Best Monasteries in Leh- Ladakh: How to explore them

posted in: India, North India | 0

In the cold, harsh deserts of Ladakh, Buddhism provides the much needed equanimity. Though human settlements in Leh- Ladakh are few and far between, they are invariably characterized by the presence of Buddhist symbols like chortens, mani walls and gompas (monasteries). It’s no secret that I am very fond of Buddhist philosophy, and am enamored by Buddhist monasteries. So, during our Leh- Ladakh trip this August, we tried to visit as many monasteries as possible. If you are like me, and wondering which monasteries to visit, here’s a list of best monasteries in Leh- Ladakh and tips on how to explore them well.

{Else, if you are more interested in exploring Leh- Ladakh as a whole, check out: our Leh- Ladakh Trip ||| Zanskar Camping}

The sight of majestic monasteries sitting over high mountains is etched in my memory forever. Ladakh is as much about its awe inspiring landscapes as about its unique culture. Among other things, Ladakhi culture is significantly influenced by Tibetan BuddhismHowever, Buddhism didn’t come to Ladakh from Tibet. It originated, and spread out of mainland India only.

{If you love cultural destinations, here are a few: Yuksom (Sikkim) ||| Amritsar- Golden Temple}

A brief history of Buddhism in Ladakh:

Around the 2nd century BC, Buddhism entered Ladakh region from Kashmir side. Though not many historical evidence remain, it’s generally believed that missionaries from Emperor Asoka’s court were the first ones to bring the religion to Ladakh. Afterwards, it flourished to some extent under the Kushans. 

basgo-monasteries-leh-ladakh
Basgo Monastery over a hilltop

However, the first spread of Buddhism from Kashmir side was not long lasting. The real growth of Buddhism in Ladakh happened when it came under the Tibetan empire in the 7th century. Buddhism itself got popular in Tibet during the 8th century, and naturally spread to Ladakh. Tibetan Buddhism got established permanently in Leh- Ladakh during this second spread. 

Tibetan kings and scholars played important role in popularizing Vajrayana and Mahayana forms of Buddhism. Since then, Tibetan Buddhism has sustained and flourished in the land of high passes.  

If you want to know more, here’s an insightful paper: “Spread of Buddhism in Ladakh“. Also, another book I bought in Leh- “Ladakh- Crossroads of High Asia” by Janet Rizvi (Scotland) is an excellent read.

buddha-pangong-lake
A Buddha Statue facing the beautiful Pangong Lake
India becoming headquarters of Tibetan Buddhism:

Post 1950s, Buddhism in Tibet suffered a huge blow due to Chinese invasion. Their supreme spiritual leader- HH the 14th Dalai Lama had to seek political refuge in India. He now runs the Tibetan government in exile from McLeod Ganj in Himachal Pradesh. A large number of Tibetan Buddhists have also fled their country and are living in McLeod Ganj while fighting for the cause of Tibetan liberation. One can experience a different perspective (from that of Leh- Ladakh) of Tibetan Buddhism in McLeod Ganj. 

{If you are visiting McLeod Ganj, Triund Trek is a lovely experience to have}

In the meantime, Tibetan Buddhism kept getting stronger in Leh- Ladakh with new monasteries coming up. So, while travelling across Leh- Ladakh, one would come across numerous monasteries over hilltops.

buddhist-lamas-2
With adorable Lamas | Stakna (L); Thiksey (R)
Monasteries in Leh- Ladakh:

Monasteries (gompas) are fascinating sights in Leh- Ladakh, especially around central Ladakh landscape. As one drives around Leh- Ladakh, it’s impossible not to notice them on hilltops, and very unlikely to be unimpressed.

Buddhist monasteries are living centers of worship for monks and nuns, who live there and practice rituals. Many of the monasteries in Leh- Ladakh and elsewhere also house schools for imparting Buddhist teachings.  The main assembly hall, or ‘Du-khang‘ (Du meaning assembly; khang meaning building) houses the main shrine. Gokhang is another important building that houses the protecting deities. Lhakhang is any other important shrine within the monastery complex.

Most monasteries in Leh- Ladakh look like forts with enormous walls with small windows. Inside, their walls are painted with stories from the Buddha’s life, Boddhisattvas, mandala, wheel of life, etc. Perhaps, this is the most beautiful part of monasteries. They keep sacred scriptures of Tangyur and Kangyur. The monks are called Lamas and the head Lama is called Rinpoche.

