Jodhpur: Best places to visit in the blue heaven

posted in: India, Western India | 0

Sitting over a rugged sandstone ridge with sapphire coloured houses, Jodhpur shines like a diamond in the arid landscape of western Rajasthan. Strategically located between the vast Thar desert and the oldest mountain range- the Aravallis, the medieval city has a unique geography and travel charm. Its Rajput era monuments, old world charm and a vibrant culture makes it a great travel destination. In this article, culling from my travel experiences, I’m sharing my pick for the best places to visit in Jodhpur.

Jodhpur is where the ancient mountains transition into rolling sand dunes, and a city frozen in time whispers its stories into your ears. A fort sits majestically over a hill and looks heavenly at night. In its foothills, the houses wear a blue shade to wade off a fierce sun. In the alleys and markets, all your sensory organs are activated to soak in the ancient vibes. Aroma of freshly ground cardamoms, chilies and peppers fill the air. Colours of tie-and-dye fabric dazzle one’s eyes. And the buzz of trade around the Ghanta Ghar feels as if we are still in the middle ages.

So, visiting Jodhpur to see its monuments is underestimating its essence as a destination. The best places to visit, as I’m going to share here, are only a fraction of what one can experience in Jodhpur. Hence, towards the end of the article, I’ll mention best offbeat places to explore in Jodhpur and some interesting things to do.

{To explore such places in Rajasthan, check out: Jaisalmer- Best places ||| Shekhawati in Rajasthan}

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Mehrangarh Fort overlooking the blue city
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A decorated camel on the street

All about the blue city

Though Jodhpur sits on the edge of the desert, it’s not quite a typical desert. If one drives from the east, i.e. Jaipur side, it’s Jodhpur after which one would come face to face with the true desert landscapes. Hence, people call Jodhpur as the gateway to Thar Desert. It has a rocky landscape, semi-arid weather and sparse trees and shrubs all around. In contrast to its lack of greenery, Jodhpur’s monuments are as opulent as it gets. 

Foundation of the city:

In 1459, Rao Jodha, a Rajput chief of Rathore clan decided to move his capital from Mandore town to the nearby Mehrangarh Hill. But there lived a hermit- Chidrinath with thousands of birds. While leaving the hill site, the hermit cursed the upcoming city to have perennial water scarcity.

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View of the city from Mehrangarh Fort
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Blue doors from the Blue city

In order to counteract on the curse, a local resident sacrificed his life at the alter of the city’s foundation. Even today, one can see a memorial stone at the exact place where he was buried alive. Besides, the king built two large reservoirs at the base of the fort to fulfill water needs of the city. This is how Rao Jodha laid the foundation of a great fort and a city that lives on. In his honour, the city is named after him.

To learn more history of the city, read: History of Jodhpur.

My experiences of Jodhpur:

It was the autumn of 2008 when I first visited Jodhpur on a solo trip. Far from my imagination of a low-key dusty city, Jodhpur revealed itself to me as a city of magnificent monuments. A city that was built more than 500 years ago, still shined and still stood there telling its own history. Yes, it is dusty, but it’s because of its location at the doorsteps of a great desert. However, its magnificence was there everywhere to explore and appreciate.

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Somewhere in Mehrangarh Fort premises
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Musicians at the fort

In subsequent years, I have visited the blue city three/ four times. Of these trips, the one with Parina and another with a friend- Sarfaraz, are particularly memorable. Yes, expectedly, the first visit was more of ‘seeing’ the best places in Jodhpur. But the subsequent visits were about exploring Jodhpur beyond the best places from a tourist point of view. I enjoyed its street food, conversations with the locals, walked around the old blue quarters and much more.

In this article, though I will primarily focus on the best places to visit in Jodhpur, in a separate section, I’ll mention some interesting offbeat places and interesting things to do as well.

{For more such experiences from Rajasthan, check out: Udaipur- Best Places}

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Enjoying a walk in the blue city

Jodhpur: Best places to visit

Jodhpur is all about witnessing magnificent monuments from the medieval era. The best places to visit in Jodhpur are located close to each other in the old city area. 

