When people ask me to choose between mountains and beaches, I ask them back, “what about deserts?”. Yes, deserts can be beautiful too, especially when they are as diverse and culturally rich as Kutch is. Though Kutch is not a typical desert with sandy landscapes (like Jaisalmer for example), it is unique in many ways. Kutch, the largest district of India, offers a unique and enriching experience. In this article, I wish to share my Kutch-experience in brief and tips on how to experience the best of Kutch.
{Wanna know about cold deserts? Check out: Ladakh and Zanskar Valley}
No love at first sight
My love for Kutch goes back a long way. But it was not love at first sight! I fell in love slowly with the place over a period of time. It grew on me like classical music- first slow to catch up, but once it did, it stuck forever.
First view of Kutch landscape:
It was in the summer of 2006, I first visited Kutch for a field trip (internship) as part of my management studies. In fact, it was my first ever trip to any desert anywhere. I still remember the first view of Kutch from my bus-window. I had taken an overnight sleeper bus from Ahmedabad to Bhuj (district HQ of Kutch). Early morning, when the first sunlight broke through the glass and hit my eyes, I was aghast to look outside.
There was nothing outside (little rann of Kutch) except miles and miles of barren land with bits of shrubs here and there! Having brought up in Odisha, I was not used to seeing a completely barren landscape. It was not at all visually appealing to me. However, in another 2-3 hours, the bus reached Bhuj, a better looking place, my destination for the next one month.
My not-so-pleasant first experience:
Day-1 of my field trip with the staff of my host NGO, KMVS was unforgettably difficult. Sweltering heat (above 450 C) and dusty environment. No shelter in sight for long distances, not a single habitation for tens of kilometers! No big trees. On the 60 kms road from Bhuj to Nakhatrana, there were hardly 5-6 villages only! When we felt hungry, we had to stop over for lunch on the roadside. And then, had to sit under a small tree (called Gando Babul in Gujarati) to eat our food. Plus, as I was from a different culture, I didn’t like the food. So, I almost had to go hungry. Somehow, I got past the rest of that day!
That day was difficult. But as days progressed to weeks and months, I started liking the place, especially its people. Subsequently, I had the opportunity of coming back to Kutch time and again through the next ten years, both for personal and professional reasons. And I must say that it’s one of my favorite places to visit.
8 reasons to love Kutch, a unique experience
What makes Kutch a unique experience is a mix of its unique landscape, unique culture and rich heritage. You would be amazed to see so many various types of experiences in a desert district! Now, let me share my 8 reasons to love Kutch- clues for travellers to look for things to do in Kutch.
1. Kutch: a unique landscape
The first unique experience of Kutch is observing its landscape. A Forest department officer once told me that if you look at Kutch from the sky, it will look like a turtle shaped land with a long coastline formed by the Arabian sea. In the distant past, Kutch was under the sea. It came out of the sea due to tectonic activities.
Though it is mostly barren, it doesn’t have typical sand dunes one expects in a desert. It’s deserted in the north (part of the Thar desert), due to extremely low precipitation. The great salt flats lie in the northern Kutch. However, its south is blessed with seasonal rivers and some agricultural greenery.
The dominating plant of the land is Ganda Baval as said in Gujarati (scientific name: Prosopis Juliflora, English: Mesquite). This plant is native to south America, and is considered an aggressively intruding variety here. On the positive side, it gives the land some green cover and stops desertification. But on the negative side, it intrudes the agricultural fields to much annoyance of the farmers.
2. Bhuj: a quaint little town
Bhuj is home to one of my best friends, Chintan. I have never come across a more loving family than his. Sometimes, thinking about my days in Bhuj, I miss all of them. I remember how Chintan would take me to the lakeside for a walk after dinner. It’s a typical pastime for people in Bhuj and other cities in western Gujarat to go out after dinner.
Among the must-see places in Bhuj are the Prag Mahal Palace, adjacent Aaina Mahal, Kutch museum, Hamirsar lake and the Swaminarayan temple. These are all situated in a compact area. The Prag Mahal was commissioned in 1865 by the then King of Kutch, Pragmal ji (the Palace is named after him). It was completed in1879 by King Khengar ji III. Designed by Henry Wilkins, the Palace was built in Italian Gothic style. Besides, the Kutch museum is also situated nearby. The complex would take half-a-day to explore.
