Some landscapes are just beyond expression, and beyond words; Ladakh is one of them. No versatility of vocabulary is good enough to describe the landscape that Ladakh is. Lifeless, yet colourful mountains spreading across the horizon, interspersed with green patches in the valleys look magical. However, the best part is that it’s not all about the landscapes; Ladakh’s cultural heritage and architectural beauty are equally impressive. Our Leh- Ladakh trip this August was really challenging, but equally exciting and enjoyable. I would love to share with you the experience vividly, and of course, with our helpful tips.
My first experience of Ladakh was in August 2022 when I did a camping under the Gumbok Rangan in Zanskar. Exactly two years later, I went back with Parina; and this time to the other side- Leh, Khardung La and Pangong Tso.
A Leh- Ladakh trip used to be very expensive earlier. But now with cheap flights, and affordable facilities, the costs have come down drastically. I remember a few years ago, I had enquired with a travel agency in Delhi about the costs. The costs they quoted were as high as going on a European holiday! So, we had actually dropped the plan then. But in July this year, when I was checking flight prices, it came to be as low as $60 (~ INR 4800). So, we lost no time in booking our tickets. However, honestly, it’s not about costs only. The whole experience is so wonderful that we can now easily trade it off with a European trip.
{For more such reading on adventurous trips, please check out: Tawang Valley Experience ||| Dzukou Valley}
What makes Leh- Ladakh trip in August so wonderful
Jaw dropping landscape:
Forming the northern most part of India, Ladakh is at the frontier of the Himalayan mountain range pushing the Eurasian plate. Average elevation of the Ladakh region is around 3000 mts/ 10,000 ft. But it is home to some of the highest mountain passes in India, and the world. In fact, Ladakh boasts of the highest motorable mountain pass at 19,024 ft (5799 mts)– the Umling La pass. No wonder then that Ladakh literally means “the land of high passes”!
If someone has never seen Ladakh in pictures, and you are trying to explain to them how the landscape looks like, you would definitely struggle. The stunning vistas of high Himalayan mountains are absolutely awe inspiring. Massive mountains stand on your face, and also spread out across the horizon till the eyes can see and much beyond. Their changing shades every few kilometers mesmerizes the onlooker. More interestingly, they also change colours through the day; one colour during sunrise, another through the day, and quite different at the sunset.
Ladakh landscape in different seasons:
A trip to Leh-Ladakh is a wonderful experience any time of the year. But in my view, its true colours exhibit the best in summer, especially in August. Because its landscape covers completely in snow during winters. Though snow-covered landscape is an amazing sight itself, it hides the true colours of the mountains. The colours vary from grey to black, from blue to bottle green, from red to pink and from white to silver.
Due to global warming, seasons have shifted significantly. We heard that it starts snowing quite late now, and continues till about June- July! So, if you want to see the true nature of Leh- Ladakh landscape, plan your trip in July/ August. September onwards, it becomes a bit too cold to enjoy.
Technically, Ladakh is a cold desert, which means there’s hardly any rains through the year. Thus, it’s mostly bereft of any tree cover. However, owing to its high altitude, it snows a lot during the winters. Melting snows ensure there are green patches every here and there in the valleys. This creates a magical landscape- deserts with plenty of oases everywhere you go.
{If you like desert landscapes, do have a look: Jaisalmer (Rajasthan) ||| Kutch (Gujarat)}
Encapsulating cultural experience:
Ladakh’s beautiful culture is as unique as its landscape. It emanates from its diverse communities. It’s the only place (union territory) in India where Buddhists (40%) and Muslims (46%) constitute the majority with Hindus (12%) being a distant third. Moreover, Buddhism in Ladakh is heavily inspired by Tibetan traditions. This has prompted people to label Ladakh as “Little Tibet”.
Personally, I’m very fond of Buddhist philosophy and way of life. Besides, Buddhist monasteries sitting over hills with barren landscape make for a gorgeous sight. During our August trip to Leh-Ladakh, we explored quite a large number of important monasteries in and around Leh. Observing the graceful Buddhist Lamas engaged in rituals was one of the highlights of the trip.
