Talk of verdant Himalayan vistas, Tibetan Buddhism and plentiful adventurous getaways in one breath, you are surely talking of McLeod Ganj. A bustling little town up above the mountains in Himachal Pradesh, McLeod Ganj is a perfect blend of noise and peace. The main market is as busy as it gets in India. But a few kilometers in any direction can take one to complete isolation. My many visits to McLeod Ganj have made me fall in love with the place. In this article, I’m sharing my best experiences in McLeod Ganj- Dharamshala in the lap of the Himalayas.
It was October 2017, when I first visited McLeod Ganj in Dharamshala with Parina and her Mom. Afterwards, fortunately, I got a few opportunities to visit McLeod Ganj for work. Next time, I and Parina went back with some friends to undertake the Triund Trek (check out our experience). Over all these trips, I have loved exploring the whole area quite well.
One can have the best of both the worlds- great urban life with busy markets, and peaceful hideouts in the forests. Mingle with the Buddhist monks or visit ancient Hindu temples. Take a leisurely walk in the forest, or go on a day-trek to a mountain top. Hang out in a cozy cafe, or take a tour of a tea garden. Believe me, it’s quite a long list! The choice is yours.
{For more similar destinations in the Himalayas, check out: Darjeeling Hill Station (WB) ||| Tawang (Arunachal) ||| Tirthan Valley (Himachal)}
McLeod Ganj, Dharamshala: Best Experiences
McLeod Ganj, where nature meets culture
Why do I love McLeod Ganj in Dharamshala? It’s for many things, but most notably, its panoramic Himalayan views and the rich culture. At an elevation of 6831 ft (2082 mts), it has just the perfect weather for a hill station. With snowy winters and pleasant summers, it attracts vacationers through out the year. A number of not-so-difficult treks starting from the town draws adventure seekers as well. Of course, the view of the grand Dhauladhar range is absolutely spectacular too. While the mountains are green up close, one can see the snow capped mountains in the far horizon.
However, apart from the mountains, I love McLeod Ganj’s diverse culture enriched with Tibetan Buddhism. On my first visit, I was quite surprised to see so many Tibetan Buddhists there. In fact, McLeod Ganj is called “Little Lhasa” for its thousands of Tibetan settlers. Hence, one feels the essence of Tibetan culture in their monasteries, peaceful vibes, clothes, food and much more.
Though Tibetan Buddhism dominates the cultural landscape of McLeod Ganj- Dharamshala, especially among the travellers, its Hindu cultural heritage is no less significant. An important Mahadev temple and three Shakti Peeths in its vicinity do attract a lot of local pilgrims. Besides, the ancient rock-cut temple at Masroor is a must visit. In the next section, do note down your points of interest under three headings: natural sites, Tibetan Buddhism, and other cultural sites.
I. Natural panorama and adventure
From all over the town, one can view the mighty Dhauladhar mountain Range of the Himalayas. Just a little hike in any direction takes one into the woods. A walk among the pine, cedar, oak and deodar trees is as peaceful as it gets. And if you are there in the spring season, gorgeous Rhododendron flowers would welcome you. Besides, beautiful villages with colourful houses adorning the hill slopes are a treat to the eyes. If you are a little adventurous, McLeod Ganj offers you a range of trekking options, from day-treks to week-long treks.
Bhagsunag Waterfall:
Just about a kilometer’s hike from Bhagsunag takes one to a small but beautiful waterfall- Bhagsunag Waterfall. I’m not sure whether the place lends its name to the waterfall or the other way round. One fine morning, we hiked that path with friends- Varun, Mamta and Shaurya. The hike was quite fun because it was not that steep. It starts from a small temple by the same name- Bhagsunag Temple. A gradual slope beside the valley created by the waterfall was quite enjoyable. Hiking leisurely, we stopped over at the temple, a tea stall, and a rock-bed along the way.
Dharamkot, mini-Israel:
In an isolated corner of McLeod Ganj in Dharamshala, a little village- Dharamkot is popular among Israelis. In fact, it has so many Israelis that locals call it mini-Israel! The main village has nice old houses, homestays, cafes, and yoga/ spiritual centers. Off the main village, a stroll up or down takes one to tranquil forests. If you like to spend a few peaceful hours in the woods, this is the village for you.
Dal Lake, hangout point:
Not far from the main town of McLeod Ganj, there’s this small Dal Lake by the roadside. Though it’s nowhere near its namesake- Dal Lake of Srinagar in Kashmir, it’s a good hangout place. During the monsoon season, the lake fills up to the brim, but rest of the year, it remains dry; so, not such a good place to visit.