{If you love palaces, do check out the City Palace in Udaipur}
3. Rann Utsav at the salt flats:
There is one famous salt flat in Bolivia- ‘Salar de Uyuni‘ that everyone knows. It’s one of the natural wonders of the world. But there is one salt flat in India that not everyone knew before the Rann Utsav (Desert Festival) started in Kutch. Starting in 2005, the Rann Utsav has brought the salt flats and Kutch in general to the tourism map of India. When I used to work with the government of Gujarat, I had the opportunity of being part of the organizing team. That is memory of a life time for many reasons.
At about 80 kms from Bhuj, village Dhordo is base for the Rann Utsav. Every year during Nov-Feb, a temporary tent township is established here by the government for the visitors. During rest of the year, the salt flats remain under sea water. The festival offers the best of Gujarat’s art, music, food and culture. It costs between Rs. 3000- Rs. 10,000 per head for a night. One can book a tent for a night on their website (www.rannutsav.com).
4. Stunning sunset over the salt-flats
The sunset over the plain white salt-flat landscape is breathtaking, and undoubtedly, the most unique experience in Kutch. The contrasting orange colour of the sunset over the white colour of the salt flats is a photographer’s delight. Moreover, the sky remains cloud-free all the time as it’s a desert.
The sunset point is a few kilometers away from the tent city at Dhordo village. The organizers arrange vehicles for visitors staying therein to go to the sunset point. Or, if you are driving from Bhuj, you can directly visit the sunset point to witness the sunset and comeback to Bhuj.
In Dhordo village itself you can see the traditional thatched Kutchi houses (called Bhunga). And you can explore some Kutchi crafts like the mud craft in the village. Besides, an art & craft fair is also organized at the Rann Utsav site. I always fondly remember a particular visit to the Rann Utsav with Kirti bhai and his sweet family. We visited the salt flats, and stayed in the tent city for a night.
5. The beach town, Mandvi
Mandvi beach:
Mandvi, a small town in south Kutch, 60 kms from Bhuj, has a pristine beach. It’s good to visit both in the morning and in the evening. I would suggest to spend at least one day here. The beach is clean and mostly peaceful in the morning. Take a stroll during the tranquil hours and enjoy the cool breeze flowing from the Arabian sea. The beach brims with activities and street food in the evening. Take a camel ride if you like, have some street food (try the local popular delicacy dabeli). Huge windmills lining the beach are an interesting sight. And of course, not to forget the sunset over the horizon.
{If you are a beach lover, please also read: beaches of Goa ||| Odisha ||| Coastal Karnataka}
More attractions in Mandvi:
There is a small lake in Mandvi where thousands of seagulls converge every morning to have their food offered by the generous local people. If you wake up early, you can enjoy watching them, or feed them if you like. Even though I am not a morning person, I would happily accompany my colleague Jalpesh just to see the seagulls.
A few kilometers away, the 72-Jinalay, a Jain temple complex is worth visiting. It’s actually easy to visit because it comes on the way from Bhuj to Mandvi.
6. The lovely Vijay Vilas Palace
Maharao Shri Khengar ji III of Kutch had built a summer palace- Vijay Vilas Palace in Mandvi in the early 1920s. Today, it’s a major tourist attraction. Just 7 kms from Mandvi, it has its own private beach and houses a museum too. The design of the palace are inspired by the Rajput-Orchha style of architecture. Though the royal family now resides in the palace, part of it is open for tourists. The heritage building, and its lush green environment are good enough to spend half a day. Of the many visits, I fondly remember a particular visit with my friends- Krupa and Bhakti.
7. Cradle of civilization, Dholavira
If you are a history or archeology enthusiast, Dholavira is a must for you. It’s located 210 kms north of Bhuj in the ‘Kutch Desert Wildlife Sanctuary’ in the ‘Great Rann of Kutch’. It was one of the prominent sites of the Indus valley civilization, inhabited between 3500 BC and 1450 BC! Discovered first by the archeologist J.P. Joshi in 1967-68, it has been declared as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2021. It will need a day-trip to explore the ancient site. Though I have visited this place, I didn’t have a camera in my hand at that point of time!