Leh- Ladakh Trip in August: Our Plan Vs. Actual
Initially, we were planning to visit the Valley of Flowers in Uttarakhand in August. But looking at the flood/ landslide situation there, we had to change our plans. We were looking for a destination where the chance of rains playing spoilsport in August would be minimal. Thus, Ladakh came to mind. So, we took a week’s leave from office and planned for a 8 day-trip to Leh- Ladakh in August.
The original plan:
- Day-1: Reach Leh and relax; acclimatize | Day-2: Explore Leh town and nearby places | 3rd-4th day: Leh to Nubra valley (via Khardung La pass) and back to Leh | Day-5: Pangong day trip | Day-6: Leh and nearby places | One day reserve/ unplanned | Day-8: Leh to Delhi.
But as they say, man proposes, God disposes. As things turned out, Parina suffered from a severe Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), and had to be hospitalized for a bit more than a day! So, the plans changed a bit.
How it turned out:
- Day-1: Reached Leh around 1 PM by flight from Delhi. Checked in our hotel, relaxed to acclimatize; had very little movement. Both of us had a bit of headache through the day and evening.
- Day-2: Had light headache in the morning; so, relaxed in the first half. After lunch, we felt good. So, we decided to visit a few places on the Leh- Manali highway. Hemis Monastery, Thikse Monastery, Shey Palace, and Leh Palace.
- Day-3: Explored places on Leh- Kargil highway. Hall of Fame, Magnetic Hills, Zanskar- Indus confluence, Likir Monastery, Gurudwara Patthar Sahib, Phyang Monastery, Spituk Monastery, Alchi Petroglyphs and Alchi Monastery.
- Day-4: Parina suffered an AMS; and had to be hospitalized. (Explained in detail in a separate section below)
- Day-5: Parina was feeling better; but discharged from hospital quite late. I did a day trip (alone) to Khardung La pass. Basically, I had to drop Nubra Valley from the wish list due to Parina’s health condition.
- Day-6: Explored monasteries in the vicinity of Leh in the first half: Stok Palace and Monastery; Matho Monastery; Stakna Monastery. In the evening, explored Leh town.
- Day-7: A day trip to Pangong Tso (lake). Came back to Leh in the evening; explored Leh town.
- Day-8: Leh to Delhi by flight.
Best things to do in Leh Town
Exploring Leh, the enchanting town:
Such a lovely town Leh! Though we had seen pictures of the town on social media, seeing it in person was a lovely experience. Surrounded by mountainous cold deserts, it feels like an oasis with plenty of willow and poplar trees. From bustling markets to heritage buildings, pretty Buddhist Monasteries, palaces, castles, it offers quite a lot to explore. Leh is not only the largest town and headquarters of Ladakh, but also its cultural capital.
In fact, most of the tourists underestimate Leh town, and miss out on a lot of good things. Tourists generally use Leh as a transit town; hardly keep a day or a bit more for the town before pushing deeper into Ladakh. We spent three days exploring the places around Leh, and still felt like a day short. If you are wondering how, here’s a list of must-do things in Leh town.
Feel the buzz of Leh Main Market:
Leh Main Market is at the heart of Leh town; all roads lead here. It actually reminded us of Gangtok in Sikkim; quite similar layout, but even better backdrop. One can see the barren mountains and the Leh Palace in the backdrop of one end of the market. It’s neat and clean, very picturesque with plethora of shopping and culinary options.
Parina shopped a bit at a cute little Tibetan Market there. We loved the taste of fresh apricots sold by local women; we packed some for home as well. During the few evenings spent there, we liked the food at Jullay cafe, Leh cafe and the Himalayan cafe. There are two beautiful mosques, and a monastery to visit in the market as well.
Explore the bylanes of Leh Old Town:
Leh’s old town is grossly underestimated; but I just loved it. You won’t hear many travel influencers talking about it. But I had read about this while researching for Leh- Ladakh trip planning. When I actually wanted to locate the place, I found hardly anyone knowing about it. Only one gentleman approximately guessed about it, and guided me towards backside of the Jama Masjid at the Main Market. Still I couldn’t make out the place.
