Best places in Kashmir to visit in summer

posted in: India, North India | 6

Nature doesn’t need pen and paper to write poetry, nor does it need words. It writes poetry with landscapes; with flowing rivers and serene lakes; with gorgeous vistas of mountains and valleys. Kashmir is pure, sublime poetry. Its landscape is blessed with high mountains that turn white in winters. On the other hand, it’s resplendent with Chinar trees that turn red and yellow with the coming of autumn. And come summer, the landscape turns lush green. Kashmir is a delight in all seasons. However, here I’m gonna talk about summer only. A friend (Santosh/ Bablu) recently  asked me for tips on the best places in Kashmir to visit in summer. So, this piece is dedicated to him.

"Agar firdaus bar roo-e zameen ast | Hameen ast-o, hameen ast-o, hameen ast." (words in Farsi)
In English: "If there is a paradise on earth | It is this, it is this, it is this”
amir-khusrau
Amir Khusrau
Indian scholar, poet, singer

Yes, Kashmir indeed is heaven on earth. I know it’s cliche, but I can’t help it; this is what comes to my mind first while thinking about Kashmir. I would actually go a step further to say that heaven might actually look like Kashmir, rather than Kashmir resembling heaven. Because Kashmir is for real, while heaven is imaginary! No wonder then that it’s the most sought after natural-destination in India.

Though Kashmir is an all-season destination, summer is when it receives the most visitors, because it’s the most pleasant during that time. While writing this article on the best places in Kashmir for summer, I draw mostly from experiences of my summer 2017 family trip.

{More such Himalayan destinations: Mussoorie ||| Dalhousie ||| Great Himalayan National Park}

sonmarg-best-places-kashmir
Kashmir, heaven on earth

Kashmir is indeed heaven on earth

If you are a landscape lover, or a nature lover, there is perhaps no better place than Kashmir. From overwhelming heights of the Himalayas to pleasing meadows, from snow-clad white mountain views to lush green hills, from charming lakes to beautiful gardens, it’s a complete paradise. 

Apart from Lakshadweep, Kashmir is the only place where Muslims have a majority in India. What this means is that a more than thousand-year old thriving Islamic culture to explore. Their food, clothes, craft, dance, music and language are all very unique partly and partly inspired by the middle-east.

However, in this article, I’m presenting only the natural beauty of Kashmir with a focus on the best places in Kashmir to visit in summer.

{Read about more destinations in the region: Leh- Ladakh ||| Vaishno Devi}

Is Kashmir safe for travellers?

First things first. The first question on the mind of first-time travellers to Kashmir is whether Kashmir is safe to travel. 

Though I have forgotten the name of our driver for the trip, I would never forget his words. He said in Hindi mixed with Kashmiri dialect: Saheb, Kashmir se jyada khaetirdari aur mehmannawazi aapko duniya mein kahin nahi milegi“, meaning: “Sir, you won’t experience better hospitality and warmth anywhere in the world than in Kashmir”. He further added, “Haan humare masle kai saare hain, par hum apne mehmanon ko isme nahi uljhate hain. Sine pe goli kha lenge, magar apne mehmanon ko kuchh na hone denge“, meaning: “Yes, we have our issues, but we never bother our guests with any of them. We can take the bullets on our chest rather than harming our guests”.

He echoed exactly how we felt while visiting across the state. Everywhere we went, from hotels to shops, from people on the street to officials, everyone was welcoming, and helpful through out. I don’t remember even one unpleasant incident anywhere.

While he shared his anger and disenchantment regarding the political situation in the state (I don’t want to share his specific views here), he was particularly courteous in explaining to us their predicament.

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Spending time with locals | Doodhpathri
Political violence doesn’t affect tourists

While political violence in Kashmir has a long history, one would rarely hear about violence against or involving tourists. There are two main reasons for this. First, Kashmiris in general (and people of hills all over) are naturally warm and lovable; they take their hospitality very seriously. Two, economy of Kashmir heavily depends on tourism. So, they take special care that tourists have a safe time there.

So, tourists are safe and happy in Kashmir. No need to worry. Just keep normal precautions like one would generally keep while travelling anywhere else. Keep your eyes and ears open. Don’t argue with people, especially avoid political arguments. Yes, you may try to listen to them, and their side of the story, and do respect their views. It actually helps. Moreover, it can actually change your perspective.

A summer experiencing the best places in Kashmir

In my younger days, I have heard my mom say many a times that she wanted to visit Kashmir at least once in life. At last, she had the opportunity of visiting her dream destination. In fact, Kashmir perhaps is a dream destination for all Indians. 