8. People, craft and culture of Kutch
Last but not the least, Kutch’s rich craft & culture, and loving people. Arguably, they are the most important unique experience to have in Kutch. I love Kutch not only because of the things to do there, but also because of its warm people and diverse cultural heritage.
Thousands of years ago, when the northern Kutch region had small rivers, it was part of the great Indus civilization. You can still see the remains of that great civilization in Dholavira. Some of the prominent Kutchi communities include:
- A wandering pastoralist community called ‘Rabaris’ (who migrated from Sindh in Pakistan and Jaisalmer some 500 years ago)
- The Muslim community of ‘Mutvas’
- Claimed descendants of Lord Krishna- the ‘Ahirs’ and
- many other communities like Rajputs (Hindu), Jains, ‘Maldharis’ (pastoralists), ‘Khatris’ (artisans) and ‘Vankars’ (weavers).
Each of these communities has very distinct traditions and cultures. They wear different dresses, have different cuisines, and importantly, each one has a different rich craft (needs a separate blog post). Have a look at these pictures to get a sense of how different they are!
For craft hunters:
- Ajrakhpur (near Bhuj): Ajrakh block printing design with natural dyes
- Bhujodi (near Bhuj): Kutchi textile handicraft (Shrujan organization)
- Kamdar colony, Bhuj: Tie-and-dye (Bandhni)
- Nirona (40 kms from Bhuj, in Nakhtrana): Copper bells, Rogan art and lacquer art
- Jura (near Nirona): Copper bells
- Sanyara (50 kms from Bhuj towards Nakhatrana): Mud art (lippan) by Mutvas
- Dhordo (80 kms from Bhuj): Mutwa embroidery with mirror
- Hodka (60 kms from Bhuj towards Dhordo): Leather craft and Kutchi embroidery
- Sumrasar Sheikh (27 kms from Bhuj towards Dhordo): Rabari, Garasia, Jat embroidery (famous for Kala Raksha organization)
- Khavda (70 kms from bhuj): Clay pottery painting
- Lodai (near Khavda): Pottery
- Ludiya (Gandhi nu gam, near Khavda): Sustainable lifestyle; bead work, embroidery, wooden work
- Bhirandiyara (50 kms from Bhuj towards Khavda): Meghwal embroidery
Other notable things to do
Apart from the above most important things to see/ do in Kutch, there are a few other things to do as well. But I think they are more for people who are particularly interested in off-beat natural sites or, religious sites. Here is a list of those sites to choose from.
For nature/ wild life enthusiasts:
- Kalo dungar (Black hill); 90 kms from Bhuj, after Khavda
- Indian Wild Ass sanctuary in the little Rann of Kutch
- Kutch Bustard Sanctuary, Naliya (famous for Great Indian Bustard)
- Kutch Desert Wildlife Sanctuary, Khavda (famous for flamingos)
For religious seekers:
- Koteshwar Mahadev temple (170 kms from Bhuj in Lakhpat)
- Bhadreswar Jain temple (65 kms from Bhuj; towards Mundra port)
- 72 Jinalay, Kodai (60 kms from Bhuj; near Mandvi)
- Mata no madh (120 kms from Bhuj; in Lakhpat)
Kutch Travel Tips
Best time to visit:
Being a desert, it’s really difficult to visit Kutch in the summer- from March to September, quite a long summer! High temperatures hovering around 35 to 40 degree C plus dusty conditions make it a very difficult proposition. It becomes nice in the autumn-winters from November to March (temperature below 20 degree C).
A suggested itinerary:
To have a unique Kutch experience, keep 3-4 days, at the minimum, to do justice to the trip. If you have 5-6 days, it’s even better to explore the cultural aspects of Kutch.
- Day 0: Reach Bhuj in the evening; have some Gujarati food, and visit the lake in Bhuj after dinner.
- Day 1: Explore local Bhuj during the day. Visit Dhordo (Rann Utsav) in the evening to witness the sunset over the salt flats, and come back to Bhuj. Or, stay there if you have booked for the night.