1. Mehrangarh Fort:

Of course, at the top of the list of best places to visit in Jodhpur will be the iconic Mehrangarh Fort. Foundation of the fort coincided with the foundation of the city itself. Hence, in the corners of the fort lies centuries of history, mythology and stories. Counted among India’s top forts, Mehrangarh was an absolute labour of love. Though it primarily followed a Rajput architecture style, successive generations of the dynasty got a lot of Mughal influence as well.

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Exteriors- Mehrangarh Fort
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Cannons at Mehrangarh Fort

If you are visiting the fort, don’t miss to appreciate:

  • Jai Pol (Victory gate) and Loha Pol (Iron gate): Of the seven fortified gates, these two look the most impressive.
  • Phool Mahal (Flower Palace): An opulent pleasure chamber with rich stained- glass windows used for enjoying dance performances.
  • Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Palace): A gorgeous hall with intricate mirror work.
  • Moti Mahal (Pearl Palace): When the queens wanted to witness court proceedings, they headed here.
  • Galleries (Museum): Separate galleries for cradles, arms and armor and palanquins.

{To know more about the museum, check out: Mehrangarh Museum} 

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Interiors- Mehrangarh Fort
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Palanquin gallery at the fort
2. Umaid Bhawan Palace:

What happens when two major architectural styles meet? Something iconic like the Umaid Bhawan Palace happens. In 1929, in order to give relief to thousands of poor people from famine, Maharaja Umaid Singh of Marwar Kingdom decided to build a palace and give away wages to the workers. Since he appointed Henry Voughan Lanchester as the chief architect, he brought in the European Art Deco style with him. When Art Deco met the local Rajput style, the result was a classy Indo- Deco iconic building- Umaid Bhawan Palace.

The palace is one of the largest residential buildings anywhere in the world. 26 acres of palace complex, 1 million sq. ft. of built-up area, 347 rooms- these sound astronomical figures for a private residence! {Which is world’s largest private residence? If you have visited the Statue of Unity, you would know- it’s ‘Lakshmi Vilas Palace’ in Vadodara.}

Today, the palace has three major sections: (i) private residence of the royal family, (ii) a luxury hotel run by ITC, and (iii) a museum open to the visitors. So, if you are there, don’t forget to get a museum ticket and take a sneak-peek into the opulence of the palace.

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Umaid Bhawan Palace- long shot
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Artefacts at Umaid Bhawan Palace Museum
3. Jaswant Thada:

Built in finely polished white marble from Makrana, Jaswant Thada is an admirable mausoleum for the members of the royal family of Marwar. In 1899, Maharaja Sardar Singh first built it in memory of his father- Jaswant Singh-II. Later, successive rulers of Marwar and their family members were added to this place. 

Interestingly, there’s a memorial for a peacock too! This peacock had flew directly into the funeral pyre of Maharaja Jaswant- II. So, in its memory, they built a memorial for the peacock as well.

For its white- marble look, people fondly call it ‘the Taj Mahal of Marwar’. With lush green courtyard and a lake (Dev Kund) beside it, Jaswant Thada is absolutely among the best places to visit in Jodhpur. 

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Jaswant Thada
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Dev Kund near Jaswant Thada
4. Ghanta Ghar/ Clock Tower and Sardar Market:

Do you know- what’s common between London and Jodhpur? It’s the same company (Lund and Blockley) that supplied the clock for London’s famous Big Ben and Jodhpur’s iconic Clock tower. Installed in 1911, the 70- feet high Clock Tower was built in Indo- Saracenic style by King Sardar Singh.

Around the Clock Tower, in a circular layout, a lively Sardar market remains abuzz through the day and evening. I loved the general hustle and bustle of the market. It’s a great place to buy traditional handicrafts, tie- and- dye fabric, clay toys and silver jewellery. Just outside the market, I savoured Jodhpur’s quintessential street food- Mawa Kachori, Pyaaz Kachori, Samosa and Lassi. Hence, I would put Sardar Market area in the list of best places to visit in Jodhpur, especially in the evening.

