Travellers often use the word ‘quaint’ casually. But no place deserves this expression more than Yuksom in west Sikkim. Yuksom, the first capital of Sikkim is gateway to the Kangchenjunga National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. One can see elements of both cultural and natural aspects of the World Heritage Site all over Yuksom. Serene landscape, ancient heritage, sleepy villages and laid back lifestyle of people, are features that I love Yuksom for.
Not only it’s historically rich, but also an absolutely charming place. Located in the foothills of the Himalayas, with verdant forests and beautiful lakes, this quaint little town has my heart. On my first visit this spring, I loved my three days there. It reminded me of Doi Suthep near Chiang Mai (click) to some extent.
{If you are fond of north-east Indian destinations, further reading suggestions for you: Darjeeling ||| Tawang}
Yuksom: Sikkim’s best offbeat destination:
At about 5-6 hours drive from Gangtok, in a remote corner of western Sikkim, Yuksom is heaven for peace lovers. If you want to forget everything, and just be yourself, and have a tete-a-tete with nature, this is the place for you. Not only there are very few tourists to disturb your calm, the local population is also very thin.
I noticed that most tourists visit Yuksom for trekking in the Kangchenjunga National Park, notably the Goecha La trek. Yuksom is one of the two gateways to the Kangchenjunga N.P., the other being Lachen in north Sikkim. Even though April is one of the best months for Goecha La trek, the tourist-flow was not that great. Thus, its remoteness is a blessing in disguise, I felt.
{If you love trekking, do have a look: Dzukou Valley Trek ||| Triund Trek}
I wished I had some more time…
After spending a few days in Pelling, I had planned to move to Yuksom. I took a shared jeep with a fellow French traveller- Nicolas, who I met at a homestay in Pelling. To be honest, I wasn’t sure whether there was enough to explore in Yuksom. So, I was planning to spend the next day there, and proceed to Ravangla the same evening.
However, I soon realized that there was no shared vehicle going out of Yuksom in the afternoon. So, I decided to stay back for another night. Believe me, it proved to be a blessing in disguise! In fact, I wished I had planned for a few more days in Yuksom.
Kangchenjunga National Park
Though India has the largest portion (55%) of the Himalayas, it has only the 3rd tallest mountain peak! While Nepal has the tallest peak (the Everest: 8,848 mts), Pakistan has the second tallest (K2/ Godwin Austen: 8,611 mts). Kangchenjunga at 8,586 mts (28,169 ft), is India’s tallest and world’s third tallest mountain peak.
Named after the iconic mountain, Kangchenjunga National Park lies in west Sikkim covering an area of ~850 sq. kms. Spread over two districts- Mangan and Gyalshing, its elevation ranges between 6000 ft to 28,000+ ft. It’s one of the seven National Parks/ sanctuaries of India those are part of the UNESCO World Heritage list. Interestingly, it’s the first one that is listed in the mix category, recognizing both its natural and cultural significance.
{Further reading on other UNESCO-listed Indian National Parks: Great Himalayan National Park ||| Kaziranga N.P. ||| Sundarbans N.P.}
The most notable factor of the Kangchenjunga N.P. is its 22,000 feet vertical spread over (elevation range) its 1,78,400 hectares of geographical spread. Adding to the diverse landscapes from lowlands, lakes, forests, to glaciers, it has one of the richest biodiversity in the Himalayan range.
Besides, the mountains in the region are revered as much by the ethnic Sikkimese people as the Tibetan people. They have deep spiritual significance in Tibetan Buddhism. Read more at the UNESCO website.
Treks within Kangchenjunga National Park Area:
There are two main treks in the Kangchenjunga N.P. area in Sikkim; one starting from Yuksom, the other from Lachen. The one that starts from Lachen is called the Green lake trek, a 11-12 days difficult trek. However, the more popular one is the Yuksom- Dzongri La- Goecha La trek, a 6-7 days moderate- difficult trek.
More than the slope or the route, it’s the weather that makes the Goecha La trek very difficult. One can undertake this trek only during two seasons: spring (Apr-May) and autumn (Oct-Nov). In the spring, though Yuksom is pleasant, it can rain and can snow higher up in the trek! Similarly, autumn becomes really cold as well. Between spring and autumn, it rains too much, and in winters, it snows heavily.