Naddi nature walk/ sunset point:
Much like Dharamkot, Naddi is a lovely village for nature walk, Dhauladhar view point, and sunset experience. Just 1 km from the Dal lake, it makes for a good walk from McLeod Ganj. If you don’t like walking on hill slopes, a drive around Dharamkot, Dal lake and Naddi is worth spending half a day. Even after so many years, I fondly remember our walk across the village into wilderness.
Tea Gardens:
Apart from Assam, Darjeeling (WB), Ooty (Tamil Nadu) and Munnar (Kerala), McLeod Ganj/ Dharamshala has the most beautiful tea gardens in India. Tea bushes spread across perfectly curated landscapes look so photogenic! Though there are a few tea gardens there, Himalayan Brew is the most popular one. In any case, while driving around that area, you will come across a number of tea gardens.
Paragliding in Bir- Billing:
Bir- Billing is quite famous for its paragliding site, perhaps the numero-uno paragliding site in India. Every adventure seeker who visits McLeod Ganj/ Dharamshala, does heads there for some adrenalin rush. It’s about 80 kms from the town, and takes the whole day. Whether one is interested in paragliding or not, Bir is a nice place to explore. It’s especially good for a peaceful walk around the meadows.
Trekking Options:
As I said earlier, McLeod Ganj/ Dharamshala offers all kinds of trekking options, from easy ones to very difficult ones. One may take a leisurely half-day hike within the town or a multi-day treks to explore mountain peaks. We have done hiking in Dharamkot, Bhagsu and Naddi, and an overnight Triund trek. Whether it’s a half-day hiking or an overnight camping, I have thoroughly enjoyed the experience each time. So, it’s basically about your personal fitness level and preferences.
For your convenience, here is a list of trekking/ hiking options for you.
- Dharamkot hike: 1-2 kms | 1-2 hours (half day exploring, preferably morning hours)
- Dal lake- Naddi view point hike: 2-3 kms | 2-3 hours (half day exploring, preferably, evening hours)
- Bhagsu Nag Waterfall hike: 1-2 kms | 2-3 hours (half day exploring, preferably morning hours)
- Triund trek (optional: trek up to Snowline) | 5-6 kms | 5-6 hours each way; preferably overnight camping | Triund Trek Guide
- Laka Glacier trek: 10-11 kms | 2-3 days with camping
- Kareri Lake trek: 15- 18 kms | 3-4 days with camping
- Indrahar Pass trek: 35-40 kms | 5-7 days with camping.
II. Exploring Tibetan Buddhism in McLeod Ganj
History of its culture:
Though Dharamshala/ McLeod Ganj finds mention in ancient Hindu scriptures, its reputation as a hill station came during the times of the British in India. In fact, McLeod Ganj borrows its name from a British officer. However, McLeod Ganj in Dharamshala received global recognition when the Indian government allowed the 14th Dalai Lama Tenzin Gyatso to establish Tibetan-Government-in-exile here in 1960. This followed thousands of Tibetans seeking refuge in this little town. Needless to say that they brought with them their vibrant culture.
So, in course of time, McLeod Ganj became popular as a center for Tibetan Buddhism. Most visitors to the hill station love the opportunity of experiencing Tibetan culture in India. I being an admirer of Buddhism, always loved visiting the numerous monasteries in and around McLeod Ganj/ Dharamshala. It’s an absolute pleasure observing the monks engaged in their daily routine, and prayers at the monasteries. Even the peaceful ways of the ordinary Tibetans on the streets, running small shops/ eateries are worth emulating.
{If you want to know more about Tibetan Buddhism in India, check out: Best Monasteries in Leh- Ladakh}
Tsuglagkhang Complex/ Namgyal Monastery/ Dalai Lama Temple:
The Dalai Lama administers Tibet as the Head of Central Tibetan Administration from McLeod Ganj in Dharamshala since 1960. The administrative complex is known as the Tsuglagkhang Complex which also houses the Namgyal Monastery and the residence of His Holiness the Dalai Lama. Though Namgyal Monastery is a personal temple for the Dalai Lama, it also serves as a tantric college. More importantly, the Dalai Lama gives public appearances and lectures on mornings of Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.
However, it’s a nice place to visit in the evening as well. From the backside of the temple, one can watch a spectacular view of the snow-clad Dhauladhar range. On the other side, the view of McLeod Ganj town is equally amazing. I still cherish the experience of watching the snow-clad mountain peaks turn orange at sunset.