- Day 2: A day-trip to Mandvi: First, stopover at 72- Jinalay (on the way to Mandvi); then Vijay Vilas Palace; and then the beach in the evening. Come back to Bhuj.
- Day 3: A day trip to Dholavira; explore some craft villages on the way (depending on the route you take; look out for the suggested villages in google maps).
How to reach:
- Airport/ Railway station: Bhuj (district HQ), well connected with Delhi, Mumbai and Ahmedabad
- Regular luxury bus services from all the major cities of Gujarat
Where to stay:
Stay in Bhuj or/ and Mandvi; have some good options there. In recent times, some options have come up near Dhordo village for visiting the salt flats/ Rann Utsav. Suggesting a few budget accommodations below for your convenience.
Go Desert Homestay, Bhuj (Rs. 1500 – 2000) | Kutch Courtyard – 5500 | Gateway to Rann Resort, Dhordo (Rs. 4000) | Rann Utsav – Tent City (Rs.3000- 10000).
Hotel Neelam, Bhuj | Hotel Noorani Mahal, Bhuj | Hotel Green Rock, Bhuj | Moon Light restaurant | Sankalp, Bhuj | Saffron restaurant, Bhuj | Zoraba the Buddha (Osho), Mandvi.
Kutch, a unique experience: Concluding note
Fond memories of my times spent in the magical land:
I visited Kutch at least 4-5 times every year over a period of 10 years for both personal and official purposes. The place I didn’t like on my first visit, eventually became a favorite place. Once I learnt about its people, craft, culture and history, I fell in love with the place. I developed many a friendship there and loved going back each time. I would always cherish my days in Kutch, a unique experience.
Over the years, I have worked with a number of communities in Kutch and on many a projects. Starting with watershed development to holistic planning, promoting art and craft, and fishery value chain development, and more. I owe a lot of my professional growth to the land and people of Kutch. I can never thank them enough for showering me with so much love and affection. Special thanks to Chintan (my friend) and his sweet family. Most of the times I was in Bhuj, I would be staying with them only. Their family is a lesson in hospitality, humbleness, and good life. Looking forward to my next trip to Kutch, and spending time with Chintan’s family.
Geeta
Beautifully described…..the women collected firewood is the most charming picture…would love to see more glimpses of Kutch..
stampedmoments
You hit the nail on the head! That’s one of my all time favorite pictures.
Kutch is wonderful; as much as I write, I feel writing more!
Thanks for the feedback; keep connected.
Santosh Gupta
For me Kutch has been one of the most beautiful places, I have ever been to. It has lovely beach in Mandvi, number of religious places for different communities, historical places and many more. The most beautiful is ‘White Rann of Kutch’. Its an experience which can rarely found anywhere else. This shouldn’t be missed during the winters
stampedmoments
Absolutely, Santosh. My days with you and Jalpesh in Kutch was one of the most amazing times I have ever had in my professional life.
We made a great team, and then friends forever. Thanks for everything.
Rupali
Revisited all the places through your post. Keep travelling and keep writing about your journey and experiences.
stampedmoments
Thanks, our best friend on the blog.
Your words are always so encouraging!
Soumen Chatterjee
Beautifully explained the magical Kutch. I loved the articulation. I went back to my memory lane , during my rural management internship period I went to Thar and faced similar problems but I loved it. Well Kutch is a different experience for you. Though I have not visited Kutch but would love to visit. More over Kutch has a seperate attraction. Well learned about the beautiful Mandvi beach seagull , as well as Vijay Villas palace. Most importantly Kutch is rich in handicrafts and Handloom products. It attracts lot of tourist.
Wonderful read 😊
stampedmoments
Thanks Soumen for sharing your experience. Yes, sometimes things that look difficult in the beginning can prove to be great later on.
Kutch is indeed a versatile land. A traveller’s paradise. So many things to explore!
Uday
Very beautifully articulated. It is indeed not verdant, but deserts offers an off the beaten track experience(literally).
1. The cuisine is interesting too. Due to pausity of irrigation, farmers grow vegetables and dry them, to be used through-out the year. It gives an interesting taste to the curries eaten with roti/flat breads.