In the summer of 2017, we decided to visit Kashmir for the first time along with the family of a childhood friend. We were seven of us: I, Parina and maa (mom), and four of my friend’s family- Asha, Manas and their two kids. It was a five-day trip covering five places: Srinagar, Pahalgam, Gulmarg, Sonmarg and Doodhpathri. 

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Dal Lake with the Himalayas

Five Best Places in Kashmir to visit in summer

Kashmir is beautiful through out the year. It’s pleasant in summers, and bone chilling cold in the winters. However, a lot of people visit there in the winter for snow-sports and enjoying the views of white mountainous landscape. In this article though, I’m going to share my experiences of the best places in Kashmir to visit in summer.

Every inch of Kashmir is so beautiful that I find it difficult to pick the best places in Kashmir. So, it’s only for a practical travel-planning purpose that I’m sharing my experiences of the five best places in Kashmir. Each of these five places is different from the other with a special character of its own.

While Srinagar is the capital city and is especially famous for its iconic Dal lake, Gulmarg is a great place for snow-experience. Pahalgam has the best meadows and valley views. If you want to feel a glacier under your feet, Sonmarg is the place for you. Last but not the least, if you want peaceful idyllic charm of a river flowing in a valley, Doodhpathri is the best place.

There are quite a few other wonderful places in Kashmir, but for a first-timer, especially in summer, these are the best places to choose.

If you want to have a plan:

In case you are a first time traveller, and a five day trip makes sense for you, here’s a suggestive plan:

  • Day-1: Arrive in Srinagar, check in; explore the iconic gardens; evening at Dal lake
  • Day-2: Pre-lunch: local Srinagar (gardens and mosques); post-lunch: Doodhpathri
  • Day-3: Pahalgam; pony ride to Baisaran valley
  • Day-4: Visit Gulmarg, take the gondola ride, relax on the meadows 
  • Day-5: Visit Sonmarg, relax on the meadows; hike up to Thajiwas glacier.

For your planning convenience, here’s an indicative map marked with the best places in Kashmir to visit in the summer.

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Kashmir Tourist Map | Source: Googlemaps

Srinagar

Without shadow of a doubt, Srinagar is the most beautiful city in India, and one of the best places in Kashmir to visit any time of the year. The capital city offers the most number of things to do. However, the three quintessential things that Srinagar is known for are the picturesque Dal Lake, the iconic gardens and its beautiful mosques. 

Not to forget the rich history and cultural heritage of the city as well. Established at least 1500 years ago, the city has passed through a number of distinct cultural phases, and still retains some of those characters. I park the idea of a detailed presentation of the city for a later article. Here I’m just giving a snapshot of the best places/ experiences not to miss.

Shikara ride in Dal Lake:

I always love a boat ride in the calm waters of a lake. From the backwaters of Alleppey to the lake city Udaipur (click) and the hill station of Nainital (click), lakes are at the center of all tourist attractions. Dal lake is no exception. But for me, the charm of a shikara (small boat) ride in Dal lake is unmatchable. 

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Shikara ride in Dal lake

With the great Himalayas in the backdrop, the calm blue waters of the lake make for a spectacular sight. The colourful shikars took us around the lake, first to a peaceful part, and then through the floating markets of Dal lake. I found the shikara-vendors selling kahwa (a Kashmiri hot beverage), and other craft products to be a very interesting sight. However, riding a boat through the floating shops mostly selling Kashmiri hand-made textile products was absolutely fascinating.  

Another memorable experience at the lake was visiting the Gulshan Book-Cafe. Do ask your shikara rider for the cafe and spend an hour there.

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Passing through the floating market

Houseboats of Dal Lake:

Though people call them houseboats, I prefer calling them boat-houses as they are not boats in real meaning of the term. Unlike boats, they don’t really float around the lake; they float, but are stuck to the ground on the bank of the lake. They are bigger than the houseboats of Alleppey in Kerala, and give an experience of a resort.

Though we didn’t have the opportunity of staying in the houseboats, I’m sure that watching sunrises and sunsets must be special experiences from those houseboats. Moreover, they look fascinating enough from within the lake to go around them.

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Houseboats | Dal Lake

Gardens of Srinagar:

Srinagar has to be the city with maximum number of beautiful gardens in India.  Though Bangalore, Ooty, Kodaikanal and Delhi would give it a stiff competition, still Srinagar would win it hands down! In fact, the gardens of Srinagar are easily comparable to and often better than those in Europe (see: Paris ||| Geneva ||| Amsterdam).

