Yes, ‘charming’ is the best adjective for this magnificent city in eastern India. I don’t think I can call any other big city in India as charming, except for the small hill-stations over the mountains. To a first-timer, the city may look overcrowded and chaotic, but it’s beautiful in every way possible. From ‘Kalikata’ to ‘Calcutta’ and eventually to ‘Kolkata’, the city might have changed its name several times over centuries, but Kolkata’s rich culture has more or less remained the same. This article- ‘Kolkata : the best of oriental charm’ is about my feelings and experiences of the eternal city with insights into the best of Kolkata to explore.
Kolkata, the ‘city of joy’
What makes people happy, really happy? If your answer is music, art, sports, food, festivals, or literature, you are perhaps talking about Kolkata. People love their books, football, theaters, and rasagollas more than anything else.
There is a slum in Kolkata (in Pilkhana- Howrah) which an outsider might find not even an hour worth spending, let alone living there, but its residents keep smiling as if there’s not a single worry in the world! And they call their slum ‘Anand Nagar’ or the ‘City of Joy’! This is where, in 1985, Dominique Lapierre, the French author set his novel- ‘City of Joy‘ (a fiction based on his experience of living in Kolkata). Later the book was made into a feature film by Ronald Joffe in 1992. This is how the city came to be known as the ‘city of joy’.
For more destinations from West Bengal, check out: Darjeeling | Sundarbans National Park
The chronology
Just in case, you are interested in history, here’s a little chronology of the city of joy.
Days of insignificance:
- Though the history of the area dates back to the Maurya period (4th-2nd BCE), little is in the records
- Before the British landed here in 1690, the area consisted of three villages- Kalikata (a fishers’ village), Sutanati (a weavers’ village) and Gobindapur (mixed population); it came under the Nawab of Bengal within Mughal jurisdiction.
- An agent of the East India Company– Job Charnok bought the area from the Nawab in 1698.
Becoming a center of eminence:
- The Company established Fort William (1712) there, which later (1772) came to be known as ‘Calcutta’ and became the Head Quarters of the Company’s operations in India.
- The way we now know the city is perhaps the result of Lord Wellesley’s (Governor general of Fort William) developmental works between 1798 and 1805
- It remained the capital of British Raj in India till 1911-12 when they shifted to New Delhi.
- From 1912- 1947, it became the capital of Bengal (east and west together). In the post-independence period, it became the capital city of West Bengal.
Kolkata's old world charm
Kolkata still remains an old world charm where the old is comfortably placed, and the new is leisurely progressing. It’s the only metropolis where a hand-pulled rickshaw is still in vogue, people still ride their bicycles nonchalantly, and yellow old taxis roam the streets peacefully. A taxi driver told us that his taxi was 25 years old! Which other city allows this to happen?
In my childhood, I knew the city by the name ‘Kalikata’ in Odiya and ‘Calcutta’ in English, as the Britishers had renamed it. It was only very recently, it got its current name- ‘Kolkata’. I think the name was changed to restore its original Bengali pronunciation. If you are a Bengali, please let me know the real reason for the change.
Kolkata, the culture capital of India
Talking of cultural heritage, I would rate Kolkata right up there. My favorite cities in India from a cultural stand point are Jaipur, Kochi (Kerala), Ahmedabad, Mumbai, Delhi, Bhubaneswar, Old Goa, Guwahati, Lucknow, Amritsar, and above all, Kolkata.
Literature and academics:
I haven’t seen a Bengali who doesn’t love books! A visit to the College Street in Kolkata will tell you how much Bengalis love their books! A Bengali friend of mine once told me that you will hardly find a Bengali who has not tried to write a poem in their lifetime!
Rabindranath Tagore, arguably the greatest poet from India, called Kolkata home. He is the only Nobel laureate from India for literature, and wrote India’s national anthem “Jana gana mana“. His contemporary, Bankim Chandra Chatterjee wrote India’s national song “Vande mataram“. India’s only Nobel laureate for Economics- Amartya Sen is from Kolkata.