A little later, while wandering through the Main Market, I saw a little board with an arrow to the Central Asian Museum. Being curious about the museum, I followed the direction, and actually landed in the Leh Old Town.
The Central Asian Museum, established in 2007, showcases the role played by Leh- Ladakh in the central Asian trade in the ancient- medieval times. A number of artefacts and interesting maps of the Silk Route are on display. It’s a joint project of the Tibet Heritage Fund (THF) and Anjum Society.
Additionally, THF has undertaken another very novel initiative- Leh Old Town Conservation Project. The project is working on restoring and conserving the buildings and other elements of the old town, which have been hitherto lying neglected. They (with Anjum Society) are also working on conserving the oldest mosque in Leh- Masjid Sharif, just beside the museum.
Just in front of the museum, there’s a Gurudwara too- Datun Sahib ji. Walking around the old town was indeed a nice experience. Through the lanes of the old town, one can hike up to the Leh Palace.
Marvel at the architecture of Leh Palace:
Built in 1600 CE by King Sengge Namgyal, the Lachen Palkar Palace, or simply the Leh Palace stands proudly atop a hill in the middle of Leh town. The Namgyal royal family used to reside at Leh Palace till 1842 when the Dogras invaded Ladakh. The nine storied building is a masterpiece of Tibetan architectural style. From top of the palace, panoramic view of Leh town is a sight to behold.
There’s a museum inside the palace that houses some rich artefacts from that era. But not much original interiors or furniture from that era remain. However, the palace has been restored significantly by the Archeological Survey of India (ASI) in recent times. It also houses a small monastery.
Enjoy sunset at Shanti Stupa:
On the outskirts of Leh town, sitting atop a hill (11,841 ft), Shanti Stupa looks majestic. Though it’s relatively new (estd. 1991 by a Japanese monastic, Gyomyo Nakamura), it has great religious significance for the Buddhist community. Because at the base of the Stupa lies the relics of the Buddha.
It offers a 360 degree view of Leh town, and really special at sunset. As soon as we reached the base of the Stupa, both of us felt like in Florence (click). Like Florence looks stunning at sunset from Piazzale Michelangelo, Leh looks mesmerizing from Shanti Stupa.
Hike up to Tsemo Monastery and Castle:
While coming back from Khardung La Pass one day, I visited the Namgyal Tsemo Monastery. Otherwise, one could hike from the Leh Palace to reach there. It’s situated over a hilltop overlooking the Leh town. In fact, it’s the highest point in Leh town from where one can see almost all parts of the town. Beside the Tsemo Monastery is the Tsemo Castle, both built by Tashi Namgyal in 1430 CE.
While climbing its steps to reach the top, I met a Japanese lady and two men from Germany. Two other girls from another corner of Ladakh were sitting discussing their work. Except for the six of us, there was none. So, it offers tranquility to sit down in its balcony and keep looking at the gorgeous view of Leh town.
Apart from the above must-visit places, Leh has a few more interesting places to explore if you have the time.
- Zorawar Fort: Built in 1836 by a Rajput Military General- Zorawar Singh. Except for a small museum, there’s not much to see there now.
- A few more smaller monasteries.
Places to explore near Leh (Ladakh) as a day trip
Most of the places of interest around Leh are spread out either on Leh- Srinagar (towards Kargil) highway, or Leh- Manali highway. So, it’s good to keep at least one day for each side.
Places of interest on Leh- Srinagar highway:
- Hall of Fame, 5 kms; on the highway: Built in 1986, this is a museum in the memory of Army personnel who sacrificed their lives in several Indo-Pak wars.
- Spituk Monastery; 7 kms: On the highway
- Phyang Monastery; 19 kms: Detour
- Gurudwara Patthar Sahib; 23 kms: On the highway
- Magnetic Hill; 27 kms: On the highway. An interesting place where the landscape creates an optical illusion of lack of garvity.
- Likir Monastery; 56 kms: Detour
- Alchi Petroglyphs; 63 kms: Detour
- Alchi Monastery; 66 kms: Detour. This is a must visit.