2. The Little rann of Kutch offers a unique biodiversity tour, not excluding the wild ass and nilgai and the desert fox.
3. If you a birder, there are so many hotspots, it’s next to impossible to cover in a few days. Flamingo City, a spot between India and Pakistan borders, (accessible only through spl. permits) is a breeding site for the migratory birds. The great Indian bustard which runs cross country between the two neighbouring Nations is also uniquely found here.
4. Mundra and Mandvi are port cities which offer access to many Indian export products, which can be visited with spl. permits.
stampedmoments
Thanks Praksah. You have added some new angles to the Kutch experience, I had forgotten.
Maybe, let’s co-author an article on Kutch. I am sure, your thought process is so much refreshing and insightful!
Looking forward to more such engagement from you.
Surachita Pratap
Wow
stampedmoments
Thank you! 🙂
Jignesh S Patel
Great !!! 👌 Thru your post & mentioned details we know more brief about such a wonderful Historical places of Gujarat as well across India which I don’t know history !! I love to travel across India with family!!
Thank you for updating… Keep going 👍💐🌻
stampedmoments
Thanks a lot, Jignesh. We are happy that you found value in the articles.
Thanks for sharing your views too.
Please keep connected.
Chintan Sejpal
Written so eloquently about Kutch even many resident people in Kutch doesn’t have such classified information. So positive and awe-inspiring observation and writing skills. Suvendu, we had a great time with you, you are awesome and versatile. Keep spreading peace, happiness and love through your travel experiences and blogs.
stampedmoments
Kutch is an enigmatic place, and people like you make it a more beautiful place.
I can never forget the hospitality I received from the people of Kutch in general, and from your family in particular.
I miss you all.
Thanks for the feedback.
Please keep connected.
Ipsita Panigrahy
Beautifully explained, It may be helpful a lot when we plan to visit.
stampedmoments
Thanks Ipsita. I know you are a travel enthusiast; Kutch will be a great experience for you.
Do let me know when you plan.
Thanks a lot for the feedback.
Jayvanti Einjen
Nice
stampedmoments
Thank you 🙂
Pinkle
Nice reading. You know the land well.
stampedmoments
Hey Pinkle, coming from you, this means a lot.
I really love everything that Kutch has to offer 🙂
Harshal Rana
“As someone who has had the privilege of visiting Kutch, I couldn’t agree more with the sentiments expressed in this article. Kutch is indeed a treasure trove of unique experiences waiting to be discovered.
The vibrant culture, rich heritage, and warm hospitality of the people make every moment spent in Kutch truly memorable. Whether it’s wandering through the intricately designed alleys of Bhujodi, marveling at the exquisite embroidery of the local artisans, or immersing oneself in the soul-stirring rhythms of folk music, there’s something truly enchanting about the air of Kutch.
One aspect that particularly struck a chord with me was the article’s mention of the Rann of Kutch. Standing amidst the vast expanse of the salt marsh under the endless stretch of the sky, one can’t help but feel a profound sense of awe and insignificance. It’s a humbling experience that reminds us of the sheer magnificence of nature.
Moreover, the article beautifully captures the essence of the Rann Utsav. The carnival of colors, flavors, and festivities is a celebration of life itself. It’s a melting pot of cultures, where people from different walks of life come together to revel in the spirit of unity and joy.
Overall, Kutch isn’t just a destination; it’s an experience that lingers in your heart long after you’ve bid farewell. It’s a testament to the richness of India’s cultural tapestry and serves as a reminder of the beauty that lies in embracing diversity.
Kudos to the author for encapsulating the essence of Kutch so eloquently! This article not only inspires wanderlust but also encourages readers to delve deeper into the hidden gems of our incredible country. Can’t wait to embark on another journey to Kutch and create more stamped moments!”
stampedmoments
Hi Harshal!
Thanks for sharing your experience, thoughts and feelings.
Indeed, Kutch is so unique! It really builds on people who spend time there.
I wanted to write more! But then thought about the reader’s patience.
May I know more about you? From the way you see things, you seem to be a traveller yourself.
Where are you based?