Durga Puja and other festivals:
Without a doubt, Durga Puja (a Hindu festival of worshipping goddess Durga) is the most popular festival in Kolkata. You need to be there to witness what it means to the Bengalis. All of Kolkata comes to life as if they were waiting for the festival every day of the year!
Gorgeous puja pandals, age old rituals, people in colourful dresses, women in their traditional white-red sarees, music & dance events and special food make the 10 day long celebrations larger than life. The tradition of Durga Puja is so rich that it now enjoys the status of UNESCO World heritage site (Intangible Cultural Heritage).
Among the other important festivals of Kolkata are Saraswati puja, Kali puja, Holi, Diwali, Christmas/ New Year and Eid. This February, when I was in Kolkata, I was quite surprised to see the way people celebrate Saraswati puja.
Dance, music, theater and films:
Even though I’m not a Bengali, during my entire childhood, I would wake up to Rabindra sangeet on the radio. My father was a big time fan of the popular song genre. Rabindra Sadan remains the center of cultural activities in Kolkata.
Among the classical musicians, Pundit Ravi Shankar and Anand Shankar are household names. In the category of film songs, from Kishore Kumar to Arijit Singh, iconic singers from Kolkata have romanced India for long.
Kolkata has produced some of the best film makers- Bimal Roy, Hrishikesh Mukherjee, Shyam Benegal, Aparna Sen, Ritwik Ghatak, Mrinal Sen, Rituparno Ghosh, and the list goes on. Above all, the first Oscar winner from India, Satyajit Ray was from the city.
Sports:
While most of India is mad about one game- Cricket, Kolkata loves its football as well. Kolkata Derby- a match between arch rivals East Bengal and Mohun Bagan is nothing short of an extravaganza for the Kolkata people. However, Sourav Ganguly, the Cricketer still is the most famous sportsman to come out of the city. And the Eden Gardens was considered the mecca of Indian cricket for long.
Delicious Food:
Bengali food is distinct and has a rich array; Bengali sweets (rasagolla, sandesh, ras malai, etc) are perhaps the most popular sweets across India. Being an Odiya, we share the same cultural heritage, and food is the biggest part of that common thread. I just love Bengali food.
The quintessential Bengali food includes rice-machher jhol (fish preparations), prawn malai curry, rolls, phuchka (Bengali version of paani puris), beguni bhaja (brinjal fry), biryani, moori-ghonto, jhaal-moori and radha ballabhi (kachori type puri-sabzi). Moreover, food is not expensive; you can eat well even if you have only Rs. 20!
People:
Above all, it’s the people themselves- educated, well read, and cultured. It’s amazing that everyone in Kolkata has a little bit of art in them, painting, sketching, writing, singing or dancing, at least something.
Average people of Kolkata are happy, joyous, and moreover, money is not the biggest thing that appeals to them! The simplicity and generosity of people is lovable. Once I asked a man directions, and he walked with me all the way (almost a kilometer) to drop me there! No wonder Mother Teresa chose this city as her home and did much of her social/ community work.
Social life:
It’s quite common to find people engrossed in intellectual discussions around politics, sports, art & culture, theater & movies, books & authors. I particularly loved the typical Kolakata adda concept- informal groups discussing intelligent stuff (and not mundane) at tea stalls or street corners.
In the words of Sudipta, a dear friend from Kolkata: “People of Kolkata sustain on two things- adda and food. Even in all the hustle and bustle of the city, we have people of all ages sitting together and enjoying an adda. As we say, don’t worry Kolkata, amra tomar e Kolkata.”
In spite of a tumultuous history, all the different communities live in harmony with each other. People still live and value their small neighborhoods called para. Unlike other mega cities, people know each other well and stand by each other in their times of adversity.
My Kolkata experience over the years
I vividly remember my first visit to the city of joy as a young college graduate in 1996-97. It wasn’t quite a pleasant experience though. I alighted from the bus (from Cuttack) at Babughat bus stand in the wee hours of the morning, and took a taxi to a hotel near the park street, hardly 2 kms away. In the days without a google map, the taxi took me around more than 7-8 kms and charged a bomb. In the evening, when I was on a leisurely walk, in about 5-10 minutes, I came across the bus stand where I had alighted! That was a horrible feeling of being cheated!