- Lamayuru Monastery; 114 kms. Since this one is a little far, to cover this, either one should plan for two days, or drop Likir and / or Phyang Monastery.
Places of interest on Leh- Manali highway:
- Sindhu Darshan; about 7 kms; on the highway. On the banks of Indus river, Sindhu Darshan Festival is celebrated every year in June on the day of Guru Purnima.
- Shey Palace; 13 kms: On the highway
- Rancho’s School (Druk Padma Karpo School); near Shey palace; famous for “3 Idiots” Movie
- Stok Palace and Monastery; 14 kms: Detour
- Matho Monastery; 32 kms: Detour
- Stakna Monastery; 47 kms: On the highway
- Thikse Monastery; 18 kms: On the highway
- Hemis Monastery; 40 kms: On the highway
Best monasteries in and around Leh (Ladakh)
Leh- Ladakh is the best place for experiencing Tibetan Buddhism in India. No wonder then Leh- Ladakh has some of the most stunning monasteries in all of India. It’s a paradise, if you are a lover of monasteries. Grand monasteries sitting over hilltops across Leh- Ladakh is such a majestic sight!
As there are quite a large number of monasteries all around Leh- Ladakh, I did a good research to identify the best ones. And afterwards, I shortlisted the ones close to Leh so that we could visit them all. For your convenience, here’s the list (in no particular order) of best monasteries in Leh- Ladakh, as per my research.
1. Lamayuru; 2. Alchi; 3. Likir; 4. Spituk; 5. Diskit; 6. Hemis; 7. Stakna; 8. Chemrey; 9. Thikse; 10. Shey.
Except for Diskit Monastery (115 kms), which is in Nubra Valley, and Lamayuru Monastery (114 kms), all others are quite near to Leh town. So, during our week long stay, we could cover all of them except these two. I’m so enamored by these monasteries that I’ll write a separate blog on these monasteries later. Because in one section of this article, I cannot do justice to all these monasteries. Here’s the link: Best monasteries in Leh- Ladakh. However, I’ll make a special mention of our experience at Alchi Monastery here.
Alchi Monastery:
One of the oldest monasteries in Leh- Ladakh and India, if not the oldest (estd. 10th/ 11th century), this is a must-visit place. Just a look at the shrine, and one is sure that it’s really very old. The original mud-wood-and-stone structure is still intact. The monastery complex has three major shrines from 11th-12th centuries.
When we reached the monastery, it was closed for lunchtime (1-2 pm). So, we walked behind the monastery to appreciate the view of Indus river flowing beside it. Alchi village itself is cute with lovely souvenir shops and nice cafes. Since it was lunchtime, we found a place to eat- Zimskhang restaurant, which seemed to be popular among foreigners. The food (mushroom) and beverage (apricot shake) were really good!
Palaces in and around Leh
There are three major palaces in Leh- Ladakh that one must not miss: Leh Palace, Shey Palace and Stok Palace. All three of them were built by the Namgyal dynasty, in Tibetan architectural style and are located beautifully. While Leh Palace is within Leh town (mentioned above), Shey Palace and Stok Palace are not far from it.
Shey Palace:
Built in 1655 CE by Deldan Namgyal, son of the great Sengge Namgyal, Shey Palace is one of the most significant buildings in Leh- Ladakh region. It remained the abode of the Namgyals till 1842 when the Dogras invaded their land. They shifted to a new palace- Stok Palace across the Indus river.
Shey Palace is also home to Shey Monastery/ Shey Gompa. The monastery is famous for its 39 ft copper-gold statue of Shakyamuni Buddha. The statue is so tall that it encompasses three floors of the palace. The first floor covers only the feet and soles. When I reached the top floor of the monastery, only then I saw the face of the Buddha.
Not far from this palace, lies the original palace in ruins predating (~10th century) this one. Just a few kilometers away on the Leh- Manali highway is the Thikse Monastery. Avoiding the highway, if one walks on the other side of the palace towards Thikse Monastery, one will come across a valley across which hundreds of old chortens are spread over. One of the most fascinating sights in Leh- Ladakh!
