My heart sinks to see Manipur drown in the recent sea of socio-political turmoil. Because it was just six months ago, I was there experiencing its beauty and culture. The biggest attractions for me in Manipur were the serene landscape of Loktak lake, a unique culture and much beyond.
I saw peace and happiness all over Manipur; had a great time with its simple, welcoming people. And then only in a few months’ time, I read about violence all over the state (know why)! But when it calms down again, one must plan to spend a few days in the ‘jewel’ state (Mani means jewel in Hindi and local language) of India.
After visiting Mizoram in March 2023, I took a flight from Aizawl to reach Imphal, the capital city of Manipur. The plan was to explore a few days in and around Imphal, especially enjoy Holi, the festival of colours, and visit Loktak lake on one of the days. I must say that I was pleasantly surprised to see the fervour in which Holi is celebrated in Manipur! (that’s for another day).
{Wanna read about more destinations in north-east India? Check out: Dzukou Valley Trek ||| Darjeeling}
Manipur: What's so special?
Why visit Manipur? Because it’s special in so many ways! Though its ancient name was Kangleipak, in modern times (some time in the 18th century during the reign of Pamheiba Garib Niwaz), it came to be known as Manipur. For a small state, it stands true to its name- the land of jewel/ gems.
The geography is composed of an oval shaped Imphal valley surrounded by hills with four major river systems including the Manipur river basin. The beautiful Loktak lake, the focus of this article lies in the central valley region alongside the Keibul National Park, the only floating national park in the world.
Above all, Manipur has a vibrant cultural heritage. If you love classical dance forms, Manipuri dance, one of India’s classical dances, will enthrall you to the core. Manipuri cuisine is subtle and unique. Manipur boasts of the origin place of polo, the majestic equestrian sports.
Unlike most of India, women enjoy a great place in the society. I loved to see women of the state in equal footing with men in all walks of life. It takes pride in its only-women market at the heart of Imphal. So, one has quite a few reasons to visit the state.
Loktak Lake in Manipur
Right in the Imphal valley, 45 kilometers south of Imphal city lies the fascinating Loktak lake with an access point at Moirang town in Bishnupur district. With a surface area varying between 250 sq. km 500 sq. km. in various seasons, it’s the largest freshwater lake in South Asia. Apart from its size, the lake set in a very tranquil atmosphere with vegetation all around, looks serene and beautiful.
{Talking of beautiful lakes, have a look at these: Nainital ||| Lake city Udaipur ||| Vembanad lake- Alleppey}
However, the fascination for the lake arises mainly because of its famous Phumdis.
The fascinating Phumdis:
Phumdis are basically a unique type of floating islands constituting biomass, vegetation, soil and decaying organic matter. Interestingly, only 20% of the Phumdi’s mass floats over water, 80% remain submerged. They can be as small as a few meters or as big as a few kilometers in diameter! Would you believe, the largest of these Phumdis is actually 40 sq. km. big, and houses a National Park- Keibul Lamjao National Park.
The villagers living by the lake build small huts on the Phumdis and use them for growing vegetable, fishing, and collecting straw for their houses. In recent times, villagers have actually made artificial Phumdis (called Athapums) for fish farming. Unfortunately, the whole lake is now full of these artificial Phumdis, not particularly good for the lake’s ecological balance.
Keibul Lamjao National Park:
On the south eastern periphery of the Loktak lake, floats this giant Phumdi that houses the Keibul Lamjao National Park. It’s the only floating National Park in the world.
Besides, the National Park is the last natural habitat of the magnificent brow-antlered deer called Sangai (Rucervus eldii eldii), the state animal of Manipur. Its importance can be gauged from the fact that it’s on the tentative list of the UNESCO World Heritage Convention.
For more National Parks: Kaziranga N.P. ||| Sundarbans N.P. ||| Great Himalayan N.P.
Interesting facts about the lake:
- The Imphal river or, the Manipur river flows through the lake (much like the Rhone river passes through Lake Geneva).
- There are about 14 small hills spread all over the lake in different directions.