I had an competitive exam to appear in, which I did. And then I was planning to stay a few more days to explore the city, but then next morning, I saw a small eruption on my chest area. On visiting a doctor, I got to know that it was the beginning of chicken pox on my body! Another horror. I had to rush back home the same evening.
Over the years, however, I have visited Kolkata over and over again. Each time, I have explored a bit more, and liked a bit more. However, only when I started visiting other cities across India, I started truly appreciating the essence of city of joy. I would love to share my list of best places in Kolkata and my favorite experiences of the city so that it’s a bit helpful for your planning.
Best places in Kolkata to explore
Though Kolkata is a huge metropolis, most of the best places of interest in Kolkata are spread around an area between the Howrah Bridge and Victoria Memorial Hall (in Hasting). So, it’s relatively convenient to explore Kolkata in 2-3 days. For convenience, let’s divide the best places in Kolkata into six sections- iconic landmarks, nature hotspots, cultural hotspots, religious sites, markets, and some other notables places.
Iconic landmarks of Kolkata
Victoria Memorial Hall
Built between 1906-1921 by Lord Curzon in honour of Queen Victoria, this is undoubtedly the most beautiful monument adorning Kolkata skyline. The white marble building built in Indo-Saracenic architectural style stands in all its glory to this date.
It remains crowded with tourists all the time; so, keep enough time on hand while visiting. Morning hours are better for photography (especially the front side). However, we got good pictures during the sunset from the backside of the monument. The large green space around the monument is also worth spending hours.
Howrah Bridge
In my childhood, there were two pictures hung in our living room; they were of two bridges! One, the Tower Bridge (London) and the other, Howrah Bridge. I don’t know who put them up there, my father or my grand father? In any case, it caught my imagination, and I used to think that I should see them for real. Now that I have seen them both, I can easily say that they were worth putting up there.
Some bridges are more than just bridges. They are masterpieces of human creativity, not just bland work of engineering. Furthermore, they become part of a city’s folklore and social life. Remember the Ashok Kumar- Madhubala starer 1958-movie ‘Howrah Bridge‘? The bridge is perhaps the most recognizable symbol of Kolkata, even more than the beautiful Victoria Memorial.
(I don’t have a better picture of the bridge than the one below; will update soon though!)
The iconic bridge over the Hooghly river first opened in 1943 as the third longest bridge (705 mt) in the world; now stands at 6th. Trivia: Its first name was New Hooghly Bridge; name changed to Rabindra Setu in 1965; but still people call it Howrah Bridge.
Park Street:
Kolkata’s numero uno high street since the British era, Park Street is the go-to destination for food and partying. Originally known as the Burial Ground Road (because of the cemeteries), later got its name from the deer park that used to be there in the late 18th century. Today people associate it with the famous hotel The Park that came up in 1967.
Eden Gardens
Cricket is almost a religion in India, and watching a cricket match at the Eden Gardens is like a pilgrimage for a cricket lover. Established in 1864, the Eden Gardens is India’s answer to the MCG in Australia and the Lords in England.
It held the first test match between India and England way back in 1934, and since then it has become Indian cricket’s most iconic venue. It used to be the largest stadium in India till recently when the largest stadium in the world came up in Ahmedabad.
Cultural Hotspots
Jorasanko Thakur Bari
Rabindranath Tagore (1861- 1941) was not only the greatest poet from modern India, but was also a philosopher, painter, composer, playwright and social reformer. In my college days, I was most influenced by his philosophies on universalism, shunning nationalism.
On many of my trips to Kolkata, I wanted to visit Tagore’s house- Jorasanko Thakur Bari (built 1758), but missed out each time. However, on my last trip, I had made it the most important agenda on my list. The visit felt like a pious act to me. Walking around the large house and seeing the pictures from his life was a surreal experience.
Kumartuli / Kumortuli
Perhaps the biggest attractions of Kolkata’s Durga Puja are the Durga idols adorning the hundreds of Puja pandals across the city. So, where are these idols made? Just on the eve of Durga Puja, all roads lead to this artisans’ (potters) colony- Kumartuli, originally Kumar tolly (kumar meaning potter; tolly meaning colony).
