Tucked in a not-so-touristy corner of India, Bhubaneswar is a cute little city where the old meets the new. While Old Bhubaneswar has all the tourist interests, new Bhubaneswar is the capital city of Odisha. With its original temple architecture, a unique culture and great culinary offerings, Bhubaneswar can pleasantly surprise you. A lot of tourists undermine Bhubaneswar as a travel destination, and head directly towards Puri and Konark. But trust me, if you keep at least 2-3 days on hand, you can explore the city well, and have a great time. Since it’s my home state, I’m in a position to guide you well. So, here’s your ultimate travel guide to Bhubaneswar, the temple city. Temple city, because it has over 700 temples, and used to have even more!
{If you are looking for more Odisha destinations, here’s your essential read: Odisha Golden Triangle ||| Best beaches in Odisha}
Why travel to Bhubaneswar:
I spent y childhood in a small town, about 50 kms away from Bhubaneswar. Though I lived in Bhubaneswar only a couple of years, I have known the city in and out over 30 years now. Bhubaneswar is where the past meets the present, and heritage greets modernity.
While on one part, it exudes ancient cultural vibes, on the other, it has embraced modernity in good measure. In recent times, it has been fast growing as an important hub of education and health facilities in eastern India.
Similarly, while it has all the modern amenities, it still has that small town charm. Though in the past two decades, its population has more than doubled, one doesn’t get stuck on the road for too much traffic. However, modernity or development are not reasons why one must travel to Bhubaneswar. Rather, it’s the history, heritage and culture that attract one to travel here.
{If you like culturally/ historically rich places along with a modern side to them, do check out: Chiang Mai ||| Udaipur}
Old Bhubaneswar, the 'Ekamra Kshetra'
In ancient times, Bhubaneswar was part of the Kalinga Kingdom. It was among the first kingdoms to have maritime trade. Their traders used to travel as far as Java, Sumatra and Bali islands (now: Indonesia) before the common era! In those days, Bhubaneswar itself was known as ‘Ekamra Kshetra‘.
Not far from the Ekamra Kshetra was Sisupalgarh, the capital city of the erstwhile Kalinga Kingdom. But the capital shifted to a number of places later under various Kings. After independence of India, the capital of Odisha (new name for Kalinga) shifted from Cuttack to Bhubaneswar in 1946.
Ekamra Kshetra, early days of Bhubaneswar:
According to ancient texts, at the present day old Bhubaneswar, there were numerous mango-groves in which there was a main temple with lots of other temples around it. Owing to the mango-groves (ekamra), people called it Ekamra- Kshetra (meaning area).
Bhubaneswar, around 3rd century BC, was a cluster of 45 villages with their own temples and water bodies. Bindusagar lake, one of those water bodies, still is at the center of cultural activities in Bhubaneswar today. It was spread over an area (of about 15 kms circumference) between the old town and Khandagiri caves. Today, most of the places of travel interest in Bhubaneswar are in this area.
However, the capital city of Odisha today is in new Bhubaneswar, not far from the old Ekamra Kshetra. The first Prime Minister of India, Pundit Nehru laid its foundation stone in 1948.
Historically, more than anything else, Kalinga is famous for the Kalinga War at Dhauli. Your travel to Bhubaneswar isn’t perhaps complete, if you don’t visit Dhauli.
{For more such historic places, do check out: Ayutthaya ||| Shekhawati}
Kalinga War, the war that changed history:
Most wars result in change of boundaries, but some wars change history. Kalinga war, fought between Ashoka the great, and King Ananta Padmanabha was an epoch making event.
Year 261 BC. A marauding Army of the great Emperor of ancient India- Ashoka was on the march. On the way stood the king of a small kingdom with significantly less firepower. Mauryan empire at the time consisted of all but two kingdoms in the Indian subcontinent- the present day Odisha and Tamil Nadu. In spite of Ashoka’s reputation as a ruthless warrior, Ananta Padmanabha wasn’t petrified.
In one of the most bloodiest wars of all time, 2,50,000 soldiers died on the battlefield at Dhauli, not far from Bhubaneswar. It’s said that Daya river, flowing nearby, turned red in the blood of martyrs. Kalinga lost the war. But it changed Ashoka forever, and changed human history forever.
War gives way to peace:
After Ashoka’s accession to the throne, it was his first and last war! In a change of heart, he became a pacifist. Though Ashoka was already introduced to Buddhism a couple of years prior, his conviction in the religion cemented only after the war. Afterwards, with his incessant efforts, Buddhism came on the world map. And it still continues to be one of the greatest religions of the world. If you want to know more, here’s a good article: “Kalinga War, A change of heart?”