- With more than 230 varieties of plants, 100 species of birds and more than 425 species of animals, the lake has a rich biodiversity.
- Considering its importance from ecological point of view, the lake has been declared as a Ramsar Site, a wetland of international importance.
- Near the lake, Moirang town houses a Memorial site of the Indian National Army (INA) that was established by Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose.
- There are about 100,000 inhabitants living in the villages in and around this iconic lake, and depend on it for their livelihoods.
- The lake is the lifeline of not only these inhabitants, but of a large portion of Manipur, because it provides hydro-power, irrigation and drinking water.
Loving memories of Loktak lake in Manipur
After spending a day in Imphal, I planned to visit the Loktak lake, my main destination of the trip. Leaving the hotel about 8 AM, I walked up to the local bus stand to take a bus to Moirang.
As I couldn’t find much information on availability of hotels/ guesthouses at Loktak lake, I had kept it a little open about spending the night there or not. I thought if I got a nice guesthouse to stay the night over at the lake, I would stay. Otherwise, I would come back to my hotel room in Imphal.
Visiting Keibul Lamjao National Park:
I reached Moirang, a little town (a sort of village) near Loktak lake by 9.30 AM. It’s a common divergent point in Manipur for visiting Keibul Lamjao N.P. and the Loktak lake. To start with, I decided to visit the Keibul Lamjao N.P., just about 3-4 kilometers from there. There are small shared vehicles running to the villages around the N.P. I took one of them, and reached the gate of the N.P. in 15-20 minutes, around 10 AM.
The guard who handed me the entry ticket told me that it’s a walk of approximately 2 kms to the view point. So, I started walking without wasting any time. Surprisingly, there was no vehicle on offer to explore the N.P. However, they do allow private vehicles inside.
It took me about 20 minutes to reach the Sangai view point on a small hill. There are a few observation points to watch the iconic deer from far, and of course the beautiful wetland landscape as well. However, I was not so lucky to witness any wild life, maybe because it was quite late in the morning. Hence, here’s a travel tip: reach the N.P. early in the morning or in the evening.
After spending some time at the view point, I walked back to the exit point enjoying the loneliness of the forest on one side and the wetland (part of Loktak lake) on the other. The entire visit took me only an hour! Through the whole time I spent in the forest trail, I was absolutely alone, except that I met one Forest Guard!
At the gate, I had to wait for a while to get another shared vehicle to come back to Moirang.
Getting to Thanga Island, entry point to the Loktak Lake:
I took another shared vehicle to reach Thanga village, 9 kms away from Moirang; it was around 12 PM. Excluding the core zone of some 70 sq. kms, the buffer zone of the lake welcomes tourists to visit and enjoy its landscape. Thanga is one of the three islands (Ithing and Sendra are the other ones) in the buffer zone.
Karang, a quaint little island-village is just across the lake from Thanga boat jetty. The village looks appealing from a distance. So, I thought of taking a boat ride in Loktak lake, and then cross over to the Karang island, and maybe stay over there for the night.
Rowing in the Loktak Lake:
At Thanga boat jetty, I was expecting some tourist crowd, but found none there ! Tourism is not at all developed in Loktak lake area; only a few local passengers taking small boats to cross over to their village in the Karang island. But I wanted to take a boat ride around the lake.
So, I asked the small boat owners hanging out at the jetty. It didn’t seem very common that tourists take such rides there, because they didn’t have any standard rate chart. After some consultation among the boat owners, one of them (Jogeshwar) agreed to give me a 30-minute ride for Rs. 300.
Jogeshwar’s boat was really tiny; I had to get on to the boat really carefully doing a tight balancing act, and had very little scope for moving around in the boat. Thus, I sat still taking pictures/ videos, while Jogeshwar did the rowing.
I have not seen a more serene lake anywhere in India. Yes, the tiny floating Phumdis were quite fascinating, but I loved the serenity of Loktak lake more than anything else. Fishermen rowing around the lake in small boats nonchalantly was a sight to behold.