The best monastery we had visited before this trip was Tawang Monastery in Arunachal in October 2022. In fact, it’s the largest monastery in India. Besides, the monasteries we have visited in Sikkim and Himachal are also quite impressive. We must say that monasteries in Leh- Ladakh are among the best ones in India. 

wheel-of-life-buddhism
Painting of Wheel of Life | Thiksey Monastery
Major schools/ orders of Tibetan Buddhism:

Though there are tens of different schools of Buddhism across the world, four major schools dominate in Tibetan Buddhism. 

  • Nyingma-pa: First Tibetan school founded in 8th century by Padmashambhava (or, Guru Rinpoche); called the red hats.
  • Kagyu-pa: Founded in early 11th century by 5 Masters. Subsects: Dagpo, Drigungpa, Drukpa, Taglungpa, Karmapa. In Leh- Ladakh, Drukpa order had the strongest royal patronage, and has a large number of monasteries today. 
  • Sakaya-pa: Founded in 1073. Not so prominent in Leh- Ladakh.
  • Gelugpa: Founded in 1409 CE by Je Tsongkhapa. Revived the Kadampa school. Today, its most influential leader is the Dalai Lama. Today, they have the largest number of monasteries in Leh- Ladakh.
matho-monasteries-leh-ladakh
Matho Monastery, the only Sakyapa monastery in Leh- Ladakh

History of monasteries in Leh- Ladakh

Guru Padmasambhava, a scholar from Nalanda University (India) arrived in Tibet in 747 CE, and institutionalized Buddhism there. It was he who popularized the verse (mantra)- ‘Om mani padme hum‘, meaning ‘on the path of life with intension and wisdom’. In course of time, he became so popular that people started calling him the second Buddha. In 749, he established the first monastery in Tibet at Samya.

More than 200 years later, Rinchen Zangpo, a translator from Tibet proliferated the monastic form of Buddhism across Tibet and Leh- Ladakh. Quite incredibly, he built 108 temples and monasteries in Tibet, Leh- Ladakh and Spiti regions! According to legends, these 108 monasteries magically came up in one day!

walking-stick-rinchen-zangpo
The original walking stick of Rinchen Zangpo | Alchi (Gelugpa order)

The first three monasteries built by Rinchen Zangpo were: Tholing (Tibet), Nyarma (Leh- Ladakh) and Tabo in Spiti. Afterwards, he built/ rebuilt the other monasteries in Leh- Ladakh, including the important ones in Mangyu, Sumda and Wanla; also contributed to the ones in Lamayuru and Alchi. However, most of these monasteries in Leh- Ladakh either don’t exist today or are in absolute ruins. 

Later, some of the best monasteries in Leh- Ladakh were built during the emergence of Gelugpa order in 15th century. The patronage of Namgyal dynasty proliferated the establishment of Gelugpa monasteries subsequently all over Leh- Ladakh.

phyang-monastery
Phyang Monastery, under Drigungpa (Kagyupa) order

10 Best monasteries to visit in Leh- Ladakh

I wouldn’t go deeper into Buddhism, because this article is about the monasteries in Leh- Ladakh that we visited this August. Since there are tens of great monasteries in Leh- Ladakh, it’s pertinent for a visitor to choose the best ones.  

Since we knew that we wouldn’t be able to visit all the monasteries in Leh- Ladakh, we did a research. I read a few books, and went through tens of travel blogs on monasteries in Leh- Ladakh. We found six important monasteries invariably in all discussions/ articles. These are Lamayuru; Alchi; Likir; Diskit; Hemis and Thikse monasteries. Four more monasteries appealed to us either for their importance and locational beauty. These are: Spituk; Stakna; Shey and Chemrey monasteries. So, they form our list of 10 best monasteries in Leh- Ladakh.

Out of these ten best monasteries in Leh- Ladakh, we could visit eight of them during our stay in Leh. We missed out Lamayuru and Diskit monasteries because we couldn’t venture deeper into Ladakh due to AMS issues. But there’s always a next time! However, we visited a number of other interesting monasteries near Leh. For example, Tsemo; Phyang; Matho and Stok monasteries. Besides, we also saw Chemrey and Basgo monasteries from a distance.

