Jaisalmer: Travel guide to have the best experience

In the barren landscapes of the vast Thar desert in western Rajasthan, Jaisalmer sits like an oasis. Its honey- coloured forts and palaces blend seamlessly with the golden sand dunes. After being a seat of power for centuries, the ‘Golden City’ is now a big draw among tourists. From its medieval Rajput architecture to an age- old cultural panorama, from thrilling desert safaris to soulful traditional food, Jaisalmer welcomes the discerning travellers from far and near. If you are one of them, here’s your ultimate travel guide on how to have the best experience in Jaisalmer.

When I first visited Jaisalmer, I realized that lifeless deserts are not so lifeless as they seem from far. It teems with its own inmates, very different from what we see elsewhere, but lively, nonetheless. Its landscapes are as beautiful as any other. The sunset over Thar desert looks as mesmerizing as over a mountain. However, unlike popular perception, Jaisalmer is not all about the deserts only.

In the narrow labyrinths of Jaisalmer, history, myths and stories intertwine with each other in a way to weave a mysterious tapestry hard to decipher. It looks like as if time has frozen in those medieval streets. The opulent buildings that once were pride of kings and rich traders, stand still as witness to a rich history. But the ordinary houses within the walls of the old city still reverberate with life.

These are some of the reasons why people love Jaisalmer. To know more, read: All the reasons to love Jaisalmer.

My experiences of Jaisalmer, the Golden City:

In the autumn of 2008, I first visited Jaisalmer, when I used to live in Ahmedabad. On a two- day trip, I explored the city a bit, but explored the deserts more. To be honest, I didn’t know much about the history and heritage of the city. Nor did I try to know much about it. I had an impression of Jaisalmer as a desert city, and I didn’t expect much richness in its architectural heritage. Those were my initial days as a traveller. Neither did I do any research before visiting, nor did I try to learn on site. Only a bit of fun in the deserts, and that was it!

13 years down the line, I visited Jaisalmer again in the autumn of 2021. And this time, I was a matured traveller. I knew what I had missed on my first trip- the history, heritage, monuments, local culture, people, food, and character of the city. I explored the nooks and corner of the city and enjoyed the vibes. Yes, I visited the deserts again, but this time it was more about relaxing than having fun. I lived in a tent resort and enjoyed a cultural evening with traditional cuisine.

Culling from my experiences of the two trips spread across a decade, here’s a travel guide for you to have the best experience in Jaisalmer.

{For travel guides on more such destinations, check out: Shekhawati in Rajasthan ||| Kutch- Best Places}

Jaisalmer: 8 Centuries in a nutshell

Jaisalmer as a kingdom has a 2000 years old history since its first rulers- the Raikas, Sindhis and Bhatis. However, it was a Rajput king Rawal Jaisal who in his quest for a place to establish a more secure and grand capital city, discovered Trikuta hill to build a fort in 1156. Much like other great cities in western India such as Udaipur, Jaipur, Jodhpur and Ahmedabad, Jaisalmer is also named after its founder. My travel guide to Jaisalmer wouldn’t make much sense without having the context of its rich history.

Unlike any other King, Rawal Jaisal built a fort that not only housed the royalty and the soldiers, but also welcomed all its residents to reside within its premises. The subsequent rulers kept adding palaces and buildings inside the fort to make it one of the most amazing forts in the world. This is where the current city of Jaisalmer grew around. In good old days, the whole population lived inside the fort; but since 17th century, inhabitants started settling down outside of the fort campus. With about 5000 inhabitants, it’s still one of the very few ‘living’ forts in the world. The inhabitants belong to two castes/ classes of Hindus- the Brahmins (priests), and the Rajputs (soldiers).

Jaisalmer’s rise and fall and resurrection:

Through the medieval ages, Jaisalmer flourished due to its strategic location on the ancient Silk Route connecting India with Central Asia and the West. The rulers and its traders profited immensely from taxes and built fortunes. Even today, when you walk around the streets of old Jaisalmer, you will see those opulent havelis standing proudly telling stories from their heydays. Unfortunately, most of them are languishing in despair without their owners. If you have visited Shekhawati in north Rajasthan, you would have noticed the large number of havelis with similar stories. {To read more, check out: Havelis of Shekhawati}

However, when the British came in and established Mumbai as a trade port, the importance of Jaisalmer diminished. Jaisalmer signed a subsidiary alliance with the British and became a princely state.

After India’s independence in 1947, Jaisalmer became part of the larger state of Rajasthan in 1949. Beginning 1970s, Jaisalmer started coming into prominence as a tourist destination. First came the Desert Festival (1979), then introduction of the Royal Heritage Train- ‘Palace on Wheels’ (1982) and recently, Jaisalmer Fort’s status as a UNESCO Heritage Site (2013). If Jaisalmer is a global tourist destination today, it has to thank these three significant events.