Just in front of the palace, on the highway, try to locate a wall of rock art. Beside the palace, there is a museum of rock art as well. In front of that rock art wall is an old mosque; small but beautiful.
Stok Palace:
Till about 1600 CE, Shey was the capital of Ladakh when it moved to Leh. However, Shey remained important because as per tradition, the ruler had to father their heir apparent there only. King Tsepal Namgyal built the third palace of the Namgyal dynasty in 1820 in Stok as a retreat. However, afterwards they had to move there full time in 1842 when the Dogras invaded Leh- Ladakh. Since then, it has been the residence of the royal family.
The royal family decided to open the palace for public viewing in 1980. While the royal family lived in one part, one part was converted into a heritage hotel. In another section of the palace, there is a museum and a monastery which the public can visit. Located on a hilltop, it gives a wonderful view of the adjoining valleys of Leh, Choglamsar and Shey.
In the same village, a few kilometers away, is a 14th century monastery. Though it was closed when we visited, we loved exploring the shrine complex. We met an adorable couple from Bergamo (Italy) at the 71-ft Buddha statue nearby. We became friends, and loved hosting them at our home in Delhi on their way back.
Khardung La Pass Day Trip from Leh (Ladakh)
For someone born and brought up in a coastal place, high mountain passes are always a difficult proposition. So, I was a bit anxious before undertaking this day trip to Khardung La pass. At 17,582 ft (~5359 mts), Khardung La is among the highest motorable passes in the world. (point to note is that the altitude ~17,982 ft written on a board at the pass is wrong). It was going to be the highest pass that I had ever been to. My previous highest pass visit was Shinku La pass (16,702 ft ~ 4600 mts) in Zanskar Valley.
While driving from Leh (11,562 ft ~ 3524 mts) to Khardung La, one has to gain 6000 ft within 40 kms, approximately an hour’s drive! This is why it’s quite challenging for travellers who are not used to such heights. Low oxygen level and strong cold winds make it difficult for one to spend time up there.
From Leh to South Pullu (13,500 ft), about 25 kms away, I felt okay. But soon the altitude started showing the effect on me, because in the next 15 kms, we gained 4000 ft! Quite a steep and fast climb. When I got down at Khardung La pass, I instantly felt light headed. I was breathing oaky though.
A scary moment:
Feeling the grounds of Khardung La under my feet was an exciting proposition for me. Like the tens of visitors up there, I started taking pictures of the gorgeous landscape, while soaking up the 360 degree view of the high mountain pass. It was a long time dream come true!
However, then I decided to climb up to a point from where I could take some good panoramic pictures. Up there, though the views were breathtaking, the cold strong wind was too much for me. I felt breathless, and came down quickly after taking a few pictures and videos. Reaching below, I had a running nose, and noticed a little blood oozing out of my nose. I was scared, and called the driver to drive down as quickly as possible.
I felt a bit dizzy and lied down in the car. By the time we reached South Pullu again, I was already feeling quite fine. So, in the hindsight, it was a good decision to descend quickly.
Pangong Tso (Lake) Day Trip from Leh (Ladakh)
When Parina was fine again, we decided to go on a day trip to Pangong Tso (lake). In earlier times, travellers had to stay back in/ near Pangong because it was difficult to come back to Leh the same day. However, now owing to better road conditions, one can easily come back to Leh by evening. Since Parina had AMS issues, we thought of taking an oxygen cylinder with us. But then somehow decided against it.
We started the day around 7 AM; had breakfast on the way at Karu, and left ~8AM. Karu is the place from where the road from Leh diverges; while one goes towards Manali, the other goes to Pangong Tso. The road is new, and in very good condition. We kept driving for quite a long way overlooking the Sakti village, and a lovely monastery over a hilltop.
The road was so scenic that we kept on stopping over for pictures at many places. We didn’t stop over at Chang La pass though, because we decided to do so while coming back.
Pangong Tso, the most stunning lake
It was just before 11 AM, we reached Pangong Tso. What a stunning sight! The deep blue colour of the lake contrasting the brown-maroon-red landscape in the background! We had seen similar lakes in Tawang, but they were much smaller. Besides, the landscape was very different.