{For more spiritual destinations, check out: Vaishno Devi Yatra ||| Varanasi}

stok-monasteries-leh-ladakh
Parina at Stok Monastery

1. Lamayuru Monastery

Sometime in the late 10th century, Naropa, an Indian scholar built this monastery by drying up a lake. As commonly accepted, this is the oldest among all monasteries in Leh- Ladakh, i.e. before Rinchen Zangpo. Later in early 11th century, Rinchen added five temples at the monastery, which are the oldest standing temples there. 

Lamayuru has a long history of changing schools. Initially, it was the hub of Bon culture, which predated Tibetan Buddhism in Leh- Ladakh. In course of time, the monastery came under the Kadampa first, and then under Drigungpa school (Kagyu order). Not far from it, there’s Wanla monastery, now a sub-monastery of Lamayuru.

lamayuru-monastery-2
Lamayuru Monastery perched over the mountains | P.C: Jean Francois Vibert

2. Alchi Monastery, Choskhar

Though its exact year of establishment is not clear, it’s one of the oldest monasteries in Leh- Ladakh and India. Though as per local beliefs, Rinchen Zangpo was the founder of Alchi Monastery, later evidences suggest differently. Another Tibetan noble Kal-dan Shes-rab is credited as its founder (in early 11th century). Non-the-less, Rinchen had contributed to the monastery significantly during his time in Ladakh. Rinchen also built two more monasteries in nearby villages- Mangyu and Sumda Chun. Together the three are known as the Alchi group of monasteries.

alchi-monasteries-leh-ladakh
Alchi Monastery Choskhar

In its initial days, Alchi monastery didn’t belong to any of the Tibetan schools. But later it came under Kadampa school. By the mid-15th century, the monastery was no longer an active center of worship. Sometime later, the monastery came under the Gelugpa school, and now the Likir monastery administers its affairs.

The monastery complex has three major shrines from the 11th-12th centuries: Dukhang, Sumtsek and Manjushree; plus, two other temples. The original statues and paintings inside the shrine are absolutely stunning, and invaluable heritage. The original mud-wood-and-stone structures and carvings of the shrines are still intact. Unfortunately, they don’t allow cameras inside the complex!

alchi-monastery-prayer-wheels
Heritage prayer wheels, Alchi Monastery
Alchi, our favorite monastery:

Of all the monasteries we visited in Leh- Ladakh, this one is closest to our heart. Its heritage, combined with its spectacular location on the banks of Indus river make it a must-visit place. Unlike other monasteries in Leh- Ladakh, this one is not over a hilltop, but in the plains. The river actually flows at least 50 meters below it.

Walking around Alchi village was also quite a lovely experience. There are a number of good cafes and guesthouses in the village; so, one can actually plan to stay in the village for a few days. Not a bad idea at all! 

alchi-village
Souvenir shops | Alchi Village

3. Likir Monastery

Built by Lama Duwang Chosje in the 11th century (~1067 CE), it’s among the oldest monasteries in Leh- Ladakh. Though initially it was under Kadampa sect (Red hats) of Tibetan Buddhism, it came under Gelugpa order (Yellow hats) in 15th century. However, the existing building belongs to 18th century when it was rebuilt after a fire destroyed the old building. Perched over a small hill with a large Maitreya Buddha statue (75 feet high) beside the temple, it looks spectacular from a distance. 

The monastery has two Dukhangs. The older Dukhang houses the statues of Amitabha, Maitreya, Shakyamuni Buddha and Je Tsongkhapa. The newer Dukhang houses the statue of Avalokiteswara. Apart from the statues, the monastery has the collection of some of the most important scriptures and manuscripts.

likir-monastery-2
Maitreya Buddha Statue (L) | Posing at the Likir Monastery (R)

We met a young Lama there who informed us that the monastery also manages the Alchi monastery. It’s the seat of Ngari Rinpoche, the current emanation of the brother of the Dalai Lama. There are about 120 Lamas and 30 students who reside at the monastery. They stay in villages around the monastery, and come up to the monastery during the winters.