Among the most beautiful gardens in Srinagar, the three Mughal Gardens come to my mind first: Nishat Bagh | Shalimar Bagh | Chasme Shahi Garden. Nishat Bagh is the largest one, and the most impressive. Situated on the foothills of Zabarwan mountains (part of Pir Panjal range of Himalayas) on one side, and Dal lake on the other, one cannot ask for better views! The terraced garden is a feast to the eyes with hundreds of varieties of flowers, and the magnificent Chinar trees (that resemble maple trees). It has been enchanting the visitors since 1633!

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View of Dal lake from Pari Mahal

Apart from the Mughal Gardens, the other must-visit gardens are: Pari Mahal | Indira Gandhi Tulip Garden (Asia’s largest tulip garden) | Nehru Memorial Botanical Garden | Harwan Garden | Naseem Bagh, in descending order of my favorites list. 

For want of time, if you want to prioritize, at least visit the ones in bold letters above. Pari Mahal gives the best panoramic view of the Dal lake. Please note that the Tulip garden opens only from end-March to April, the spring-summer season.

Popular Muslim shrines in Srinagar:

Irrespective of whether you want to visit the shrines of Srinagar for reasons of faith or not, they are absolutely worth visiting for their architectural beauty. The two most important Muslim shrines in Srinagar are the Hazratbal Shrine and the Jamia Masjid.

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Hazratbal Shrine
Hazratbal shrine: 

Built in the 17th century, this is one of the most important Muslim shrines in India as it hosts strands of hair of the Prophet Muhammed himself! The shrine, also known as Dargah Sharif, is as much popular among locals as among travellers. It has a long and quite interesting history (click to read). For a long time, it has been a symbol of Kashmir’s communal harmony. 

We spent an evening at the shrine and loved the experience. From the shrine’s campus, the panoramic view of the lake with a backdrop of the mountains was quite a spectacle. We sat there at the steps leading to the lake for more than an hour.

Jamia Masjid:

The most important mosque in Srinagar, Jamia Masjid was first built in 1402. Afterwards, it was rebuilt by the Mughals. I loved its architecture especially because of its novelty. Instead of the regular dome structure, it has a pyramidal shape, mostly inspired by Persian architectural style, with some resemblance with Buddhist Pagodas. 

Enamored by its unique design (by seeing in pictures), I had decided to definitely visit this mosque. On the last day of our trip, while coming back from Sonmarg to catch our flight, we were actually running a little late. Still then, I requested our driver to make a quick stop at the mosque. 

In spite of suffering severe damages due to major fires three times in its history, it still dazzles as ever, and can host up to 33000 worshippers at a time. 

jamia-mosque-srinagar
Jamia Mosque, Srinagar

Doodhpathri

For me, the second in the list of best places to visit in Kashmir in summer is Doodhpathri (literally: milky-rock). Though many visitors give it a miss, we made it a point to spend a good part of a day here. In fact, not having a large crowd was a major reason for enjoying the views and tranquility even more. Could you believe, it’s just about 45 kms from Srinagar, but still is a hidden gem!

We loved its enchanting meadows and the valley with river Shaliganga flowing through milky white rock beds. The valley has two major points of attraction: the meadows and the river valley. 

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Doodhpathri Valley

First we headed to the river point where we crossed over to the other side over a small wooden bridge. Indeed, true to its name the rock bed looked milky white, and the water too looked white! Shaliganga river flowing through the pine forests over the white rock bed made for a painting-like scenery.

While coming back, we stopped over at the meadows. What a pleasant sight that was! With very few tourists around, we went up to a picnicking local family to strike a nice chat. I loved having conversation with a local shepherd who was attending to his sheep grazing at the meadow. Whenever next time I’m in Srinagar, I’ll try to revisit this charming place.  

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A shepherd | Doodhpathri

Pahalgam

Pahalgam (90 kms from Srinagar) is famous for its stunning valleys like Betaab valley, Aru valley and Baisaran valley. On reaching Pahalgam, we realized that not all the valley are reachable by car. From Pahalgam, there are two routes. While one goes towards Betaab valley and Chandanwadi, the other takes you to Aru valley and Lidder river valley. One of Kashmir’s most beautiful treks, the Tarsar-Marsar lake trek begins from Aru.

{Similar reading suggestion: Camping in Zanskar- Ladakh ||| Triund Trekking}

However, to reach the most stunning beauty of them all- the Baisaran valley, one must take a pony ride. On that ride only, they take you to a few more view points like Dabyan, Deno valley and Kashmir valley. 

