cultural terms; will write something on that soon as well.
Thanks! Please keep connected.
Amrita Mukherjee
I came to your article while researching North and South Goa. How wonderfully you have put together this article. It’s so informative. Thank you.
stampedmoments
We are so glad that you found the article useful.
Thanks a lot for the appreciation.
Keep connected 🙂
Vikrant
Well depicted thanks
stampedmoments
Thank you so much, Vikrant.
Keep connected. Cheers!
paras chaturvedi
hi
i ma actually going to goa for the first time in march and got a lot of suggestions regarding the stay which were mostly about north goa, but we wanted to explore south goa as well and were very confused between north and south,but after reading your blog many things become clear ,now i only have a few concerns which i hope you can clear;
1. is south goa expensive then north goa?
2. is colva actually a central point because the tourist map which i reffered to showed colva is in proper south and not in mid point?
3. if we choose to stay in north then is it feasible to cover south goa via scooty, if yes then whats the travelling time between the two?
i hope you will be able to solve my query
stampedmoments
Hi Paras!
Glad that you liked the article, and it was useful for your purpose.
I’m going to write an email to you answering your queries.
Thanks a lot for engaging with us. Keep connected.
And have a great trip to Goa! Cheers!