Karang Village:
Part of my deal with Jogeshwar was that he would take me to the Karang island for a 10 minute-stopover. So, I deboarded at the Karang jetty and ventured into the village to explore the village, and find out if there was any chance of staying over the night there.
I roamed around the lovely village observing its undulating landscape, houses, and people engaged in their daily chores. From a small hill in the village, Loktak lake looked amazing, with Phumdis visible in their proper shapes. Small modest houses (made of bamboo, mud and tin) overlooking the lake had their own boats parked in front of them.
As it’s a very small island, there is hardly any land for farming, but everyone has fruit trees. Taking a stroll around the lovely village and chitchatting with the inhabitants made my day.
While walking around, I came across a place where certain arrangements were underway, seemed like a sports event. Being curious, I went near to ask someone about the event, and also about any eatery/ guesthouse there. To my pleasant surprise, I found the same person- Git there, who had helped me find that boat just half an hour ago.
Making new friends in the village:
It turned out that Git had lived in Delhi for some time during his study days, and thus, knew good Hindi. We struck a nice conversation about each other. He became an instant friend and invited me to his home in the village. How could I have declined that great offer! It’s moments like this that makes travel such a beautiful thing! (Read more: Travel is the essence of life). I came near the Karang jetty and freed Jogeshwar from his duties, and went back to Git.
From that event location, we had to trek over a small hill to reach the other side of the island to reach his house. The location of his house couldn’t be any better. Facing the Loktak lake, the small old house stood in its primal charm.
I met his cousins, uncles and other members of the extended family. Everyone was so sweet and welcoming! To be honest, this was so much more than I ever wished for from this trip. This picture (below) with Git’s family is a prized possession.
Traditional Food:
While chatting with Git, I learnt that he has a house in Imphal where he lives with his family. But his parents still live back in this village. As his mother was visiting his Imphal home, his father actually cooked lunch for all of us! So sweet of him!
The food was a hundred percent traditional food of Manipur, especially from the Loktak lake area. The thali (dish) consisted of rice, boiled black chickpeas, potato-peas curry, deep fried potatoes, fish fry, and above all the typical Manipuri vegetable preparation called Singju.
Singju is basically a salad, made up of leafy vegetables that grow in the Loktak lake, especially along the Phumdis. It’s a mix of lotus stem, a leafy vegetable, cabbage, chickpeas and ngari (fermented fish), and is very popular among the locals.
However, most importantly, all the ingredients are grown locally, organic by default. When we in cities eat everything grown with chemicals, they eat everything organic. Blessing in disguise, I thought. No wonder then that they look so fit and healthy!
I was thankful for the soulful food.
Enjoying the festival of Holi:
Every year, during Holi festival, Git comes to the village to sponsor a sports event involving children to celebrate Holi. Interestingly, this is a very unique and special thing that I noticed all around Manipur, and not only in this village. During Holi, villagers arrange events through the day; men, women and children of all age groups participate in games and sports. They dance, eat and make merry together. Such a wonderful way to celebrate Holi!
After lunch at Git’s home, we proceeded to join the event at the village. I just loved the children competing in interesting traditional games, while their families cheered on. Being the lone outsider, I was the center of attraction at the event. Though most of them didn’t know Hindi, I felt their love through their gestures. As they say, the heart doesn’t need a language to connect.
Getting back to Imphal:
While walking around, I saw a small guesthouse in the village near the Loktak lake. But I didn’t like it at all, mainly because of the poor hygiene. Thus, I was thinking of getting back to Imphal when Git offered me a seat in his car on the way back to Imphal. After the event got over, we headed to the Karang jetty.
While Git engaged in exchanging pleasantries, I watched people enjoying themselves, and also interacted with some of them. See the picture below of girls photographing each other and having fun by the lake.
Let me share about this elderly person who seemed to be a lot interested in me. While I was watching him rowing in the lake, he noticed me. As soon as he came on shore, he headed right up to me. He didn’t know Hindi, but we exchanged smiles, shook hands and hugged.