As I reached there on a Sunday afternoon, there was an uneasy silence in an otherwise crowded city. Didn’t know why. However, on peeking inside modest workshops of the artisans, I found many of them engaged in the job that they know the best- idol making/ sculpting. They transform the clay that they bring from the nearby Hooghly river into divinity by their sheer imagination and fine skills.
Nandan- Rabindra Sadan complex
Nandan (estd. 1985) and Rabindra Sadan (estd. 1961) have been Kolkata’s most happening theater, film and cultural centers, situated beside each other. When we visited the complex on the eve of Saraswati Puja, it was abuzz with the young and the old alike. It was such a pleasant experience to see families and youth throng the place, hang out, perform, and express themselves in the campus.
Religious/ Spiritual Sites
Kalighat Kali Temple
Being one of the 51 Shakti Peethas of India, this Kali temple is quite important among Hindus. Legend has it that Sati‘s right foot had fallen at the spot. Though temple has ancient origins (not known), the temple in its current form (estd. 1809) is credited (disputed) to Santosh Roy Chowdhury.
Dakshineswar Kali Temple
It’s difficult to say whether Dakshineswar Kali temple is famous for Ramakrishna Paramahansa or the other way round. Whatever it is, to be in Kolkata and not visiting the old temple is not a good idea. Built in 1855 by Rani Rashmoni in typical Bengali Navaratna architectural style, and situated on the bank of Hooghly river, it offers a visual interest as well.
When I reached there at 1 PM, it was closed; so, I had to be content with an outer view only. The opening hours are: 6.00- 12.30 hrs; and 15.00-20.30 hrs.
Belur Math
Closely associated with the Dakshineswar temple is Belur Math, just on the other side of Hooghly river. When Swami Vivekananada met Ramakrishna Paramahansa for the first time, he neither liked his ideas nor his demeanor. However, in course of time, he became so enamored by his personality that he became Ramakrishna’s biggest disciple!
Later in 1938, he established Belur Math as head quarters of Ramakrishna Mission (estd. 1897) to propagate Hindu philosophy. They focus more on spiritual aspects rather than rituals.
St. Paul’s Cathedral
Built in 1847 in Indo-Gothic architectural style, it’s one of the most beautiful churches in India. With nicely curated gardens, the campus looks lovely. Moreover, a number of attractions of Kolkata are at a walkable distance; Victoria Memorial, Rabindra Sadan, Nandan and Birla Planetarium.
Some other important sites of religious importance in Kolkata are: Nakhoda Masjid | Tipu Sultan Masjid |
Nature Hotspots
Prinsep Ghat:
Named after the memorial of Anglo-Indian scholar James Prinsep, today this Ghat is the most popular place in Kolkata to watch the sunset over Hooghly river with the Vidyasagar Setu in the backdrop. The 2-km long riverfront from Prinsep Ghat to Babughat is an amazing place to spend an evening: boating, river watching and gorging on street food.
On our last trip, we wanted to go on a boat ride during sunset, but it was too crowded! (because of Saraswati Puja). But we did thoroughly enjoy the sunset, and took some really good pictures. In fact, it’s among the best places in Kolkata for photography. We didn’t forget to have our favorite phuchkas (paani puri) either.
It’s definitely one of my favorite places in Kolkata.
For someone who loves green spaces, and parks, here is a list of a few popular spots in Kolkata. The Maidan | Hindustan Park | Eco Park | Botanical Garden | Elliot Park | Rabindra Sarobar | Alipore Zoological Garden | Millennium Park.
Markets/ Commercial Districts
Kolkata is a shopper’s paradise. It has everything that you want, and at a price that you would love. Some of the most popular (and my favorite) markets to visit are:
College Street: For books. India’s largest book market, and world’s second largest second-hand book market. Surely a great place for book lovers. And when you drop after shopping, look for the famous Indian Coffee House to observe the quintessential Bengali Adda (chatting groups) in action.