Today, Dhauli has three important places to explore: the ancient monument of Ashokan edicts, an old Shiva temple, and Shanti Stupa. The original Ashokan edicts are of high archeological value. Shanti Stupa that symbolizes world peace, was built in 1973 by Kalinga Nippon Buddha Sangha.
{Do you know, there are two more Shanti Stupas in India? Check to know: Leh- Ladakh ||| Darjeeling}
Mahameghabahana Kharabela:
In the aftermath of Kalinga war, Odisha (Kalinga) remained under the Magadha empire for sometime before coming under Mahameghabahana dynasty. Its most popular ruler, King Kharabela was a secular king, and supported all religious groups. Though he followed Jainism, he supported Hindus and Buddhists as well. The remnants of his great palace lie unceremoniously in the wilderness in Sisupalgarh, his capital. His famous inscriptions are still there at the Udayagiri- Khandagiri Caves in Bhubaneswar.
Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves:
One of the must- travel places in Bhubaneswar is the ‘Udayagiri and Khandagiri’ Cave Complex. Built between 2nd century and 1st century BC, in the times of Kharabela, these caves were residences for Jain ascetics. Two adjoining hills (Khandagiri & Udayagiri), called Kumari hills were cut out with ornate designs as residential complexes. Out of the 117 caves that existed then, only 33 stand today as witness to a glorious past of Odisha.
For an archeology enthusiast, four caves are of special importance. On Udayagiri hills: Hati Gumpha, no.14; Rani Gumpha, no.1; Ganesha Gumpha, no.10. On Khandagiri hills: Ananta Gumpha. These caves are among the most important archeological heritage sites of India. Hati Gumpha is especially famous for Kharabela’s inscriptions in Brahmi script.
Bhubaneswar becoming the temple city in medieval times:
It was in the medieval times that most of Bhubaneswar’s great temples came up. Between 7th- 12th century, the Keshari (Somavanshi) and Eastern Ganga dynasties constructed some of the most wonderful temples. Perhaps they were the reason why people travel to Bhubaneswar today. This was the golden period for temple architecture in India. For example, the Khajuraho groups of temples in Madhya Pradesh (9th- 10th CE).
Today, Bhubaneswar has over 700 small and large temples, from ancient and medieval times. Their architecture represents the Kalinga architectural style, a subset of the Nagara architectural style. Most of the temples were built in sand stone. The sheer number and also the quality of architecture of temples give Bhubaneswar the sobriquet- temple city. Not surprisingly, the temples of Ekamra Kshetra is in the tentative list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Hopefully, it gets a deserving recognition as one of the world’s most important heritage sites soon.
Temple structure in Odisha:
In the beginning, temples in Odisha usually followed a two- structure model. (1) Deula: Sanctuary, the main temple, and (2) Jagamohana: from where the devotees pay obeisance. However, some of the initial temples had only Deula. Later, the architects realized the necessity for more structures in order to accommodate social purposes. Thus, structures like Nata Mandapa (festival/ dance hall) and Bhoga Mandapa (hall of offerings) came up.
5 Temples in Bhubaneswar: Must have in your travel list
Of the 7000+ temples at some point of time, only a few hundreds (~700) remain today. Majority of them fell to the Muslim invading kings in the medieval times, and the rest of them gave way to modern day development. Most of the temples in Bhubaneswar are devoted to Lord Shiva, because Keshari dynasty who built these temples were Shaivaites. One may say, Bhubaneswar is the city of Lord Shiva. In fact, its name ‘Bhubaneswar’ derives from the word ‘Tribhubaneswar’, another name for Lord Shiva. Apart from the Shiva temples, there are a few other temples as well- Lord Vishnu/ Krishna, and other deities.
In this article, I choose to feature 5 of the most important temples in Bhubaneswar for a short travel itinerary. I have chosen these five because they belong to different eras, and also have one or another unique feature. For a more comprehensive view of all the temples, here is nice article: Temples of Bhubaneswar.
1. Lingaraj Temple:
This is perhaps the oldest and the largest temple in Bhubaneswar, and also architecturally, the most impressive. So, it must be on everyone’s priority travel list in Bhubaneswar. As per ancient scriptures, there was a temple in the middle of Ekamra Kshetra; perhaps this was Lingaraj temple. But as per evidence, parts of the temple was first built only in the 6th century.