We walked along the lake for about an hour. Some enterprising guys have put together scooters in a nice little corner reminiscent of the famous Aamir Khan movie- “3 Idiots”. In fact, this was the movie that brought this beautiful lake into limelight. Since then, tourism has increased manifold here, and the government had to construct a new road.
It was so beautiful out there that we wanted to spend some more time. But Parina’s health was not good enough. So, we had lunch (instant noodles and moms!) at a small eatery there and left for Leh ~12.45 PM.
On the way, we again couldn’t but stopped over at many places. We especially loved a place where small patches of grassland are spread across a large valley, resembling the Puga valley. Another lovely place was where Tangtse river intersected the road creating a stunning view round the corner. Lovely yellow and purple flowers just added to the beauty of the place. We walked up to the river, and spent a little time.
Chang La Pass, on the way back:
As planned, we stopped over a bit at the Chang La pass (17,688 ft ~ 5391 mts), one of the highest passes in the world. At that exact time, some heavy machinery loaded on trucks were passing by. So, the Army personnel deployed there were clearing the road. Hence, we didn’t get enough time to walk around. In any case, very low oxygen levels would not allow us to hang around any longer!
Tangtse, Durbuk and Sakti village were the only three major settlements on the way. But there was a lot of greenery in patches wherever there was a valley. This made for a fascinating view through out the drive. We finally reached our hotel ~5 PM. While Parina chose to take rest, I decided to explore the Leh old town a bit more.
What we missed out, but you can try
Ladakh is so vast and has so many places to explore that an 8-day trip is hardly enough. Though not by design, but by default, we stayed the whole time in Leh and explored whatever parts of Ladakh we could. I must say that even then, we couldn’t do everything around Leh in Ladakh. Here are a few popular things that we would have liked to do in Leh-Ladakh, but couldn’t. Maybe you can try on your trip.
- Trekking: Ladakh is known for some wonderful treks, like Chadar trek (frozen Zanskar river), Stok-Kangri, Nubra valley (Phyang to Hundar). However, these are quite far from Leh. In Leh town itself, one may choose to trek a small distance from Leh main town to Shanti Stupa, or Tsemo Monastery. A little far, Markha valley trek is also popular. Though it’s a long trek, one may choose to do certain smaller sections.
{If you love trekking, you may like to read: Triund Trek in McLeodganj ||| Goecha La trek in Yuksom}
- Rafting in Zanskar: At the confluence of Zanskar and Indus (called Sangam), one can enjoy white water rafting.
- Explore village life: Though we visited a few villages near Leh, we couldn’t really explore them well. Some of the most beautiful villages are: Sakti, Rumbak, Fiang, Stok. Walk around the villages, talk to the local people, take part in some rituals/ festivals, if possible, eat with them.
- Experience festivals in Leh- Ladakh: The festivals in Leh- Ladakh are quite unique. So, if you can plan during one of the festivals, it will be a life time experience.
Leh- Ladakh Trip in August: Travel Tips
How to plan:
Any number of days might seem to be too few for Ladakh as a whole; but this article is about Leh. So, I’m suggesting an 8-days itinerary. 5 days for Leh (along with 2 days of acclimatization); 2 days for Nubra valley; 1 day for Pangong lake. If you have 1-2 more days on hand, spend in Nubra valley, or visit Kargil.
Best time:
- For snow experience: November to March; it actually continues snowing a bit till June, though intermittently
- Pleasant weather months: May to July; good weather conditions; snow capped mountains still in view
- Best photography: August to October; clear skies, and good weather. Good months for trekking. This time actually, it was quite hot in August. Afternoon temperatures were in mid-30 degree celsius. So, a number of flights were cancelled as the flight runway got too hot!
- For road trip: Roads connecting Leh and Manali, and Leh and Srinagar open only in June
- For experiencing festivals: Important festivals in Leh- Ladakh to look for: Saka Dawa (May- Jun); Chuli Mentok/ Apricot Blossom Festival (Apr); Losar/ New Year (Dec). Apart from these, every monastery has its own festival. Check out: festivals in Leh- Ladakh.