4. Spituk Monastery

Just 7 kms away from Leh town, Spituk (or, Pethup) monastery looks majestic from the Leh- Srinagar highway. Though built in the 11th century by Lama Od-de, it was later named by Rinchen Zangpo as Spituk (meaning exemplary’). Like many other monasteries in Leh- Ladakh, this monastery first belonged to the Kadampas and then rebuilt in the 15th century, and came under the Gelugpas.

spituk-monasteries-leh-ladakh
Spituk Monastery | View from the top

We reached here in the evening just in time to enjoy a spectacular sunset in the horizon. The mountains looked mesmerizing, and the town below dazzled in the golden hour. The monastery has three levels. We climbed up the steps to the first level when we realized the Kali temple is another level up. very unusual for a Buddhist monastery, there is a large statue and several paintings of Goddess Kali (or, Tara?). Coming down, and taking a separate route up takes one to the main temple. 

Here we met a group of zealous travellers from Russia. They seemed to be keen followers of Buddhism, and pursued meditation quite seriously. The Annual Gustor festival here attracts a large number of devotees as well as tourists.

spituk-monasteries-leh-ladakh
Spituk Monastery | Lamas in thoughtful mood (L); A Russian lady in meditation (R)

5. Diskit Monastery

Perhaps the most recognizable of all the monasteries in Leh- Ladakh is Diskit Monastery in Nubra Valley. It’s especially because of the popularity of the 106 feet high Crowned Buddha (Cho Rinpoche) statue on Instagram. However, the statue is not that old, established only in 2006. The monastery is quite old though, founded in the 14th century by Changzem Tserab Zangpo of the Yellow Hat order (Gelugpas).

Though it was high on our list of things to do, we couldn’t reach Nubra this time. So, it’s for the next time!

diskit-maiterya-buddha-Geographical-Features-2
Maitreya Buddha Statue | Diskit Monastery | Picture Credit: Geographical Features

6. Hemis Monastery

Construction of Hemis monastery began in 1630, and started functioning in 1632. It was king Sengge Namgyal, who built some of the most stunning monuments/ buildings across Leh- Ladakh, was the man behind its conceptualization. However, it was Lama Stagtsang Raspa who was responsible for its construction. Hemis belongs to the Drukpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism. With royal patronage from the beginning, it’s the richest, and among the largest monasteries in Leh- Ladakh.

During our trip to Leh- Ladakh this time, this was the first monastery we visited. I was not actually expecting such a winding approach road with green fields on both sides. The courtyard was quite large with the two main temple-buildings on one side. Inside the temple, there are some original paintings from the 17th century, though not in good condition. 

hemis-monasteries-leh-ladakh
Hemis Monastery Complex

Among all the monasteries we visited in Leh- Ladakh, it was perhaps the only one with a very good souvenir shop in its campus. Parina bought some gifts for friends. We spent some good time in the campus.    

Hemis is especially famous for its two-day long Annual Hemis Festival (Tsechu) in June/July. Though festivals at other monasteries in Leh- Ladakh are also very interesting, this one is more popular because it’s held in summer.

7. Thikse Monastery

Thikse, the largest of all monasteries in Leh- Ladakh, is also the most impressive one. Layers and layers of red-white buildings across the hill make it look like the famous Potala Palace in Tibet. Of all the monasteries in Leh- Ladakh, I found the most number of tourists here. 

thiksey-monasteries-leh-ladakh
Thiksey Monastery perched over a hill

Paldan Zangpo founded the monastery when the first spread of Gelugpa order was happening in Ladakh in mid- 15th century. Most probably, there was a Kadampa establishment there before the Gelugpas took over. Along with Hemis, today it’s one of the most important monasteries in Leh- Ladakh. It administers the monasteries of Spituk, Likir and Diskit.

The main building stands 12 stories tall. However, even more impressive is the 39 feet statue of Maitreya Buddha inside one of the buildings, spanning two floors. The head portion of the Buddha is visible on the upper floor; looks fascinating! The older temple on the left side is however, not in such good condition. It houses some really old Buddhist artefacts and paintings. 

thiksey-monasteries-leh-ladakh
Main Building, Thiksey Monastery

Not far from the Thikse monastery lies a 10th century monastery- Nyarma monastery and university. Built by Rinchen Zangpo, it was the first monastery in Leh- Ladakh; but only a heap of ruins remain. From a historical/ heritage point of view, it’s a must visit though.

maitreya-buddha-thiksey-monasteries-leh-ladakh
Maitreya Buddha (L) | Posing at the main temple (R)