However, major part of the temple that we see today was built in the 10th- 11th centuries by Jajati Keshari- I & II. Lingaraj, thus, predates the other great temples of Odisha such as Jagannath Temple (Puri) and Sun Temple (Konark). Its architecture definitely inspired these great temples of a later period.
The 180 feet (55 mts) high temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Apart from the main temple, there are 108 smaller temples in its campus! As per legends, the Lingam of the temple emerged itself from the ground!
Tips on visiting the temple:
- Darshan (obeisance) Timings: 6.30 AM to 12.30 PM; 3.30 PM to 6.30 PM
- Main festivals: Maha Shivratri (Mar-Apr) | Ashokastami Rath Yatra (Apr) | Sitalsasthi (Apr)
Unfortunately, the temple is open only for Hindus. So, most foreigners (non-Hindus) cannot enter the temple. However, if one wants to check out the temple from outside, there’s a pavilion (Curzon Mandap) on one side of the boundary wall. During the colonial era, Lord Curzon, the the Viceroy of India wanted to visit the temple, but couldn’t enter. So, he ordered erection of this pavilion. Thanks to him, foreigners can now have a glimpse of the temple.
Even for the Hindus, Since they don’t allow a camera inside, one can take good pictures from this pavilion. There are a few other places around the temple complex for viewing and photography.
2. Ananta Vasudeva Temple:
The second most important temple in Bhubaneswar is Ananta Vasudeva temple, not far from the Lingaraj Temple. At the center of old town Bhubaneswar (Ekamra Kshetra), just beside the Bindusar lake (a pond actually), stands this beautiful temple, 60 feet high (18.29 mts). Though its architecture is quite similar to that of Lingaraj, it has elements of Vaishnavism.
According to legends, Queen Chandrika dreamt of constructing a temple at a site where people worshipped Lord Vishnu. There is no evidence whether there was an existing temple at the site. Respecting her dream, and with help of her brother, King Narasimha Deva-I, she erected this temple in 1178 CE.
This is the only old Vishnu/ Krishna temple in Bhubaneswar today; ISCKON is a new Krishna temple. The idols look similar to those at Jagannath temple (Puri) from the same period, except that in place of Jagannath, there is Krishna. For more details, check out: Ananta Vasudeva Temple.
Like the Jagannath temple, there is a large public kitchen that cooks for the devotees. They cook all the food (prasad) in earthen pots, without using potatoes, tomatoes, onions and garlics, but really yum. The experience is so good that you must include this in your travel itinerary of Bhubaneswar.
Main festivals: Janmastami (Aug/ Sep) | Rakshabandhan (Aug/ Sep) | Diwali (Oct/ Nov).
3. Mukteshwar Temple:
Another gem from the Keshari dynasty, Mukteshwar temple is among the most recognizable symbols of Bhubaneswar. Intricately carved on both sides, the gateway (torana) to the temple is such a picture perfect architecture! I have not seen any similar architecture in Odisha, though I have seen a in Gujarat. Was there some kind of influence? I need more research to find out.
Built in 950 CE by Jajati Keshari- I, this beautiful temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. At 35 feet, this is a relatively smaller temple in Bhubaneswar, but of profound architectural beauty. In fact, its walls are among the most ornamental designs in Bhubaneswar.
“Mukteshwar” literally means the “Lord of freedom” (Mukt: Freedom; Shwar: Lord). So, its name suggests that the temple might once be a center of tantric Hindu traditions.
In the same campus lies the Siddheshwar Temple (estd. 15th century), on a higher pedestal to the north-west. And to the east, there’s a small pond. Along with numerous other smaller temples, and the pond, it makes for a wonderful temple complex.
Travel tip: Govt. of Odisha organizes Mukteshwar Dance Festival (esp. Odissi dance) in January.
4. Rajarani Temple:
Not far from the Mukteshwar temple, Rajarani Temple is another masterpiece of Kalingan architecture. Not in service, under the ASI now, this is the only temple in Bhubaneswar that charges an entry fee. Sitting at one end of a lovely garden, Rajarani temple looks pretty from a distance; quite Instagrammable stuff! So, don’t miss the most picturesque temple on your travel to Bhubaneswar.
Even after a number of archeological surveys, the exact date of construction of the temple is not conclusive. However, the surveys point to a period between 11th and 12th century CE in the times of Keshari (Somavanshi) dynasty.