Now, let me come to the subject of the article- travel guide to have the best experience in Jaisalmer. I’m dividing this travel guide to Jaisalmer into three parts- (i) best places. (ii) best things to do and (iii) travel tips (with FAQs).

Jaisalmer: Travel guide on the best places to visit

As I mentioned earlier, Jaisalmer is mainly known for its sand dunes and its monuments. So, all the best places in Jaisalmer are around its deserts and the old city, especially, the Jaisalmer Fort area. In this section of the travel guide, I’m briefly mentioning the best places to visit in the desert area and Jaisalmer city area separately.

1. Sam Sand Dunes:

In the middle of the vast Thar desert, Jaisalmer city sits like a crown jewel, a city that brims with people and activity. However, a few kilometres outside the periphery of the city, it’s one comes face to face with an endless ocean of sand and barren land. At first glance, though the barren land look lifeless, on closer inspection, one sees a different world. Whether these deserts inspire life or not, thousands of tourists visit every day for exploring the beauty of sand dunes.

Though there are a few places one can explore sand dunes in Jaisalmer, Sam Sand Dunes are the most popular. On both of my visits, I have enjoyed sunsets over these sand dunes. This travel guide to Jaisalmer wouldn’t be complete without giving details of the desert safari at Sam Sand Dunes.

Desert Safari:

As we crossed the semi-arid landscapes outside the city limits, slowly the barren lands came into view. And another half an hour’s drive led us to the wavy Sam sand dunes. Our trip organizer had already arranged for a camel safari. The camel-man took us far into the sand dunes. A little bit of extra incentive, and he took us a little far from other tourists where we could enjoy the sunset in tranquillity of the deserts.

During day time, under the blazing sun, the deserts would feel like an open oven. But as sun slowly dips down the horizon, an orange glow spreads over the golden landscapes. Long, dramatic shadows of trees, camels, humans and the dunes interplay to make a magical scenery. In a matter of hours, the hot molten lava-like landscapes cool down and a cool breeze blows across the deserts.

In another hour after the twilight, a deep darkness engulfs the sand dunes. But look above, and millions of stars look down at you. In the pollution free air of Sam sand dunes, I have enjoyed counting the stars.

{For a similar experience, check out: Desert safari in Dubai}

Cultural experience at Sam sand dunes:

The quiet of the dark deserts is broken only by the beautiful folk music and dance of the artists from the nearby villages. I fondly remember staying in a tent- resort at Sam sand dunes. Coming back from the desert safari, we got into our relaxing mode. By dinner time, I noticed folk artists in their colourful attires converging at the courtyard of the resort. Slowly, all the inmates converged there too, and delicious food followed. To have authentic desert cuisine while enjoying the Kalbelia folk dance performances in the deserts remains one of my most beautiful cultural experiences anywhere in India.

As per one’s affordability, there are resorts to choose from. But I would suggest going for a good resort rather than a cheap one. Because perhaps this is the best part of a Jaisalmer- experience. Cheap resorts offer cheap cultural evenings and not-so-good food. On the other hand, good resorts organize authentic traditional folk/ cultural performances and great local cuisine.

2. Monuments in the Jaisalmer Fort area

On my first visit to the city in 2008, I was keener on visiting the deserts, and was not sure of exploring anything else. When I asked a few locals about the Jaisalmer Fort, they didn’t seem enthusiastic in suggesting me to visit the fort. Thus, I dropped the idea! Later in 2013, when the UNESCO declared it as a World heritage Site as part of Hill Forts of Rajasthan, I realized what I had really missed!

{To know another hill fort from Rajasthan in the UNESCO list, check out: Gagron Fort}

Hence, on my second visit, I explored the old fort area thoroughly. The striking golden-yellow sandstone in which the fort is built looked so gorgeous! The colour made it resemble sand castles we used to make on river beaches in our childhood. It dazzled like gold under the afternoon sun. No wonder Satyajit Ray, the Oscar winning film-maker called it the Golden Fort (Sonar Qilla). The golden fort and the surrounding golden sand desert prompt people to nickname Jaisalmer as the ‘Golden City’.

Monuments not to miss in the fort complex:

In the fort area, though everything looks classy, one must not miss visiting a few gems. So, here’s a travel guide to the best monuments within the Jaisalmer Fort complex.

Four Massive Gateways: Akhai pol, Ganesh pol, Suraj pol and Hawa pol.
Raja’s Palace: Starting 1156 AD, this King’s Palace kept getting larger and better over centuries. Its latticed balconies and ornate windows (jharokhas) look magnificent from the main square- Dusehra Chowk. Now, it’s a museum and houses a large number of original artefacts from the bygone era. Do visit the rooftop that offers a wonderful panoramic view of the golden deserts surrounding the fort.