It’s always good to undertake a guided trek. Though the Forest Department doesn’t provide any such services, there are a few private service providers. While the Goecha La trek costs approximately Rs.14,000 to Rs.16,000/ person, the cost of Dzongri trek is around Rs.10,000.
Yuksom to Dzongri takes about 3 days to reach. From there, it takes 2 more days to reach Goecha La at 4940 meters/ 16,207 feet, and about 2 days to trek back. Though I had not planned for the trek on this trip, I would like to come back for this some day. So, I took inspiration from fellow traveller-friends from Israel- Adi and Danielle, who completed the trek.
Goecha La Trek: In the words of Danielle and Adi
Our experience of the Goecha La pass was really wonderful! Joining us on the trek were our trek guide and a helper (both 19 year old young lads), and a co-trekker. All of us had a lot of fun vibes and a lively journey.
The beginning….
The trek started at Yuksom village in Sikkim. From the village, we started early in the morning and hiked through the jungles. Meeting lots of horses and yaks on the way was really interesting for us. There were a few tea-houses and eateries where we had our meal and took some rest. By the evening, we got to our first and favourite campsite. To much of our liking, it was super cozy and we got to warm ourselves next to the cooking fire.
We remember the second day especially because of the beautiful route covered with the Rhododendron blossoms. By the beginning of third day, we had left behind the trees and vegetation. In the wee hours of the morning (~4.00 AM), we climbed up to the Dzongri top to witness a mesmerizing sunrise. Gradually through the day, snow covered huge mountains came into the view. Since we were supposed to start the next day just after midnight, we went to sleep early that day.
The summit day…
Waking up about 1.00 AM (!!!), we had a crazy sweet coffee at the camp. Soon afterwards, we started walking in complete darkness for about four hours! It was freezing cold and we wore all the layers we had carried with us. Finally, we reached the pass at about 4600 meters above sea level when the sun was about to rise. It was the most amazing view we have ever witnessed. We took some pictures with the snowy Kangchenjunga peak and wanted to spend some more time there. But we had to hurry back down because we couldn’t feel our legs any longer; it was that cold!
The journey back…
The way down was very beautiful because we could see everything we missed on the way up due to darkness. We stopped on the way at the amazing Samiti lake sitting there basking in the warm sunshine. Back at the last campsite, we slept for most of the day. After not sleeping the entire previous night, it was such a deep and satisfying sleep that day!
The next two days were easier because we walked downhill. We reached back Yuksom happy and really fulfilled. If one is contemplating doing this trek, we cannot recommend this amazing experience highly enough!
Things to explore in Yuksom, Sikkim
As I said earlier, though most of the tourists visit Yuksom for trekking, it offers a lot more than this. Here’s a list of best things to explore in Yuksom, Sikkim. Being fond of Buddhist philosophy, let me start with a heritage monastery.
Dubdi Monastery:
We reached Yuksom in the evening that day, just before it was completely dark. But since Nicolas was in a hurry, without wasting much time, we headed to our first destination- Dubdi monastery. Established by Chogyar Namgyal in 1701, it’s widely recognized as the first monastery of Sikkim. Being part of the Buddhist pilgrimage of Sikkim, it has great cultural and religious significance. Most importantly, the monastery is closely associated with the establishment of the Sikkim state itself.
The monastery is situated on top of a hill, and is about 3 kms up/ away from Yuksom. There is a road one can drive on, and there’s a short-cut jungle hike to reach the monastery as well. We took the hiking route, though it’s a bit steep! After a long day, I found it really hard to hike the distance in the evening. It was almost dark, and I was a bit scared of the jungle too. But Nicolas was nimble on his feet, and reached there some ten minutes earlier than me. I took about 35 minutes.
Such a beautiful monastery in the wilderness! There was no one else except for two of us, and a few stray dogs. Since the monastery was closed, we peeked inside through the window to see the interiors. Nicolas told me that he had information of some other monument behind the monastery. Thus, we ventured farther into the jungle; but got nowhere! Soon he realized that perhaps he was talking about Norbugang, which is at a different place that we would visit the next morning.
Coronation Throne of Norbugang:
On a beautiful morning next day, we decided to explore Yuksom by foot. It took only 20 minutes from our homestay to reach Norbugang. Nearly 300 years ago, the foundation stone of Sikkim was laid at this very place.