There are speculations about its name as well. Some say that its original name was Indreshwar, and the current name is colloquial. Was it because a playful king (Raja) and queen (Rani) used to spend time in its expansive gardens? Or, was it because the Raja dedicated this temple to his Rani? We would never know, perhaps!
The main temple stands at 59 feet high (~18 mts). The architecture of the temple, and ornamentation on its walls (of the sanctuary) are among the best in Bhubaneswar. Quite a large number of carvings depict erotic postures like that in Konark and Khajuraho.
Travel tip: Government of Odisha organizes Rajarani Music Festival in January every year.
5. Chausath (64) Yogini Temple:
Though there are scores of other large temples in Bhubaneswar, I would suggest one to include this smaller Chausath Yogini temple in their travel list. Because this is very different from other temples in Bhubaneswar. Unlike other temples, it’s an open-roof temple, and it doesn’t follow the typical architectural pattern of Odisha. Again unlike the other temples, it doesn’t have the erotic postures in the images. Besides, it’s dedicated to a Goddess- Kali, and the Yoginis. Yoginis are forms of the Goddess Durga.
It follows the tantrik tradition of Hinduism, which was especially popular during 8th to 12th centuries. When we visited this temple, there was a tantric ritual in action; quite interesting to observe.
Another important fact: there are only four Yogini temples in all of India. Two of these are in Odisha; one in Balangir district (Ranipur- Jharial), and this is the other one in Hirapur village near Bhubaneswar (19 kms away). So, all the more reason to keep this temple in your Bhubaneswar travel list.
Queen Hiradevi of the Bhaumakar dynasty built this temple in 864 CE. It’s a small temple, but very unique. Of the 64 Yoginis, 56 remain; others fell to the raids of a Muslim King. The small statues of these Yoginis are put up in a circular manner around the main statue of Goddess Kali at the center of the temple.
Travel tip: Every year in December, the Chausathi Yogini Mahotsav is celebrated at the temple.
Other notable temples in Bhubaneswar:
Most of the other temples follow the typical Kalinga architecture, and look similar. So, for a tourist with two days on hand, the above five temples must be on the travel list. In any case, while moving around from one temple to another, one would come across a few more by the roadside. While one may not have the time to explore them all, one can take a glimpse, or some pictures for sure.
If one is especially interested in temple architecture, or history/ archeology/ photography, please keep 1-2 more days on hand to explore all the temples. For convenience, here’s a list of some other notable temples.
- By 10th century: Lakshmaneswar – Bharateswar- Satrughaneswar complex || Parshurameswar || Baitala Deula || Rameswar || Uttareswar- Bhimeswar- Astasambhu complex
- After 10th century: Brahmeswar || Bhaskareswar || Megheswar || Kedar Gouri || Siddheswar
- New temples: ISCKON temple (Krishna) || Ram Mandir.
Notable Other Travel Destinations in Bhubaneswar
In the sections above, I have discussed the most important travel destinations in Bhubaneswar, like Dhauli- Shanti Stupa, Khandagiri- Udayagiri caves and the temples. Apart from these, there are a few other interesting experiences to include in your travel plan to Bhubaneswar.
Date with the nature:
- Nandan Kanan (12 kms away): A zoological park set in natural environment, in fact, within Chandaka forest, with a beautiful lake (Kanjia) within the park. In order to explore well, keep about half day on hand.
- Deras dam/ lake: On the outskirts of Bhubaneswar, within Chandaka forest area, this is an artificial lake (backwaters of a dam). Especially good for boating, and enjoying a lovely sunset over the lake. If one wants to spend a night in the forest, there’s a guesthouse nearby. With some close friends, I have spent a night there; basic facilities, but good experience. Next morning, one may choose a jungle safari as well. If you are lucky, you may sight some elephants!
Exploring the new city:
- Odisha State Museum: If you are fond of museums, this one offers a good avenue to look into Odisha’s history and heritage.
- Shopping: Talking of shopping, here’s a list of good places to shop: Market building (Ashok nagar) | Utkalika (Ashok nagar) | Boyanika (Kharabelanagar) | Esplanade Mall (Rasulgarh) | Ekamra Haat (Ekamra Vihar).
- Ekamra Haat: A shopping complex for art and craft enthusiasts. Besides, there are a few eateries offering authentic Odiya cuisine. So, it’s a good place for evening shopping and dinner.
Day trip options:
If you have some more time on hand, Bhubaneswar offers a number of day-trip options. From spiritual destinations to natural beauty hotspots, you have a lot to choose from. In the section below, I’m listing only the major ones.