8. Stakna Monastery

Stakna, a small but cute monastery, on the right bank of Indus river is one of my favorite monasteries in Leh- Ladakh. Located on a small hill, it gives a stunning panoramic view of the Zanskar range with the Indus river flowing by. Unlike the other bigger monasteries, when we entered the main building, the courtyard looked stuffy. However, on climbing the stairs to the main assembly hall, I was thrilled. 

indus-stakna-monastery
View of Indus river from Stakna Monastery

There was an ongoing Buddhist prayer/ ritual session. I felt extremely lucky to be part of this UNESCO listed intangible cultural heritage- Buddhist sacred chanting of Ladakh. There are quite a few devotees, especially from abroad were witnessing the rituals. The rhythmic sound of chants and music made the environment electrifying. The statues and artefacts looked original.

stakna-monasteries-leh-ladakh (2)
Buddhist Sacred Chanting | Stakna
Buddhist sacred chanting of Ladakh

Lamas (Buddhist monks) chant sacred mantras everyday either to invoke blessing of the deities or appease the evil spirits at monasteries across Leh- Ladakh. While chanting, Lamas also play cymbals, trumpets, drums and bells. These mantras often contain the Buddha’s teachings like the ‘Three Refuges’ and ‘Five Precepts’. By learning them by heart, Buddhist monks and devotees keep reminding themselves of the Buddha’s teachings.

On special occasions and festivals, these chants are accompanied by dances in the courtyards of monasteries.  The practices may vary from one sect of Tibetan Buddhism to another. But the spirit remains the same.

Chosje Palkar, a Bhutanese scholar founded the Stakna monastery in the 16th century. Its name literally means ‘tiger’s nose’; I don’t know why! Does it really look like a tiger’s nose?

Among all the monasteries in Leh- Ladakh, this is the only one headed by a Bhutanese order- Je Khenpo. Others are headed by the Drukpa school in Hemis. 

9. Chemrey Monastery

While driving from Karu towards Pangong lake, we saw a lovely monastery over a hilltop. Even our driver from Leh couldn’t tell its name! So, we thought it was just another monastery among the tens of such monasteries in Leh- Ladakh. But later, with a bit of research, I realized that it was Chemrey monastery, which was on our list. Anyway, we didn’t have enough time or energy to visit it that day. Next time surely!

The importance of Chemrey monastery derives from the fact that its founder- Staktsang Raspa had founded it in the mid- 17th century in the memory of the great king- Sengge Namgyal. It belongs to the Drukpa school of Tibetan Buddhism. Two special things to look for at the monastery: an impressive statue of Guru Padmashambhava, and 29 volumes of scripture written in golden letters. Besides, one must also visit the museum that houses original paintings and other artefacts.

chemrey-monasteries-leh-ladakh
Chemrey Monastery as seen from the road

10. Shey Monastery

Last, but not the least, the Shey Monastery on Leh- Manali highway. The list of best monasteries in leh- Ladakh would not be complete without Shey monastery in it. Located within the precincts of Shey Palace, the monastery was built in 1655 CE. King Deldan Namgyal had commissioned this monastery in memory of his late father- Sengge Namgyal. So, it belonged to the Gelugpa order of Tibetan Buddhism. Like most monasteries across Leh- Ladakh, this one is also perched over a hillock just beside the highway.

Shey monastery is especially famous for an enormous (12 mts tall) statue of Shakyamuni Buddha encompassing 3 stories of the building. The face of the statue is visible only on the top floor, while the floor below houses a library. If one treks (4 kms) from Shey monastery to the Thikse monastery, one will come across a large number of ancient chortens spread across the valley.

shakyamuni-buddha-statue-shey-monastery
Shakyamuni Buddha Statue | Shey Monastery

Other honorable mentions

Though I listed the above 10 monasteries as the best in Leh- Ladakh, there are quite a few other important monasteries one may choose to visit. Some of them are here: 

  • Matho Monastery: Established in 16th century | Only monastery of Sakyapa order in Leh- Ladakh
  • Namgyal Tsemo Monastery: Established in 15th century | Famous for its three storied Buddha statue
  • Phyang Monastery: Established in 1515 | Belongs to Drigungpa order (red hats)
  • Basgo Monastery: Established in 17th century | Built for the Namgyal rulers
  • Rizong Monastery: Established in 19th century | Belongs to Gelugpa order | Paradise for meditation
  • Phugtal Monastery: Established in 15th century | Belongs to Gelugpa order.
tsemo-monasteries-leh-ladakh
Namgyal Tsemo Monastery and Castle