Gyuto Monastery:
Inaugurated in 1996 by the 14th Dalai Lama near Dharamshala, the Gyuto Tantric Monastery holds special significance for Tibetan Buddhism, especially the Gelugpa sect. It has a long history of relocation. Originally established in Lhasa in 1474, it was relocated to Dalhousie in 1959 after Chinese accession of Tibet. It was again relocated to Bomdila (Tawang, Arunachal) in 1975, and from there to Dharamshala in 1996.
The monastery is not only a place for tantric Buddhism, but also works towards preserving Tibetan culture and arts. Only 13 kms away from McLeod Ganj, and 8 kms from Dharamshala, this is a must-visit place. Apart from its spiritual/ historic significance, I loved its brilliant architecture. Its radiant colours of maroon and yellow contrasting the snow-clad mountains forming the backdrop, makes it a picture-perfect monastery.
Kalachakra Temple:
Right in the middle of the busy streets of McLeod Ganj lies this gorgeous temple- Kalachakra temple. Literally meaning the “wheel of time”, it signifies the Buddhist philosophy of cyclic nature of karma and rebirth. The prayer wheels of the temple are right on the road. But one should visit the Thekchen Choeling temple complex beside the wheels.
Norbulingka Institute:
One of my most favorite places to visit in McLeod Ganj/ Dharamshala is the Norbulingka Institute of Tibetan Culture. I just love everything about the place- its purpose, location, serenity, the monastery within, and the cafe. About 10 kms from McLeod Ganj, 5 kms from Dharamshala, and not far from Gyuto monastery, its location in the foothills of Dhauladhar is gorgeous.
The vision of the institute is to preserve the art and culture of Tibetan Buddhism. The fact that they have a great sustainable business model to do so, appealed to me the most. They run several workshops to train the artists in various kinds of arts/ crafts like wooden craft, Thangka painting, etc. However, their revenues come from the two guesthouses, two restaurants and a souvenir shop they run in the campus. Having bought several products from their shops and eaten several meals there, I vouch for their quality. They produce absolute museum quality paintings, great accessories and home decors.
Moreover, the ambiance of the campus is so soothing! Beautifully curated landscapes, lovely buildings, and the mountain backdrop, the museum, everything is a manifestation of beauty in simplicity. I also loved the cakes and other food items they have in their menu in the restaurants. So, it’s worth spending half a day in the campus.
Tashi Jong Khampagar Monastery:
Buddhists belonging to the Drukpa Kagyu lineage moved from Tibet to Kalimpong in West Bengal in 1958 during the Chinese invasion. Later on in 1968, they identified Tashi Jong near McLeod Ganj/ Dharamshala as their happy place and settled here. Their monastery is called the Tashi Jong Khampagar Monastery.
We visited this place during our first trip to McLeod Ganj/ Dharamshala, and have lovely memories. There was a prayer session in progress when we reached the monastery. The monks were very sweet to us. Observing them performing their rituals was quite a spiritual experience. Besides, the panoramic view of the Dhauladhar range surrounding the monastery was equally impressive.
III. Heritage/ Cultural Sites in McLeod Ganj, Dharamshala
Yes, the Himalayas and Tibetan Buddhism are what define the character of McLeod Ganj in Dharamshala. However, McLeod Ganj has much more to offer a discerning traveller. It has a long history and rich heritage that is amplified by the various monuments around. From ancient Hindu temples to colonial era Churches, and an old fort in the vicinity, there is much to explore.
St. John’s in the Wilderness Church:
A catholic church from the British era (1852), now standing among a thick deodar canopy looks fascinating. Though it’s a small structure, its neo-gothic architecture makes it beautiful. However, the church is especially famous for being the final resting place of Lord Elgin, former Viceroy of British India. Just on the way from Dharamshala to McLeod Ganj, it’s easy to visit as well. We spent about half an hour soaking in the serenity it presents to the visitors.
Kangra Fort:
Not far (~30 kms) from McLeod Ganj, one can explore the remains of the oldest and the largest fort in the Indian Himalayas in Kangra. Though there’s no specific proof, the fort is believed to be built in the 4th century BC by the Katoch dynasty. After changing many hands, it fell in the hands of the British in 1846. However, a few decades later (in 1905), a strong earthquake largely destroyed the fort. Quite incredibly, the walls of the fort still stand in pride depicting its lost glory. If you are in McLeod Ganj, and love ancient heritage sites, this is a must visit.
During our first visit, we did climb its stairs to reach the pinnacle. I must admit that I wasn’t completely aware of its long history then. But its broken pillars and dilapidated walls did tell a story. Plus, the view from top of the fort was quite amazing too.