Mullick Ghat Flower Market: Asia’s largest flower market. A very interesting place for treating your eyes and nose. Must visit early in the morning.
New Market: Not that new; in fact, it’s in operation from the British period! A big retail market for your everyday needs- from needles to clothes.
Some other interesting market places: Bara bazaar (mainly wholesale market) | Gariahaat market | Old China Town (Tiretti Bazaar) | Hatibagan market | South City Mall | Quest Mall | City Center Mall.
Other notable places
Writers’ Building: A major landmark in Kolkata, built in 1780 for the clerks (writers) of the British government, today serves as the secretariate for the government of West Bengal.
South Park Cemetery: A Christian burial ground established in 1767.
Marble Palace Mansion: A private palace built in 1835 by Raja Rajendra Mullick | Still remains a private residency | One needs permission to enter, 24 hours in advance from the Tourism Information Bureau | Photography prohibited.
Mother House: Missionaries of Charity, established by St. Mother Teresa.
Shobhabazara Rajbari: The former residency of the royalty of Shobhabazar.
Birla Planetarium: Oldest and largest planetarium in Asia, and the second largest in the world!
Fort William: The fort built in 1696 by the British East India Company. Under the control of Indian Army now. Public access is restricted. But if there is a way, I would love to see it for once.
Indian Museum: It’s the largest museum in India, and Asia | The oldest museum in India, and 9th oldest in the world.
Science City: The largest Science Center in Asia.
Kolkata : Travel Tips
When to visit:
- For pleasant weather: November to February (so called winter in Kolkata!)
- For festivities: October (Durga Puja); but it will be too crowded to enjoy other places/ things
How to reach:
Being a metropolis, I needn’t write anything here.
Where to stay:
- Budget hotel suggestions: Hotel Radiant | The Lake hotel | Hotel Transit Express | Roland Hotel | Itsy by Treebo | Fab Hotel Eros 211 | Glassotel
- Hostels: City Central | Bombay Backpackers | Moustache Offbeat Kolkata | Bubble Beds
How to move around:
- Local buses are frequent, and cheap; but as a newcomer, one would struggle to get the routes right!
- Auto-rickshaws are not that common; so, yellow taxis are the best way to commute small distances
- For some routes, Kolkata metro is a good option
- Trams are too slow, and infrequent
- Hand-pulled rickshaws are good within narrow lanes, if you find it difficult to walk.
Where/ what to eat:
- Traditional Bengali cuisine: Oh! Calcutta | 6 Ballygunje Place | Koshe Kosha
- Mughlai/ Non-veg: Arsalan | Zeeshan | Aminia | Mocambo | Peter Cat
- Bakery/ Confectionary/ Cafe: Flurys | Mitra | Indian Caffee House | Nahoum and sons |
- Street food: Decker’s lane | Kusum Rolls | Nizam’s (Katho roll) | Russell Street Puchkawala
- Bengali sweets: Vien | Bhim Chandra Nag | Shree Hari Mistanna Bhandar | Ganguram Sweets | Balram Mullick and Radharaman Mullick
- For more, here’s nice collection: 31 Kolkata Restaurants
Quintessential experiences not to miss
- Explore black town (Howrah bridge- Bara Bazaar area)- grey town (Bowbazar- Bara Bazaar area) – white town (area around Dalhousie square) to understand the historical setting of the city
- Boat ride in the Hooghly during sunset at Prinsep Ghat
- Visit the Mullick Ghat flower market
- Interacting with the artists at Kumartuli
- Late evening stroll/ dining at Park Street
- Buy a book at College Street
- Have high tea at Indian Coffee House and observe the Bengali adda
- Enjoy a leisurely (hand-pulled) rickshaw ride
- Take a ride in the iconic Kolkata tram.
Concluding Note
Kolkata may not be a seat of power like Delhi, or an economic power house like Mumbai, or modern like Bengaluru, but it’s in a league of its own. No other city can charm you like Kolkata does. If you have not been to Kolkata yet, I would strongly recommend you to try spending at least 4-5 days in the city of joy.