In 1642, a prominent Lama Lhatson Chempo crowned Phumsog Namgyal as the first King (or, Chogyal) of Sikkim. The Coronation Throne stands as a testimony to that momentous occasion. The tree (see in the picture) behind the Coronation Throne is said to be standing there ever since that day!
Norbugang is a stupa built near the Coronation Throne (below). Today, these two important monuments form part of the Norbugang park in Yuksom, another Buddhist pilgrimage site in Sikkim.
Kathok Lake:
Not far from Norbugang is the Kathok lake, a cute little holy lake for the Buddhists. It takes the name of Lama Kathok Kuntu Zangpo, the monk who introduced Buddhism to this place. Following the tradition, Buddhist monks perform a special event – ‘tru-sol’ every year, a purification ceremony for Buddhists.
Apart from its religious significance, this lake with the mountains in the backdrop, is a spectacular sight. I must say, I got the best pictures of my Yuksom trip here. It’s such a tranquil place that one can hear the sound of thousands of fluttering prayer flags. Such a lovely feeling!
Monasteries of Yuksom:
Buddhism is the lifeblood of Yuksom and Sikkim in general. Like me, if you like Buddhist heritage, there are quite a few things to explore here.
Apart from the old Dubdi monastery, there are three more monasteries in Yuksom. At about 100 meters from the Kathok lake is the Kathok Wodsalin monastery. It belongs to the Vajrayana sect of Buddhism. Another small monastery is at the heart of the Yuksom main market. It’s special for its 12 giant prayer wheels. About 20 kms away, near the Khecheopalri lake, there’s Tashi Choling monastery.
Kangchenjunga Waterfall:
Though there are a few waterfalls in and around Yuksom, Kangchenjunga is the best of the lot. This is only 10 kilometers away from Yuksom on the way to Pelling. Two of my homestay mates dropped me at the waterfall on their way back. From the main road, one has to hike about 100 meters to reach the falls.
I spent about an hour at the waterfall witnessing an impressive flow of water gushing from 100 feet above. When I was done, I thought of taking a sharing taxi/ hitchhike back to Yuksom. But after waiting for about an hour, I got nothing. It was then, a helpful taxi driver (who brought tourists to the falls) agreed to drop me in Yuksom for Rs.500.
If you love waterfalls, you can explore two more in the vicinity. About 12 kms from farther from Kanchenjunga falls towards Pelling is the Rimbi falls. And on the other side of Yuksom, at about 7 kms, there’s Phamrong waterfall.
Khecheopalri Lake:
At about 22 kilometers from Yuksom (towards Pelling), is this serene lake called Khecheopalri lake. The locals call it “Sho Dzo Sho” meaning “Oh lady, sit here”. If anyone know the reason, please let me know. A very interesting fact about the lake is that no leaves are seen floating around. The birds around the lake pick the leaves away from the water surface!
{Similar reading suggestion: Loktak Lake in Manipur}
Notably, this lake is holy to both Hindus and Buddhists. Being located in the valley of Demazong (valley of rice), and blessed by Guru Padmasambhava, locals believe it’s a “wish fulfilling” lake. Not far from the lake, there’s a lovely monastery as well. One can experience some spiritual tranquility at the monastery.
Though I couldn’t visit this one, Adi and Danielle did. In fact, they stayed there for a week enjoying its serenity and solitude. They told me later that it was their best experience in Sikkim. There are 2-3 small guesthouses nearby. Adi and Danielle rate Sonal’s guesthouse, where they stayed, very highly.
Explore the villages:
Last but not the least, the serene, scenic and peaceful villages around Yuksom. This is what touched my heart the most. I felt like walking around for hours. In fact, they are so pretty that parts of the villages looked like a piece of Europe.
The road from the main market to the helipad is green, clean and lovely. Colourful little houses, Buddhist shrines, and lush green canopy of trees make the village road such a beauty! At one Y-end of the road, there’s this helipad that gives a 360 degree view of the valley, and a panoramic view of the village. Among the houses on the hill slope, later I got to know that one belongs to the Bollywood actor- Danny Denzongpa.
At another Y-end of the road, trekkers start the Goecha La trek. There’s an interpretation center of the Kangchenjunga National Park there too. It’s basically an information center; they don’t provide any trekking/ guiding services.