Masroor (Ellora of Himachal) Rock-cut Temple:
Most travellers in India would have heard of the monolith temples of Kailasa (Ellora) and Shore temple (Mahabalipuram). But hardly anyone knows about this monolith- Masroor/ Masrur temple near McLeod Ganj/ Dharamshala! Built around the same time (8th century AD), and not far less in grandeur, Masroor rock-cut temple remains in oblivion! Such a shame! Someone should have done enough to bring this to the national/ global heritage limelight.
Built mostly in Nagara architectural style, it also exhibits some Dravidian features too. Though it suffered some damage due to the 1905- earthquake, it still holds good. Dedicated to the Lords- Shiva, Vishnu and Devi, there are 15 temples in the complex around a rectangular pond. When we visited the temple in April 2022, Varun loved having fun feeding the hundreds of colourful fish in the pond. After appreciating the details of the temple architecture, we climbed up to its roof and enjoyed the view of the Dhauladhar range from there.
Baijnath Shiv Temple:
A 60 km drive from McLeod Ganj towards Bir-Billing takes one to a thirteenth century temple of Lord Shiva. Built in 1204 by two merchants- Ahuka and Manyuka, the original temple is no longer there. The temple that exists today was the one renovated by King Sansar Chand in 1786. Though the 1905-earthquake did partial damage to some of the other temples in the campus, the main temple survived.
In October 2017, we visited this temple on a day trip from McLeod Ganj- Dharamshala. After witnessing its architectural beauty, we climbed down a few hundred steps to reach the Binwa river. It was quite nice to spend some time by the river at Khir Ganga Ghat.
Shri Chamunda Devi Shakti Peeth:
One of the 51 Shakti Peethas of India, Shri Chamunda Devi temple is just 25 kms from McLeod Ganj/ Dharamshala. It’s closer to the town of Palampur (about 15 kms), on the way to Baijnath temple. The name “Chamunda” comes from “Chanda” and “Munda”, two demons whom the Goddess had killed. Goddess Chamunda is a form of Goddess Kali, the fierce Goddess in Hinduism. The small temple, built around 700 years ago, is set in a tranquil environment with a big pond in its campus.
Jwala Devi Shakti Peeth:
Quite interestingly, there’s another Shakti Peeth nearby- Jwala Devi/ Jwalamukhi temple. But they are not on the same route; it’s about 60 kms from McLeod Ganj towards Hamirpur. More interestingly though, there’s no idol of the Goddess in the temple! Instead, there’s a flame that is burning since time immemorial! There might be a natural phenomenon behind this, but it’s not established yet. On the other hand, the devotees believe that it’s manifestation of the eternal power of the Goddess. Unfortunately, I have never visited this temple; maybe, next time!
Bajreshwari Mata Shakti Peeth:
Would you believe, in the same area, there’s a third Shakti Peeth- Bajreshwari Mata Temple! Situated in the main town of Kangra, the temple is easy to visit if you are visiting Kangra Fort. Indeed, we did the same during our first visit to McLeod Ganj- Dharamshala. Though the architecture of the temple is simple, it’s the history that is important. Said to be originally built by the Pandavas, it was damaged in the 1905 earth quake and subsequently rebuilt.
IV. Other Experiences in McLeod Ganj, Dharamshala
Believe me, I am not done yet! A small place, but so much to explore! Apart from the nature, culture and heritage, there are some other interesting things to do, and places to visit in and around McLeod Ganj/ Dharamshala.
McLeod Ganj Main Market:
When you are done with your nature walk or a little adventure when the sun is up, you would like to have some good food (suggestions in the next section). There a quite a few nice cafes to choose from in the main market of McLeod Ganj. Though they serve all kinds of food, it’s good to go for the food that McLeod Ganj/ Dharamshala is known for- Tibetan cuisine. I love a number of bakery shops in the market serving delectable cakes.
With colourful shops displaying Tibetan artefacts on both sides of the street, a walk is always a pleasant experience. Among the most sought after products are Thangka paintings, woolens, Tibetan handicrafts, singing bowls, trinkets, jewelry, little statues, Buddhist prayer flags, Kangra tea, etc.
Dharamshala Cricket Stadium:
Though a cricket stadium is not a regular place a traveller would look to visit, this one is different. With the snow-clad mountains as a backdrop, the colourful pavilions look stunning. No doubts, it’s India’s most beautiful stadium, and one of world’s most beautiful as well.
Of my two visits to the stadium, once I had the opportunity of being shown around by an official. A cricket fan that I am, I loved that experience. Maybe, sometime I hope to watch a live match here. Even if you are not a cricket fan, it’s worth spending half an hour for the views.