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Baisaran Valley, a hidden gem

We took that difficult pony ride across the hills to the Baisaran valley, which people fondly call ‘Mini Switzerland’. It was raining a bit before we reached Pahalgam. So, the narrow pathway up the hill was slippery, which made the ride even more difficult. However, it was okay, as even my mom could take the ride. In fact, she enjoyed the challenge of that trecherous ride. As they say, the best views come after the hardest journey.

Once we reached the Baisaran valley, one view of the hidden meadow, and all our pain was gone! It was a stunning sight with snow-capped mountains (Pir Panjal range) and deep green pine forests surrounding the valley. We spent more than half a day there walking around the lush green grounds and taking pictures with rabbits and pigeons. 

Pahalgam undoubtedly, has to be there in the top five best places in Kashmir to visit in the summer.

baisaran-valley-pahalgam-kashmir
Parina enjoying with the pigeons

Gulmarg

Next on the list of best places to visit in Kashmir in summer has to be Gulmarg, 50 kms away from Srinagar. It offers the best winter sports avenues in India. However, winter is a difficult time for me to tolerate the chilling cold. So, even though Gulmarg is a round-the-year destination, I prefer the summer. 

In summer, one can take the gondola (cable car) ride up to the snow point, and enjoy some skiing as well. Moreover, the large meadow with a small hill, atop which there is a small Shiva temple makes for a gorgeous sight. From near this central meadow, one has to take the gondola.

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All of us in Gulmarg
The Gondola ride:

For us, the most awaited activity of the trip was taking this gondola ride. We reached there late in the morning, and took the gondola right away to the snow point. We had to wear those long boots and extra-jackets that we got from a vendor. However, I don’t think it was really necessary. Maybe the boot was a bit helpful, but the jacket was not required (the normal jacket that we were wearing, would have been enough). 

The view from the gondola was wonderful, and the ride was exciting, to say the least. At the top, walking over the snow, the smile on the face of my mother was very special to me. She was so happy! Parina did some skiing, but I don’t like trying out these things for 30 minutes!

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The gondola ride has two phases. We rode up to phase-1 only. From the end of phase-2, one can trek up to (5 kms) the Alpather lake, beyond which is the Apharwat peak.

Once back to the central meadows, we took a pony ride around the meadow. The snow-clad mountains overlooking the green meadow was a stunning sight! There is a small market near the meadows, where we had our modest lunch, and left for Srinagar to reach before the evening.

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Parina trying skiing | Gulmarg
Things to do in Gulmarg:
  • Gondola ride to snow point; enjoy snow sports up there
  • Walk around the central meadow and hike up to the Shiva temple
  • Trekking to Alpather lake; the lake remains partially frozen even in the summer. Alternately, one can take a pony ride, or gondola ride to reach there.
  • Ride a pony up to Khilanmarg (only 5 kms away)
  • Play golf at the golf course just on the outskirts of Gulmarg

Sonmarg

Last but not the least, Sonmarg has to be there on the list of best places in Kashmir to visit in summer. We visited this gorgeous valley on the last day of our trip. It’s about 90 kms from Srinagar, and takes about 2 hrs to reach. When we drove up to Sonmarg in May, the roads were cut through thick layers of snow! So, the route doesn’t open till late April or May; and they close in late October.

Since this route goes towards Ladakh, the view of snow-clad mountains gets more frequent on this route. All over the route, the sight of small streams formed out of the glaciers, flowing between two mountains makes the route picture perfect!

Sonmarg is famous for the lakes and the treks. We were a big group with my mom being part of it. So, trekking was out of question. However, we did hike up to the Thajiwas glacier (9186 ft), the origin of Sind river. Standing on the awe-inspiring glacier was an amazing experience.

thajiwas-glacier-sonmarg
  • If you have time, you may explore the nearby areas of Baltal valley and Zoji La pass. Sonmarg is especially popular among trekkers in the summer for it offers some of the most amazing trek routes in India.
Treks in Sonmarg:
  • Kashmir Great Lakes Trek: Sonmarg is the base location for this famous, but difficult trek. The lakes on the trek (in sequence) are: Vishansar lake – Krishansar lake – Gadsar lake – Satsar lake – Gangabal lake –  Nandkol lake. Read a useful article on the detailed trek route
  • Other major treks: Amarnath peak | Machoi peak | Sirbal peak | Kalahoi peak. 
sonmarg-best-places-kashmir
Painting-like landscape | Sonmarg

Beyond the best places in Kashmir

Of course, there are some more wonderful destinations in Kashmir beyond my list of best places in Kashmir to visit in the summer. 