Things one must carry:
- Clothing: Heavy jackets, thermals, woolen accessories for winter | Light jackets for summer
- Documents: Government I-card
- Permits: Certain parts of Ladakh needs prior permission; check out: LDPTS website
- Food: Dry fruit, Chocolates, dry snacks
- Medicines and First Aid Kit (look for medicines for AMS below)
- Miscellaneous: Power Bank | Sunglasses | Sunscreen Lotion | Torch
- Besides, trekkers must carry their trekking gear.
How to reach:
- By flight: Direct flights from Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, Chandigarh and Srinagar to Leh
- By road: Either from Manali or from Srinagar. Takes 2 days. Opens in June; closes in October
- By bus: Government buses run from Manali and Srinagar when the road is open between June and September.
Where to stay:
- Budget Hotels: Sangaylay ||| Snow Lion ||| Lha-Zes ||| Shambhala ||| Reenam ||| Ladakh Country Inn ||| Leh Stumpa ||| Shaolin ||| Kangsing.
- Hostels/ Homestays: Rainbow Hostelier ||| Ladakh View Homestay ||| Ostal Residency ||| Heschuk Guesthouse ||| Raybo Hostel ||| Thangkop House ||| Zostel Leh ||| Julay Guesthouse
- Yes, I would recommend the place we stayed at- Woosah Hostel, started by a new age entrepreneur- Sahil, from the valley itself. Such a lovely, thoughtfully designed property! Though it’s a hostel, along with bunk beds, they have private rooms as well. Good food, comfortable space, and hospitable hosts. What does one want more!
How to move around:
- One has to hire local taxis, mostly SUVs, or vans to move around in Leh- Ladakh. They charge ~Rs. 4000 for local Leh; and for day trips, they would charge ~ Rs.8000- 10,000, depending on the routes.
- If you are not driving your own car to reach Leh, you have to drop that taxi in Leh, and hire another local taxi there. Because they don’t allow taxis from other states to hamper their business in Leh- Ladakh.
Where to eat:
Cafes and restaurants in Leh mostly serve three kinds of local food- Ladakhi, Tibetan and Kashmiri. Ladakhi food includes Khambir, Chutagi, Chhang and Skyu, while popular Tibetan dishes are Momos, Thukpa, and Tingmo. Kashmiri dishes like Pulao, Dum Aloo and Rogan Josh are also common. I also liked a typical refreshing juice in Leh that one can get only in Ladakh in India: Sea buckthorn juice. Sea buckthorn is a shrub that grows in Leh- Ladakh region, Mongolia, Russia, and northern Europe.
Some popular places to eat: Tibetan Kitchen ||| Naas Cafe ||| Asian Corner ||| Leh Cafe ||| Brazil cafe ||| Himalayan Cafe ||| Karim’s ||| Neha Snacks ||| Wanderer’s Terrace ||| Bodhi Terrace.
Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)
Majority of visitors to Leh- Ladakh go on a trip unprepared about AMS. Because either they are not aware enough, or they underestimate the risk. But this Leh- Ladakh trip taught us a great lesson.
When we landed in Leh, Parina already had a bit of headache. I didn’t experience much discomfort in the beginning, but later in the day, I too started feeling a headache. So, after checking in at the hostel, we decided to take complete rest. From our prior research, we knew and thus, decided not to engage in any physical activities on the first day. Though we were relaxing, we were clearly in some discomfort. Besides, the fact that we didn’t have good sleep the previous night, made things worse. We took a paracetamol each, and went to sleep early after dinner.
Next morning, we woke up with a little discomfort, but it vanished soon after breakfast. So, we decided to take a half-day trip on the Leh- Manali highway. In the hindsight, I guess, this was not such a wise decision.
Parina experiencing HAPE:
On the third day, we took a full day trip on Leh- Srinagar highway. By the time we came back to the hostel, Parina was coughing. Though I knew a bit that coughing can be one of the symptoms of AMS, I couldn’t be sure. So, she took a cough syrup, and thought that she would recover soon. But it worsened, and she couldn’t sleep the whole night!