Other Buddhist insignia around Leh- Ladakh

Apart from the imposing structures of monasteries, one would come across scores of other Buddhist insignia in Leh- Ladakh. For example, the chortens, prayer wheels, manes, etc. At some places, the chortens and manes are so many across valleys that it’s quite a fascinating sight. Never seen such a thing anywhere else. Here are a few Buddhist insignias and their meanings:

Chorten:

Just second to monasteries, these chortens are the most important Buddhist insignia in Leh- Ladakh. These dome like structures are built in memory of monks and spiritual leaders. Different colours of chortens in villages around Leh- Ladakh represent different deities. Yellow: Manjushri (wisdom); White: Avalokiteshwara (compassion); Blue/ black/ grey: Vajrapani (power to fight the evil).

chortens-leh-ladakh
Fascinating sight of Chortens all over the valley | From Stok Palace to Stok Monastery
chortens-leh-ladakh
Chortens near Stok Palace
Mani- ringmo (prayer walls): 

Very unique of Leh- Ladakh, one finds large number of these prayer walls. Though they are more in number in the vicinity of monasteries, they are everywhere, in villages and roads. Devotees put together stones, one on another to form these walls. Buddhist mantra of “Om mani padme hum” is written on most of the stones. Devotees go round them clockwise, i.e. with their right hand towards them always. Even our driver always took care to drive past them in the same manner.

Prayer wheels:

One finds large number of prayer wheels at monasteries in Leh- Ladakh, mostly in metal, sometimes wooden, small and large. These wheels help devotees gain merit and wisdom, and purify negativity/ bad karma. Devotees turn them by hand from right to left, clockwise.

Colourful flags: 

Flags with mantras written on them, are believed to flow messages from the heaven when they flutter. Different colours represent: earth, fire, air, water, and space. The use of flags are from pre-Buddhist ‘Bon’ times. Quite a feast to the eyes, these prayer flags all over the landscape- trees, bridges, buildings, just about everywhere! 

prayer-flags-ladakh
Prayers flags on a bridge
Deities and Protectors in Buddhism:
  • Shakyamuni Buddha: The original Buddha, Siddhartha Gautama
  • Maitreya Buddha: The future Buddha, to appear as the 5th Buddha
  • Boddhisattva: Someone who refuses to attain nirvana (enlightenment) in order to help others on the path. (Avalokitesvara- compassion; Manjushri- wisdom; Tara- female Boddhisattva) 
  • Arhats: Someone who has attained very high level of spiritualism, but yet to attain nirvana
  • Protectors: Then there are fierce deities who protect Buddhism from the evil, such as the eight Dharmapalas and four Lokapalas.
Miscellaneous insignia:
  • The sacred texts of Tibetan Buddhism: Kangyur and Tangyur that are kept in all monasteries in Leh- Ladakh
  • Eight auspicious symbols: Umbrella; two golden fish; conch shell; eternal knot; vessel; wheel; victory banner and lotus flower.

How to explore the best monasteries in Leh- Ladakh

Geographically, in Ladakh, while the western region of Kargil is home to Muslims mainly, Buddhists live in the Leh region. So, most of the great monasteries are located in the Leh region.

Planning:

In order to explore the 10 best monasteries in Leh- Ladakh, one must plan at least 5 days. Two days for Leh- Nubra valley; two days for Leh- Srinagar route; one day for Leh- Manali route, , and . For convenience of planning, I have made an indicative route map; have a look below.

route-map-best-monasteries-leh-ladakh

In the above plan, of course, one can visit other places of interest (including other monasteries) on the different route.

  • Day-1: Leh- Shey (13 kms)- Thiksey (17 kms)- Stakna (24 kms)- Chemrey (47 kms)- Hemis (63 kms). Distances mentioned here are cumulative.
  • Day-2: Leh- Spituk (7 kms)- Likir (57 kms)- Alchi (78 kms). On the way: Hall of Fame; Magnetic Hill; Zanskar- Indus confluence; Gurudwara Patthar Sahib. After visiting Alchi monastery, stay there overnight. 
  • Day-3: Alchi- Lamayuru (57 kms)- Leh (173 kms); distances are cumulative.
  • Day-4: Leh- Diskit; Nubra Valley (115 kms) via Khardung La pass. After visiting Diskit monastery, head to Nubra Valley; local sightseeing; stay overnight there.
  • Day-5: Nubra Valley- Leh (160 kms).
Best time to visit the monasteries in Leh- Ladakh:

The next question is, when to plan. In my view, the best time to visit the monasteries are when there’s an ongoing festival. The monasteries would be in their colourful best, and full of vibrant energy. However, I haven’t visited any monastery during a festival yet. But it’s good if one can plan during those days. Please have a look at the list of festivals with their months of celebration.