  • Gurez Valley: Kishanganga river | Wular lake | Razdan pass | Dawar swamp | Habba Khatoon peak
  • Yusmarg: It’s believed that Jesus visited this valley. Major attractions: Sang-e-safed (white rocks) | Pakharpora shrine | Nilang lake 
  • Pulwama: Tarsar- Marsar lake | Aharbal falls | Avantishwar temple. 
  • Anantnag: Martand sun temple | Jhelum river.

Best Places in Kashmir: Travel Tips

Best time to visit:
  • For pleasant weather: April to September (though roads to northern Kashmir open only in May)
  • For winter sports/ snow view: December to March.
How to reach:
  • The best way is to reach Srinagar by air
  • Nearest railway station, Udhampur is more than 200 kms away! Jammu Tawi (270 kms) is also an important station
  • Regular bus services from Jammu, Delhi and Chandigarh.
Where to stay in Srinagar:
  • Some budget hotels: Dal View Resort | Aala Residency | Nishat View | Curio’s All Seasons | Grand Habib | Pacific | Green Ville | Al Mehar
  • Budget Houseboats: Young Manhattan | Young Goodluck | Jewel In the Crown | New Golden Lily
  • Hostels: Urban Den | GoStops | Zostel | Orania | Gypsys Homestay.
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The guesthouse | Kashmir University
How to move around:
  • If you have enough time, you may take local buses
  • In case time is short on hand, cabs/ taxis are the best way to move around
Where to eat in Srinagar:

Golden Chinar | Kullad Chai | Gulshan cafe | Tao restaurant & cafe | Cafe Liberty | Lhasa restaurant | Chaai Jaai | Books & Bricks | Winterfell cafe | Goodfellas cafe | 14th Avenue.

Must try food: Kashmiri Dum Aloo, Rogan Josh, Goshtaba, Kahwa, Yakhni, Noon Chai

Do’s and Don’ts:
  • First check safety tips from the J&K police 
  • Carry your documents- identity cards, address proof, etc.
  • Keep the phone always with location feature turned on
  • Don’t start discussing politics; even if it starts somehow, don’t argue with them
  • Carry your woolens, even in the summer
  • Also carry your rain jacket and umbrella; it can rain in the summers
  • Having good quality shoes for rough terrains is a good idea
  • Be ready to live without phone for a while, if network issues arise.

Concluding thoughts on the best places in Kashmir

One cannot ‘experience’ all that Kashmir has to offer in five days. But our trip had a bit of everything: from boat rides to gondola rides, from romancing the tranquil waters of the lake to encountering the snowy mountains, we had it all. Whenever people have asked me about my favorite landscape experience, Kashmir has always sprung up in my mind first. It’s just picture perfect. Even if you take a picture with your eyes closed, you won’t be disappointed with the output.  

However, I remember Kashmir not only for its natural beauty.

It was not only rejuvenating for the battered soul, but also enriching for the hungry mind. I always wanted to experience that mystical land that is heaven on one hand and the center of many a controversies/ conflicts on the other. I haven’t shared much of my interactions with the locals and their viewpoints for obvious reasons. But those conversations were indeed an eye-opener.

I hope this piece on the best places in Kashmir to visit in the summer is enjoyable for your reading, and is also helpful for your planning. Or, you can always write to us for more details.

6 Responses

  1. Sajith

    I really love to read through. Its nice experience you shared with others. No doubt in that its a heaven and anyone can feel it. Waiting to pack my luggage to Kashmir. Really it will help us a lot.
    Thanks Bhai…

    • stampedmoments

      Hi Sajith!
      Thanks for reading through.
      Always great to have your feedback; really appreciate.
      Yes, let me know when you pack your bags! 🙂

  2. Jayvanti Einjen

    Heard a lot about beauty of Kashmir but
    never had the opportunity to travel to it
    I’m now eager to visit it because of
    lovely narration. Great work ; keep writing.

  3. Deepak Nayak

    I had already visited pahalgam as mentioned above during the year of 2016 and stayed there for 7 days. Surely I call it mini swizerland and heaven earth., very nice place. By the way you had elaborated very nicely. No doubts, in next summer, I will plan for family trip.

    • stampedmoments

      Heyyy Deepak! So nice to hear from you after long!
      Yup, Pahalgam is such a lovely place!
      If given a choice, I would love to visit every year! 🙂

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