- Cuttack: The silver city of Odisha, its erstwhile capital, is just 20 kms away. Explore the ruins of Barabati Fort, visit its silver-filigree crafts market, and feel the charm of the old town.
- Buddhist circuit (Lalitgiri- Ratnagiri- Udayagiri): In Cuttack district itself, one can choose to explore the historic Buddhist heritage sites in a day.
- Chilika lake/ Mangalajodi bird sanctuary: If you are nature lover, you may choose to visit the Chilika lake, the largest brackish water lagoon in Asia. Adjacent to the lake there’s Mangalajodi swamp, a lovely bird sanctuary. In months of February- March, one can witness large number of migratory birds from as far as Siberia.
- Puri- Konark: Along with Bhubaneswar, Puri and Konark complete the golden triangle of travel in Odisha. Though one should keep at least two days for Puri- Konark, one can do it in one day as well. If you are planning for a longer trip, do check our blog on Odisha Golden Triangle.
Travel Tips: Bhubaneswar
Best time to travel to Bhubaneswar:
- Winter months of December and January are pleasant in Bhubaneswar. Besides, the government organizes cultural festivals during these months. So, plan your travel to Bhubaneswar during these two months.
- Autumn (October, November) and spring (February and March) are not too bad. Moreover, Odisha’s most important festival- Dussehra falls in October. Another popular festival ‘Holi-Dola Jatra’, generally falls in March.
- Since summer (April to June) is too hot, and monsoon (July to September) is too wet, it’s better to avoid these months.
My itinerary for you:
If your travel plan for Bhubaneswar is at least two days, you can explore all the important places of interest. If you want to explore nearby places as well, 2-3 more days will be good.
- Day-1: First half: Reach Bhubaneswar, check in, and relax. In the second half, visit temples of old town (refer above). In the evening, visit Ekamra Haat; have dinner there.
- Day-2: Ram Mandir | Khandagiri- Udayagiri | Chausathi Jogini Temple | Dhauli- Shanti Stupa. At the end of exploring all the monuments/ heritage sites, spend the evening at Deras dam-lake.
Then depending on how many days you have, plan for day trips (refer suggestions above). If you plan well, you can watch some Odissi dance performance at a cultural festival.
Reaching there and getting around:
Since it’s the state capital, major cities of India have direct flights/ trains to Bhubaneswar. For local travel, taxis/ cabs are relatively cheap, comparable to any other city in India. For the backpackers, local public transport options are frequent, and cheap too.
Where to stay:
Budget hotel options (Rs. 1500- 2500): Hotel Grand Central | La Franklin | Hindustan International | Hotel Excellency | Hotel Cozzet Victoria | Crystal Urban Park | Hotel Railview | Hotel Vintage Villa.
Where/ What to eat:
- For authentic Odia cuisine: Dalma (chain) | Shola Ana Odia | Atithi Devo Bhaba | Odisha Hotel | Ekamra Haat | Ananta Vasudeva Temple
- Multi-cuisine: The Zaika | Bhojohori Manna (Bengali) | Moksha | The Spice Route | Truptee | Tangerine
- Cafes: Bocca | Blueberrys | Big Cup | Area 8 | The Cutting Chai | Jugaad Jn. | Cha Khati
- Sweet dishes: Nimapara (chhena poda, chhena jhilli) | Chhapan Bhog | Narula | Shree Cuttack | Pahala (rasagolla). Though quality isn’t the best in Pahala, street experience is nice
- Must try Odia cuisine: Pakhala, Dalma, Odia Thali, Rasagolla, Chhena Poda, Dahi-bara (street food).
Concluding Thoughts
I must say, being a tropical place, one should expect high level of humidity through the year in Odisha. So, choosing the travel dates for Bhubaneswar is crucial for a nice experience. Bhubaneswar isn’t a party destination; so, one mustn’t expect a great night life.
There are so many amazing temples in Bhubaneswar that I cannot believe it’s an underrated destination. Not to speak of outsiders, majority of residents in Bhubaneswar itself wouldn’t know of the names of temples beyond the five I have featured here. It’s high time awareness of these architectural gems is spread among travellers and people in general.
Along with Bhubaneswar, travellers would typically travel to Puri and Konark as well. Of course, it’s a good idea. Apart from heritage, spiritualism and cultural experience, one gets to have a good time on the beaches, lakes and forests as well.
If you liked the article, we would like to hear from you. Wanna know more? Being from that place, I have more tips; so, do write to us.
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