From the Norbugang side, the main market of Yuksom looks stunningly beautiful. I loved walking around the main market observing families sitting outside of their houses. Besides, chatting with the locals, laughing with the kids on the way made my time special.
Yuksom in Sikkim: Travel Tips
Best time to visit:
Spring (March- May) and autumn (Oct-Nov) are the best times to visit Yuksom in Sikkim. While spring time is best for witnessing the Rhododendron flowers in full bloom, autumn provides clear skies.
How to reach:
- By air: The nearest airports are at Bagdogra in West Bengal (150 kms) and Pakyong in Sikkim (130 kms). However, Pakyong offers very few options.
- By train: Siliguri/ New Jalpaigudi is the nearest railway station
- By road: Either from the nearest railway station or airport, one has to travel by road to reach Yuksom in Sikkim. There is no direct bus services from these locations to Yuksom. So, a budget traveller can take a bus/ shared taxi from Siliguri/ Gangtok to Pelling, and from there, a shared taxi to Yuksom. A private taxi directly to Yuksom from either of these locations would cost around Rs.7000-8000.
How to move around:
As it’s a very small place, walking around and hiking (when required) are the best options, and enjoyable too.
Where to stay:
If you are looking for budget options, here are a few suggestions.
Limboo homestay || Welcome Homestay || Hotel Red Palace || Hotel Pemathang || Hotel Himsagar || Lobding Homestay || Hotel Tashigang.
Very few times, I make it a point to mention an accommodation as a special place. Limboo Homestay qualifies one of them in my book. As I booked this online, I had no idea how it would actually turn up. But it turned out to be a pleasant surprise.
Limboo Homestay, a special place to stay:
It’s a beautiful property with a small garden, and a backyard set in the nature, about hundred meters up from a rivulet. The rooms are comfortable and cozy. The aesthetics are engrained in local Sikkimese tradition.
However, it’s the hospitality and warmth of the hosts that impressed me the most. The homestay is run by the Limboo family (Limboos are a prominent community in Sikkim). I loved the way Rani didi treated everyone at their home. Her five daughters and a son work like a well-oiled machine to take care of all the details. Above all, they make the most yummy, but simple traditional food.
Further, my stay became all the more memorable by the people I met there. A couple from Israel, a couple from Australia/ Germany, a Marathi family and my French travel mate from Pelling.
Where/ what to eat:
Since it’s a small place, and tourism is not much developed, there are not many good restaurants/ cafes here. So, it’s best to have one’s food at the homestay or hotel one is putting up. At the middle of the main market, there’s a small eatery- Gupta Restaurant one may try out.
Typical Sikkimese dishes to try out: Dal-bhaat-curry, gundruk, sel roti, momo (dumpling) and thukpa.
Concluding Thoughts
There are not many places that can match the serenity, tranquility and charm of Yuksom in west Sikkim. Its remoteness is reassuring that it will remain so for quite some time to come. But if you are a nature lover, and like peaceful vibes, you must look this up. Even for culture seekers, this place is a heaven.
Observations:
- Interestingly, I observed people displaying their support for political parties openly by putting up party flags in front of their houses! This is in contrast with political behaviour of people elsewhere in India, where they generally keep the political allegiance a secret. If you have any idea of this, please let me know.
- Apart from the charm of the place, I remember meeting some of the most wonderful people here. Quite surprisingly, I met a couple (Danielle and Adi) from Israel whose first ever India trip started in Yuksom in Sikkim! Generally, people start their India trip in the golden triangle of Delhi- Agra- Jaipur.
Before visiting Yuksom, I had no idea of how it might turn up. Because there’s very little information up there on internet about this place. Hopefully, this article would inspire travellers to visit this charming place. If you want to know more, do write to us.
Vivek
Such a beautiful place! I didn’t know about this place. Actually, I have never visited Sikkim. Whenever I visit, I’ll plan for this. Liked the informative blog.
stampedmoments
Thanks a lot, Vivek!
Yuksom indeed is a lovely place; tranquil and serene!
Worth visiting; do plan some time.
Sara Hevia
It seems a quite and peaceful place
Himalaya is amazing landscape
Thanks for share places like this
stampedmoments
Hi Sara!
Indeed, it’s peaceful and the Himalayan vistas are stunning!
Do plan for Sikkim on your next India trip.
Cheers!