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L: Gate to Sardar Market || R: Ghanta Ghar
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Sardar Market vibes
5. Toorji Ka Jhalra:

This magnificent stepwell is among India’s best stepwells. A queen’s (Maharani Nirmal Devi) love for his beloved husband (Maharaja Abhay Singh) resulted in building of this stepwell in 1740 AD. 

Its zigzag steps take one to the water level 7 story (~ about 15- 20 meters) beneath your feet. After remaining unused and oblivious from public eye, just recently it got renovated recently through the efforts of civil society. Sitting there and watching children dive into its waters from the top was a fun experience. For heritage lovers, Toorji Ka Jhalra is surely among the best places to visit in Jodhpur.

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Posing with Parina at Toorji ka Jhalra
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Toorji ka Jhalra, Jodhpur
6. Blue Quarters of Jodhpur:

If you landed at Jodhpur airport or got down at Jodhpur railway station and headed to the city center, you would wonder- why do they call Jodhpur the blue city! Because on the way, it’s unlikely that you will see many buildings in blue colour. To see the real blue side of Jodhpur, you have to head to the old residential areas beneath the massive walls of Mehrangarh Fort.

I absolutely loved walking around the blue quarters and count them among the best places to explore in Jodhpur. It’s a typical indigo- tinted limewash shade or a copper-sulphate infused lime mixture that every household in the blue quarters uses. But why? Actually, no one has the definitive answer. But there are a few theories.

First of all, it was not this way from the beginning in 15th century. It started gradually sometime in the 17th century in Brahmapuri neighbourhood, right at the foot of Mehrangarh Fort. Most probably, it started as a practice among the Brahmins to identify their houses as different from others. However, later on, others noticed its benefit as a shade having cooling effects. Hence, gradually, everyone started painting their houses in this blue colour.

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Blue Quarters, Jodhpur
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A typical house in the Blue Quarters
7. Mandore Garden:

Drive 10 kms away from the city center, and you go back 600 years in history! It all started here. Before Jodhpur was established a s a city in 1459, Mandore was the capital of Marwar Kingdom. Now, it’s a historic heritage site, surely among the best places to visit in Jodhpur. Though its history goes back to 6th century AD, all the monuments that stand there today don’t belong to the historic- capital era. Most of these monuments are royal memorials and cenotaphs. In Mandore area, among all the monuments, one must not miss the ones below.

  • Cenotaph of Maharaja Ajit Singh: Unlike the regular dome-shaped cenotaphs in Rajasthan, this one is a four-storied impressive building like a temple with spires (shikhara) and balconies.
  • Hall of Heroes: On a huge wall in the complex, huge rock sculptures of Marwar folk heroes (like Pabuji and  Ramdevji) are carved alongside deities. Painted in bright colours, they look impressive even now!
  • 303- Million Gods’ Shrine: Adjacent to the Hall of Heroes, the 303 million Gods’ shrine houses a large number of carvings and paintings of Hindu deities.
  • Ruins of the historic Mandore Fort: Walking past the beautiful garden, if you climb up a little hill on the other side, you can see the archeological ruins of the ancient Mondore Fort.
  • Panchkund Chhatriya: Not far from the main complex, these are a group of 46 royal cenotaphs.
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Posing at Mandore Gardens
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A section of Mandore Gardens

Jodhpur: Beyond the best places (Offbeat)​

If you have lots of time on hand or are looking for offbeat places, here is a list of best places in Jodhpur beyond the fort. 

Best offbeat places in Jodhpur city:
  • Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park: Not far from the fort, set in a volcanic landscape, this ecological park has nice trails to explore desert flora.
  • Pachetia Hill: Behind the old blue quarters of Jodhpur, this is a vantage point for having a 360 degree view of the blue city and enjoy sunset. Plus, it’s a good place for photography.
  • Mahamandir Temple: A 19th century temple with beautiful architecture.
  • Kaylana Lake: A beautiful natural lake with hills around; a nice place to relax.
  • Gulab Sagar: A nice neighbourhood to walk around and explore residential architecture.
  • Navchokiya: Since the main blue quarter is crowded, head to Navchokiya to have a quieter experience.
  • Havelis of Jodhpur: Like most cities in Rajasthan, Jodpur also has its lovely Havelis. But now they have been converted into heritage hotels, like Pal Haveli, Kuchaman Haveli and RAAS.
Best offbeat places outside Jodhpur city:
  • Balsamand Lake: A man-made lake, about 8 kms away from city center.
  • Bishnoi Village: Just outside the main city, this community is famous for their love for eco- living and blackbucks. You can spot some blackbucks and also observe the community in its regular life. Or, participate in carpet weaving, pottery or cooking.
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Bishnoi Village