State War Memorial:
Not far from the stadium lies the State War Memorial, Dharamshala. Built in 1977, it honours the war heroes who hailed from Himachal Pradesh. Around the central memorial, they have curated a lovely park. A walk in its tranquil atmosphere feels rejuvenating.
Travel Tips
A suggested itinerary:
As a tourist, one needs at least 3-4 days to explore all the places of interest in and around McLeod Ganj/ Dharamshala. More the merrier. In fact, this is one place best suited for a long stay, exploring the places really slowly, soaking in the cultural experiences. However, let me suggest an itinerary for a 4-day long weekend trip without adventure plans.
- Day-1: Reach and relax till lunchtime. Take a stroll around Dharamkot, then head up to Naddi (via Dal Lake) for sunset. In the evening, explore McLeod Ganj local market.
- Day-2: Explore places in McLeod Ganj, and Dharamshala. In the morning, hike up to Bhagsunag Waterfall. In the afternoon: tea gardens, cricket stadium, war memorial, St. John’s church. It’s a good idea to end the day at the Dalai Lama temple.
- Day-3: Take the Baijnath route: Norbulingka Institute- Gyuto monastery- Chamunda Devi temple- Tashi Jong monastery- Baijnath temple and come back. Though it’s the same route to Bir-Billing (paragliding site), it will take a separate day, if paragliding is in your agenda.
- Day-4: Take a day trip to Kangra fort, Bajreshwari Mata temple and Masroor rock-cut temple.
- If you have trekking in your plans, of course, the plan changes accordingly.
- Similarly, it will take one more day to cover Jwala Devi temple because it’s on a separate route.
When to visit:
- One can visit McLeod Ganj/ Dharamshala literally any time of the year. However, it will depend on one’s weather preferences.
- Spring- Summer months of March to June are the most pleasant-weather times. So, it’s the best time to visit for most travellers, including the adventure seekers.
- However, people who love snow, prefer visiting in the winter months- December to February
- In between, the monsoon months of July- August are tricky. Though hill stations looks beautiful during the rainy season, there’s always the risk of landslides. Now-a-days, landslides are common in these months in Himachal Pradesh.
- Autumn months of September to November are good as well. Our October trip was quite nice!
How to reach:
- Flights: Gaggal airport, 15 kms away | Flights from Delhi and Chandigarh
- Railways: Joginder Nagar is the nearest station, 70 kms away
- By road: Regular comfort buses from Delhi (~500 kms) and Chandigarh (250 kms) | Or, one can drive.
Where to stay:
- Budget hotel suggestions: Moon Walk Residency ||| Lord Krishna Boutique Stay ||| Hotel Varuni ||| Albela House ||| Grand View Lodge ||| Treebo Trend Roshan House ||| Green Hotel ||| King Castle
- Hostel suggestions: The Hosteller (Bhagsunag, Mall Road) ||| Moustache ||| Zostel ||| Mitra Hostel ||| Young Monk Hostel & Cafe ||| Alt-Life Dharamkot ||| La Vaca India ||| goSTOPS.
How to get around:
- Walking in McLeod Ganj is enjoyable. So, take leisurely strolls in and around the town, and view points, if your body permits.
- Otherwise, taxi are the best way. However, generally taxis cost high in mountains.
- Though local buses/ shared taxis are available, they are time-consuming. But if you have time, and are budget conscious, why not!
What/ where to eat:
The Clay Oven ||| Tibet Kitchen ||| Hummingbird cafe ||| Tibetan Mandala cafe ||| Moonpeak cafe ||| Coffee Talks ||| Nick’s Italian Kitchen ||| Woeser Bakery ||| Jimmy’s Italian ||| Illiterati Books & Coffee ||| Crepe Pancake ||| Four Seasons Cafe.
Conclusion
Whether you want a peaceful few days out of your busy life, or want some adrenalin rush, McLeod Ganj in Dharamshala just perfectly fits the bill. I have been visiting the place since 2027, and still want to go back. The fact that I like Buddhist philosophy, just adds to the reason why I love McLeod Ganj. However, each time I have visited the hill station, I have done something new. Among my favorite experiences from McLeod Ganj and Dharamshala are Triund trek, times spent at the Norbulingka, and exploring the ruins of Masroor rock-cut temple. What remain are trying my hands at paragliding (may be!) and visiting the Jwala Devi Temple.
If you are contemplating a short visit anytime soon, I would suggest April month, and doing the Triund trek. Of course, pre or post the trek, enjoy the Buddhist vibes in McLeod Ganj, and relish the Himalayan views.
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