Baa Ri Haveli: This 450-year-old haveli originally belonged to Brahmin priest, now converted into a private museum.
The Bastions: One cannot really miss the 99 circular bastions- the massive watch towers that give the fort a sand-castle look.
Temples: As many as 7 interconnected Jain temples with stunning architectural brilliance lay within the Jaisalmer Fort complex. Built over 300 years between 12^th and 15^th century, these temples are dedicated to the Jain Tirthankars like Sambhavanatha and Chandraprabhu. Besides, there is a lovely Hindu temple as well- Laxminath Temple.

3. Monuments outside the fort area:

Jaisalmer is not only about the fort though. If you are overwhelmed after visiting the magnificent monuments in the fort, you realize that many more equally splendid monuments wait for you outside of it too! Here are some of the monuments not to miss:

Patwon ki Haveli: 5 interconnected havelis, built by 5 Jain brothers in the early-19th century, are the most intricately designed havelis in all of Jaisalmer and among the best in India. Their 60 stunning jharokhas will blow one’s mind. Out of the five sections of the building in a narrow lane, Kothari’s Patwa ki haveli is now a museum, and worth paying a visit inside.

Vyas Cenotaphs: Located to the north of the fort, this cenotaph is dedicated to the writer of Hindu epic- Mahabharat, Vyasa. If you are planning to visit, keep in mind that it’s a great place to watch the sunset.
Nathmal ki Haveli: If there can be beauty is asymmetry, this Haveli proves it. In the 19th century, two architect brothers- Lulu and Hathi built this haveli from two sides without coordinating with each other. The result was an asymmetric building, beautiful to look at none-the-less.
Salim Singh’s Haveli (Moti Mahal): Also known as Jahaz Mahal (Ship Palace), this is a beautiful 18th century ornate building with 38 jharokhas. In 1815, the haveli was built by a Prime Minister of the kingdom- Salim Singh.

4. Streets and bazaars:

The narrow alleys and busy streets within the fort complex are abuzz with people and shops, mostly catering to the tourists. Because the people living in the fort complex have been there since centuries, there character has not changed too much over the years. With the heritage buildings and people in colourful clothing, these alleys are absolutely fascinating! They just took me to another era, centuries back in time! So, definitely, they are also one of the reasons to love Jaisalmer.

The street shops sell some of the most amazing collection of artefacts, dolls, puppets, brassware, home-decor, stone craft, hand-crafted accessories, silver jewelry, miniature paintings and much more. Rajasthan is a great place for shopping traditional craft products. Unlike many other tourist destinations where cheap Chinese products flood the markets, products on offer in Rajasthan are made by local artisans.

5. Gadisar Lake:

Originally, Rawal Jaisal built this lake in order to fulfill the water demand of the inhabitants of the fort. Two centuries later, Maharawal Gadsi Singh rebuilt the lake making it bigger and more beautiful.

At the entrance, a beautiful yellow- sand stone archway- Tilon ki Pol welcomes the visitors. Moreover, it’s noticeable how the lake is surrounded by a number of beautiful gates, chhatris, temples, etc. Isn’t the sight of a lake an amazing thing in a desert! One can take a fun boat ride in the lake too. To make things more interesting, every day in the evening (7.30 PM), they organize a light- and- sound show for the visitors.

Places of interest outside Jaisalmer (~ 100 kms):

If I forget to mention some of the important places beyond Jaisalmer city, I wouldn’t do justice to this travel guide. However, I would keep the distance within 100 kms from the city. One must visit Kuldhara, the ‘haunted village’ and Bada Bagh Cenotaphs, and if time permits, may look for other places.

Kuldhara, the ‘haunted’ village:

On our way back from the Thar desert safari to Jaisalmer, we visited the so-called haunted village of Kuldhara. About 200 years ago, unhappy with the local rulers, the Paliwal Brahmin community of this village and other nearby villages completely abandoned the area. Legend has it that a local minister wanted to forcibly marry the daughter of a local brahmin family, and the community complained against this to the ruler. Their complaints remained unheard. So, they decided to leave the village.

The village remains uninhabited since then. Some people have reported eerie things happening around the village; thus, the ‘haunted’ tag. However, I felt as good as anywhere else. The beautiful buildings in the village can hardly scare anyone off! But the ruins of broken houses around the village do give a weird feeling.