Jodhpur: Travel Tips

Best time to visit Jodhpur:

Since Jodhpur is gateway to the Thar Desert, it remains hot and dusty from April to September. Hence, autumn- winter months of October to March are the best months to visit Jodhpur. Plus, if you like cultural experiences, look for dates of the most popular festivals in Jodhpur:

  • Earlier known as Maand Festival, now- Marwar Festival (in October) is the most popular festival.
  • Close to the dates of Marwar Festival, Rajasthan International Folk Festival (RIFF) is another opportunity to enjoy Rajasthani folk music.
  • In mid- January (Makar Sankranti), Jodhpur celebrates International Desert Kite Festival.
  • End April/ early May, a local festival- Baithmaar Gangaur Mela is celebrated with much fervour.
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With a folk artist at Mandore Garden
How to reach Jodhpur:
  • Flight: Jodhpur has an airport; takes about 1 and half hours from Delhi.
  • Train: Jodhpur is well connected with major cities from across India.
  • Road: To reach by road, one may take a bus from Delhi or any major cities of Rajasthan. Else, one can drive from Delhi as well, about 600 kms away and takes about 12 hours.
Where to stay in Jodhpur:
  • For the best experience, and to easily explore the best places in Jodhpur, one should stay somewhere in the old city with a roof-top view of the Mehrangarh Fort. 
  • Budget hotel suggestions: Hotel Hinduja Fort ||| Jodhpur Heritage Haveli ||| Treebo Sonal Palace ||| Shri Ram Empire ||| Mantra ||| Hotel City Square.
  • Good hostels: Zostel Jodhpur ||| Hosteller ||| Madpackers ||| Moustache ||| Hostel Vostel.
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View of Mehrangarh fort from Hostelavie (now closed)
How to get around in Jodhpur:
  • Since most of the best places to explore in Jodhpur sit close to each other, one can easily walk around them. In fact, it’s the best way to explore this heritage city. However, if you don’t like walking or have dust allergy, local auto- rickshaws (tuk-tuk)/ e-rickshaws are a cheap mode of conveyance. 
  • One can book them for the whole day; they know where to take you. For the new city area and visiting places outside of the city, one can hire App-based cabs like Ola/ Uber.
  • For convenience and freedom, one can rent a bike/ scooter as well.
What/ Where to eat in Jodhpur:
  • Must try: Pyaaz Kachori, Mawa Kachori, Samosa, Rajasthani Thali, Mirchi Vada, Lassi, Gulab Jamun.
  • For street food experience, visit: Shahi Samosa Arora Namkeen ||| Janta Sweet Home ||| Suman Vilas Namkeen ||| Shandar Sweet Home.
  • If you would like to taste traditional Rajasthani/ Indian food, check out: Gypsy Vegetarian ||| Jaaton Ki Dhani ||| Gopal Roof Top Restaurant ||| Indigo Restaurant.
  • For modern cafes, visit: Radz Coffee House ||| The Almond Grove ||| Sam’s Art Cafe.
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Lassi at Shri Mishrilal

Concluding Notes

When one thinks of Jodhpur, its spectacular monuments come to mind first. Mehrangarh Fort, Mandore Gardens and Jaswant Thada are not only the best places in Jodhpur but are also among the best monuments in the country. However, one must look beyond these best places; Jodhpur has a quintessential desert city vibes. If one stays in Jodhpur for a bit longer, one can venture into the fringe areas of Thar Desert and explore lives of desert communities.

No travel guide can capture in words the complete essence of Jodhpur. From my experience, this is an effort to shed light on how to experience the desert city well. If you want to know more, do write to us.

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