Kolkata will amaze you how people can lead a laid back lifestyle in a busy city! Nothing epitomizes Kolkata than the song by Anupam Roy- “shob pele noshto jeeban“, meaning life is a waste if you get everything!
Please share your views and experience of Kolkata, if you have already been there. If you are not already there, plan soon. Let me know if I can help.
Soumen Chatterjee
Well I would say it’s really fascinating to see well describtive details of Kolkata ” The City of Joy” where people are so friendly and cordial. You would enjoy more when u visit during the Durga Puja. Kolkata is really famous for Victoria Memorial, Birla Planatorium, Kolkata museum or the Famous Howrah Bridge. If u really want to enjoy the evening just go to Princip Ghat where you can go for an evening boat ride or a leisurely stroll in the gardens on the banks of River Hooghly.
The famous Jorasako Thakurbadi the birth place of Rabindranath Tagore . The two famous temples at Dakshineswar near the bank of river Ganga and Kalighat mandir is delightful to watch. One must visit Park Street during the Christmas and New Year , the place is beautifully decorated. The St Paul’s cathedral architecture is really awsome .
If you are a foody you are at the right place I hope you have tried authentic bengali Quisine at Bhuter Raja dilo bor and Kolkata biriyani at Arsenal . The famous coffee house at College streat is a great place to hangout. The market places are really awsome bara bazar is the biggest market in eastern India where almost all traders from all parts of the state comes to bara bazar for business.
How can one forget Nandan where every year international film festival is being organised and the famous Eden Garden.
Overall it’s really fascinating and awsome that you have covered.
stampedmoments
Yes, Kolkata is one of my favorite cities, mainly because of cultural reasons.
I haven’t visited Kolkata during Durga Puja though; maybe later this year!
Thanks a lot, Soumen.
Gaurav Majumdar
Suvendu you poured your heart to describe city of joy though I don’t belong to Calcutta but it seems that so much connection I have there. It’s wonderful to read your thoughts your feelings towards the city. Definitely so much to enjoy so much to learn from this place.
stampedmoments
Heyyy Gaurav! Thanks for writing a lovely feedback.
I somehow thought that you are from Kolkata!
And yes, Kolkata is close to my heart.
Jennifer
I found it interesting to read about your connection with Kolkata. And, the places and things to do there like the temples and architecture. I’d visit the Victoria Memorial too, cause the state where I live is named after her.
stampedmoments
Oh so nice to know your little connection to Kolkata, rather Victoria!
Yes, you will love the city.
Thanks for the feedback, Jennifer.
Jane Frith
A very comprehensive post! So much to see, do and enjoy in Kolkata. Will save this post in the hope I get to visit some time soon.
stampedmoments
Hello Jane!
Thanks a lot for reading the post, and sharing a lovely feedback.
Surely, I hope you visit India one day, and of course, Kolkata.
Shrikant Bansod
The way you passionately and sincerely describe the city in your eloquent writing truly showcases your deep connection and genuine affection. It’s clear that your love for Kolkata goes beyond empty statements, as your heartfelt words beautifully convey the essence of this remarkable place.
I spent a few days in Shantiniketan, but unfortunately, I didn’t get a chance to explore Kolkata. However, I did have the opportunity to visit Howrah Bridge and Victoria Memorial. Your article beautifully captured the essence of Bengal’s vibrant culture, bringing back fond memories of my time there. Reading your words allowed me to revisit and relive those cultural experiences. It has reignited my desire to visit Kolkata in the future and delve deeper into its enchanting cultural tapestry.
thank you for this!!
stampedmoments
Hi Shrikant!
So nice to hear from you after long! Hope you are doing well.
Yes, Kolkata is very close to my heart as a city, especially its cultural vibrancy.
Thanks for reading it thoroughly and sharing your views.
Keep connected.
Amrita Mukherjee
My city is Kolkata and appreciate the way you have written about it. Yes, as you explore other cities of India you do realise why Kolkata will always be different.
stampedmoments
Oh yes, Kolkata is a unique city; body of a modern city with heart of a medieval city.
I just love it!
You live in a great city, enjoy!
Thanks for sharing your thoughts.