Other interesting places:

Bada Bagh Cenotaphs:At about 12 kms, these are a group of monuments honouring the kings and queens of Jaisalmer.
Lodurva/ Lodrawa village:The place from where Rawal Jaisal moved his capital to Jaisalmer still exists, just about 14 kms from Jaisalmer. Now it houses a few Jain heritage temples from the pre-12th century.
Desert National Park:If you are fond of exploring flora and fauna, visiting the Desert National Park is a great idea. It’s about 32 kms from Jaisalmer on the way to Sam sand dunes.
Battle of Longewala point: At ~100 kms from Jaisalmer is Longewala war memorial where a decisive battle was fought between India and Pakistan in 1971.

Jaisalmer: Travel guide on best things to do/ Itinerary

Now, in this section of the travel guide, let’s discuss all the interesting things to do in Jaisalmer. At the minimum, visitors should plan for a two- day trip to Jaisalmer. Here’s a suggested itinerary for the two day with the things one must not miss.

Day-0: Reach Jaisalmer in the afternoon/ evening. Take a stroll around Manak Chowk or Sadar Bazaar area, have dinner and maybe some shopping. While walking around in the market, book a desert safari trip (for Sam sand dunes) for the next day.

Day-1: First thing in the morning, head to the old city, especially Jaisalmer Fort area and explore it well till lunch time. In the second half, leave for Sam sand dunes to reach there well before sunset. Enjoy sunset at the sand dunes and then a cultural evening at a resort of your choice.

Day-2: While coming back from the resort, first enjoy some adventure sports near Sam village. Then visit Kuldhara (haunted) village and reach Jaisalmer by lunch time. In the second half, explore the monuments of Jaisalmer outside the fort area. To end the day, head to Gadisar lake, enjoy a light and sound show.

If you are interested in exploring more places outside of the city precincts, please have at least one more day (or two) on hand.

Jaisalmer: Travel Tips/ Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Last but not the least, in this section of the travel guide, let’s delve into a few important ‘Frequently Asked Questions’ (FAQs) about Jaisalmer.

Best time to visit Jaisalmer:

Since Jaisalmer is a desert area, summers (April to September) are of course, too hot. Hence, October to March are the best times to visit Jaisalmer. Besides, Desert Festival (Maru Mahotsav) is held in February every year. Other major festivals of Jaisalmer are Holi (March), Gangaur Festival (Mar/ Apr) and Diwali (Oct/ Nov). So, these are great times to have the best cultural experience in Jaisalmer.

Where to stay in Jaisalmer:

Budget hotels: Garh Jaisal Haveli ||| Lal Garh Fort and Palace ||| Royal Haveli ||| Oasis Haveli ||| Jaigarh Palace ||| Amar Villa ||| Shahi Palace ||| The Jaisalmer Hotel.
Hostels: Jaisalmer Hostel Crowd ||| Zostel ||| Explore Hostel Life ||| Moustache ||| The Hosteller.
Desert camping at Sam Sand Dunes: Oasis Camp ||| Bhati Desert Camp ||| Dynasty Desert Camp. (actually, one can check-in any of the camps on the spot as well; except for high-demand dates)

How to get around in Jaisalmer:

Jaisalmer is a small city and most of the best places to visit are close to each other. Hence, one can get around by auto-rickshaws or cabs. For a close interaction with the city, one can hire bikes on rent also. But walking around is a bit difficult (mainly because of the heat and dust), except of course, the old fort area where it’s the best way to explore the place.

What/ Where to eat in Jaisalmer:

Food is definitely a reason to love Jaisalmer. Here are a few suggestions to look for:

Try Dal Pakwan at Mohit Pakwan Bhandar.
Visit Jaisal Panorama for authentic Laal Maas (mutton).
For Pyaaz kachori and Mirchi bhajiya, visit Fateh ki kachori or Chandan Shree.
For Rajasthani Thaali, Ker sangria, Gatte ki sabzi, Mutton Saag, visit The Trio.
Daal-Baati-Churma at Gazi’s restaurant.
Makhania lassi at Kanchan Shree.
Ghotua ladoos at Dhanraj Rawal Bhatia Sweets.
Some other popular cafes: Café the Kaku ||| Tathastu Jaisalmer ||| Sky Treat Café.

Concluding Remarks

I think of Jaisalmer in three distinct ways- its deserts, its monuments and its cultural experience. Deserts are unique ecosystems and we don’t visit them quite often. That’s why when I visit a desert, it feels quite fascinating to me. Not only its landscapes but the villages and life around the landscapes. You don’t see camels everywhere (though now you do see at tourist places!). Witnessing the gentle, non-aggressive human-friendly animals in their natural environment is a lovely experience. The shrubs, reptiles and other desert creatures on the sand dunes are interesting to observe.

Moreover, Jaisalmer is not any other desert. As I said earlier, its rich history, heritage, monuments and culture add up to make it one of the most enticing destinations in India. If you are planning a trip to Jaisalmer, I hope, this travel guide is helpful. For more such information, you may reach out to us.