In a sweet gesture, he asked for a picture with me. Though I loved the click with him, it was quite surprising to me. Because he didn’t have a phone, and therefore, couldn’t even have the picture for himself! I wonder, then what was his interest in the picture?!
Soon afterwards, I, Git and his cousin boarded a small motor boat from the Karang jetty to Thanga jetty. The boat ride was absolutely charming with the sun setting over the lake.
Back in Imphal, I visited Git’s house there as well, and met his mother there. And then, his brother dropped me back at the hotel around 7 PM.
Loktak Lake in Manipur: Travel Tips
Best time to visit:
From the beginning of Autumn in October to the end of Spring in March, Loktak lake in Manipur is a great place to visit. As it rains a lot in the monsoon season- July to September, it’s not advisable to visit during the monsoon. Similarly, summers can be difficult with temperatures soaring high.
Inner Line Permit:
Yes, one needs to carry an “Inner Line Permit” to visit Loktak lake in Manipur. As one can apply online, it doesn’t take much an effort. For your convenience, here is the link to Manipur Government Site: ILP.
How to reach:
Only 45 kms from Loktak lake, Imphal is the best place to keep one’s base. Small local buses keep running all day from Imphal to Moirang. From there, one can take shared vehicles to Thanga. And if you have more money and less time, of course, you can take a taxi.
How to move around:
- In order to coast from village to village, autorickshaws are available
- At the lake, of course, small boats are available.
Where to stay:
One can stay in Imphal, and take a day-trip to Loktak lake. Or, even better is staying in a guesthouse/ homestay in a village near the Loktak lake, like in Moirang, Thanga, Ithing, Sendra, or Phubala areas. Here are a few good suggestions.
- Near Loktak Lake: Sendra Park & Resort || Loktak Aquamarine Floating Homestay
- In Imphal: Manipur House || Phou-Oi-Bee hotel || Sangai Continental || Pi Hotel
Where to eat:
- Near Loktak Lake: Only at the guesthouses.
- In Imphal: XL restaurant || The House By Route 39 || US Pizza & Fried Chicken || Deccan Resto || Old Delhi Grillzz || Shosa Kitchen || Hotel Imoinu || Timber Cafe.
Concluding Thoughts
The day spent at Loktak lake in Manipur is etched in memory forever. The serene lake, charming landscape, cultural experience and its friendly people, all of them made my day. If you are planning a trip to Loktak lake, I would suggest to stay in a homestay (built on a Phumdi) at the lake itself (which I couldn’t). It will be an amazing experience to wake up to a beautiful sunrise by the lake.
If north east India was more easily accessible, it would have been among India’s top tourist destinations. Charm of the lower Himalayas, deep green forests, beautiful rivers and lakes, and communities with their original culture intact. Or, maybe, its inaccessibility has been a blessing in disguise! Being untouched by mass tourism, it’s relatively unpolluted, and peaceful.
However, new Highways are being constructed, and last mile roads are being built rapidly. This is bound to give impetus to mass tourism. On the flip side, it will bring its negative impacts too! Thus, authorities, while promoting tourism, must be mindful of its downside, and take preventive measures.
This is a typical ‘development’ versus ‘environment’ tradeoff. But with appropriate policy measures and awareness, the tradeoff can be managed well. Read to know more: Government’s role in sustainable tourism.
Jayvanti Samuel Einjen
Nice pictures and information good good.
stampedmoments
Thank you! Always so supportive 🙂
Sara Hevia
Beautiful trip
Thanks for share a quite region, that is not in a tourism check list
So nice people, landscapes and food
If i come back to India (because i loved your country) i will have all your fantastic info to select new places to visit
stampedmoments
Hi Sara!
Yes, North East of India is quiet and serene; very peaceful.
On your next trip, you can explore the north east.
And yes, on your next trip, you meet us too 🙂
Thanks a lot.
prasanna kumar Pattnaik
Good information, you made us a virtual tour👍👍👍
stampedmoments
Thanks for taking the virtual tour!
Appreciate your feedback; please keep connected.