The next morning, we were supposed to leave for Nubra valley. But because of her condition, we decided to visit the local hospital first. When the doctor checked, her oxygen saturation level showed 77%, which was alarming. Later, an x-ray test showed that she was suffering from an acute form of AMS called HAPE- High Altitude Pulmonary Edema. This means, water had accumulated in her lungs, and was a potentially life threatening situation. Such a scary proposition!
However, the treatment was straight forward- a few medicines/ injections and continuous supply of oxygen. The staff at the hospital was thoroughly professional and very caring. Soon, she started recovering. She kept the oxygen mask on for the next 28 hours, and recovered well.
Precautions one must take:
- Understand that AMS can hit anyone, irrespective of the gender, age, or fitness level. So, be prepared
- Before boarding the flight to Leh, engage in some exercise, and be fit to travel
- Sleep well for the last one week before beginning the Leh-Ladakh trip
- Carry medicines like Acetazolamide and Dexamethasone. They should be taken by consulting a doctor. But if there’s none to consult, and one needs to take one, these are fairly safe medicines. The fact that they are available as over-the-counter (OTC) medicines, one can be sure that they are not dangerous. One can take one tablet prior to starting the journey
- Though people generally believe that reaching Leh by road is better than taking a flight, there is no particular evidence to prove this. In fact, we met a number of bikers in the hospital suffering from AMS!
- After arriving in Leh, take complete rest for at least 48 hours to acclimatize. To maintain hydration levels, drink enough water. Then travel in Leh and nearby places first few days before moving to higher altitudes like Nubra or Pangong.
- To be on the safe side, carry a small oxygen cylinder while travelling to higher altitudes from Leh.
Concluding Thoughts
This time, my Leh- Ladakh trip was less overwhelming for me than the last time. Maybe because I already knew what to expect. And I was better prepared as well. So, planning and preparation plays a very important role in making a Leh- Ladakh trip enjoyable. This time, in spite of Parina’s health issues, and the need for changing the itinerary, we could do it relatively easily. Because, we had researched thoroughly, and had kept alternative plans in the mind.
On our next Leh- Ladakh trip, we plan to explore the Nubra Valley, Turtuk- Baltistan region, and Tso Moriri Lake. We will choose a festive time as well, so that we can experience the cultural vibes up close. Plus, staying in a village homestay would be high on the agenda. And hopefully, we don’t have any AMS to deal with.
Yes, high altitude destinations like Leh- Ladakh are always going to be challenging. But its uniqueness both in terms of landscapes and culture is a big draw. We will be back soon in the land of high passes.
Rupali Mitra
Mesmerizing views… a must visit for sure. You have beautifully described with every minute detail. It’s great to visit the places through your posts.
stampedmoments
So good to hear from you after long!
Rupali, Ladakh can be challenging for sure, but the experience will leave you speechless!
Do visit once in a lifetime.
Keep in touch; thank you 🙂
Putul Bhuyan
Interesting and delighted to know many things through your exciting travel trip. Thanks for sharing.
Regards
Putul
Guwahati,Assam.
stampedmoments
Hey Putul!
Great to hear from you after long!
How have you been? Thanks for the feedback.
Always good to have readers like you.
Thanks!
Nayan Kakati
Wonderful and elaborative description of all aspects of the tour. This will help tourist in exploring further.
Thanks
stampedmoments
Hi Nayan,
Glad that you liked the article; yes, we try to be as practical as possible.
Thanks for reading, and sharing your thoughts.
Cheers!
Alana Savant
hey, Suvendu. always look forward to reading about your travels. thanks for this wonderful write up. I was told that after the flash floods(2010), Leh has changed dramatically. But I am so happy to see from your photographs that they have maintained their traditional identity of the architecture. i think I have told you that I stayed there for 2 years in the mid 1990s and it was one of my best stays of my life.
stampedmoments
Hello Alana ji!
I have no idea how Leh looked like before 2010.
But, it’s so beautiful now! It would have been a great experience for you living here two years!
Thanks a lot for your appreciation.