Festival times:
Specific to monasteries:
  1. Lamayuru Monastery: Yuru Kabgyat (June)
  2. Alchi Monastery: No specific festival; but it celebrates the general ones (below)
  3. Likir Monastery: Dosmochey (February)
  4. Spituk Monastery: Spituk Gustor (January)
  5. Diskit Monastery: Gustor (October)
  6. Hemis Monastery: Tseschu (June/ July)
  7. Thikse Monastery: Gustor (October/ November)
  8. Stakna Monastery: No specific festival; but it celebrates the general ones (below)
  9. Chemrey Monastery: Wangchok (November)
  10. Shey Monastery: Rul-lo (March)

Festivals all over Ladakh:

  • Ladakhi Losar: December/ January | Tibetan New Year
  • Saka Dawa: May/ June | Birth, enlightenment and death (parinirvana) of Shakyamuni
  • Galdan Namchat: December | Birth, enlightenment and death of Je Tsonkhapa
  • Sindhu Darshan: June | Celebrates Indus river as an icon of unity and peace
For convenience of planning, you may check the dates here: Leh- Ladakh Festivals.
people-leh-ladakh-2
An elderly lady in her traditional attire (L) | A Lama checking his mobile phone (R)

Travel Tips

How to reach Leh:
  • By air: Direct flights from New Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, Chandigarh and Srinagar
  • By road: One may drive either from Srinagar, or Manali; the drive takes two days
  • By bus: Limited options. Government buses run from Manali and Srinagar when the road is open during the summer season.
Where to stay:
  • Budget Hotels suggestions: Lha-Zes ||| Shambhala ||| Sangaylay ||| Snow Lion ||| Reenam Shaolin ||| Kangsing ||| Ladakh Country Inn ||| Leh Stumpa.
  • Hostels/ Homestays: Ladakh View Homestay ||| Rainbow Hostelier ||| Ostal Residency ||| Raybo Hostel ||| Thangkop House ||| Heschuk Guesthouse ||| Julay Guesthouse ||| Zostel Leh ||| Woosah Hostel.
How to move around:
  • Local taxis, mostly SUVs, or vans to move around in Leh- Ladakh. ~Rs. 4000 for local Leh; and for day trips, it’s ~ Rs.8000- 10,000. 
  • They don’t allow taxis from outside of Leh- Ladakh to ply in there. One may reach there by a taxi, but has to hire one for visiting places. However, private cars are allowed.
Where to eat:

Some good places to eat: Asian Corner ||| Leh Cafe ||| Tibetan Kitchen ||| Naas Cafe ||| Brazil cafe ||| Himalayan Cafe ||| Wanderer’s Terrace ||| Bodhi Terrace ||| Karim’s ||| Neha Snacks.

Concluding Thoughts

Isn’t it ironical that Buddhism is all but gone in the land of its origin! There was a time when it was vibrant all over India. Emperor Ashoka sent out missionaries to spread the religion across the globe, and succeeded immensely. However, today Buddhism is limited to largely south east Asia, and China. 

Today, Buddhism in India is limited to Arunachal Pradesh, Sikkim, and Ladakh, thanks to Tibet. Tibetan Lamas brought Tibetan Buddhism to these states, and over the years, built a lot of monasteries. These monasteries have become heritage places now. Now the government is preserving the Buddhist monasteries and cultural heritage in Leh- Ladakh, and other states.

If you are a Buddhism enthusiast like me, these three states are great places to explore. However, one can travel all over India in search of Buddhist history. States like Bihar, Uttar Pradesh, Himachal Pradesh, Odisha, Maharashtra, and Madhya Pradesh have great historical places of importance for Buddhism.

Though I have visited most of the Buddhist places in India, still a few important places remain, like Kushinagar and Spiti Valley. I am planning to visit them and some places in Nepal next year. I couldn’t visit Diskit and Lamayuru this time. So, till next time!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.